Whether you’re interested in painting a chair, a table, or any other wooden piece of furniture, the steps are pretty much the same.
Take this table that we built and subsequently painted along with the accompanying white chairs (which used to be a golden blond wood tone).
Sprucing things up with a fresh coat of white paint took them from thrift store (where we got the table base) to Pottery Barn (which sells a similar version of it for 500 beans) in just a few hours.
But enough jibber-jabber. On with the how-to deets:
Step 1- Evaluate the surface of the piece that you’d like to paint. If it’s a sleek glossy surface (like varnished or sealed wood) you’ll want to gently sand the entire piece with 100 grit sandpaper). If it’s more of a dry chalky texture (like unfinished wood or flat paint) you can forgo the sandpaper and skip right to step two.
Step 2- Break out the oil-based primer to ensure that the paint sticks and no stains come through and ruin your finish (we’ve also used Zinsser Smart Prime with great success, which is a low-VOC stain-blocking primer that’s not oil-based – so it’s less stinky). Give the entire piece a good once over with a small foam roller or a paint brush. This coat of primer doesn’t have to be perfectly even in tone (it’ll probably look thinner in some areas since that’s how primer rolls) but as long as the entire piece is well covered – and it’s not too gloppy and thick – it’s ready for step three once it dries.
Step 3- Use a fresh small foam roller or paint brush to apply two thin and even coats of latex paint (a semi-gloss finish is usually best since it’s nice a wipe-able and durable choice). Many people mistakenly think that latex paint isn’t supposed to be applied over oil-based primer, but the real painting no-no is applying latex paint over oil-based paint, which is a guaranteed bubble-fest and should be avoided at all costs. And a word about small foam rollers vs. brushes: according to experts, all rollers – especially if used too quickly- may rile up the paint and lead to bubbles while paint brushes are the most bubble free application method known to man (although you might have brush stroke issues if the paint isn’t applied thinly enough or given ample drying time between coats).
We painted the table above with a paint brush, not a roller. But we have also used small foam rollers with great success, so those are actually our recommended choice for beginners since they cut down on brush strokes or drippy finishes and seem to be the most error proof. No matter what you use, be sure to wait until the first coat of paint is thoroughly dry before applying a second coat (each coat should be applied super lightly and evenly – aim for the thickness of an eggshell or a piece of paper). This thin application is the key to avoiding brush strokes or roller marks for a smooth, gorgeous finish. Repeat after me: three or even four super thin coats are far better than one or two thick and drippy ones!
Step 4- This step is optional, so think of it as extra credit. Brushing on two thin and even coats of water-based poly for wipe-able protection that really goes the extra mile (and provides a glossy oh-so-luxe sheen) can’t hurt if you pick the right stuff. The only two brands that we’ve ever used with unmatched success are these two, so they’re our strong recommendation (other types can yellow or crack over time):
- Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish in “Clear Gloss” (found at any home improvement center)
- Safecoat Acrylacq (which is a low-VOC, non-toxic alternative sold at eco boutiques or online at places like greendepot.com)
We went the extra mile and applied poly to our white table above for a bit of added protection, and we even thinly polyed the chairs since they need to be just as easy to wipe down due to their proximity to food whenever we dine in the sunroom. Thin is definitely the operative word, and again you’ll want to be sure to let the first coat thoroughly dry before going in for the second. Any time you go over semi-wet paint or poly to smooth things out you’ll get terrible drag marks, so work from one side to the other and never go back over things until they’re completely dry.
Step 5- Wait at least a full 72 hours to place objects on your newly painted piece to avoid dents or divots in your finish. If you really want to be on the safe side, we’d recommend waiting five full days. Sometimes factors like humidity and primer/paint/poly thickness can keep things from fully curing up, and you don’t want to get indents from using your newly painted piece too quickly. Waiting this long might take some willpower because you’re dying to sit on/eat on/enjoy your brand new piece, but it’s worth the wait. Promise.
Easy, right? Ok, those were a lot of words, so it might sound complicated. But just take things one step at a time. And remember to breathe. You can totally do it. There’s really no reason to live with wood furniture that’s not exactly the tone or the shade that you’d like. So from painting an old side table a handsome glossy black to giving a scratched up wooden chair a cheerful red tone, it’s definitely a project that you can confidently tackle in an afternoon. Go forth and paint something!
*Oh and it bears noting that if your furniture item is anything other than solid wood or veneered wood (like laminate, melamine, etc) you should visit your local hardware store and ask the paint pro there what they recommend for that surface. There are some great oil-based primers and enamel paints out there (which are changing all the time) so it might be possible to get a great result. The key is really roughing up the surface so it’s less glossy and then priming and painting with the best stuff they have (usually oil or enamel based).Good luck!
Psst- In the market for a quick cabinet painting tutorial? Look no further.
Psssst- Wondering how to paint a brick fireplace? Wonder no more.
Pssssssst- Itching to paint wood paneling? Try this.
Brynn says
Hello from Germany! We live in an old building with solid wood door frames and doors and I would love to repaint them from a beige to a crisp white. Would this work on them and would I need to keep an eye on anything specific? Also, would this work on Ikea Billy bookcases?
Thanks and I love your blog!
Brynn
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yes, this would work on wood door frames and doors (just prime them with stainblocking primer and paint them – using a brush on the door frames and a small foam roller on the doors). As for the Billy bookcase, those are laminate, so it’s not the same as wood. I would ask at the paint desk what they’d recommend for that. Good luck!
xo,
s
Carin says
I just found this site while searching for tips on repainting furniture. I’m already excited to read more on the site! Thanks for sharing your ideas and pictures.
Joan says
I just painted 2 coats of Latex Enamel Undercoater (white and not tinted) on 2 dressers that were vintage pieces that I had bought and had stripped to bare wood years ago. I intend to paint them with a semi-gloss Kitchen and Bath Enamel in a light Glazed Pear color. These products were suggested by the salesman at the paint store since I had no idea what to use. The wood does have slight scratches and knicks with a few a bit too deep to sand down. I lightly sanded before using the primer. Do I need to lightly sand again before painting them. I would really like to skip this but will do it if you think it is necessary. I don’t see any drips of paint, etc. I wish I had found your site before…Thanks! Joan
YoungHouseLove says
If you don’t see spots like drips that need sanding and it looks smooth you can probably skip it! Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Molly says
Hey!
I just googled how to paint a wood dresser and found this site. It looks like such a great step by step that I am excited to try. However, I am so new at all of this, only in college. How do I know if I need to sand? Also, do I paint inside the drawers or what? Since it is a dresser is the final extra credit step needed?
Thank you so much for putting this information up again for me the beginner!
Have a great day!
YoungHouseLove says
I would definitely not paint the inside of the drawers and I would just use primer and semi-gloss paint (no poly) – use a small foam roller to apply it. If it’s super shiny (like the top of a credit card) you’ll need to sand, but if it’s rough (like a piece of construction paper) you don’t. Good luck!
xo,
s
Libby says
Hi- hope you can help me, because I am SUPER frustrated right now. A month ago, my parents took my 1 and 3 year old for the week, so I thought I’d tackle the large project of sanding down and painting our kitchen table (its an old family table!) A month later, we are STUCK!
I followed your blog exactly… except for using exterior grade latex paint for the color (we painted it black.) The guy at Home Depot promised me that the Exterior grade would hold up better, and I wouldn’t need a poly coat. After struggling to get a nice paint finish on the table (thats a whole other story), we let the paint “cure” for 5 days. Thought that would be enough. Nope. Just wiping it with a dry rag wiped off paint. My kids of course touched it and left marks, so we decided we probably should try to do a poly coat.
When we did the poly coat, it was supper bubbly, and ended up having to sand the poly off- which then required 2 more coats of black paint to get it looking nice because when we sanded the poly, the paint came off too!
Just tried painting the poly again tonight, and it looked HORRIBLE. I’ve now tried both a brush and a roller. I honestly don’t know what I’m doing wrong. We live in a tiny town house, and my kitchen has been compromised with this table project for a month and its STRESSING ME OUT! any suggestions on what to try next?????
YoungHouseLove says
Oh man, I’m so sorry for all your troubles! Honestly I truly believe it’s the exterior paint. If you did everything else according to our method, that is the only thing that makes sense as being a deviant factor. So sorry you got that advice, but I can totally see how it might not cure as well (it’s inside, not outside with the same ventilation). I would sand it all the way down if you can- straight to the wood. Then use exactly these products: 1) Zinsser Smart Prime 2) Benjamin Moore Advance Paint in Satin (mixed to the color of your choice). No poly is necessary with that method, and it’s what we used to paint our cabinets in the office and kitchen, which look great and stand up to beatings! I would apply it with an angled brush just to get into cracks but roll over it all with a small foam roller (about 4″ wide). Thin and even is key! Good luck!
xo,
s
jason gallagher says
Its so nice that you respond to comments on an article that is over a year old. Thank you, you have inspired me to try painting.
Quick question. Im confused on the paint and polycrylic relationship.
Polycrylic like miniwax is mostly used for a protectant correct? How much of it will make up for a flatter paint. Is another reason to gloss the piece up?
For example if I want to paint a piece of furniture and i know I want a smooth glass but not shiny sheen, do I:
Use a paint that is flat then rely on the polycrylic in a Gloss, or Semi-Gloss to give it a nice glass like sheen?
Or do I need to pick a semi gloss latex paint from the beginning and then go with a Polycrylic gloss or semi gloss on top.
And now that Im typing what happens when you apply a satin based PolyCyrlic to a gloss, or semi-gloss latex paint job to a piece of furniture. Does it dull it.
Thanks again.
YoungHouseLove says
I would do flat paint and semi-gloss poly (of the type we recommended since some others don’t perform as well). It’ll give you a cleaner less dull look.
xo,
s
Sarah says
Hi Sherry,
So I Googled “painting furniture,” clicked on the first link that came up, and was reading through the how-to when I noticed I was looking at a picture of my backyard and patio! So odd! Actually, it’s happened more than once; you’re all over piterest. Like I said when we bought your home, I love your style and all the work you put into this house. And judging by your following, so does everyone else!
Take Care,
Sarah
YoungHouseLove says
Haha- that’s so funny! We have a book coming out this fall so our first house (aka: your house) will end up in there too a few times! Haha. So glad you guys are taking care of our first love!
xo,
s
Tania says
I apologize if this has already been asked. My husband and I don’t know much about painting. We had some end tables that were painted black that we wanted to paint green. I would not describe the tables as glossy, but not sure that they were flat paint either, maybe somewhere in the middle (meaning I am not sure if we need to complete step 1 of your directions).
So my husband put primer on them and then we attempted to paint them with some leftover flat paint a week later so the primer had plenty of time to dry. As the paint went on it “pulled up” the primer to expose the black underneath in certain spots.
I checked the primer and nothing on the can that I can find says if it is oil based or water based, although the the first ingredient listed is water. How can you tell what type of primer it is?
We did not even finish applying the green paint. At this point, do we need to sand the tables? Or can we just paint over with an oil based primer, as I am now guessing ours is a water based primer? And do you think the primer is the problem? Or that we did not sand the tables?
Thanks so much for any help you can give a true painting novice.
Much Thanks,
Tania
YoungHouseLove says
If the first ingredient listed is water it’s definitely water based. I would wait for everything to fully dry (a few more days) then sand, use oil-based stainblocking primer like Kilz or Zinsser and then let that dry and follow it with semi-gloss paint if you’re not going to poly (flat paint isn’t very easily wipeable, so it’s only great if you’ll be following that with poly). Good luck!
xo,
s
Jim says
Thanks for the great tips! I tried to refinish an old bookcase which turned out to be particleboard. Sanded. Primed. 2 coats of semi-gloss. It all looks fine…except for the top, which will be very visible. The top has one water-mark (cos I didn’t get it in out of the rain fast enough after the first coat of paint). More troublesome are the brush strokes and the areas where the paint is not evenly distributed.
What can I do now to get the top smooth and without brush strokes? I assume sand & add another light coat, but… how long should I wait before sanding? What weight sandpaper should I use? And most importantly, should I use a brush or a roller to get that smooth look? What kind of brush or roller would work best in this situation? And lastly, what technique should I use to avoid brush strokes in future? Thanks for your help.
YoungHouseLove says
Yes, I’d sand and use a small foam roller, which will add paint thinly and evenly. I would use 150 grit sandpaper. Good luck!
xo,
s
Jim says
…And it turned out great! Thanks so much for your help. What a great site this is!
Jim
YoungHouseLove says
So glad! Congrats!
xo,
s
Sherry says
I just bought a oak buffet (low china cabinet) with the intentions of painting it white. My huband thinks it’ll look terrible because of oak’s grain. Any tips or suggestions?
YoungHouseLove says
I would use a good primer (like Zinsser Smart Prime) and a great self leveling paint like Benjamin Moore Advance! Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Stephanie says
I just wanted you guys to know that I have credited you on my new blog (and will probably continue to in the future!). My first project, which I will write about tomorrow, was taking a $10 rocking chair frame and changing it into a usable (and cute!) chair for my new house. I followed you directions and advise off of the sunroom chairs/cafe set entry. So THANK YOU! I come to your site all the time in anticipation of this new home (which I just closed on Friday).
YoungHouseLove says
Aw, so glad! Congrats and happy blogging!
xo,
s
Mandy says
i know this article is older but it’s still so relevant! i will be painting a storage bench and turning it into a window bench by painting it, stuffing it and covering it with fabric!
thank you!
Monique Baskett says
I ran across your website via a google search. I am in the process of trying to paint an unfinished entryway bench. Solid pine. I went to my Benjamin Moore paint supply store and I was given and oil based primer to use on the first two layer. and for the top coat Benjamin Moore Imp black high gloss latex enamel. Black paint was added to the primer to give it the dark gray tint. I waited 2 days to begin painting. I have sanded and painted between every layer of primer and paint. I was told to paint it with the brush and then roll it out. It looked dull and glossy throughout. My bench looks horrible. My husband has suggested that I remove all of the previous layers of paint and primer and start all over again. I am to the point of calling in a professional. Any suggstions other than my husbands will do (Smile).
YoungHouseLove says
I would sand with a lower grit paper (150) just to get it all roughed up but not get through all the primer and then use a small foam roller to apply your paint very thinly and evenly (no sanding between coats). Good luck!
xo,
s
anna says
Hi,
I am especially interested in your tutorial because the piece you’ve repainted was part black at one point.
I am repainting black chairs a blue colour and am wondering how much sanding I need to do. Should I sand away all of the black?Or, is sanding just to create a rougher surface for primer to stick and a once over is good enough?
Thanks,
Anna
YoungHouseLove says
Just enough to rough it up for primer is great! Be sure its a stain blocking primer and you’re good.
xo,
s
Kristi says
I love your posts and your style! And I am SO glad to see that you are still replying to questions on this post- even years later! I am painting my mother-in-law’s old piano a beautiful cobalt blue to brighten up our music room. I read your instructions and did the exact primer you recommended along with 3 thin coats of a high-quality semi gloss paint (sanding between coats). I have been waiting a full 24 hours between each paint layer because of the darker color of the paint (the guy at the paint store said to do this). The piano looked fabulous (and I probably should have stopped there). I started on the polycrylic to ensure a very durable finish as my kids will be playing this piano. I used the one you recommended but my project has gone downhill. My problem is that the polycrylic is drying so quickly that I can’t get even a small section smoothed out before it starts gumming up. I am painting in my garage so it is a little warm, could this be my problem? The outside temp is within the 60-90 degrees suggested on the container, but probably in the 80s. I tried sanding the day after the first coat but the finish turned very dull and white looking. I am using a high quality brush and following all the suggestions for not getting bubbles in the finish. Are there any other tips for getting a better finish with the polycrylic? I have heard you can thin it with water? I am so sad that the piece looks rough and bumpy and bubbled after all this work. :( Thanks in advance for any help you might be able to offer!
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, I would honesly abandon the poly. You said you sanded everything and it looks dull and white looking, so I would just apply one more coat of paint over everything to hopefully bring it back to its glory and leave it at that. Since you mentioned the paint is semi-gloss, that’s very flexible and durable (and wipe-able) – and it sounds like you’re just having a hard time working with the poly (which can definitely be the hardest to work with) so I’d just skip it since you can try applying it ten times and still not get back to the same look as you had once you finished painting before adding it. Hope it helps!
xo
s
Monique says
Thank you for responding. I will try the 150 sandpaper.
YoungHouseLove says
Good luck Monique!
xo,
s
John says
Great how-to for painting the table, thanks! I’d like to go a step further and paint my daughters bedroom furniture-my concern is that the repeated opening and closing of her drawers will rub off the paint. Do you have any way to prevent this from happening?
Thanks,
John
YoungHouseLove says
The best way to prevent that would be to sand, prime and paint using quality products and thin costs (thick costs drip and crack and peel). Good luck!
xo,
s
Lauren H says
Hi Sherry and John!
I just bought a teaching podium off Craigslist. It will now be in its third generation in the classroom, so it has at least a couple of coats of paint on it. The top coat is either a gloss paint or some kind of sealant–it is verrrry shiny. My questions: 1. What # sandpaper do I need to use for this? How many sheets/what amount should I buy? I’ve read to start with one kind and then use another kind as I go. 2. How do I know when I’m done sanding? I saw you told someone else to “roughen it up”–how do I know when I’ve sanded enough?
Thanks for the help! (And I’m sure my students will thank you so they won’t have to look at this unevenly painted blood red podium…)
YoungHouseLove says
I would use 60 grit paper followed by 200 grit paper to get it smooth (you might need a few sheets of each, so just buying a pack of 6 of each one for a few bucks should do it). Since you mentioned that the paint is gloppy and drippy and there’s some sort of sealant, you’ll know you’re done sanding when it’s no longer super glossy (and looks more matte) and when the glops are sanded down so it’s smooth.
xo,
s
Lauren H says
Oh yes! Two more questions: 3. The podium was hanging out in this lady’s smoky house for a while and it has quite the smoke odor with it. Will sanding and painting it get rid of it? (There are 2 shelves inside it that are unpainted–I guess I should paint those to seal up the smell?) 4. The podium was painted red by some high school art students. The red paint is really uneven and gloppy–some areas have lots and lots of red paint and some are a bit skimpier. It’s definitely not super smooth with the paint. How should I handle these areas with the sandpaper?
Thanks y’all!
YoungHouseLove says
I would wipe it down with vinegar (regular white vinegar) after you sand it. Might want to do this two times and make sure it’s completely dry before priming. As for the gloppy paint, you want to sand down the entire thing so it’s smooth. Any bumps you leave will not be filled in or covered with paint, they’ll only be emphasized – so getting it all smooth before priming or painting is key. Good luck!
xo,
s
Kristina says
I loved this blog! Ive been looking everywhere for a to-the-point tutorial on how to paint furniture. Ive been SANDING and SANDING for the last few weeks. Figures that my first project would be a giant dining room table with lots of grooves. The paint is the hardest part for me. I have latex paint here at the house that painters left behind, and I happened to have bought some latex paint. I bought primer in a spray can. I know that people have been talking about sprayers but I wasnt sure how much of a difference there was betweent he two. Is spray-can paint ok to use? and my primer doesnt mention if its oil-based or anything. I might just go buy a different kind. How do you feel about spray can paint?
YoungHouseLove says
I wouldn’t use spray paint for this project- it could end up drippy and not cure as well as paint thinly applied with a brush or small foam roller, so that would be my advice. I would get the exact materials we recommend here, since it’s the method that works best for us (so we really have had issues deviating and using other stuff). For primer definitely definitely use something oil-based or at least something that says “stainblocking” – otherwise it’s not meant for painting furniture and it’s just meant for priming walls and you’ll get bleed through and basically have to start all over again! Hope it helps!
xo,
s
denj2766 says
I may become a DIYer yet due to your helpful site; thanks.
Two questions:
I’m having a frustrating situation where I’m seeing lines in the paint pattern when the paint dries. It was first noticeable using a Wagner indoor/outdoor sprayer, to which I added a product called Floetrol to thin the latex paint. The result was slightly better. I’m now going back to the brush (a new Purdy that I just bought yesterday), and I’m still getting the same thing: the paint is not drying perfectly seamless or smooth, and I don’t know why. Never had this problem with painting before. I’m in Denver, where we’re experiencing a serious heat wave (104 temps with 4% humidity) and am painting in my garage.
How should the polyurethane look at the end of two hours before putting on a second coat? I used the Minwax product you recommended, albeit the semi-gloss version because I don’t like full gloss, and I’m getting a similar situation as the paint: it’s drying so that you see the brush strokes, not evenly and seamlessly. This is on the back of a hutch I finished painting yesterday morning (so the paint dried for over 24 hours). Having not used poly before, I wanted to test it out on something that won’t be seen (the back of the hutch will be against the wall, of course).
YoungHouseLove says
I would stop adding anything to the paint (can cause issues and we have luck without doing that) and use a small foam roller to apply thin and even coats (no sprayer and just a brush to get into crevices and then roll over everything quickly to smooth it). As for the poly, I would use a small foam roller as well. It helps keep things thin and even and smooth. Good luck!
xo,
s
tracy says
thank you. very helpful
Lisa Gentry says
What kind of oil based primer do you guys prefer for painting furniture? I’m trying to find something that isn’t high VOC. And can you use it on non-sanded furniture to, or only sanded? I was reading about this Zinsser oil based primer than can be used on non-sanded items, but wasn’t sure if it was safe. Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
All oil-based primer is going to have lots of VOCs since oil-based paint is fumey-er. If you want low VOC you can go with an aklyd based primer like Zinsser Smart Prime (we love it, but you should degloss and sand first). Good luck!
xo,
s
Holly says
I’m so glad i stumbled onto this article! I’m moving to New York in August and, being a college student, am going to prowl the free section on craigslist for furniture to stock my apartment. Unfortunately, being free, the furniture probably isn’t going to be the colors i want at first, so painting them with the steps from this article will definitely give me a good project before school starts. Thank you!
Elizabeth says
I have sanded, primed, painted, and polyed 4 different pieces of furniture using YHL’s wonderful instructions and now I’ve decided that I don’t want a red dresser anymore. Would I follow the same steps as before since I put the poly on the dresser too or is there an additional step you would recommend? I love the dresser and don’t want to replace it – just paint it something lighter to match my ever changing decor!
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yes, I’d just sand it down as much as you can and start over.
xo,
s
Tina says
I’m sure the question has been asked, but I don’t have time to read through all the comments to find it…what sheen did you use for the poly? I know there are options of satin, semi-gloss and gloss. Also, does it matter what sheen you use for the paint if you are going to go with a different sheen for the poly (flat sheen for paint, gloss sheen for poly)? Or should they be the same sheen?
YoungHouseLove says
We usually prefer satin, but semi-gloss works too. Gloss is less forgiving (light bounces off every last inconsistency) so we tend to avoid it when we can). Any finish paint can be used with any finish poly. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Elliot says
Loving this page!! I do a fair few bits my self, would be great if you could stop by my page so we can share tips etc. have a look at some of my work on http://www.facebook.com/thefurniturerecyclingshop
I mainly import from France right now and paint up louis XV style furniture from 50’s and am loving it!!!
mameck says
Great tips, your table turned out wonderfully! I’ll belinking.
Valerie says
Hi John and Sherry!
What type(size,brand,etc.) of paint brush would you recommend to paint with for a toddler size table and chairs?
Thank you!
Love love love your blog :)
YoungHouseLove says
I would use a 2″ angled brush (they sell short handled ones at the paint desk at Home Depot and Ben Moore that I like). You could also use a small foam roller to smooth things (aka: no brush strokes).
xo,
s
Allison says
I just started the painting process of some bookshelves that are solid wood. It was recommended that we use a latex based no sand primer for our trim in our house so I figured this would be good for the furniture too. The primer seems to have taken to the wood good, but do you think then the painting will turn out fine? I know that you recommend using an oil based primer so I was not sure how you think this latex based would work? Thanks for you help!
YoungHouseLove says
As long as it’s stainbocking it should be ok (if not, there could be bleed-through, which sometimes takes time to show). Good luck!
xo,
s
Shante' says
HI,
I an new to DIY and LOVE your site. I am preparing to makeover my kitchen table. However, the center is glass and has a round outing that can be removed. Needless to say it has a wood underneath a seemingly light tiled finish topping. If that makes any sense. Anyway, I was looking to spray paint it, but an unsure as to what products will work best. The seemingly tiles surface is peeling away where you can see a form of wood. Can anyone help with this??
YoungHouseLove says
I would go for primer and paint applied with a thin roller and brush to get into those crevices over spray paint. Just follow this tutorial if you can! Good luck!
xo,
s
Melissa says
Would you need to sand a dresser if it’s been stained?
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yes, stain has poly/sealer on top, and you want to rough that up so it’s not slick anymore.
xo,
s
Maria says
Wow. So stoked that you are still answering comments for this oldie, but goodie post.
Quick question: will I still get a glossy finish with poly mentioned above using a flat enamel paint (and oil based primer)?
Home Depot gave me flat enamel paint (in a gorgeous mint color in case you are curious!) instead of semi-gloss and I didn’t notice until I came home! I really want to make sure I get a durable, glossy, slick finish for my bedside table (I put water glasses on it all the time).
Thanks so much!
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yes it’ll be great! Just apply the poly in thin and even coats. Good luck!
xo,
s
Simon Martin says
What a transformation, all that with a lick of paint – noted!
Kassie says
If I could steal your house, I would! :)
Any tips on how to make it look distressed? I’m going to be sprucing up our dining room table and didn’t know where to start. Do I just sand the table randomly after I’ve finished painting it like you’ve explained above?
Thanks! :D
-Kassie
YoungHouseLove says
Yes, I’d use paper of about 200 grit to start (anything too low might take too much off) and see how it goes. Good luck!
xo,
s
Sheryl says
Hi,
We have a table that has been sanded and then painted with two coats of flat acrylic paint. The color was supposed to be the same as the trim in our kitchen, which is Kelly Moore’s Swiss Coffee, (trying to save money by using leftovers!), but someone had put another color in for another project and we..nor the painter..knew. It turned out to be dove gray! It looks dingy in our yellow kitchen with white trim, and I want to re-paint it. I love white/creamy and a little bit distressed. Any suggestions on color and finish…and how to distress? I have black ladder back chairs with rush seats.
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
I would google around for a tutorial for how to distress furniture (there are many awesome ones). As for the color, I’d bring home some swatches to see which ones you like (they can read differently depending on your lighting). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Julia says
Hello! I’m about to paint a wooden table I just bought that is in need of a new paint job. The previous owner painted it poorly and from an angle you can see a stain that is coming through that none of us knows what it is. The lady at home depot recommended we sand it down and put paint directly on a flat behr paint to see if the stain comes through the paint or not. She gave us a 220 sand paper made for initial sanding. What would you recommend in terms of painting this table. It’s white right now and has a few marks on it but my biggest concern is concealing the stain. It just looks like a large shiny patch. You can’t see it looking directly down on it but you can from the side or when light hits the table. The home depot employee speculated it might be an oil stain or a burn mark but I honestly have no idea. What are your suggestions for repainting a table that has a stain or mark on it if you don’t know what it is? Should I sand it and then put on primer? Should i just put primer on top of the original paint? Help!
YoungHouseLove says
It sounds like you need to sand it and use a stainblocking primer followed by latex paint. That’s the only way to stop bleed through (it’ll come right through flat paint over time). Just follow this tutorial and it should look great! Good luck!
xo,
s
Kassie says
Stupid question, but no one seems helpful at our lowes/home depot. Is an oil-based primer necessary if you’re buying paint with the primer in it already? We are trying to make this project as budget friendly as possible, so I don’t want to buy it if it’s not absolutely needed. I guess I should mention it is for our dining room table & chairs. :) also, any suggestions on what primer, if needed, and what paint to use? We were looking at Olympic or valspar for the paint…and I think kiln for the oil based primer. Oh, and one more question! (sorry!) our table is 42″x42″ and 36″ tall. With 4 chairs that match the height of the table. How much of everything should we purchase? It’s our first DIY project, and a big one, so I want it to be just right! :) okay, I think I’m done now!
Thank you soooo much for all your help! You guys rock!!!
YoungHouseLove says
I would get one gallon of stainblocking primer by Kilz or Zinsser and then a quart of latex paint in the brand of your choice (semi-gloss finish). All in one paint and primer doesn’t block bleed through, so it’s better for walls and not furniture. Good luck!
xo,
s
Applejax says
I have a bookshelf that I painted 2 years ago using water-based primer and latex semi-gloss. It’s used mostly to hold toys and knick-knacks. Unfortunately, these things “stick” to it – even after 2 years. I’ve just painted another bookshelf using the same method and am wondering if I should add a clear topcoat of something to keep things from sticking to it. Do you think the water-based polycrylic would be the best option?
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, I would actually try sanding it very very slightly (with super high grit paper, like 300) to add some tooth, and then add some water-based poly. Let it dry for a while (literally, a week wouldn’t hurt) and then lightly dust it with baby powder to absorb any moisture so things hopefully don’t stick. Hope it helps!
xo
s
Jim McClain says
Thanks for the tutorial. I was in need of a boost to my confidence in tackling the paint job on my newly repurposed dresser. I think I can do this. You helped.
Amy says
Do you have any good recommendations for a shade of off-white paint? I am painting a coffee table.
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, we have a white shade we love (BM’s Decorators White) but we don’t have an off-white off hand that we love. Anyone have ideas for Amy?
xo
s
Stevi says
I have a table I want to paint that is not one solid piece. The same with the chairs. Would it be better to take the pieces apart and paint each one individually? Thanks
YoungHouseLove says
I would leave it all together and prime and paint them with thin even coats. Hope it helps!
xo
s
Gerry says
I love your web site. I just finished painting a bureau and chest using an oil based primer and 2 coats of latex semi gloss white. I did it in an unheated summer cottage in Massachusetts and feel it’s now getting too cold to put the top coat of polycrylic on them. Can i wait to do that step in the spring? Thank you.
YoungHouseLove says
Sure!
xo
s
Donna says
My kids and I followed these directions exactly to refinish an old wooded bookcase that a neighbor had on the side of the road to discard. It turned out absolutley beautiful!! The kids grumbled at first and complained that the bookcase was a piece of junk. There were really proud of the end product and have a new appreciation for “junk” furniture. We are getting ready to do two nightstands now. I had to go back and re-read these instructions to make sure that I do everything right.
YoungHouseLove says
Aw, so glad! Congrats Donna!
xo
s
Donna says
I’m planning on painting two black night stands black. The tops have white water rings. Can I just paint black over that and finish with the poly? I would be avoiding the sanding and priming stages. Is the sanding essential? Will the water rings bleed through if I don’t prime?
YoungHouseLove says
It’s really important to always sand and prime even if something is already painted. Primer helps paint stick in a small window (you usually want to paint within a week of priming) so years old primer and paint won’t be nearly as helpful as a nice sanding with new primer and paint applied – and those water rings could come through. Good luck!
xo
s
Elayssa says
Hi there! Is it possible that black paint – or other very dark colors – just don’t behave as well as lighter shades? I followed your lovely directions to paint my desk and found that the sides I painted intense green looked wonderful and the sides I painted black took FOREVER to cure (Yes, even with super thin coats) and just doesn’t look as pro. Hmmn. *scratches head
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, that could be it! Sometimes things with lots of pigment (like black) can be trickier and need more coats/go on thicker/take longer to dry.
xo
s
marie rodrigues says
I went to the hardware store cause i needed a ploy to finish my furniture that i painted they gave me Minwax Polyurethane oil base Fast Drying. Should it not be water based? ty
YoungHouseLove says
Anything oil-based can yellow over time, I definitely don’t recommend it!
xo
s
Cheri says
Hello,
I am having problems with the top of a pedestal table I have been trying to refinish. I first started with an oil based primer and then painted it with a black latex enamel from Sherwin Williams. I used a roller and prudy brush. the end result was horrible with brush marks and roller marks, even color, etc. So I stripped it and sanded it. I then used oil black paint and the same result. Then sanded it down to the bare wood and tried it again and same result and looks worse then ever. I am left tired and very frustrated. Please help.
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, it sounds like you might need thinner and more evn coats. I would use a small foam roller (like 4″ long) to apply it. It won’t have smears and it won’t have too much paint on it. Good luck!
xo
s
Megan says
I’ll be using your tutorial for two pieces this weekend. I want a glossy finish and the pieces don’t really require a poly. Have you ever used the BM Advance high gloss paint? I was curious if you knew about how it would finish.
PS. Attending your book signing in a couple weeks in Chicago and pretty darn excited about it!
YoungHouseLove says
I have heard good things about the semi-gloss but haven’t heard about the high gloss. That might be a good choice (the semi) since high gloss typically shows more flaws (brushstrokes, imperfections in the wood, etc).
xo,
s
Megan says
Just wanted to update – I used the tutorial and painted one piece with semi-gloss and one with high gloss. They both turned out great! It helped that the piece I painted in high gloss was in really good condition. There aren’t many dents or anything that are highlighted from the glossy paint. :)
YoungHouseLove says
That’s awesome! Congrats Megan!
xo,
s
Sean says
I have and old dresser that has been painted over a few times. My wife and I want to paint it a different color, but are not sure if we should strip/prime/paint or sand/prime/paint. Any advice would be appreciated
We are thinking of maybe giving it a distressed look.
YoungHouseLove says
Stripping is always a lot of work, so you could do that (never hurts) but a good sanding to get everything smooth and roughed up should make for a great base for primer and paint as well. Good luck!
xo
s