Q: Is there any way you can do a basic room-painting tutorial? Y’all seem to get such good results in just a few hours, but most internet tutorials would have me believe I need to put in a whole weekend for good results. I’ve noticed y’all don’t cover the floors and don’t prime–I’d love to know what other steps you skip and which ones you think are crucial, and why. Do you remove things like outlet covers and curtain brackets, or paint around them? When painting a ceiling, do you remove the light fixture? I need the youngsters to walk me through it! -Charlotte
A: We’ve definitely gotten the question “how do you paint a room?” a bunch of times so here’s our method. This isn’t necessarily what will work best for everyone, but it’s how we tackle those quite regular room painting projects so we thought we’d share our tips and tricks in case they come in handy for anyone else out there.
Tip #1: We like high quality rollers for smooth surfaces (for flat walls of course, if you have textured walls you should get the appropriate roller) and we only use brushes like the one mentioned here to cut in around windows, trim, ceilings, baseboard, and to paint corners that a roller can’t access (we don’t usually use painter’s tape when we tackle a room together since I love the control and the clean line of this paint brush while John is on roller duty). We also use short handled brushes like this to paint tight spots like behind a toilet.
Tip #2: We never remove trim or baseboards to paint them or paint around them, but we do remove outlet covers and light switch covers most of the time (when we’re not being lazy) for the most professional result when it’s all said and done. We don’t remove curtain brackets (for fear of having a looser fit when we rehang them in the same hole) but we do remove the curtain panels and carefully paint around the area where the bracket meets the wall with our beloved short handled brush (anyone who is nervous about maintaining a steady hand can always tape off the brackets with blue tape or even Frog Tape (which we occasionally whip out, read more about it here). The same is true with light fixtures (we remove the pendant or shade if we can and then very carefully paint around the canopy or base for a seamless look).
Tip #3: We don’t use primer unless the wall is super saturated or dark (ex: chocolate or ruby red) or if we’re dealing with something that could bleed through like wood paneling (which may have been oiled, stained, etc- in which case you need to seal it with an oil-based primer before painting). Here’s a tutorial all about painting wood paneling– and while we’re at it, here’s one for painting brick. But if we’re painting a not-too-bright-or-saturated wall, we always just apply two thin and even coats (sometimes three in very rare cases) of latex paint. As for what brands we like, Behr and Benjamin Moore have been our favorites, but we often have colors by Valspar or Glidden color matched to those bases since we like a number of different paint chips from nearly every brand out there. We also loved using Mythic’s No-VOC paint for the nursery, Olympic’s No-VOC paint in the bathroom, and Home Depot’s Freshaire paint (in semi-gloss off the shelf white) for all of the trim and doors in our house.
Tip #4: Now for our highly controversial floor coverage info. We have wood floors and have been painting so long that we don’t use drop cloths, but you definitely should consider using something like a plastic tarp from your home improvement store or large pieces of cardboard to protect your floors if you’re not quite as experienced in the we-paint-something-every-weekend realm that we live in (especially if your floors are carpeted). We’ve found that after years of painting and repainting (see what we mean here) we don’t drip very often at all. And when we do, since our floors are wood and they’re sealed, we can just wipe the drip up as long as we don’t wait too long until it dries (in that case a drip can still be “popped” off but it’s a bit more time intensive).
So in summary, our room painting process goes a little something like this:
Step 1: We bring home a bunch of swatches and tape them up to compare them and observe them in a variety of lighting situations over the course of a few days. After picking a winner we head to the home improvement store to get paint (usually a gallon of flat or satin stuff- read more about finishes here).
Step 2: Before hopping in the car we also take time to check if we have at least one roller (we like Purdy ones for flat surfaces), a clean 2″ angled brush (again we like Purdy brand stuff or the Sherwin Williams one we linked to above for trim painting), and a clean paint tray.
Step 3: We return home with our paint (and a roller or tray if we need one) and clear the room (removing furniture, rugs, art on the walls, curtains, etc).
Step 4: We lay out a large black garbage bag on the floor- the giant kind for bagging leaves, not the small kitchen gallon ones. This is the only floor protection that we implement (it’s where we lay the paint tray and our can of paint along with the lid and a few rags for wiping up floor drips). Alternatively, sometimes we use a large piece of cardboard that we have lying around (which is also where we place the paint tray, paint can, etc).
Step 5: We make sure the paint is stirred or shaken (it usually is if we get started right after retuning from the store where they’ve mixed the paint for us) and pour it into the paint tray that we’ve placed in a central location in the room on our black garbage bag or piece of cardboard.
Quick tip: Taking a nail and hammering a few holes around the lip of the lid of the paint can will keep excess paint from pooling in the lip and allow it to drip back down into the can (which results in easier clean-up and allows you to use every last drop of paint if you need to).
Step 6: John starts rolling and I cut in with my short handled 2″ angled brush. I carefully paint around trim, baseboards, ceiling moldings, and corners while John applies thin and even coats of paint with his roller (creating large W shapes on the wall as he goes to keep things looking seamless and smooth).
Step 7: We both finish our respective jobs at around the same time. By then the areas that we started on are usually dry and we can begin on coat number two (our plaster walls almost always call for two coats, no matter what brand of paint we use). If we worry that things are still a bit tackly (if it’s an especially humid day for example) we wait about 30-45 minutes and then go in for the second coat.
Quick tip: The key to banging out a quick paint job is to apply the second coat while you still have some steam so it’s all said and done within a few hours (and you don’t need to wash or replace your roller or your brush since there’s not a lot of lag time between coats).
Step 8: After coat number two (if we’re convinced we have full coverage, which we almost always do) we immediately wash our brushes and rollers and clean up the room. This helps keep our equipment in good shape (no ruined brushes or paint-filled trays to greet you the next morning). Plus it really allows you to relax instead of dreading the clean-up. Just get ‘er done. You’re in the home stretch!
Step 9: As for clean up, when we’re working with latex paint we just need water to clean our brushes and rollers (some people like to wash and reuse them while others toss them every time). We buy the recycled biodegradable paint trays for under a buck, so we just pour the remaining paint back into the paint can and toss those in the trash.
Quick tip: If you’ve taped off anything in your room with blue painters tape or Frog Tape, we recommend removing the tape as soon as you’re done with your paint job. Seriously, rip that stuff off the second you put down your brush (before the paint dries onto the tape which results in a less clean line than you’ll get if you peel it when it’s still wet).
Step 10: Then we just load in the room with the furniture and accessories that we’ve cleared out. It usually takes us around 2-3 hours from start to finish (starting from the point at which we return with the paint and supplies that we need).
And fret not if you don’t have a painting partner in crime, we’ve both done rooms all by ourselves in 4 hours or so. You can do it! So that’s the method that works for us. Anyone else out there care to share tips for people who might be virgin painters? Spill the wall painting beans.
Psst- Have other painting questions? Check out the painting section of our Projects page, which has a ton of extra info and ideas for ya.
Allison says
I’m wondering if you guys are picky about what happens first–cutting in or rolling. I always heard you should cut in first, and then roll that area, but in your experience, does it really matter?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Allison,
You definitely end up with a more seamless look if you edge first, then roll. When we do it together John rolls my areas after I cut in. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Jess! says
I don’t usually use a dropcloth, and I’ve found that the few and far between paint drops that might hit the floors (i’ve got wood floors too) can be GENTLY removed with some nailpolish remover if they’ve dried but aren’t too old (a few days at most).
Sarah says
Thanks for the tip on making tiny holes in the lip of the can. Genius! So simple a solution for something that annoys me every time I paint.
Grace says
What a timely post! My husband and I just painted our bedroom this past weekend (including the ceiling) and it took us SO long I knew there had to be a better way.
Do you sand/caulk before painting? Or do you ever sand in between coats? Our house is old so I always feel like there are cracks and imperfections that need to be taken care of.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Grace,
We don’t sand between coats but we do occasionally caulk/sand before we start (just if we need to patch a nail hole, etc). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Elizabeth says
You clearly don’t have sprayed textured ceilings! No way to paint them without covering everything!
Sally says
Nice tutorial!
Through trial and error I’ve learned that it’s actually faster for me to tape and paint than to try to do the trim freehand and clean up after myself – my hand just isn’t steady enough.
I second limited floor coverings – I’ve found that it’s easier for me to keep things clean by just using a small drop cloth that I shift around. That eliminates the issue of stepping in paint you dripped on wall to wall drop clothes and inadvertently tracking it into another room.
Nicole says
My husband and I are expecting our first baby mid March of 2011 and we want to paint tone on tone horizontal stripes in the nursery (maybe BEHR chocolate froth and white truffle?), following the directions your left when you painted your bathroom. Thanks for the tips!
Holly says
We JUST did this over our Labor Day weekend! After finding your blog a couple of weeks ago (and instantly falling in love) I made sure to use these tips for our bedroom painting project…that was 13 years in the making.
Yes, after 13 years of “maybe…”, “well, let’s do this..”, “no…wait” I finally put a stop to the madness and indecision after reading all the wonderful info in your blog for inspiration and guidance.
Most important tips we rec’d from you on our first YHL inspired project: the groovy little brush from Sherwin Williams and the Frog Tape. Absolute life savers, thank you SO much!
And most important tip we can pass along: when in the midst of the thrill of finding the perfect color, in the perfect ZERO VOC paint, don’t forget to check the price of the paint BEFORE you see the total come up at the register. At $50 a gallon the shock is still with us. Thank goodness it did have excellent coverage and zero smell to make it just about worth the price.
Jacqui Bennetts says
A great tip I learned from our store merchendiser at Freedom Furinture in Melbourne Australia, where we painted the store walls every season, is to put a big tough smooth plastic bag over the paint tray and then you throw the bag out when you finish. Not a bag with folded corners though
T says
If you must stop a paint job before you are finished with it (and now that you are parents, it WILL happen!), you can wrap the brush or roller in a plastic bag and stick it in the refrigerator without cleaning it. The coldness will keep the paint from drying. When you are ready to paint again, let the brush sit out for a few minutes to warm up, and you are ready to go.
Wesley Little says
I just finished painting all the rooms in our new house, and I can say this post is 100% right on and super helpful!
One thing I use that I love is teflon coated paint pans. I think they’re only about $5 and I reuse them constantly. Just pour out most of the paint but leave a layer on the pan, and let dry out overnight. In the morning, you can peel all the paint off in a couple sheets. Fun and easy! *Only works for latex paint*
If you do use primer, just keep in mind that stuff is like super glue, and there’s a hand cleaner at the paint store/section to help you get it off your hands. :)
briar Oak Wife says
Your tips have been very helpful to me in the past. We have painted every single room in our 1920s house, including half of the trim. I definitely got the confidence to do all the painting myself after reading your blog!
Laurie Morfe says
Just an FYI….if you have textured walls, like we do, Frog tape will not stick to it. We found the blue painters tape was much easier to work with. We painted stripes on the walls and used the frog tape and the paint leaked under the tape.
YoungHouseLove says
Great tip- thanks for sharing!
xo,
s
Jennypenny says
This post has motivated me to tackle a project I have put off for a few months now. Great tips! I’ll be painting my master bedroom that is currently brick red. I want to paint it a light aqua. Probably similar to Clara’s ceiling.
I’m trying to decide between primer + paint or the all in one primer/paint like Behr’s PP Ultra or Valspar’s Hi-def. I’m worried about the all in one not hiding the red as well as a good primer might. How would you goes go about covering such a dark color? (I’m covering latex paint and I plan on using eggshell for the room.)
YoungHouseLove says
Those new all-in-one primers are PERFECT for the job. They should cover just as well. Good luck!
xo,
s
Ellen says
You must not have textured walls younglings! We have a newer home in California and the walls are textured, which makes it extremely hard to get nice clean edges with either frog tape or a steady hand. We actually just painted our guest bedroom with one of those edger devices (Shurline, I think) and it actually worked really well along the moldings and ok along the ceiling. You have to get the hang of getting the exact right amount of paint on it, but once we did that it worked pretty well. Oh, to have flat walls!!
Katherine says
Whoa, how do you finish your rooms so quickly? Our house isn’t much larger than yours and the two of us use similar methods, but it tends to take us 2-3 hours for one single coat AFTER taping. Hence, it has become a not-so-favorite chore that tends to be put off a lot. Do you guys just have a ton of energy or did you originally take more time to do your paint jobs and have gotten faster with practice?
YoungHouseLove says
It’s probably fair to say that we’ve gotten faster with practice, but that means you will too! After all the prep work we just turn on the radio and roll/paint away. Making sure there are good tunes on and your tummies are full can definitely help make painting less of a drag! Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Myrna says
When I am painting I have a big plastic cover for the whole floor for the dripping then I usually use blue painter tape which I love it sticks everywhere and thick too.
The paint I usually use is Behr, noo need for the primer, it would be better if you use a primer but till now I have never used one and it still covers. My only problem is the corners it is such a headache, it kills me.
Jen B. says
Wow, thank you so much for this! That 2″ brush is amazing! This was this first time I painted without tape and it was great – can’t thank you enough for all the great tips. :)
YoungHouseLove says
So glad it worked so well for you!
xo,
s
Serina says
Love your blog, I’m hooked….
Do you have any tips on painting the trim around the doors and baseboards? Do you paint them first, before painting the walls, or after? Do you tape the floor (or the quarter-round)? Any suggestions on getting a crisp line around door trim, especially the small 1/4 inch verical sides that meet with the wall? Thank you for your time!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Serina,
Check out our Projects page for a link to how we paint trim like a pro (which will help a ton). We basically use a special brush that we love and we don’t usually tape things off (because we have a steady hand from so much practice) but if you’re worried it never hurts! Good luck!
xo,
s
Stacey says
I’m curious to know if you ever backroll when you paint. I’ve seen pictures of some people’s paint jobs, and you can see all the wonky lines from the roller. I simply make sure to roll the roller gently down the wall over every section I’ve painted, and it makes sure there are no paint lines and when the light hits the wall, it is seamless. I’m wondering if anyone else does this…
YoungHouseLove says
We do the whole make a W shape with the roller, so that does mean keeping the roller in contact with the wall as it goes back and forth. So far with our paint jobs we haven’t had any wonky lines- maybe because we don’t use too much paint? Or perhaps it depends on the type of roller? Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Anne says
One reason I hesitate to paint is the clean up, especially using oil-based paint. Do you have any tips on how you manage/clean your brushes?
YoungHouseLove says
We use mineral spirits (a bit of soaking in it and then rinsing) although readers have mentioned that vegetable oil can help in a more natural way. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Linda says
Hi! I’ve read through many posts, but can’t find my answers(it’s probably there somewhere though!) Do you use the same short handled brush to prime trim/baseboards, etc.? Or do you have one for priming (oil based) and one for painting (latex)? Also, do you caulk along all of your baseboards (if they’re not flush with the wall) before painting? I’m afraid to caulk because what will that do to walls if you decide to switch trim?? Is it easy to remove/redo? Thanks! I’ve commented before, but still really enjoy your blog!
YoungHouseLove says
Definitely caulk things if there are gaps and they don’t look streamlined (caulk can be easily cut with an exacto knife and even peeled off with a flat head screwdriver down the line). As for the brush for priming, we have another short handled brush labeled “primer” so we don’t mess up and use it with paint (since it’s a bit more worse for wear). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Anne says
Y’all inspired me to get a good cut in brush and paint along my trim/edges without painters tape. The brush totally makes it easier! The line is definitely cleaner than with painters tape, which is such a hassle. It didn’t take very long to get the hang of it. I got it at Home Depot because I couldn’t handle a separate trip to Sherwin Williams with a 3-yr-old!!! It seemed to work pretty well. But if I find myself near a S-W I will try the one you guys like. Thanks so much for all your encouragement to your readers!
YoungHouseLove says
So glad it worked for ya!
xo,
s
Stef says
We just replaced our bedroom door. It’s unfinished wood and I need to paint it white, but I have no painting experience. Do I need to prime the door before I paint it? Thanks for all that you do!
YoungHouseLove says
You definitely should prime it with oil-based primer to keep the unfinished wood from bleeding and ruining your finish. Good luck!
xo,
s
Laura says
I finally painted a wall! The color is Wishes (Eloquent Ivory) by Glidden that you used in your house and I love the color! It has a warm glow. I got it color matched in Valspar Signature Colors (paint and primer in one) because it’s supposed to have great coverage in one coat. I had many dark paint sample colors painted on a white wall so I thought I would test the product and paint a whole wall to see if I really liked Wishes. That paint actually does what it advertises. One coat, and no sign of the dark paint squares underneath. However, because I didn’t realize I missed covering some small areas completely(I don’t recommend painting at night!), it looks like I have to do a second coat (or can I just touch up those areas with a roller?) If I should do a second coat, do I have do cut in all over again too (paint around trim, ceiling, outlets)? Btw, I bought the SW trim brush and I love it. First time I painted without tape!
YoungHouseLove says
That’s amazing! Congrats girl! We’d try rolling just those areas that need to be touched up before applying a full second coat and cutting in all over again. You might need to do that in the end (sometimes we do, sometimes we don’t) but rolling just those areas that are looking thin is a good place to start since it might be all that you need. Good luck!
xo,
s
Laura says
Thanks, will give the touch up a shot first. So I would have to cut in all over again if I do a second coat? Bummer.
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, for an even look you might want to. But it’s always 100 times faster than the first time (since you have to be so careful in the first pass and the second one doesn’t have to be as thorough for the coverage to look even). It’s hard to explain but you’ll see (if you even have to do another coat, that is).
xo,
s
Erika says
Do you suggest doing anything special to prepare walls painted with high gloss paint? Is it necessary to give them a light sanding before priming?
YoungHouseLove says
Either a light sanding or priming should do the trick. We’d actually recommend priming over sanding because sanding might cause the paint to flake or peel. Primer should make a nice base to hold the new paint in place. Just remember to apply thin and even coats and wait for them to dry fully between each one. Good luck!
xo,
s
Wendy says
Thanks for this! Good reminder to keep going till you’re done. I usually drag the process out and end up dreading coming back.
I do have to mention, though, that biodegradable products only break down if you actually put them in a compost pile, which you probably wouldn’t want to do if it’s covered in paint. Dumping them in the landfill prevents that process from happening. My suggestion is to keep at least 4 or 5 good plastic trays around. When you’re done painting, don’t wash it out, but set it aside to dry. After a few days (which is why you’ll want extras on hand), you can peel the solid paint right off and toss that in the trash. You won’t believe how clean and pretty your old tray will look. Or how satisfying the peeling process can be.
YoungHouseLove says
Great point and tip Wendy! Thanks for the idea!
xo,
s
Erica says
Tip for getting clean lines on textured walls:
Run a line of paintable caulk along the edge where your tape meets the wall – this fills the gaps. When you tear your tape down (which you can do right away or two months later), you’ll get a beautiful, clean line. I’m sure this would work on flat walls too…though I’m not sure it’d be worth it since you can get clean lines easily without this added step.
I discovered this technique after *years* of misery. Hope it saves someone out there some time & tears. :)
Yocheved says
Hi you guys! Firstly, Happy Birthday Clara! Second, I’ve been searching your site for the answer to my question but I can’t seem to find it. Do oil based painted walls need to be repainted with oil based as well, or can we use latex? Do they need a specific primer (light walls)? How can we get latex paint to adhere to the oil based paint wwithout peeling? Thanks in advance!
YoungHouseLove says
If your walls have been painted with oil-based paint you have to prime them with oil-based primer (like Kilz, but make sure it’s not the water-based kind). Then you can follow that with latex paint. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Yocheved says
Thank you so much! Thanks from my mom, btw. This is her house….her painter told her he can only paint oil based over oil based. He did two rooms already, but it looks super shiny and my mother does NOT like it. I told her I’d ask the real experts. Thank you!!!!!!
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, oil-based primer followed by latex paint will work like a charm!
xo,
s
Veronica says
We are in the process of purchasing a new home (fingers crossed) and I have followed your blog for years. I came to this post since our potential new home is in need of some TLC (the best kind). My question is the walls are EXTREMELY dirty in this house. I was wondering if it would be beneficial to give the wall a little bit of a washing before I paint. Have you encountered this problem? I only ask because I am worried since most of the dirt/smudges seem to be hand prints that it may be oily/greasy and not get covered as well/easily? Any help is appreciated! I hope ya’ll check comments on old posts!!!!!!
V.
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yeah, if you know the walls are dusty or dirty I’d wipe them down with a moist rag (and maybe even some mild soap). Just be sure they’re totally dry before you paint!
xo,
s
Veronica says
Thank you!!!!!
April says
Hi. We just bought a ranch house (!) and will be closing in a few weeks. It will be our first home, and we are thinking about repainting it ourselves. However, neither of us have even picked up a paintbrush before! I was wondering….should we paint the trim first, and then paint the walls? Or…does it make more sense the other way around? Much appreciated.
YoungHouseLove says
Most beginners like to paint trim first and then do the walls (since some paint can get on the walls from the trim and you can fix that when you do the walls) but we’ve done it either way, so just go slow and steady and use a great brush! Good luck!
xo,
s
Kim says
Hey guys! Quick question… I am going to be painting a room (my first using Olympic in satin) and am wondering if you’ve had much issue with framing or lapping when painting a room by yourself. The room is about 14×15 with lots of corners and windows to cut in around, so I’m thinking… cut in everywhere first, then go back and put on one coat with a roller, then do a second roller coat. What has your technique been for a one-person job for the best results with this paint? Thanks for your help!
YoungHouseLove says
I’ve painted tons of rooms by myself, and you’re right, cutting in everywhere once and then rolling and then cutting in a second time and rolling a second time is my favorite method! Just take your time and put on some good tunes (and have a full belly). You can do it!
xo,
s
Michelle says
Hello I have a quick question hoping you guys can help from designer point of view! My house has all wood stained trim fairly light/medium in colour and I am not too impressed with it. what would you suggest doing with it? Painting it white or another colour? Or re-staining it a rich dark brown? If I restain it would I have to sand it all first? Please help!!!
YoungHouseLove says
I would paint it all glossy white! It’s definitely a personal preference thing, but we did that with both our first house and second house (just use primer + paint in semi-gloss!). Good luck!
xo,
s
Chrissy says
Hey, love your site! You have such great tips! How do you go about painting a room by yourself? My only experience with painting has been where I cut in and my husband will go over with the roller. But in cases where I want to paint a room and he’s not around to help I’m not sure how to go about cutting the edges and using the roller without worrying the paint won’t dry even. I’ve heard you should try and roll over where you cut in before the paint dries. Any suggestions on how to paint the room accurately by yourself?
YoungHouseLove says
We have both painted rooms alone and as long as you cut in, roll, cut in, roll in that order, it all looks good when it’s dry! Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Jessica says
You two are such an inspiration – I always come here first when I’m ready to tackle a project! Sorry if you’ve answered this question elsewhere, but if one needs to paint their trim and walls, which would you recommend painting first? Thanks so much!
YoungHouseLove says
Aw thanks! I would do trim first, then wall.
xo,
s
Lisa Gentry says
Hey Sherry, I have two quick questions for you! Do you still find that you don’t need to use a primer even if you use no-VOC paints like Olympic? Or does it work ok without a primer? Also, how long do you recommend letting the paint fumes dissipate before moving in? I’m pregnant and we are painting our new house, so I’m trying to figure out if 3 days is enough time to make it fairly safe, and what no-VOC paint to use. Thanks a lot!
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yes, I only use primer if there’s a super dark color I’m going over, or I’m painting wood or another type of furniture (but paint sticks very well to plaster/drywall). As for how long to wait, if you’re using no-VOC paint, I’d just wait until it’s dry (24-48 hours). After that it’s all good!
xo,
s
Anita Herself says
I find the tidiest way to paint above the trim is to tape off the trim and press hard on the tape. Then if you have the trim color paint paint use it to paint over the tape so that any color that drips under the tape is the white. Now paint cut in the wall color above the paint. Once you are done both coats take the tape off as soon as you are finished painting the wall. I like using an exact knife to cut the paint on vertical trim (doors, windows) but I usually just pull off the tape carefully, but surely.
Also if you want to paint a red or purple wall use a coat of grey as a primer to get rid of the white in the wall.
YoungHouseLove says
Smart! Great tip.
xo
s
leah kerbs says
We just moved into our first house…exciting!! And I can’t wait to paint all the rooms! We painted the nursery first and so far that’s the only room we’ve done so far but we are planning to tackle the other bedrooms and the living room/entryway this month. The nursery turned out pretty good (it was our first time painting ever) however, there are some spots I’m noticing now that need touched up but I’m not sure the best way to do that. There are some spots that have little speckles where you can see the color underneath…its like freckles on a wall except only noticeable if you are up close. I want to fix it and hope I don’t have to repaint the whole room…your advice would be appreciated!!! I love your blog btw I read it often. Just read the breastfeeding post actually and it was helpful! Thanks for everything!
YoungHouseLove says
I would just lightly roll over those areas to touch them up. Should blend right in when they’re dry.
xo
s
Katie says
Does anyone just do one coat of paint? My husband and I painted basically our whole downstairs this weekend with some pretty dark colors, and we got really good coverage with one coat. We used Behr paint + primer in one. Thoughts?
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yeah, sometimes with Benjamin Moore now we can do just one coat. It depends on the quality and coverage, but if it looks great after one (and it’s fully dry) you’re good to go! We try not to judge it when it’s wet because it can look good and then dry and be patchy. Hope it helps!
xo
s
Sarah says
Maybe I just need more practice or need to change my ways, but painting takes me FOREVER. I always like the outcome, but DREAD the process…
Laura says
We are going to be moving in to the house my mom grew up in (which my grandfather built in the late 50’s)and I have been obsessing over all of your painting information. The house is full of the typical orangey brown trim and floor to ceiling tongue and groove. I used the short handled brush you recommend and I cannot believe the difference it made in cutting in. We are on our 2nd coat of paint following one coat of oil based primer and I can’t figure out what I ever did without it! I will never tape again:)
YoungHouseLove says
I’m so glad! It’s such an upgrade, right?!
xo
s
Sloan says
Love all your helpful tips! Any recs on painting window trim? And ever tackled popcorn or textured ceilings??
YoungHouseLove says
We’ve never tackled popcorn ceilings but I think if you google are there are a bunch of tutorials! As for painting window trim, we do it the same way we do other trim (with a 2″ angled brush) and use a razor to scrape any paint that gets on the panes off. Good luck!
xo
s
Johanna says
Hi John & Sherry!
Please forgive me if you’ve already talked about this elsewhere — I skimmed most of the comments and have searched the site, but I haven’t found the answer to my question(s) yet.
I recently peeled off the horrible wallpaper (from 1984!) in my guest bedroom and finally worked up the nerve to tackle my first paint job. Woohoo! I’m both super excited and super nervous. The problem, though, is that I don’t know if I can start painting right away or if there are any prepping steps I need to do first — I saw you mention a few times that you yourselves don’t prime first, but do you need to, I don’t know, wash the walls first? Is that even possible? I’m leaning towards wiping the walls down with warm (soapy?) water to remove any residual adhesive…is that good enough, or are there more steps that I need to do to prep the walls?
Also, I think the room was originally salmon, because three walls are white but the last is salmon with white cut in from the edges. Would I have to paint the rest of that wall white first so that the new paint color would show up the same way, or are most paints opaque enough that it won’t matter? (I’m still debating between Behr’s Morning Breeze, which initially caught my eye, and Behr’s Refreshing Pool, a warm fun green that makes me happy, if that helps.)
There are also some old screws / anchors in the wall; is there a way to sand that down / remove them?
I know you’re both busy with Clara / blog writing / project doing, so I appreciate you taking the time to read this as well as any insights you might have!
Johanna says
Yikes, JUST came across the updates on your newest house, so please ignore my previous post! Just one quick question: can the old screws / anchors be taken out? They look pretty stuck in the wall to me…
YoungHouseLove says
So glad those previous updates helped! As for the anchors, you can hammer them deeper into the wall and just spackle over them for a smooth look. I’d remove the screws though. Good luck!
xo
s
beth says
Would love a separate, more detailed post on prepping walls, especially patching holes, sanding rough/uneven spots, washing walls, dealing with cracked or crumbling drywall, and painting around sinks (i.e. remove caulk, paint, re-apply caulk???). Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Would love to write one for ya!
xo
s
Melinda says
I looooooove all of your tips you guys offer. When you paint while pregnant, does your Dr. have you take any extra special precautions to keep mommy and baby safe?
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yes, I only use no-VOC paint, but that’s really easy to get these days! A few options are Olympic Premium, Benjamin Moore Natura, and Mythic paint. Hope it helps!
xo
s
Elizabeth says
I came across this post while I was googling around for wall painting tips a few days ago. i wish I had kept track of how many times I said to my husband, “Homie, think about what this room would look like right now if we didn’t cover our floors.”
I am so dang impressed by your skills. Ya’ll make DIY look easy. I make Do It Someone Else look necessary.
YoungHouseLove says
Haha, thanks Elizabeth! It’s completely one of those practice-over-time skillz (much like freestyle rapping). We were terrible in the first few years – like trainwreck bad (about picking colors and getting them on the walls) and then slowly over years and years of doing it over and over again (we repainted nearly every room in our first house since the first colors we picked were so bad) we got a little better each time.
xo
s