Whether you’re interested in painting a chair, a table, or any other wooden piece of furniture, the steps are pretty much the same.
Take this table that we built and subsequently painted along with the accompanying white chairs (which used to be a golden blond wood tone).
Sprucing things up with a fresh coat of white paint took them from thrift store (where we got the table base) to Pottery Barn (which sells a similar version of it for 500 beans) in just a few hours.
But enough jibber-jabber. On with the how-to deets:
Step 1- Evaluate the surface of the piece that you’d like to paint. If it’s a sleek glossy surface (like varnished or sealed wood) you’ll want to gently sand the entire piece with 100 grit sandpaper). If it’s more of a dry chalky texture (like unfinished wood or flat paint) you can forgo the sandpaper and skip right to step two.
Step 2- Break out the oil-based primer to ensure that the paint sticks and no stains come through and ruin your finish (we’ve also used Zinsser Smart Prime with great success, which is a low-VOC stain-blocking primer that’s not oil-based – so it’s less stinky). Give the entire piece a good once over with a small foam roller or a paint brush. This coat of primer doesn’t have to be perfectly even in tone (it’ll probably look thinner in some areas since that’s how primer rolls) but as long as the entire piece is well covered – and it’s not too gloppy and thick – it’s ready for step three once it dries.
Step 3- Use a fresh small foam roller or paint brush to apply two thin and even coats of latex paint (a semi-gloss finish is usually best since it’s nice a wipe-able and durable choice). Many people mistakenly think that latex paint isn’t supposed to be applied over oil-based primer, but the real painting no-no is applying latex paint over oil-based paint, which is a guaranteed bubble-fest and should be avoided at all costs. And a word about small foam rollers vs. brushes: according to experts, all rollers – especially if used too quickly- may rile up the paint and lead to bubbles while paint brushes are the most bubble free application method known to man (although you might have brush stroke issues if the paint isn’t applied thinly enough or given ample drying time between coats).
We painted the table above with a paint brush, not a roller. But we have also used small foam rollers with great success, so those are actually our recommended choice for beginners since they cut down on brush strokes or drippy finishes and seem to be the most error proof. No matter what you use, be sure to wait until the first coat of paint is thoroughly dry before applying a second coat (each coat should be applied super lightly and evenly – aim for the thickness of an eggshell or a piece of paper). This thin application is the key to avoiding brush strokes or roller marks for a smooth, gorgeous finish. Repeat after me: three or even four super thin coats are far better than one or two thick and drippy ones!
Step 4- This step is optional, so think of it as extra credit. Brushing on two thin and even coats of water-based poly for wipe-able protection that really goes the extra mile (and provides a glossy oh-so-luxe sheen) can’t hurt if you pick the right stuff. The only two brands that we’ve ever used with unmatched success are these two, so they’re our strong recommendation (other types can yellow or crack over time):
- Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish in “Clear Gloss” (found at any home improvement center)
- Safecoat Acrylacq (which is a low-VOC, non-toxic alternative sold at eco boutiques or online at places like greendepot.com)
We went the extra mile and applied poly to our white table above for a bit of added protection, and we even thinly polyed the chairs since they need to be just as easy to wipe down due to their proximity to food whenever we dine in the sunroom. Thin is definitely the operative word, and again you’ll want to be sure to let the first coat thoroughly dry before going in for the second. Any time you go over semi-wet paint or poly to smooth things out you’ll get terrible drag marks, so work from one side to the other and never go back over things until they’re completely dry.
Step 5- Wait at least a full 72 hours to place objects on your newly painted piece to avoid dents or divots in your finish. If you really want to be on the safe side, we’d recommend waiting five full days. Sometimes factors like humidity and primer/paint/poly thickness can keep things from fully curing up, and you don’t want to get indents from using your newly painted piece too quickly. Waiting this long might take some willpower because you’re dying to sit on/eat on/enjoy your brand new piece, but it’s worth the wait. Promise.
Easy, right? Ok, those were a lot of words, so it might sound complicated. But just take things one step at a time. And remember to breathe. You can totally do it. There’s really no reason to live with wood furniture that’s not exactly the tone or the shade that you’d like. So from painting an old side table a handsome glossy black to giving a scratched up wooden chair a cheerful red tone, it’s definitely a project that you can confidently tackle in an afternoon. Go forth and paint something!
*Oh and it bears noting that if your furniture item is anything other than solid wood or veneered wood (like laminate, melamine, etc) you should visit your local hardware store and ask the paint pro there what they recommend for that surface. There are some great oil-based primers and enamel paints out there (which are changing all the time) so it might be possible to get a great result. The key is really roughing up the surface so it’s less glossy and then priming and painting with the best stuff they have (usually oil or enamel based).Good luck!
Psst- In the market for a quick cabinet painting tutorial? Look no further.
Psssst- Wondering how to paint a brick fireplace? Wonder no more.
Pssssssst- Itching to paint wood paneling? Try this.
Denise says
I recently painted 5 dining room chairs and my table with black latex paint. The chairs scratch super easy and the table is staying tacky. They table and chairs were a flat white painted finish before but we didn’t do the primer first. Is that our problem? We originally primed the table before it was painted white(years ago)…..but the chairs were never primed and we never had this issue…so do I need to sand all of it down, then prime then repaint? My problem with the chairs is they are now newly upholstured too so I have to work around that too.
YoungHouseLove says
Yes! You must use oil-based primer to get things to stick better. And thin and even coats of paint applied when each one is thoroughly dry is another thing that should happen in order to get a great result. Our advice would be to allow everything a lot of drying time (since you mentioned things are still tacky) and then a thorough sanding (as deep as possible). Then follow this tutorial and it’ll hopefully work out really well. Good luck!
xo,
s
Tonicka Allen says
First let me say that I am a daily lurker and love your blog. I have a pottery barn table I snagged off CL, but it is need of a paint job. If I follow your instructions as listed above, will the table be durable enough for daily use by a family. Oh yeah, Clara and burger are both sweeties.
YoungHouseLove says
Yes, it definitely should! Just apply thin and even coats of paint, let things dry before moving on to another coat, and be sure to use oil-based primer and the exact poly we recommend by name. Good luck!
xo,
s
Christine Buckley says
Hi – I painted an old maple dresser black with primer built in in a satin finish. I should have known better as I put stripes of semi-gloss poly in my dining room and thought that was too shiny then go out and buy the clear gloss poly you recommended and of course it is too shiny for my taste. Can I just put on the poly in satin and over the clear gloss poly, or do I have to sand the entire gloss poly off? I imagine I will have to sand it a little, but do have have to take the entire poly off and begin again?Thanks. p.s. I enjoy reading your blog and the info you extend to all. Christine
YoungHouseLove says
Just sanding a little should do the trick- then you can apply the satin poly. Good luck!
xo,
s
Martin says
We purchased a Pottery Barn Kitchen table with a beautiful off white slick surface. I didn’t read your suggestions to sand until after I painted with Valspar semi-gloss and when it was drying it “appeared” to be drying unevenly so I took a dry brush to “smooth” it out, yikes! So after it dried I went over with a roller and the table top surface is horrible and my wife and kids notice nothing slides over it. Do I need to sand the paint off? My brush strokes on the legs are acceptable but the smooth table top we definitely miss and I need to correct, help????
Thanks,
mb
YoungHouseLove says
We would recommend sanding things down as far as possible (stripping all the paint you added and some of the original varnish since you mentioned it was very slick to begin with). Then just follow this tutorial to the letter (definitely don’t skip the primer, and let every thin and even coat dry before moving onto the next one.) Oh and don’t go over things while they’re still wet. Slow and steady wins the race. Good luck!
xo,
s
Beth says
I painted a thrift store find dresser a satin black latex but feel it looks boring. I don’t like the distressed look-any suggestions for a glaze or something to dress it up?
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Maybe try painting the edges out with glossy white paint for a super frame-like high-contrast look. Or change out the hardware for gleaming glass knobs or paint the top of the dresser fire engine red. Even lining the drawers with some awesome graphic paper can spice things up. Just google around for ideas or look at magazines and design books for inspiration. Good luck!
xo,
s
Carli Sierra says
I painted a headboard, which I primed first and allow to dry for several days, I applied the first coat and allow to dry several hours; it felt dry to the touch. I applied the second coat and it has been several days and it is still tacky. I like the results except for the tacky feel. How can I correct it. Leave in the sun, apply poly finish?
YoungHouseLove says
Perhaps you didn’t use oil-based primer? Water-based primer can cause that tackiness you describe. Our recommendation would just be to give it a little longer and hopefully it’ll dry a it more. Also you can try dusting it with baby powder which we’ve heard can remove that tackiness a bit sooner (although admittedly we’ve never tried it so maybe test it in a small spot first). We wouldn’t apply poly at all (that will just seal in the tackiness and keep it from drying. But leaving it in the sun probably wouldn’t hurt. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Carli Sierra says
I left the headboard in the sun for a few hours and then brush on lightly the baby powder on the still tacky areas and it did the trick.
Thanks
YoungHouseLove says
So glad! Thanks for the update- and for sharing what worked!
xo,
s
Kristen says
I am beginning to think that I messed up a perfectly good cherrywood table!!
I have wood floors in my house and want a white table to brighten things up. So I went ahead and sanded down my cherrywood veneered table and when I went to paint it white the finish was bleeding through! What should I do to fix this problem!?
I hope to get an e-mail from you soon:( my dining table looks awful right now!
Thanks guys:)
YoungHouseLove says
Just follow the steps in this tutorial! You should use oil-based primer before the paint- that way it’ll block the bleed. Just sand things down and get the exact oil-based primer that we recommend here and follow the rest of the tutorial. Good luck!
xo,
s
Kristen says
I literally laughed at myself seconds after I listed this question in the very post that could help me out. Thanks! I will update you when I finish it:) *fingers crossed*
Karen says
I recently painted and distressed my kitchen island black(a color the paint store reccomended). When I applied the polycrylic(satin finish)it reflects too blue. I inquired at the paint store and they responded that it happens when you put the polycrylic over black. Was it the paint color(what black color have you used?)? Now what should I do??? Thanks for any advice you can give me!
YoungHouseLove says
So sorry! We’re guessing maybe it was the satin finish? And maybe that you put it on a bit thick (or a bunch of coats?). We would recommend sanding all that poly down and then using the exact poly (not in a satin finish) that we suggest in this post (since it’s the one we have the most luck with). And we would just apply two to three thin thin thin and even coats (around the thickness of a piece of paper). Hope it helps! Good luck!
xo,
s
Michael says
Hey guys, love your website, you have some great tutorials! I have a question about putting a graphic on the table, or any table. If I decide to go the route of putting it on a table similar to the one here on this how to guide, I assume I could just put the decal on the table then apply the layers of clear gloss coating, but what if I put the decal on an already painted or laminate table, similar to the ones sold by Ikea, would I just be able to put the graphic down, and then put on the gloss coating? Thanks for your help, please continue your hard work, it’s appreciated!
YoungHouseLove says
Good question! We know when it comes to wood furniture that applying the graphic before the poly is definitely the way to go. But when it comes to laminate we’re not sure. That’s typically a glossier, smoother surface- so it doesn’t have great adhesion. So our suggestion would be to test the graphic & poly on an extra piece of laminate (or a hidden area of the furnishing) before going for it. Although I guess if the graphic is sticky enough (and you apply very very very thin and even coats of poly it should hopefully work out just fine. Remember thin thin thin!
xo,
s
SarahR says
Wow!! I was reading through the comments and you guys really respond to each one!! That is so great. So here is my question….each of my girls have your typical maple dresser…like from the 60’s…which have a very slick finish. So should I just follow the same directions, and sand down to the wood? How many days shoud I set aside for this project?
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, anything slick needs sanding. Depending how quickly you work, you can probably sand things down in 2-3 hours, prime in about an hour, and paint two thin and even coats in about an hour – then the poly should take another hour. But keep in mind that you can’t do the whole project in 5-ish hours since you’ll also need to account for drying time between coats. Two afternoons (one for sanding and priming, and one for painting & polying with lots of drying breaks should do the trick. And since the dresser isn’t something you’ll eat off of you can skip the poly step altogether (just be sure to use a semi-gloss or gloss paint as opposed to a flat or satin finish). So that’s an easy way to save some time!
xo,
s
Julia says
Hi Sherry and John!
I just thought I would let you know that I took on a painting project today, a round pedestal table that I picked up at a thrift store that I have now painted antique white. I went to Home Depot yesterday with your instructions (oil primer, 100 grit sand paper and latex paint) and the guy at home depot told me to just use Behr’s paint and primer in one and 220 grit sand paper….and so far so good! I still need to do a second coat in just a few places for some touch ups but all and all it was SO easy!!! So I thought I would pass on that the Behr product is really good, not sure if you have used it, but it was nice to only have to do one (and a bit) coats! Plus, I did it inside with the windows closed and its not smelly at all!
YoungHouseLove says
Thanks for the info Julia! We actually love the Behr primer & paint stuff but we don’t recommend it for things that could bleed (stained old wooden items, for example) since we have had issues with stains and dark rings coming through without the express use of a separate oil-based primer, but we’re so glad it’s working for you! It’s definitely one of those things that makes the process really easy if you don’t have old wood stain or oil spots that could come through and ruin your finish!
xo,
s
Barb Quigley says
Would you recommend using a paint stripper on a varnished piece of furniture instead of sanding? Thanks….I am trying to get the courage to do a desk!
YoungHouseLove says
We always recommend sanding as opposed to chemicals (which can be stinky and unpredictable). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
bluu says
I am preparing myself to repaint a tall chest of drawers. This is my first time doing a project of this magnitude! My friend has an electric sander and I was wondering should i sand by hand or use the electric(which I never used before)?
YoungHouseLove says
When in doubt, sand by hand. It’s a workout but it’s harder to mess up. Good luck!
xo,
s
Angel says
Hi! I have a pine wood bedroom set that has a glossy finish and some carved designs that I desperately want to refinish and paint black. I’m very nervous about such a large project. If I am unable to sand inside of the crevices, will the new paint stick in those spots? Not sure if I should attempt this? Or would a glaze paint go right on top of the finished unsanded wood surface?
YoungHouseLove says
Sand as much as you can get to and then be sure to use the oil-based primer (water-based doesn’t hold as well, so especially because of those crevices you want the foundation to be really nice and “sticky” for the paint). Oh and remember to do thin and even coats. And wait for them to fully dry. Slow and steady is the key.
Good luck! You can do it!
xo,
s
Shalan says
We have 2 distressed lacquered pieces in Red that we would like repaint to a darker colour – espresso finish. The pieces are from Pottery Barn. We don’t particularly care if the ‘New Espresso’ stain will hold the distressed look.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks so much!
Shalan
YoungHouseLove says
Just follow this tutorial to the letter! Good luck!
xo,
s
Gerald A.... says
Hi, Im thinking about changing the color of our baby furiture. Its a cherry finish now and need to paint it white. With that being said do I need anything special ??? Thanks Gerald…
YoungHouseLove says
Just follow this tutorial and be sure to use oil-based primer so the cherry doesn’t bleed through. Good luck!
xo,
s
Jennifer says
Hello,
I am in the process of refinishing a table and chairs for a friend. It had a white painted finish on it that i lightly sanded and am now ready to paint. It is going to be black and i was going to paint it with a black oil based paint but am having second thoughts after reading your article. Since i don’t have to worry about any stain bleeding through do you think i can forgo the primer and just put on a coat, maybe two of the oil based paint? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Noooo! Definitely use primer. It helps the paint stick so it doesn’t flake off or chip easily. It’s the perfect foundation and is definitely a necessary step!
xo,
s
Gaby L says
Hi YHL,
I am painting a crib that was finished in white paint. i checked with the manufacturer and it’s totally lead/toxic free. I’ve sanded one of the pieces and it’s taking forever! especially the individual rails…do I really have to sand it down to the wood? I have 3 more pieces to go and my arms are about to fall off. Can I just go straight to primer? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Gaby,
Unfortunately low-VOC oil-based primers don’t exist (oil paint has tons of nasty chemicals in it) so we would recommend sticking with the Safecoat Primer since it’s a lot less toxic (although it might not be quite as durable and might take longer to cure up. As for the sanding thing, just rough up as much as you can. Since you’re painting and not staining it, you don’t have to get down to the bare wood. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
gaby L says
Hi YHL,
Also forgot to mention I am using Safecoat Transitional Primer that is water based. I chose the low VOC because I’m 6 mths prego. Can you suggest a low VOC oil based primer? Thanks again!
Steph says
I’ve had this post bookmarked forever and it came in really handy while painting some furniture recently. I thought it only fitting to come over to leave you some love and say a big THANKS. I’m happy to see the other recent comments on here too. Great post FOR SURE!
YoungHouseLove says
So glad to help!
xo,
s
Lisa says
How do you feel about using a paint sprayer to paint furniture? I don’t have a lot of time and feel like a sprayer will be quicker.
YoungHouseLove says
We only recommend those if you’re experienced (suuuper skilled) when it comes to using them. Otherwise they’re not a short cut at all because you’ll end up with spotty pieces covered with drips and other imperfections. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Kay says
we are painting an unfinished pine bookcase. Do you recommend the steps above. We are painting it black.
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, should work like a charm!
xo,
s
Helen says
This post is great! I know it’s been up for a while, but I’m hoping you see my question anyways. A Craigslist poster has the top of this great dresser listed as laminate. However, the pictures look like wood veneer to me. Any keys for when I go to inspect the dresser in distinguishing which one it is? I also did some research into your refinished dresser for the nursery, and some sites have the top listed as “wood laminate”, adding to my confusion. If the top really is laminate, and not wood veneer, what are my options? (I asked a guy at Home Depot this, he looked like a deer in headlights.)
YoungHouseLove says
Laminate is typically glossy and plastic-feeling like Ikea furniture while wood veneer is just a thin piece of wood that is applied to a frame which is usually apparent if you open a drawer or look at the back. Wood veneer can be refinished or painted just like solid wood but we don’t recommend painting laminate (since it can crack & peel). Good luck!
xo,
s
Stacey says
I’m thinking of painting a wood bed frame white. The siderails appear to be metal though. The headboard and footrails should be no problem, but I’m afraid I won’t be able to get the siderails to match. Any tips for painting metal to match?
YoungHouseLove says
Metal actually takes paint really well so just apply a few thin and even coats and you should be all set! Good luck!
xo,
s
Sandra says
I love that you are answering all of these comments! Great job and thanks for the tutorial. I’m off to paint!
Paige says
Ok I’m about to tackle this one on an old bed my parents just passed down. Is there a specific type of primer you recommend? Thanks so much for this tutorial! I literally don’t know what I’d do without it.
Paige
YoungHouseLove says
We use the Kilz oil-based can that specifically says “stainblocking” on it. Good luck!
xo,
s
wanda says
I have an old,old dresser that the veneer has come off, do I paint it as any other wood? This is my first attempt at painting furniture, so your tutorial is a very big help to me. This sounds like so much fun, I can’t wait to get started.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Wanda,
It depends what’s behind the veneer. If it’s solid wood this post should work- but if it’s fiberboard or particle board or other sub-par stuff, it might not work very well if painted. Although you could try a super dark color just to try to save it before giving up. Good luck!
xo,
s
Kelly says
I saw on a recent post (can’t find it now) that you planned on spray painting your door knobs in the new house. Is there a specific kind of paint to use? This would sure beat buying new ones! Also, would spray painting a bathroom faucet work as well?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Kelly,
We’re really not sure how to approach that (or if it’ll even work) but we’re going to give it a try and blog all about our process when we get there!
xo,
s
Inspire Me Heather says
Great tutorial, I have come back several times since you wrote it for advice. I linked it to my “dining room tables” project post today too – come on by and check it out!
Joy says
Hi! FURNITURE CRISIS!! lol. I just painted a dresser white and I also used a crackle finish (for the first time) to give it a more distressed look. I learned after the fact that I cannot use a water based poly with crackle finish. = ( Do you have any suggestions on what sort of top coat I can use that won’t stain the furniture yellow, but is not water-based? THANKS!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Joy,
So sorry but we don’t have experience with crackle finish. Maybe just ask the paint pros at the home improvement store?
xo,
s
andrea says
I have the ugliest but very sturdy bedroom furniture and I desperately want to paint it. I think its real wood but not 100 percent sure, how can i find out, and if it’s not can it be painted?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Andrea,
We’d sand it a little and see if you still see grain. Assuming you don’t uncover fiberboard or notice that it’s very thin veneer (which you’ve then sanded through) you should be good to go. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Lisa says
Do you suggest a roller or a brush to apply the poly?
YoungHouseLove says
We always prefer to apply the poly with a brush. Thin and even coats work best!
xo,
s
Amber says
Hi Sherry –
Love the blog! I used this tutorial to paint a white Ikea Expedit bookcase (which I now see you recommend NOT painting) a dark navy blue. Although I followed all of your directions, it looks like I sponge painted the whole thing, and you can see a lot of my paint lines. Do you have any suggestions on how to acquire the smooth finish I was going for? I’ve applied two coats so far and I’m not sure if more paint will help or hurt! Thanks so much!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Amber,
Hmm, I would let it dry as thoroughly as possible and then use a small foam roller to roll on one or two more thin thin thin and even coats. Hopefully you’ll get that coverage you’re going for (dark colors tend to need a ton of coats anyway). Good luck!
xo,
s
Sarah says
Hello – I am so happy I found your blog! I am about to embark on a project of painting some old Crate and Barrel chairs/ottoman and coffee table. They are an espresso wood color now, and I want to paint them “SLICK” black.
I ordered the following spray paint figuring that it would be easiest to spray the pieces as they are a mission style and have a lot of crevices.
My question to you is that I will sand as best I can (I am assuming I don’t have to get completely down into all the slats/crevices – -and now I will definitely use the oil based primer.
Are you familiar with the following spray paint brand: Rust-oleum Universal Gloss Black Spray? I hate to have to get new paint if this would work
I will definitely use the oil based primer, do I also need to finish with the poly? Any assistance you can offer is MUCH appreciated!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Sarah,
Yup, we’re familiar with that brand of spray paint and actually prefer it when it comes to projects that we recommend using spray paint for. Unfortunately we haven’t had good luck spraying furniture (experts all agree as well as we do that unless you’re a pro with a paint gun you should always brush or roll paint on from a can instead of spraying it). We use spray paint for metal outdoor chairs with lots of grooves, or metal based lamps or rough ceramic figurines (they all take spray paint very well) but wood furniture has always worked best when we roll or brush stuff on. You can take the risk if you’d like but we personally wouldn’t spray a big piece of furniture like that. And the poly is extra credit, but it’s definitely not necessary. For beginners we recommend semi-gloss paint with no sealant on top (to avoid drips, yellowing, etc). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Sarah says
Hi – – thank you for the prompt reply. I don’t want to have to re-do this so i will go with your advise on the brush. I do want to have a high gloss finish – – is there a specific paint you would recommend? Thanks again for your help.
Also – – any suggestion on repainting the trim in our house that is a water-based high gloss with an oil base one – – or would we achieve the same look with a poly??
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Sarah,
We have had a lot of success with Behr, so maybe try a black paint from Behr in a high gloss finish? Good luck! Remember that the first or second coat might have brush strokes, but thin and even coats with ample drying time will solve that, and by the third coat (or fourth since you’re dealing with black paint) the brush strokes should be gone!
xo,
s
Sarah says
Hi, me again! I just got back from the paint store picking up my oil based primer. The store is a Benjamin Moore store, so they SHOULD know their stuff. They asked what I was doing, and I explained – – – they said it would be better to stick with OIL all the way through the project – – basically because I was putting a soft layer, latex, in between two hard layers. They said this is not as durable and would lead to cracking later on. I see that you are in the Richmond area, I am in DC so I know you have humidity too – -I really don’t want to use an oil based on the furniture – – have you ever had issues or questions like this? I think your method seems tried and true – – just was wondering since it was coming from the paint guys. Thanks again for your advise!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Sarah,
There’s more than one way to skin a cat. We have found with oil based paint that it takes weeks longer to dry which results in dings and dents and a much less perfect finish than latex paint (which cures up faster). We haven’t had any issues with cracking or anything else when it comes to our method (which is what a lot of other experts recommend as well, there are just a few other methods out there) so feel free to follow whichever advice you’d like. You most likely can’t go wrong either way! Good luck!
xo,
s
marga psi says
Hi! THanks for the advice. We have a hand me down table, an octagon table top and “farmer” style legs. Priming and painting the base and tung oil finishing the top. Your blog is much appreciated.
Thank you,
Margs
YoungHouseLove says
Sounds fun. Good luck!
xo,
s
christopher says
What is the benefit of applying laytex paint as opposed to oil based? I thought oil based paints provided a stronger surface.
Thanks for the great post.
YoungHouseLove says
You can scroll back through the comments for a lot more info, but in our experience latex paint dries up much more quickly and once it cures you don’t have to worry about dents or dings which occur more frequently and ruin a perfect finish when you use oil-based paint (which can literally take weeks or even over a month in certain weather situations to dry). For that reason we prefer latex and have never had any issues with adhesion or durability. The oil-based primer “foundation” keeps it nice and strong.
xo,
s
dave says
Good Afternoon Im Going to be redoing a dresser that i got from my neighbors.now I have sanded it all down and was wondering if i paint it with a roller will it look as good as the picture of your table with no streaks in the paint?
YoungHouseLove says
If you use a small foam roller and apply thin and even coats, waiting for each one to dry before going on to the next one, it should look really nice and seamless. Good luck!
xo,
s
rose says
I want to paint a side table dk. brown, I am going to sand the edges, can I apply a stain over where I sanded so it is not so light or white where I have sanded? Do I have to seal it afterward?
YoungHouseLove says
Yes, you should be able to stain the parts you have sanded to help them blend in. And sealing everything with some water based poly should help it look even more seamless (and protect it). Good luck!
xo,
s
rose says
I also want it to have a flat or matte finish, won’t the poly make it “shiny”?
YoungHouseLove says
You can find matte finish poly and shinier poly. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Amani says
Super duper helpful. Thanks!
Libby says
we just purchased an old desk off of craigslist with hopes of refinishing it and using it in our office/guest bedroom. first, we will be purchasing a power sander today, because I refuse to hand sand for three hours ever again. but second, everything on it is wood except for the top – it’s definitely not laminate, it’s fake. how do we go about painting that?
YoungHouseLove says
That can be very very tricky. We actually haven’t heard of paint treatments that last on fake wood when it comes to things like dining tables since they get so much wear (and chip and peel). Maybe some new heavy duty spray paint? We’d ask what they recommend at the hardware store!
xo,
s
Amani says
Hi YHL!
I know you said to purchase an oil based primer, but I was wondering your thoughts on Sherwin Williams Adhesion Primer -which is latex based. I spoke to the representative and he said this is the best stuff, its even used for glass.
YoungHouseLove says
We’ve never used it but if an expert says it works you might want to trust them. The only issue is that most latex based paints can’t block oil-based bleed through (like stain on wood paneling or stained or bleeding oak furniture that you’ve sanded down) so even though it could work on glass you might see brown stains seeping through your painted wood finish a few weeks later! We have never had bad results with oil-based stuff so it’s definitely what we recommend.
xo,
s
Lindsey says
Ok so we have this old furniture that is press wood with laminate. The problem was we didn’t like the wood color and my sister had made water circles on the top (tisk tisk for not using a coaster). Anyway, so we sanded it lightly (probably shouldnt have), then sprayed a primer on the whole thing. Then we used a semi-gloss black spraypaint (Rustoleum) to paint it. The problem is that it looks spotchy. We hold it the recommended distance away, and have put multiple coats on it. We have no clue what we are doing wrong. We are thinking of just putting a sealant/poly on the top and maybe that will help… but maybe you have experienced something similar?
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, spraying furniture is usually not the best idea because it ends up splotchy just as you describe. We always prefer rolling or painting with a brush. Maybe a quick trip to the store for a quart of black paint and a small foam roller will solve it? Good luck!
xo,
s
Margaret - Shabby Chic says
I find your post so very helpful,the step by step advice that you give mean so much for me because I am in the process of painting my old divider.Looking forward for your next post.
Jamie says
Hi Sherry,
Love your blog and all of the tips that you give – It’s all very helpful!
I have a few diy projects that I want to do..
1. I have two black tables from boston interiors that I want to paint a cream color. Do you suggest using paint or spray paint? If you could run through your suggestions and how to’s with these that would be very helpful!
2. I have two side tables and a coffee table all with black wrought iron black legs and a nice rustic wood top. I want to paint the legs a cream color. My question again, paint or spray paint and how to’s?
Thanks again
Jamie
YoungHouseLove says
Just follow this tutorial to the letter for the black tables (no spray paint!!!) and this tutorial will also work for the metal legs you mention (as would spray paint of you tape everything off and apply thin and even coats, but sometimes paint applied with a brush is more error proof). Good luck!
xo,
s
Christie says
Hello! First of all, I would like to say that I love your blog! You guys are very creative and definitely ambitious to tackle all that you do. Second, thank you so much for the great tutorial! We were given a hand-me-down bedroom set, that was great in quality, but didn’t really match anything we already owned. After 6 months of waffling, and reading (and re-reading) your tutorial, we decided to give it a shot and paint it all! We couldn’t be happier with the results! We did try two methods. First we tried applying the primer and paint with a brush, and even though we were putting on super thin layers, we just couldn’t get that smooth look we were going for. We switched to a high density foam roller, and wahla! (Lots of high fives were exchanged. It was pretty exciting stuff.) Thanks for the recommendation(and the new bedroom set!) Keep up the great work!
YoungHouseLove says
Wahoo! So excited for you. Congrats on your “new” kitchen!
xo,
s