Whether you’re interested in painting a chair, a table, or any other wooden piece of furniture, the steps are pretty much the same.
Take this table that we built and subsequently painted along with the accompanying white chairs (which used to be a golden blond wood tone).
Sprucing things up with a fresh coat of white paint took them from thrift store (where we got the table base) to Pottery Barn (which sells a similar version of it for 500 beans) in just a few hours.
But enough jibber-jabber. On with the how-to deets:
Step 1- Evaluate the surface of the piece that you’d like to paint. If it’s a sleek glossy surface (like varnished or sealed wood) you’ll want to gently sand the entire piece with 100 grit sandpaper). If it’s more of a dry chalky texture (like unfinished wood or flat paint) you can forgo the sandpaper and skip right to step two.
Step 2- Break out the oil-based primer to ensure that the paint sticks and no stains come through and ruin your finish (we’ve also used Zinsser Smart Prime with great success, which is a low-VOC stain-blocking primer that’s not oil-based – so it’s less stinky). Give the entire piece a good once over with a small foam roller or a paint brush. This coat of primer doesn’t have to be perfectly even in tone (it’ll probably look thinner in some areas since that’s how primer rolls) but as long as the entire piece is well covered – and it’s not too gloppy and thick – it’s ready for step three once it dries.
Step 3- Use a fresh small foam roller or paint brush to apply two thin and even coats of latex paint (a semi-gloss finish is usually best since it’s nice a wipe-able and durable choice). Many people mistakenly think that latex paint isn’t supposed to be applied over oil-based primer, but the real painting no-no is applying latex paint over oil-based paint, which is a guaranteed bubble-fest and should be avoided at all costs. And a word about small foam rollers vs. brushes: according to experts, all rollers – especially if used too quickly- may rile up the paint and lead to bubbles while paint brushes are the most bubble free application method known to man (although you might have brush stroke issues if the paint isn’t applied thinly enough or given ample drying time between coats).
We painted the table above with a paint brush, not a roller. But we have also used small foam rollers with great success, so those are actually our recommended choice for beginners since they cut down on brush strokes or drippy finishes and seem to be the most error proof. No matter what you use, be sure to wait until the first coat of paint is thoroughly dry before applying a second coat (each coat should be applied super lightly and evenly – aim for the thickness of an eggshell or a piece of paper). This thin application is the key to avoiding brush strokes or roller marks for a smooth, gorgeous finish. Repeat after me: three or even four super thin coats are far better than one or two thick and drippy ones!
Step 4- This step is optional, so think of it as extra credit. Brushing on two thin and even coats of water-based poly for wipe-able protection that really goes the extra mile (and provides a glossy oh-so-luxe sheen) can’t hurt if you pick the right stuff. The only two brands that we’ve ever used with unmatched success are these two, so they’re our strong recommendation (other types can yellow or crack over time):
- Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish in “Clear Gloss” (found at any home improvement center)
- Safecoat Acrylacq (which is a low-VOC, non-toxic alternative sold at eco boutiques or online at places like greendepot.com)
We went the extra mile and applied poly to our white table above for a bit of added protection, and we even thinly polyed the chairs since they need to be just as easy to wipe down due to their proximity to food whenever we dine in the sunroom. Thin is definitely the operative word, and again you’ll want to be sure to let the first coat thoroughly dry before going in for the second. Any time you go over semi-wet paint or poly to smooth things out you’ll get terrible drag marks, so work from one side to the other and never go back over things until they’re completely dry.
Step 5- Wait at least a full 72 hours to place objects on your newly painted piece to avoid dents or divots in your finish. If you really want to be on the safe side, we’d recommend waiting five full days. Sometimes factors like humidity and primer/paint/poly thickness can keep things from fully curing up, and you don’t want to get indents from using your newly painted piece too quickly. Waiting this long might take some willpower because you’re dying to sit on/eat on/enjoy your brand new piece, but it’s worth the wait. Promise.
Easy, right? Ok, those were a lot of words, so it might sound complicated. But just take things one step at a time. And remember to breathe. You can totally do it. There’s really no reason to live with wood furniture that’s not exactly the tone or the shade that you’d like. So from painting an old side table a handsome glossy black to giving a scratched up wooden chair a cheerful red tone, it’s definitely a project that you can confidently tackle in an afternoon. Go forth and paint something!
*Oh and it bears noting that if your furniture item is anything other than solid wood or veneered wood (like laminate, melamine, etc) you should visit your local hardware store and ask the paint pro there what they recommend for that surface. There are some great oil-based primers and enamel paints out there (which are changing all the time) so it might be possible to get a great result. The key is really roughing up the surface so it’s less glossy and then priming and painting with the best stuff they have (usually oil or enamel based).Good luck!
Psst- In the market for a quick cabinet painting tutorial? Look no further.
Psssst- Wondering how to paint a brick fireplace? Wonder no more.
Pssssssst- Itching to paint wood paneling? Try this.
Vanessa says
I realize I’m posting on an old entry, but I have a questio and wondered if you had encountered this problem. We’re painting a wooden window sill in the shower and want a waterproof sealant. I’m guessing the two you suggest here won’t work since they are water based? Have you found anything for waterproofing or at least making more water resisnt? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, anyone know? We used a poly to seal an outdoor table (it’s meant for boat decks, so it holds up well to water/rain) here in this post, which might be great: https://www.younghouselove.com/2012/08/t-minus-twenty-four-hours/
xo
s
Vanessa says
Thanks! I looked for that post but somehow couldn’t find it. Thanks for leading me to it!
Frances says
This piece looks amazing! I am getting ready to start painting my wood bedside tables white and was originally going to spray paint them with a paint/primer spray paint. Now I’m truly considering this method…Is there a way to get this kind of result with spray paint?
YoungHouseLove says
It’s hard to get good results with spray paint unless you’re an expert with a paint sprayer when it comes to larger furniture, so we prefer this method.
xo,
s
Kathleen says
I was so excited to see your blog post on painting your kitchen table, it looks great! I am sick of my ikea birch colored table but not ready to spend the money on a new table since I’m still living in an apartment. I would like to paint it a nice fresh white. I was wondering what brand and color white you used for your table? Thanks! Kathleen
YoungHouseLove says
We love Kilz stainblocking primer (oil-based) with off-the-shelf white from Glidden, Behr, or Benjamin Moore (they have a color called Decorators White that we love). Good luck!
xo
s
Julie says
Hello there,
Thank you so much for the post on painting furniture white. Is it possible to use a minwax spray poly that does not yellow or do you recommend only applying with a brush?
I painted a console grey and I love it, but you can see a lot of the brush strokes from the minwax water based poly (my first attempt at using poly). So, I am worried how it would look over white or off white paint.
Thanks for your help!
Julie
YoungHouseLove says
I would just apply it with a brush or a small foam roller (it can go on too thick in a spray and yellow). Maybe a small foam roller will get rid of those brush strokes. Good luck!
xo
s
Autumn says
Perfect answers to my questions! But of course I have a couple more…is it ok to paint all this inside a bedroom as far as circulation/drying goes? This will be my first adventure with painting furniture although I guess it’s not much different from paint fumes from a wall. Also, any tips for painting the drawer areas of a chest? Thanks!!
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yes just crack a window and run a fan if it gets too fumey. And as for painting the drawers, remove them and sit them on the floor so the fronts face the ceiling and paint them that way.
xo,
s
Hannah says
Just wanted to thank you for this tutorial (and all the others – your blog truly is such a great resource!). I just painted my first piece of furniture and I’m super chuffed with how it turned out. Thank you!
YoungHouseLove says
Aw thanks Hannah! Good luck with everything!
xo
s
Patty says
I know this is an old post… but I wanted to check with you both ‘the experts’ on paint/wood that is safe for kiddos. I know you have painted things for Clara and you are a big etsy-lover. I recently have become skeptical on what is or is not safe. I took my 10 month old to a friends for a playdate only to find my son constantly trying to gnaw away on my friend’s coffee table. I mean, seriously, he’s a baby beaver. He’s teething like crazy! I use trusted Plan toys or Melissa&Doug – but what about homemade items at craft fairs or Etsy – what kind of woods or paints to AVOID? Or good questions to ask – to make sure the DIY’er is actually knowledgeable and aware of their own products. For instance, I found an adorable wooden ‘taxi car’ on etsy an it said ‘hardwood’ only to find out it is actually made of pine. Um, isn’t that a SOFT wood? Can you do a post on this or give me a recommended and reliable website to check into this information further? Thanks so much!!!
YoungHouseLove says
I would definitely use no-VOC primer (like Zinsser Smart Prime) and no-VOC paint (like Benjamin Moore Natura or Olympic no-voc Premium) and then use Safecoat (non-toxic sealer from greendepot.com).
xo
s
Pep says
Hi,
Thanks for this very helpful tutorial! I’m hoping to try painting a side table, so I’ll be following this.
Any particular brand of latex paint that you would recommend?
Also, I have a picture frame that is labeled as “composite wood” material. Would your method of primer/paint/poly work for that material?
YoungHouseLove says
We love Benjamin Moore Advance paint. It’s the best we’ve used for furniture! And it would work on a composite frame too!
xo
s
Pep says
Thanks for responding! One last question – how do you know whether to use latex paint or spray paint something? I have some plastic mirror frames, composite wood picture frames, and an end table (I believe it’s solid wood) – are there any rules as to which method is better for which material? What about a metal picture frame?
YoungHouseLove says
We got for this painting method for all pieces of furniture (it’s just a better result in our experience) but never hesitate to spray paint something small (ceramic animal, lamp base, frames, etc). Hope it helps!
xo
s
Christina Marie says
Hello,
Just got introduced to your blog and I’m loving it! I wanted to say that I have found a good way to avoid brush strokes but get that flat coverage look from a roller. I put on the first layer of paint with a brush and I do the second coat with a small roller. This gives it that even finish that I like from a roller…and lets face it a roller is faster, but doesn’t seem to “pull” the paint the way it might if you were to do both coats via roller. Just wanted to share :) keep posting and I’ll keep reading.
-Christina Marie
maria says
Quick question, I just found this post from a search through your archives.
any tips for painting outdoor furniture? I have an old set of wood ikea patio furniture that has been out on my balcony for about 4 years. It’s still in ok condition but looks battered (its not chipping just the finish appears to have rubbed off and its also super dirty) and I want to give it new life instead of getting a new set.
I’ve done some internet research but I’m not 100% sure if I should use a deck cleaner/brightener like some sites recommend, or if cleaning with soap and water and letting dry, then sanding and priming will be enough. any suggestion on which primer and paint to use for outdoor furniture? i am leaning towards Benjamin Moore exterior wood primer (its not oil based though like you recommend)
thank you!! love the blog :)
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, I would really clean it well and let it dry (I bet soap and water would work well) and then sanding and priming and using an exterior paint would be best. I’d go to a paint counter and ask them for their expertise. The Benjamin Moore pros know way more than I do, so I’d go with whatever they say! Good luck!
xo
s
cathi says
Hi Sherry,
These posts are older so I’m hoping you’re still giving advice! Your blog is exactly what I need to figure out my plan! I’ve just finished painting a bookcase w/Behr paint w/primer already in it. Didn’t sand :( – I’m afraid this will do nothing but peel and scrape right off. So first question, what do I do now? And secondly – thank goodness I haven’t started the dresser b/c NOW I’ll know what to do…sand for sure, but can I use the oil based primer under a paint that is a paint and primer in one? It’s Latex, but does have the primer. Help!!!
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yes, I’d just go back and sand over that primer and then prime again and follow this tutorial for the bookcase. As for the dresser as long as you use the oil-based primer, using a paint + primer over that as the top coat should work really well. Good luck!
xo
s
cathi says
Ok Sherry thank you so much! I know just what to do for the dresser, but just want to be clear about the bookcase. What’s on it now is paint w/primer in it. You’re saying to back and sand that – even if I don’t get it all off, and then start from there correctly with an oil based primer and then the paint. Am I understanding that right? Thanks so much!
YoungHouseLove says
Yes, just rough it up with a sander and then prime it with the good stuff following this tutorial. Good luck!
xo
s
cathi says
Ok I have another furniture problem! We have a dresser that is from a furniture store, not sure about the top of the dresser and the amount of real wood etc. I has a deep espresso finish. Some oil from a plug in leaked onto it and “ate” off the finish. Very small, but noticable. It appears to be just down to the wood. I don’t want to try to attempt to sand and refinish the top. It’s a pre-fabbed finish and I dont think I could match it. Is there any quick fix fill in or trick I could use just to patch that small part and be done with it? It doenst have to be perfect, it’s dark so thats good, I just want not to see the exposed, lighter wood where the finish is gone. Help!
YoungHouseLove says
They sell touch up markers in a variety of colors at places like Home Depot so maybe that will disguise it?
xo,
s
Meg says
Hey! Love your blog. I have a quick question. I have been painting furniture a long with chalk paint, but am wanting to do more in the high gloss camp. However, that said, I have a little baby and I have to do projects in the house. I have found that all oil based paints are super stinky. Do you have any recommendations for primer and paint that don’t leave terrible fumes? I am going to try your acrylacq suggestion :)
YoungHouseLove says
We like Zinsser Smart Prime (it’s not oil based but is still stainblocking and low-VOC). Hope it helps!
xo
s
Celeste Hunter says
Hi, love your blog. Started to paint the top of old bureau and end table. Primed it with oil-based primer as you advised, and the primer is not drying! It has been over 50 hours now and it’s still very sticky. Will it ever dry? Should I just start painting? Very frustrated as wanted this to be a weekend project. Any advise would be appreciated. Btw, I used Behr primer.
YoungHouseLove says
Primer usually stays tacky (that’s how it works, it gets paint to stick to it by being slightly sticky). It shouldn’t feel wet when you touch it, but if it’s just tacky I would go onto painting and then make sure it dries completely. Of course it could also be a defect with the primer, it might be too hot/cold (see the can for those instructions, etc) so this is just a guess!
xo
s
Celeste Hunter says
Awesome! Thank you so much, I’m such a novice, had no idea it was supposed to be tacky! Going to paint now!
YoungHouseLove says
Good luck Celeste!
xo
s
Celeste says
So, I painted both with high gloss paint and it looks awful. The white primer is coming through in a veiny pattern. Then repainted heavier and it’s still coming through. Don’t know here to go from this point other than sanding it all and reprinting without that awful primer. Where did I go wrong? Oh, on the side where I didn’t put primer on it looks fine. Any advice?
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm it honesly sounds like a weird reaction between the paint and the primer, but that only happens when the primer or the paint is bad (latex paint over oil paint can have a bad reaction, but latex paint over oil based primer is just fine and what we use all the time). So sorry it’s giving you issues Celeste. Maybe wait for it to dry, sand it down and then try a thin coat of paint? Or a new primer if you worry the first batch was bad? This is a really unusual issue- sorry I can’t be of more help!
xo
s
Celeste says
I am going to sand it down, repaint without the primer and call it a day. I really believe it had something to do with that awful primer. I have an email into Behr to ask them about it. Thanks so much for your help.
YoungHouseLove says
Sure thing! Good luck Celeste!
xo
s
Fatma says
Hi, thanx for the great TIPS!.
i just wanted to know if these steps will also work with a table bought from IKEA?.
xo.
YoungHouseLove says
If it’s laminate, you might not have as much luck. I’d bring a photo of it (or a leg from it) to a paint specialist (like someone who works at the counter of a paint store) and ask what they recommend.
xo
s
Cass says
I came across your website about a year ago, and just now got around to doing my first project! I bought a dining table and chairs on craigslist for $35 and followed your instructions here. In the end I decided I wanted to distress it so I grabbed some sand paper and sanded away at my beautiful new paint job…. and I am absolutely in love with how it turned out! I’d love to share my before/after with you :)
Thanks for sharing all this info!
YoungHouseLove says
That sounds awesome Cass! Feel free to upload it to a free site like Flickr and post the link here for us (or upload it to our Facebook page). Can’t wait to see it!
xo
s
candy says
Hi Sherry, How do you apply the polycrylic finish? With a brush or some kind of sprayer? THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!
YoungHouseLove says
I just use a brush. Thin and even coats and follow the instructions for how far apart they should be applied.
xo
s
hazel says
i want to paint my black pottery barn dining room table a cream color its two years old do i need to sand it first or can i just prime it?
YoungHouseLove says
I’d lightly sand, use a liquid deglosser and then prime and paint for the most durable result (it’s a dining table so it’ll get a lot of use).
xo
s
Betty says
I am in the midst of painting a dresser and have a question. First, I used an oil based primer (Kilz) to cover the walnut finish. Secondly, I sanded well, so well that apparently I removed some of the primer because when I painted with a latex paint it bled through…….I am stuck, should I purchase a latex primer to go over this painted surface or should I just paint it again and the bleeding will discontinue? I know according to your other post whatever I do must be ‘latex’ – correct?
YoungHouseLove says
Oh no! The bleeding will continue until you prime that spot, so I’d let it dry, sand it a little to rough it up, prime, wait for that to dry, and do a final coat of paint. You can always use oil-based primer though (that’s a neutral, it can work with oil or latex) – and then follow that with latex paint :)
xo
s
Amanda says
Maybe you can advise on a couple problems I always have. The one that bugs me the most is that whenever I paint furniture, paint always seems to pool at the edge of the wood. If I try to smooth it out on one side, it pools on the other side of the corner. So I always have a thick ridge or bump of paint on the corners. Any ideas?
Another thing, is when I paint or roll, I always get those brush lines or roller dimples that match the shape of what I’m using. It really bugs me! Is this preventable?
If you don’t know what I mean, I can send pics because I’d love some advice!!
YoungHouseLove says
It sounds like a too much paint issue. If you have less on your brush it hopefully won’t pool anywhere. I’d dab it with a cloth to get off the excess and then with a brush that’s almost dry of paint (wipe off both sides) I’d smooth out the corner. As for the roller, I’d try a small foam roller. We don’t seem to get dimples with that.
xo
s
Tonya says
This will be very helpful.
penny says
Thanks so much, I will definitely try this.
Erin says
Hi YHL!
Quick question about primer. You say your favorite low VOC primer is Zinsser Smart Prime . . . unfortunately that product is not sold within a 50 mile radius of my city. :( Say wha? Anyway, I know you also used Kilz Clean Start on your paneling. Do you think that might be a good second option? I’m painting a piece of older wood furniture that has previously been stained and also probably has some non-visible stainage. I know I could just suck it up and used oil-based primer, but I’d rather use a low VOC especially since I’ll be doing all the painting inside my apartment and can only ventilate with open windows/fans. Bonus question: is your current favorite semi-gloss paint still Benjamin Moore?
YoungHouseLove says
I’d worry about some bleed with the Clean Start (that was our experience). Maybe the new formula is better a few years later? And yes, my favorite paint is always BM these days. We’ve used it for doors and windows and trim and walls and furniture and cabinets and it’s just awesome every time.
xo
s
Erin says
No low VOC Kilz primer at my local Home Depot either:( Biting the bullet and going with regular Zinsser oil-based primer. Thanks for your help though!
Erin says
Hi there,
I have a few questions about poly:
1. Does it matter how long the paint has been dry before applying? (Mine have been dry for like 5 days or so.) Is there a window of time to apply it in other words?
2. Also, the can says to sand before each coat–but won’t that ruin the paint finish? Do you sand before or between coats of poly?
Also, for future reference:
If I want to repaint these pieces in the future–to add a different color, for instance, or maybe be a perfectionist about rough/drippy parts I noticed in a few spots from this paint job, I’m assuming I’d need to start the process all over again: sand, prime, paint? Not just apply more paint, right?
Thank you so much for your help as always!
YoungHouseLove says
Primer stays “open” for about a week, so you want to apply paint within that time. As for sanding, you should use a super high grit paper if you do that (250+) but I skip that because I find I don’t need to sand if I apply thin and even coats as I go. As for areas you want to touch up, you can just sand them smooth, prime, and paint those areas again for the best results.
xo
s
YR says
Hi Sherry,
I am freaking out right now, I painted my kitchen island, I primed, painted and then sealed with polycrylic and everything was great until just now. I have some baskets to organize my utensils, it looks like where the basket, rubs when we take it in or out, is making the paint come off, but not peeling just like a little scratch that remove the blue paint and i can see the white primer. Please Help!!!!! What should I do? HELP HELP HELP!!!!!!
YoungHouseLove says
Oh no! I’m so sorry YR! Our cabinet painting method is actually different than our furniture painting method (we use a special type of self-leveling paint and no sealer/poly at all). Here’s a post about that: https://www.younghouselove.com/2012/01/how-to-paint-your-cabinets-aka-hallelujah/ . I would sand down that drawer and try the full cabinet painting method on it and hopefully it’ll hold better. That drawer usually gets the most abuse.
xo
s
YR says
Ohh NO!!, I just read the cabinet tutorial, so different. This is my first project EVER, and I felt so proud of myself now is just sad, that means I have to sand everything and start all over :(. I know what happened I didn’t use a semigloss paint. Stupid me!!
Thank you for your prompt response Sherry, I love your tutorials and always very helpful tips.
PS. You are very pretty, you look like a lovely couple, and I love Clara’s name.
YoungHouseLove says
Aw thanks YR! I hope it all goes smoothly and looks awesome when you’re done! Be sure to give them lots of time to dry (between coats and after you’re done) so they cure up nice and hard and hold up well. Good luck!!
xo
s
Monica says
I love the dresser that was painted with a gradient (Project #230 in the book) and am going to try this on a dresser I bought from Craig’s List. I love how the drawer handles on your dresser are painted the same color as the drawer. We don’t really care for the metal (brass?) hardware that is on the dresser, so I think painting it the same color as the drawer will help it blend in. What did you do to paint over the hardware? Thanks for your help!
YoungHouseLove says
The handles on that dresser were actually wood so we painted them the same way we painted the dresser. If they’re metal I’d sand them, degloss them, and then spray paint them (with something with a built in primer preferably) if you can.
xo
s
Becky says
I recently spent hours stripping several layers of paint from an entire bedroom set. A large reason that I spent all the time sanding was because you could see every brush stroke. Wanting to avoid having the brush strokes coming back I started scouring the internet for advice. When I came across your page I knew it was what I needed. Having finished painting the furniture, I could not be more pleased. Thank you for creating an easy to follow, simple, and wonderful article.
YoungHouseLove says
So glad Becky! Congrats!
xo
s
Rachel says
Hey guys, I got an awesome coffee table at the thrift store and just slapped some paint on it without taking the proper steps. Now it’s not looking so hot. I plan on repainting it the same color so do I still need the primer? Or should I just lightly sand then repaint and coat? Thanks!!!!!
YoungHouseLove says
I would sand it well (until it’s smooth, otherwise new paint will just emphasize the flaws) and then prime and paint it. Thin and even coats baby! Good luck!
xo
s
Katie says
This is a great tutorial! My only question is how to clean the paint brush/roller after applying an oil based primer? Do I just have to use an old one that I won’t mind throwing away? Also, will I need more than one coat of primer? If so, how do I preserve my brush in between coats?
Thanks for you help! Your site is so inspiring and helpful for us!
Katie says
Also, have you ever used Sherwin Williams ProClassic paint for furniture? There’s no Ben Moore store near us and I can’t find Advance anywhere else. Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
We’ve never tried it. Anyone else have tips/experiences for Katie?
xo
s
YoungHouseLove says
I like mineral spirits for cleaning brushes with oil-based primer (they sell it at Home Depot). Between coats you can always put your brush in a ziplock bag and it’ll stay wet for the next coat and then just wash it with mineral spirits when you’re done. Good luck!
xo
s
Debbie says
I have an oak dining room table that was stained. I sanded, used a water based primer, then flat white paint and the Minwax water based Polycrylic -satin finish. I waited in between each step and really took time. I was doing it in a garage and noticed black specks (varnishing step) so I would sand it a bit and try again. I finally took it inside to complete the project. I am having so much trouble with the varnish/finish. I get drag marks, or strokes, or small spots/threads even small black spots. I have used so much varnish it isn’t funny. I have considered giving up but I am doing it for my sister-in-law and I want it to be perfect. The varnishing is my biggest problem – a few comments said the foam roller will give you blisters/bubbles but I keep getting blisters with a brush.How do you not get brush strokes? Thank you so much.
Debbie
YoungHouseLove says
I just do super thin and even coats and I use Safecoat, which is amazingly smooth and doesn’t seem to give me trouble. Maybe it’s what you’re using that’s thicker and harder to work with?
xo
s
Betty says
Back again. I am still working on a dresser for my grand-daughter. With your advice I got rid of my first problem (original color bleeding through). Now I have another problem. I used the primer suggested, I painted and I have sanded in between……now I am trying to put on a second coat of paint and am getting all kinds of little bubbles (using my first sall foam roller + I did try a new roller with same bubble results). I didn’t get the bubbles with the first coat, why now? I plan to let it dry and sand again. Will await your advice. Thank you so much for you blog and experience.
YoungHouseLove says
So strange! I would try putting the paint on much thinner, so just a thin thin coat with the roller (sometimes too much gets bubbly). You also can just let it dry and sometimes the bubbles shrink up when it cures and you can use super high grit sandpaper to smooth it out and it’s great in the end.
xo
s
Betty says
I am back again, so thankful you are here to help. I lightly sanded the areas that had bubbled and the dresser looks better, however will need another coat (from the sanding). I am wondering if perhaps I did not stir my paint enough and now that I am in the bottom half of the can it was simply too thick causing the sae effect as painting a thick coat. Let us assume that is what happened. Would I be better off buying another quart of paint or do you think I could add some Floetrol to what I have for good results. I am so close to being done. It really is shaping up well, just have to get a good final coat on. Thank you so very much.
YoungHouseLove says
I think the Floetrol would be a good idea! Then let it fully dry since any slight bubbles can calm down and seem to shrink when the paint fully cures.
xo,
s
Christin Wilkens says
I was told it is good to use zinsser spray shellac to help with the musty smell of my piece and help with any bleeding. I am painting over a thin flat paint. Have you used this, and if I use this is it still necessary to use a primer under the paint? Thanks so much!!
YoungHouseLove says
You definitely need some sort of primer, so if you have that or have used it I would go for it! It’s important to block the odor and help the paint adhere with some sort of stainblocking primer.
xo
s
Cierra says
Hi,
I just bought a product called Reclaim; Beyond Paint. Ever heard of it?! I bought the quart size jar to try a couple of small projects out, and it if goes well, I’m planning on painting an old bedroom set that’s a dark varnish with lots of details. They sell it on the home shopping network, amazon and a few other private retailers. It was invented to require no sanding/priming because it got some nano particle technology that allows the particles to get into smaller spaces. It can go on almost any surface, and it’s also eco home friendly. It almost sounds too good to be true, minus the price. I’ll let you know how it goes. I don’t have a lot of painting experience, but have a boatload of paint projects I want to tackle and this is supposed to save a lot of time with great results. I’ll keep you posted!
YoungHouseLove says
Sounds awesome! Let me know honor goes!
xo,
s
Jenn S says
Complete newbie to home DIY but a longtime stalker of YHL. I am going to paint my 7 year old Ikea butcherblock looking dining room table black and I have no idea where to start! I love the way that your table looks – nice and shiny! – but I have researched a lot of websites and have made myelf very confused. Your method sounds “easy” would it be easy for a newbie to do? Also I am NOT crafty at all – always figured if I REALLY messed up my tab;e I could cpver it with a tablecloth!
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yes, if you follow all the steps here it’s pretty easy. You can totally do it! The key is super thin coats of paint and is use a foam roller to avoid brush strokes since you’re a newbie (and skip the sealer, just do primer and semi-gloss paint). Good luck!
xo
s
Taurie says
We just scored an entertainment console off of Craigslist for our living room. It’s a gorgeous Cherry color, and the top of it is black tempered glass. It really darkens up the whole space though, so I was thinking about painting the tempered glass on top a soft aqua.
What do you think? Are you even “allowed” to paint tempered glass? I’m pretty nervous to do this, because it would really stink to screw the whole thing up!
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, anyone have tips for Taurie? We’ve never tried painting tempered glass, but maybe try googling around for a tutorial? Maybe painting the underside of it will give it color but it won’t scratch off?
xo
s
Amelia says
Hi Guys,
I bought a dining room table and 6 chairs off craigslist and I’m painting the chairs. I’ve already primed them, but it was slow and tedious since the backs of the chairs are not solid and there are too many small spaces for a roller. I was wondering if you’ve ever used a paint sprayer with latex paint and if you have used one what were the results like?
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
We have used a sprayer to paint doors and trim and really liked the result. I’d just be careful about not going to heavy/drippy (make sure you have a handle on using it by practicing on other stuff that doesn’t matter until you get your bearings). Good luck!
xo
s
Janet says
I sanded, primed, and spray painted a wooden kitchen chair with Rust-Oleum Ultra Cover Gloss spray paint. The finish was very smooth after priming but prior to spray painting. The problem is that after spraying it the finish now feels rough to touch. Should I steel wool the chair and then respray it? What caused the roughness even though it was a gloss paint and I started with a smooth surface?
Thanks for your help!
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, I’ve never had that issue. Maybe it got too cold or warm while drying? Sometimes that affects how something cures. I would try sanding it down or using steel wool to see if respraying it helps. Good luck!
xo
s
Janet says
Thanks for the reply Sherry! I went ahead and used a very fine steel wool on the chair and it turned out much smoother :). Being a newbie to spray painting my gut feeling on what caused it to feel rough is when I starting the spraying process I was spraying from too far a distance from the chair. As I got braver I moved in closer. On to the next project to get more experience!
This is my favorite blog!
YoungHouseLove says
I’m SO GLAD it worked out! And thanks for sharing what helped fix it!
xo
s
Cynthia says
Approx. how much did the chairs cost?
YoungHouseLove says
Oh man it’s hard to remember. I got 4 of them from ebay back when I lived in NYC. They were maybe $100 for all four? Or $140 for all four?
xo
s
Kim says
Hi Sherry! Thank goodness for your old posts! I’ve been scouring Google for some answers about polycrylic application issues, when really I should just ask you! I’m doing the ‘DIY paint your countertops to look like granite’ from m pinterest… everything is great until my first coat of min wax water based poly. First coat – applied w a foam brush, turned out streaky and brush marks. Sanded that out, and applied the second coat just now w a foam roller. Ugh…all bubbles. So looks like more sanding is in my future :( I’ve read through most of your responses here – should I apply lucky coat #3 with a brush (of the not foam variety)? Thanks so much for any ideas you have for me!!
YoungHouseLove says
Ugh, so sorry Kim! I would try a regular brush and not shake up the poly and use this type of poly if you can. Shaking or brushing it on fast can rile it up, so go slow and steady if you can!
xo
s
D. says
Hi Sherry! When the thought of painting furniture first crossed my mind I had no idea where to start. After doing a lot of Googling I eventually came across this blog post and, for the first time, had hope that I could create something beautiful! I have now completed 3 pieces of furniture (though not without some setbacks) and am continuing to buzz with ideas. I just wanted to thank you for your helpful post! And if you’re interested to see what I managed to come up with (so far) I’d love it if you would check out my blog posts:
http://tangledelegance.blogspot.ca/2013/10/its-miracle.html
http://tangledelegance.blogspot.ca/2013/09/finished-product.html
Thanks again!
D.
YoungHouseLove says
Aw thanks so much D! You’re so sweet! I’m so excited to see your stuff. Thanks for sharing the links. So inspiring!
xo
s
Steph says
Am about to paint a bookshelf and happy to see you have a tutorial on this! One question though: Any thoughts on how liberally to use wood filler? We’re amateurs and our bookshelf is pretty good, but the cuts aren’t perfect. There are a few spaces were boards meet and gaps where groves don’t fit perfectly. Should we try to fill all these? Or just paint regardless of the gaps? What’s the downside to either? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
You can fill anything you’d like with the wood putty and be crazy meticulous or just leave the cracks and stain everything. If you’re going to paint a light color (ex: white) instead of using stain or a dark color, the cracks will become more defined against the light tone, so when in doubt, I’d just try to fill all the cracks, sand them, and then prime/paint for the most seamless look! If you miss some it’ll probably look great too though!
xo
s
Vanessa says
I primed and painted raw wood shelves that will be going in various closets: Master Bedroom, Hall closet, and a linen closet in our bathroom. Do you think I should poly them?
Thanks!
Vanessa
YoungHouseLove says
I would just use primer + semi-gloss paint and you should be all set.
xo
s
Jackie says
Looks incredible!