Whether you’re interested in painting a chair, a table, or any other wooden piece of furniture, the steps are pretty much the same.
Take this table that we built and subsequently painted along with the accompanying white chairs (which used to be a golden blond wood tone).
Sprucing things up with a fresh coat of white paint took them from thrift store (where we got the table base) to Pottery Barn (which sells a similar version of it for 500 beans) in just a few hours.
But enough jibber-jabber. On with the how-to deets:
Step 1- Evaluate the surface of the piece that you’d like to paint. If it’s a sleek glossy surface (like varnished or sealed wood) you’ll want to gently sand the entire piece with 100 grit sandpaper). If it’s more of a dry chalky texture (like unfinished wood or flat paint) you can forgo the sandpaper and skip right to step two.
Step 2- Break out the oil-based primer to ensure that the paint sticks and no stains come through and ruin your finish (we’ve also used Zinsser Smart Prime with great success, which is a low-VOC stain-blocking primer that’s not oil-based – so it’s less stinky). Give the entire piece a good once over with a small foam roller or a paint brush. This coat of primer doesn’t have to be perfectly even in tone (it’ll probably look thinner in some areas since that’s how primer rolls) but as long as the entire piece is well covered – and it’s not too gloppy and thick – it’s ready for step three once it dries.
Step 3- Use a fresh small foam roller or paint brush to apply two thin and even coats of latex paint (a semi-gloss finish is usually best since it’s nice a wipe-able and durable choice). Many people mistakenly think that latex paint isn’t supposed to be applied over oil-based primer, but the real painting no-no is applying latex paint over oil-based paint, which is a guaranteed bubble-fest and should be avoided at all costs. And a word about small foam rollers vs. brushes: according to experts, all rollers – especially if used too quickly- may rile up the paint and lead to bubbles while paint brushes are the most bubble free application method known to man (although you might have brush stroke issues if the paint isn’t applied thinly enough or given ample drying time between coats).
We painted the table above with a paint brush, not a roller. But we have also used small foam rollers with great success, so those are actually our recommended choice for beginners since they cut down on brush strokes or drippy finishes and seem to be the most error proof. No matter what you use, be sure to wait until the first coat of paint is thoroughly dry before applying a second coat (each coat should be applied super lightly and evenly – aim for the thickness of an eggshell or a piece of paper). This thin application is the key to avoiding brush strokes or roller marks for a smooth, gorgeous finish. Repeat after me: three or even four super thin coats are far better than one or two thick and drippy ones!
Step 4- This step is optional, so think of it as extra credit. Brushing on two thin and even coats of water-based poly for wipe-able protection that really goes the extra mile (and provides a glossy oh-so-luxe sheen) can’t hurt if you pick the right stuff. The only two brands that we’ve ever used with unmatched success are these two, so they’re our strong recommendation (other types can yellow or crack over time):
- Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish in “Clear Gloss” (found at any home improvement center)
- Safecoat Acrylacq (which is a low-VOC, non-toxic alternative sold at eco boutiques or online at places like greendepot.com)
We went the extra mile and applied poly to our white table above for a bit of added protection, and we even thinly polyed the chairs since they need to be just as easy to wipe down due to their proximity to food whenever we dine in the sunroom. Thin is definitely the operative word, and again you’ll want to be sure to let the first coat thoroughly dry before going in for the second. Any time you go over semi-wet paint or poly to smooth things out you’ll get terrible drag marks, so work from one side to the other and never go back over things until they’re completely dry.
Step 5- Wait at least a full 72 hours to place objects on your newly painted piece to avoid dents or divots in your finish. If you really want to be on the safe side, we’d recommend waiting five full days. Sometimes factors like humidity and primer/paint/poly thickness can keep things from fully curing up, and you don’t want to get indents from using your newly painted piece too quickly. Waiting this long might take some willpower because you’re dying to sit on/eat on/enjoy your brand new piece, but it’s worth the wait. Promise.
Easy, right? Ok, those were a lot of words, so it might sound complicated. But just take things one step at a time. And remember to breathe. You can totally do it. There’s really no reason to live with wood furniture that’s not exactly the tone or the shade that you’d like. So from painting an old side table a handsome glossy black to giving a scratched up wooden chair a cheerful red tone, it’s definitely a project that you can confidently tackle in an afternoon. Go forth and paint something!
*Oh and it bears noting that if your furniture item is anything other than solid wood or veneered wood (like laminate, melamine, etc) you should visit your local hardware store and ask the paint pro there what they recommend for that surface. There are some great oil-based primers and enamel paints out there (which are changing all the time) so it might be possible to get a great result. The key is really roughing up the surface so it’s less glossy and then priming and painting with the best stuff they have (usually oil or enamel based).Good luck!
Psst- In the market for a quick cabinet painting tutorial? Look no further.
Psssst- Wondering how to paint a brick fireplace? Wonder no more.
Pssssssst- Itching to paint wood paneling? Try this.
Laura says
Hi- This is the most helpful blog I’ve come across in a long time! I have a dining room table in the same style as yours (pictured above) that I would also like to paint white. May I ask what particular brand of oil-based primer did you use? Also, what brand/color of semi-gloss paint would you recommend in order for it to look like yours?
Thanks so much!
YoungHouseLove says
We used Kilz Oil-Based primer (be sure not to get the water-based kind!) and then followed that with semi-gloss off-the-shelf white paint by Freshaire (sold by Home Depot I think). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Andrea says
Love your site! Am getting ready to embarq on painting a ton of odds and ends antique furniture I have aquired from family members over the years and you have made it seem more possible to tackle this humongous undertaking on my own. We live in Florida, and I am worried about the humidity affecting the jobs though, as I’ve painted small things before and they have taken FOR-EV-ER to dry! Is there anything you recommend? A fan maybe? I do this in my garage..or maybe do the sanding outside and paint indoors? Also, do you recommend hand sanding or using a electric sander? And lastly, we are redoing our daughter’s room, we are trying to repurpose everything and we put our old metal (fake wrought iron look)black headboard on her bed, but we would rather have it be white…any suggestions for painting that?? Thanks a million!!! You guys rock!!
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yes, things like fans or even outside drying time can really help! Any sort of ventilation or warm sun can help things cure up. As for hand sanding or using an electric one, either can work so do whatever feels most comfortable. As for metal, three thin and even coats of spay paint can look awesome. Good luck!
xo,
s
Jessica S. says
I just wanted to say Thank you for your easy tutorial! I followed it this week and painted 2 dressers that have been needing it for a LONG time. I was intimidated by the idea of doing it myself but i just decided to do it thanks to your great tips and encouragement.
YoungHouseLove says
So glad to helps! And congrats!
xo,
s
barbara says
Love everything you do. So creative! Do you think that white or light colors always look the best when painting furniture? I’m painting a desk and credenza in my office, and I have some great caramel-colored glass knobs that I want to put on them. Any suggestions as to color?
YoungHouseLove says
I definitely love painted furniture of all colors! A rich peacock blue would look awesome with caramel colored knobs! Maybe just bring home a ton of swatches and hold them up to the desk and the knobs to see what you love? Good luck!
xo,
s
fabiana yee says
I love your website! You guys have inspired me to DIY a lot of things and I am having so much fun doing it. My apartment looks so much better thanks to you:)
I painted my desk after reading this post, but I have a problem now.
I painted my veneered (ikea) desk with Behr Premium Semi Gloss Paint. This paint includes the primer mixed in it. 2 days later, my desk still feels sticky! how long does latex paint take to dry?
I was wondering if I could solve my problem by painting on 2 coats of the Minwax gloss over the sticky paint?
Thank you for your help and keep up the great work!
YoungHouseLove says
I wouldn’t put any Minwax on it. That will just create more layers that will take longer to dry. It can take up to a week (especially if it’s humid) for paint to cure so I would give it as long as possible to avoid a messy situation (like peeling paint or dings from placing things on the desk). Good luck!
xo,
s
Sonal says
Both me and my husband love your blog and I cannot thank you both enough for this wonderful post that was so easy to follow for re-painting a side table for our two year old’s room.This was our first ever painting project and we were suprised how easy it was.
Love the details that you have provided.
The more we read your blog more confident we got about doing more DIY(especially repainting furniture)I kept thinking if your can do it why can’t we give it a shot.
I have linked this post on my blog.
Thank you for sharing and being such a great inspiration.
Sonal
YoungHouseLove says
Aw thanks for the link love and the kind words Sonal! Good luck with everything!
xo,
s
Dan says
I started my first project after reading your blog too. I primed with spray paint and it takes too many cans and I can confirm the loss of control and drips. I’m definitely going to use a brush for the paint. Thanks for putting this site together it gave me the push to get started. White furniture does so much for a room! Thanks again!
Lynn says
I have a painting question. I painted my wooden chairs with three coats of satin latex (black) and love the look of them. After about a week’s drying, my husband sat on one and left imprints of his jeans on the seat. What’s up? Should I have put a coat of poly over the paint?
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
If you didn’t use oil-based primer that’s the problem. Poly over it will just make them more sticky, so it all starts with good primer. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Dana Hale says
Is this the method you recommend for children’s furniture? My husband is building a small table and chairs for our 2 year-old. We envision her using it for snacks and art (crayons, markers, paint, play-doh). I am planning to paint it an espresso color to coordinate with our kitchen and minimize her stray marks :)
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, we’d use no-VOC paint after the primer though. And then SafeCoat water-based sealer instead of oil-based poly. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
tiffany george says
ok so I just bought a very old but very cute all wood dresser for my unborn baby girl, but it smells like old people. You guys buy old furniture off of craiglist all the time don’t you? Has this ever been a problem for a you and if so what is the very best method to get the most stink out???? Thank You!!!!!
YoungHouseLove says
We’ve heard that putting a bowl of coffee grounds in each drawer for a while it can absorb odors (you can also try a box of baking soda). Then I’d wipe them down with vinegar and let them air dry completely open. Should be all set!
xo,
s
Kirsten says
Hi Sherry~ LOVE, LOVE, LOVE your website! As newleyweds and new home owners of a historic townhouse, you offer a lot of creative, useful information on “how to” for our home! Question:
My husband and I purchased a few of IKEA’s LACK side tables to use for our wedding decor last year. I’d like to use the tables outside on our patio but wasn’t sure if they are completely weatherproof. Have you ever “weatherproofed” IKEA furniature? If so, your insight would be helpful. Here is the product information. LACK SIDE TABLE- Top: Particleboard, Fiberboard, ABS plastic, Printed and embossed acrylic paint, Clear acrylic lacquer
Filling material: Paper
Leg: Particleboard, Fiberboard, Foil
Thanks so much for your time!
YoungHouseLove says
I’d be a little worried about trying to retorfit them to endure outside weather, but maybe visit your local home improvement store and ask what type of sealer they would recommend? Something thick like a bar topping coat (you know that glossy half-inch surface on top of some bars) might work. Good luck!
xo,
s
Isabella says
My daughter repainted my grandson’s dresser. When it was finished it was very sticky and is still sticky a year later. can anyone tell me why I’m redoing my bedroom set I don’t want that to happen to me.
YoungHouseLove says
If you used water based primer instead of oil-based that could be the reason it’s sticky. Gotta use the good oil-based stuff (a very thin and even coat) and give it ample drying time (at least a day works best) and then follow that with very very thin and even coats of latex paint. This tutorial tends to work well if you stick to it very carefully! Good luck.
xo,
s
Laura Bellamy says
I have just read this post and it has been a real help. I am painting a 100-year-old family piano. Great piano, very worn appearance. I will keep it a nice traditional black and I am going to try to reproduce the lettering above the keyboard in gold leaf. We’ll see how that goes. The sanding is done and I used and epoxy-type filler to mold into the shape of trim which was broken. So far so good (scary). Your advice about the oil-based primer is the same as a pro. cabinet maker and the paint-store owner here. Thanks bunches for the good advice.
YoungHouseLove says
No problem! Good luck with everything!
xo,
s
Britney L. says
I decided to repaint furniture for a nursery, because I’m preggers I wondered how dangerous it is to paint while pregnant. I got paint with low “odors” and I wasn’t even worried until my sister pointed out that it my be a bad thing. What do you think??
YoungHouseLove says
I would only use no-VOC paint while prego (from Mythic or Olympic Premium No-VOC). They all have warnings not to use if pregnant otherwise. Unless you have a gas mask of course. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Allison says
First of all, I love your site, everything is so helpful! We have mostly hand-me-downs in our house, so trying to make things “go” has been a challenge. We are moving and putting our two children (boy and girl) in a shared bedroom and I am dying to do a big makeover on their furniture!!! There are three big pieces: a toddler bed, a crib and a changing table. They are all different shades of dark wood. I am going for a beach theme. They are nice pieces of furinture and I am afraid I will ruin them, especially the crib, which was a hand-me-down, but one of the $1000 ones! So can I really just sand them and paint them and they won’t ruin??? I am afraid they are going to look tacky. Opinions???
YoungHouseLove says
If you sand them well and apply thin and even coats following this tutorial (making sure you use oil-based primer first and then following it with baby safe no-VOC paint (like Olympic Premium no-VOC paint) it should work out really well! We painted the top of a dresser for Clara using this method and as long as you go slowly, apply things very thinly, make sure you don’t use water-based primer, and give everything lots of time to dry it should be great! Oh and if you use a sealer use Safecoat Acrylaq, which is non-toxic and great for nursery stuff. Good luck!
xo,
s
Becky says
Hi there,
New to your blog, but I love it! and I’m hooked! I have a question, I have 4 peices of furniture waiting on me to over come my fears and paint them… I’ve only used spray paint until now and have not loved the results. One of the peices is painted and chipping. I assume that I will need to strip that one and sand then oil base prime and then latex paint? Two of the peices are stained and most likely have a poly or shiny coat, do I just scuff the shiny up and then prime and paint? Ok, the last peice looks bad! It looks like it was painted a cream color and then someone tried to stain it right over the paint! I’m thinking it also needs to be stripped? Please Help!! Thanks so much!
Becky
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, we’ve had the same experience with spray paint and furniture (it just doesn’t last and look as good as primer and paint that’s applied with a roller or brush). For that one piece that’s chipping, you’re right to guess that you should sand or strip it (might get away with not stripping if you sand well) and then oil-base prime and latex paint it. As for the shiny pieces, yup- just sand them to scuff them up and then prime/paint. As for that last piece, as long as it’s not cracked or peeling you just need to sand it to rough it up and then use oil-based primer on it. That will block anything from coming through. The paint it and you should be all set!
xo,
s
Becky says
Me again! sorry to bug you!
I went to home depot and got my supplies, and when I got home I started to scuff some of the peices up and I got nervous about lead. Should I check to see if anything I’m scuffing up has lead in the finish? And should I be wearing a mask?
Thanks again,
Becky
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yes! Didn’t know they were old. If they are, you can grab a lead testing kit for a few bucks (maybe $4) at Lowe’s or Home Depot and after you test it will likely be negative and then you can sand away. If it’s positive I would google around to see what to do (we had an old chair we thought would be positive but it was luckily negative- whew). Good luck!
xo,
s
RICK says
PUTTING BLACK AND WHITE CHECERBOARD TILE ON KITCHEN FLOOR.CHINA CABINET IS OAK TABLE AND CHAIR ARE WOOD OAK.BUT WANT TO MATCH THE FLOOR.WHAT COLOR OR WHAT I CAN USE TO CHANGE LOOKS
YoungHouseLove says
You can always paint the table white and do black chairs with it (along with a white china cabinet)! Or do them all white or all black since you want them to go with the floor. You also could stain them all a rich chocolate color since that looks great with checkerboard floor tile too. Good luck!
xo,
s
Erin says
So I need some help! Worked all weekend on painting chairs and a table and the poly does not look good. The table looks great but the chairs don’t. Is there anyway to fix it? I think I didn’t apply it thin enough.
Thanks for your help,
Erin
YoungHouseLove says
Wait for it to fully cure (at least until morning) and then sand it down with high grit paper (150+ grit) and see if it looks better. You might want to apply one very very thin coat of paint and then (optional) a few thin coats of poly. Remember to let everything dry between coats. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Brooke says
Love your blog and all your amazing projects. For the first time in many years, I just tackled a furniture painting project. I used your guide–it was incredibly helpful, so thanks!
I have a question about zero-VOC paint. I used Olympic zero-VOC paint from Lowe’s and have been rather horrified at how it has turned out. I primed, let it dry for many days, sanded carefully and wiped away any debris. I painted in very thin coats to avoid any globs and let it dry for 24 hrs between coats. But the paint seems to be sticky and does not go on very evenly. The resulting texture is full of little bumps–of course I want it smooth, but even paintbrush streaks would be delightful compared to the ugly bumpy texture I’m seeing. My guess is that it really is the paint (not air bubbles, debris, or not letting it fully dry), although perhaps there is some other explanation that I haven’t considered. I know that zero-VOC paint typically requires more coats (I applied 5) and that suggests to me that the texture problem really has something to do with the uneven coverage and consistency of the paint. Have you ever experienced this with zero-VOC paint? Is this just how it is, or could it just be the brand I used? Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
YoungHouseLove says
Oh man, so sorry to hear that. Could you be painting over oil-based paint? If your walls are painted with that then latex paint won’t sit well on it (and can bubble and peel and remain tacky). Water-based no-VOC primer won’t help when it comes to that (you’d need to sand it flat and use oil-based primer followed by the same latex paint). Feel free to ask the paint pros at your local home improvement center for more info and good luck!
xo,
s
Brooke says
I don’t think it’s the primer. I used oil-based primer (as suggested in your guide-thanks for the tip!) and it was quite smooth to the touch and very dry when I began to paint. I have now found a similar complaint in the reviews for the paint on the Lowe’s website, and I’ve heard from several people that when they have painted with zero-VOC it stays tacky and never dries. Luckily, mine dries, and as for the texture, I guess I’ll live with it for now. I’m going to apply a couple of coats of Safecoat to seal it so hopefully it will at least be smooth to the touch and won’t get tacky. I think the texture wouldn’t be so noticeable on walls but is pretty glaring on my bookcase. I will definitely ask about this problem the next time I am in the paint section at the store! Thanks for the response!
YoungHouseLove says
Oh man so sorry! Our walls are very smooth with the use of the same paint (it was the eggshell finish if that helps). Good luck with everything!
xo,
s
Sam W. says
I followed these steps for a dresser I painted white, and after the first coat of water-based poly, it turned amber. Not sure what I did wrong! I begrudgingly sanded the poly off, put another coat of white on, and used a spray top coat to give it some protection. Not the laquered look I was going for but better than amber.
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, was it the same exact water based poly (by name?). Others can yellow, so if you used another brand that would probably be why. Even the one we mentioned by name can yellow if it’s applied too thickly. You really want it as thin as an eggshell or a piece of paper. Hope it helps! And so glad the spray top coat worked out thought!
xo,
s
Mimi says
Hi,
Thanks for the tutorial. It is so helpful! I’ve read elsewhere that you should sand between coats. What do you recommend?
YoungHouseLove says
We don’t because we recommend applying paint thinly and evenly (which usually eliminates the need). Feel free to do that if you’d like though!
xo,
s
Alison says
I’m looking for the same chairs as the one in your pic, but the ones I’ve found have not gotten such great reviews because they scratch easily. Did you find that poly makes them less scratchable? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Ours look great painted and poly’d, so yes, I’d say it adds protection and scratch resistance if you apply it thinly and evenly and let it thoroughly dry (although if someone keyed them they’d probably scratch either way). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Pat Allen says
I am learning so much about painting furniture. Keep up the great information coming! I have an old jelly cabinet or antique pantry that I want to paint. It looks like it was previously painted white/lt. yellow years ago and has been sanded all over to create a sort of white wash effect. I am updating my kitchen and want to paint it a deep turquoise color to make it “pop.” Turquoise is also my accent color. What steps should I take to paint the cabinet? Should I take the door and hardware off before painting? What about painting the inside a slightly different shade of turquoise? Thanks so much for your help. Pat
YoungHouseLove says
Painting the inside a slightly lighter shade of turquoise sounds gorgeous! We would leave the door on and just tape off the hardware to keep it from getting paint on it. Then just prime the whole thing, paint the inside the lighter tone, and paint the outside the deeper tone (following the steps of this tutorial). Good luck!
xo,
s
Alex says
Hi,
I’ve been reading your blog since day one and it’s the first and last site I visit everyday. I’ve just recently moved into my own place and want to tackle repainting an old black desk to a super high gloss turquoise. Do you have any recommendations on how to get it high gloss (Jonathan Adler/Ceramic animal shiny)?
Also, any great online sources to look for fun accessories?
Thanks so much and can’t WAIT for the book.
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, maybe try following this process but instead of the poly you can use some sort of spray on high gloss varnish. I’ve heard good things about them so just check out the spray paint aisle at the home improvement store and look for something that’s really high gloss. The key will be to very carefully apply thin and even coats (anything even remotely thick will look drippy and gross). So a bunch of thing coats with drying time is a lot better than one or two thick and goopy ones. Good luck! Oh and as for a fun accessory source online, maybe try etsy.com and zgallerie.com and westelm.com along with places like nextag.com (where you can search multiple sites for a specific term)? Oh and amazon.com is always fun. Good luck!
xo,
s
Christina says
Thank you so much, I’ve been searching for a spelled out tutorial! My question-I’m wanting to paint an entryway table black. I would like it to be shiny/glossy, so my question is-would you still prime with an oil-based primer, use semi-gloss in black and then the Minwax water-based poly in clear gloss like you mentioned for the white? I guess, simply–would you keep the routine the same for a black table as you do for white or are there any steps/products you would change up? Thanks a million!
YoungHouseLove says
Yup! Same thing! Good luck.
xo,
s
Monty4uga says
Hi! Just enjoying reading your blog as I attempt to paint my first piece of furniture (a dining chair I found near a dumpster). I used “liquid sand” (deglosser) on it first and will attempt the primer and paint (as you advise) tomorrow. I didn’t see if you mentioned liquid sander….any thoughts on it as opposed to regular sanding? It seemed way too easy to really work. Also, any opinions about high gloss finishes for a dining chair (to be used in an office)? Also, do I need a specific color of primer, depending on the paint color I suggest? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
We always try to avoid chemicals when we can, so that’s why we sand by hand or just go to oil-based primer instead of the liquid sanding deglossers, but I’m sure they work since others use them. It’s just a personal preference thing. As for high gloss finishes for a dining chair to be used in an office- sounds gorgeous! As for the primer, color doesn’t matter that much (we’ve used white primer when painting something black and it’s just fine) but make sure it’s stain-blocking (oil is best, even though it’s super fumey, but you can use something low or no-VOC if you prefer).
xo,
s
Angela says
I’m painting my furniture and i think i want to do white. i have a bigger room though, with light blue walls. would it still look good?
YoungHouseLove says
So pretty! Go for it!
xo,
s
Jennifer says
Thanks so much for the wonderful tutorial – – it gave me the confidence to refinish an adorable side table purchased on craigslist in a robin egg’s blue for my son’s nursery. I was overall really pleased with the result, but did find it challenging to keep brush strokes to a minimum, even with thin coats. If I went too thin, I couldn’t keep the paint wet enough to blend everything together. So my question is, do you recommend a certain brand and/or size of brush (I used Purdy from Home Depot)? And any other tips on minimizing brush strokes (other than sticking to the high-quality materials you detailed here?) Maybe painting just takes a little more practice than I thought…but I want to get it right before I take on a master bedroom wardrobe. Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
A 2″ angled brush like the Purdy is a great choice (if yours was a 2″ angled one). For those with brush stroke issues we also recommend a thin foam roller (no brush strokes possible with that think!) just be sure to keep your applications thin and even. Good luck with that wardrobe!
xo,
s
angie says
Hi!!!
thanks so much for the great info. I’ve just recently been looking for a desk, went to PB and after picking myself up off of the floor when I saw the price, I stumbled onto Anna White, knockoffwood.com. She has soooo many plans on simple furniture to make yourself, needless to say, your info is greatly appreciated. I hope you don’t mind, I would like to post on my blog, newly started, so other novice woodworkers can use the tips….
thanks so much, angie b, southern ca
YoungHouseLove says
Sure! Thanks for the link love! And we love Ana-White. Such an awesome resource. We built our console roughly off of her plans and it turned out really well!
xo,
s
Kay says
Thank you for this. I am doing the same, but with black paint versus white. Did you sand in between and if so, what grit paper did you use? Thank you in advance.
YoungHouseLove says
I didn’t but you can (thin and even coats help with not having to sand). If you do, using something high grit (around 150+) is probably your best bet. Good luck!
xo,
s
Maria says
I just discovered your blog and am slowly devouring all the past entries. Do you guys have any experience with painting butcher block? I have a round table with two drop leaves, the top is pale butcher block and the bottom pedestal is some sort of solid wood. I love the table but hate the color.
Thanks!
Maria
YoungHouseLove says
We haven’t done that but bet that it can be done! Maybe just google around for tips? It’s wood, so I bet if you sand it to get the seal off and then prime & paint it you’ll hopefully be good to go. Good luck!
xo,
s
Olivia says
Thanks for this post. It’s really helpful! I am preparing for my first painted furniture project over here, and I’m wondering whether I can use the same paint I used on my walls to paint a piece of furniture (I used Sherwin Williams Super Paint)? Or is there special paint just for furniture? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Sure, just grab the right primer!
xo,
s
Olivia says
Thank you! One more question: I am curious what brand of paint and primer you use for furniture projects, like for the table in this post?
YoungHouseLove says
I used Glidden Off The Shelf white paint I think. Now I like Olympic No-VOC off the shelf white (since it’s more pure). As for the primer, oil-based Kilz is great (or no-VOC “Clean Start” Kilz if you don’t want fumes, although it’s less amazing than the oil-based stuff, which is recommended by the pros).
xo,
s
tiffany george says
Ok can you paint over Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish in “Clear Gloss” as long as I do a light sanding, or is it way to smooth/slick and so I need to strip it instead, I hope you say all it needs is a little sanding!!! I am wanting to repaint my tv unit that I just painted last year BOOOOO, I wish I was ok with the color.
Thank You, you guys are great!!!!!!!!!!!!!
YoungHouseLove says
I would do a thorough sanding with 60 grit paper followed by 150 grit stuff to smooth it out after you strip off the gloss with the rough stuff. Then follow that with primer and then paint. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
PL says
Hi just found your site – it’s great! Love this tutorial.
We just recently bought a secondhand old style baby cradle (like the wooden cradles from the 1960s/1970s). It is wooden and painted white but we were thinking to repaint it to make it look new and lovely. It looks like just a thin coat of paint over the original wood because you can still see the wood texture. There isn’t really any paint chipping away anywhere. Do you think we would need to sand this before priming and repainting? Also the bars of the cradle are made with decorative wooden posts so are kind of bumpy (sorry don’t know how to describe it well!) so would these be difficult to sand? Also, because a baby will be sleeping in it, should we definitely use no-VOC primer and paint? Does it matter if it is water or oil based? Would love your advice. Thanks so much!
YoungHouseLove says
I actually wouldn’t sand it at all because it could be lead paint (which is best to just leave and prime and paint over unless it’s chipping). So I’d just use Kilz Clean Start primer (it’s no-VOC) and then add on no-VOC paint (like Olympic Premium). Then it’s optional whether you want to seal it with SafeCoat Acrylacq or not (you might have to order it online as it’s hard to find in stores, but store poly like Miinwax isn’t non-toxic for babies so it should be avoided whenever you can. Good luck!
xo,
s
Julie says
your blog is so inspiring, and i think you could help me with a little problem. my fiance and i are expecting our first child next month and i am trying to get the nursery together. against my better judgement i ordered a dresser in “antique white” and it is way creamier than the white dresser i am trying to match it with. for a few reasons, sanding and repainting just isn’t going to happen. through you and others i have heard a lot about rustoleum universal spray paint. do you think this would work well on a dresser that is painted and seems to have a seeled surface? also, are there any spray seelants to protect against the toxins and fumes? thanks so much for any help and advice you can throw our way!!
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, if the dresser is glossy or sealed you’ll want to sand it (do a lead test first if it’s old) or use some sort of stripping agent (ask about what’s recommended at the hardware store) and then use stainblocking primer like Kilz (which can be applied in spray form, although it’s less foolproof than being rolled on with a small foam brush). Then you can spray on paint, but again, rolling with a foam roller thinly and evenly is more foolproof, especially for beginners. As for spray sealants that seal fumes, I’m not sure- maybe ask at the home improvement store? Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Brent says
Nice article on painting furniture. My father recently painted a bathroom cabinet and used polyeurathane enamel in a automotive type paint sprayer. It cuts the brush or roller stroke issues and it is very durable as well. Just thought you might want the info for your site.
Brent
YoungHouseLove says
Thanks for the tip! We’ll have to check it out!
xo,
s
Aga says
I’m refinishing this antique bed and I started the stripping process. Do I still have to use the primer or I can skip it and just use latex paint with the primer and sealer in it? I got the paint at Home Depot and was told I don’t need the coat of primer since the paint already has it. What would you recommend?
Thanks,
Aga
YoungHouseLove says
That could work but it’s risky. Typically that primer is better for blocking color from coming through behind it on the wall (ex: painting over a red wall) but it’s not as good at blocking wood bleed or creating a strong foundation for paint (so you don’t experience cracking and peeling down the line). If you’re worried about durability I’d def. use a primer like Kilz over the two-in-one stuff.
xo,
s
Nimi says
You guys are the best!!! Your information was really thorough….better than the EHOW videos online. Quick question….how much should we sand the furniture? I have an ikea TV stand and would like to color it white from black-brown. Do i still need to sand it or can I just spray the primer and paint over it? It does have the smooth semi-glossy look. Please help.
Thanks a million!
YoungHouseLove says
Ikea stuff can be laminate (not wood) so google “how to paint laminate” for tips on that. I don’t think sanding laminate is the way to go. Good luck!
xo,
s
Ann says
Hi!
I have a kitchen table and I want to paint the base black. It is white now. The top is already varnish in a walnut finish and I’ll keep that.
Couple questions:
1. My son swings his feet and has marred the current base (that’s the reason I am painting it black!). What can I do to make the base extra durable..should I add anything beyond what you have suggested?
2. OK to go with satin finish paint and poly? Don’t want it too shiny.
thanks!!! Lovin the website. Ann
YoungHouseLove says
Just following these steps (and using your satin finish paint and poly)should be awesome. Thin and even coats are key with lots of drying time in between and after (let it cure and it’ll be nice and durable for the long term!).
xo,
s
Aga says
Thank you so much for your quick answer to my question about the primer for my bed. I’ll put the primer first for sure.
But now I have another question. I just got an end table witch is in very good shape and I hate to take the finish (a lot of work and I also like the color) but I wanted to add a black glaze to it to make it more interesting and a little less outdated. The table has a little orange-brown stain and probably poly on it. I also want to lightly send it at the end to make it look old. Where should I start and what to put on it at the end to make it more durable?
Thanks a lot! And I love your site, very helpful!
Aga
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, I’ve never used a glaze but I think you might have to strip the poly (gently sand it) so the glaze will “take.” Maybe try asking at your home improvement center or paint depot? Good luck!
xo,
s
Margaux says
Hi! This looks great. My husband and I paint all our furniture white. In fact, since we’ve been following you (and we just started a few days ago :)) we’ve discovered how much we have in common. We have a (actually 3) chihuahuas, we do everything ourselves and we have our first baby on the way :) I have officially become obsessed with your blog. Anyhoo, thanks for posting this and other really interesting articles. Josh and Margaux
YoungHouseLove says
Aw thanks for the kind words. So glad you found our blog. And good luck with your little one on the way! Burger sends his love to your three little four-legged guys (or gals).
xo,
s
Tanya says
I painted a coffee table using your tecnique. But I sanded down the top and stained the top and painted the legs and side white. Then I put the poly you recommend on the piece of furniture. The poly is ;eeling off the top. (done about 2 months ago) The legs and side that are painted are just fine.
Was I wrong in putting the poly on stained top? If so, can I sand off the poly and use something else to protect the top?
Thanks
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, there’s a possibility the type of stain you used “reacted” to the poly you used. Maybe check the label of the stain to see what poly they recommend (since you don’t have to worry about it yellowing like you would with a white painted top) and just use whatever poly the stain can recommends? Hopefully sanding the peeling poly and resealing it with something meant for the stain will do the trick!
xo,
s
Jackie Clifford says
I am currently working on an old oak kitchen table. I have already sanded, just stained, and now the next step is to apply the final poly finish. Do you have a suggestion or recommendation that will help protect the table from wear besides just doing poly? How many coats? And do you like satin, semi or gloss for the finish? This table also comes with chairs that we are finsihing with stain and paint. Thanks for your help!
YoungHouseLove says
I would look on the stain can that you used and go with the poly they recommend (some poly conflict and peel over stain that’s not compatible). As for the finish, that’s up to you. Satin is nice. And for number of coats and stuff, just follow the directions on the poly. Good luck!
xo,
s
Robin says
Hi Sherry, Thanks so much for this blog. I have 4 dressers, a dining room table, and 3 end tables that I want to tackle painting. So with such a large quantity, my first thought was, “should I invest in a sander and a paint sprayer?” I have an indoor area that is OK to spray in.
Wondered if you ever tried using equipment or if you have always done by hand. I read somewhere that if you get a sander, use one that is 8400 bit to avoid swirl marks and gouging the wood. And I understand it is critical to have very thin coats instead heavy coats of paint. I have never painted furniture, but thinking I could practice on my less important piece of furniture first (end table.)
Lastly, I was assuming that the more expensive low VOC paint would work just as well as regular latex paint. But don’t know if they have a poly that doesn’t smell so much. Thanks for you advice! Robin
YoungHouseLove says
Spraying is typically hard for beginners (drips and inconsistencies are an issue) so I always recommend using the foam roller and very thin coats if you can. As for sanding, I have used a sander a few times, but sometimes by hand is all you need to rough things up and you don’t have to worry about gouged wood or swirl marks. As for paint, any latex paint should work- just keep it thin and even and let it dry thoroughly. Good luck!
xo,
s
Kristi says
Hey! I’m so glad I found this site! My hubby and I are doing our first DIY project, and it’s a big one:) we bought a table and chairs and are refinishing then(attempting). We sanded, painted (spray), distressed with sandpaper in a few spots, then topped with the poly you suggested. My problem Is this: when we went to distress… It left in the white powder, we used the tack cloth like we were supposed to, and now it is all streaky:( we thought if we put the poly on, it would get better but it did not- any suggestions or what we are not doing correct?!? Help!!!!!
YoungHouseLove says
So sorry, I have no clue. Maybe try bringing a chair with you to the paint shop (the folks at Benjamin Moore are really smart) and asking them what they recommend? We’ve never had that issue. Good luck!
xo,
s
Wendy L says
This is a great tutorial! I’m going to paint a very old and ugly lateral file cabinet. I’m going to use spray paint after sanding and priming since that’s what most of the blogosphere recommends. I’d like to place stuff on top of the cabinet too. Do you think I should go over it with polycrilic? Would that even work on metal?
Thanks! Love your blog!
Rachel says
Hi there! We love your blog! :) We recently bought two all wood bar stools and table/chairs super cheap on craigslist. We are trying to repaint them. We have followed the directions on the blog so far…sand, prime with oil based primer, paint with latex paint. The problem we are having is with brush strokes. We can’t get rid of them! Is this due to how we are painting or the quality of brushes or both? Can you give some painting techniques and do you recommend any particular brand of brushes?
Thanks,
Rachel
YoungHouseLove says
It could be either one. I would definitely go with either a high quality 2″ angled brush like Purdy along with super thin and even coats or even try a small foam roller (one of those mini ones that’s around 4″ wide). You also want to wait until one coat is completely dry (at least an hour or two) between coats so it doesn’t get gummy and thick. Good luck!
xo,
s
Alison says
I have a hand-me-down dresser and headboard from my parents that I’d like to paint for my daughter’s “big girl room”. I want a very shiny, glossy, stand-out look to both pieces and I’ve heard of lacquer paint being used for that effect. Do you think the semi-gloss paint and poly finish will be enough to give me that look or are you familiar with lacquer techniques? I’ll admit that I don’t know enough about lacquer to know if it’s possible or safe and I’m having a hard time finding information online. Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
I have heard that laquering things yourself is close to impossible if you’re not a pro (we haven’t attempted it) but we’d probably just use high gloss paint and a high gloss poly. That should be nice and shiny!
xo,
s