Whether you’re interested in painting a chair, a table, or any other wooden piece of furniture, the steps are pretty much the same.
Take this table that we built and subsequently painted along with the accompanying white chairs (which used to be a golden blond wood tone).
Sprucing things up with a fresh coat of white paint took them from thrift store (where we got the table base) to Pottery Barn (which sells a similar version of it for 500 beans) in just a few hours.
But enough jibber-jabber. On with the how-to deets:
Step 1- Evaluate the surface of the piece that you’d like to paint. If it’s a sleek glossy surface (like varnished or sealed wood) you’ll want to gently sand the entire piece with 100 grit sandpaper). If it’s more of a dry chalky texture (like unfinished wood or flat paint) you can forgo the sandpaper and skip right to step two.
Step 2- Break out the oil-based primer to ensure that the paint sticks and no stains come through and ruin your finish (we’ve also used Zinsser Smart Prime with great success, which is a low-VOC stain-blocking primer that’s not oil-based – so it’s less stinky). Give the entire piece a good once over with a small foam roller or a paint brush. This coat of primer doesn’t have to be perfectly even in tone (it’ll probably look thinner in some areas since that’s how primer rolls) but as long as the entire piece is well covered – and it’s not too gloppy and thick – it’s ready for step three once it dries.
Step 3- Use a fresh small foam roller or paint brush to apply two thin and even coats of latex paint (a semi-gloss finish is usually best since it’s nice a wipe-able and durable choice). Many people mistakenly think that latex paint isn’t supposed to be applied over oil-based primer, but the real painting no-no is applying latex paint over oil-based paint, which is a guaranteed bubble-fest and should be avoided at all costs. And a word about small foam rollers vs. brushes: according to experts, all rollers – especially if used too quickly- may rile up the paint and lead to bubbles while paint brushes are the most bubble free application method known to man (although you might have brush stroke issues if the paint isn’t applied thinly enough or given ample drying time between coats).
We painted the table above with a paint brush, not a roller. But we have also used small foam rollers with great success, so those are actually our recommended choice for beginners since they cut down on brush strokes or drippy finishes and seem to be the most error proof. No matter what you use, be sure to wait until the first coat of paint is thoroughly dry before applying a second coat (each coat should be applied super lightly and evenly – aim for the thickness of an eggshell or a piece of paper). This thin application is the key to avoiding brush strokes or roller marks for a smooth, gorgeous finish. Repeat after me: three or even four super thin coats are far better than one or two thick and drippy ones!
Step 4- This step is optional, so think of it as extra credit. Brushing on two thin and even coats of water-based poly for wipe-able protection that really goes the extra mile (and provides a glossy oh-so-luxe sheen) can’t hurt if you pick the right stuff. The only two brands that we’ve ever used with unmatched success are these two, so they’re our strong recommendation (other types can yellow or crack over time):
- Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish in “Clear Gloss” (found at any home improvement center)
- Safecoat Acrylacq (which is a low-VOC, non-toxic alternative sold at eco boutiques or online at places like greendepot.com)
We went the extra mile and applied poly to our white table above for a bit of added protection, and we even thinly polyed the chairs since they need to be just as easy to wipe down due to their proximity to food whenever we dine in the sunroom. Thin is definitely the operative word, and again you’ll want to be sure to let the first coat thoroughly dry before going in for the second. Any time you go over semi-wet paint or poly to smooth things out you’ll get terrible drag marks, so work from one side to the other and never go back over things until they’re completely dry.
Step 5- Wait at least a full 72 hours to place objects on your newly painted piece to avoid dents or divots in your finish. If you really want to be on the safe side, we’d recommend waiting five full days. Sometimes factors like humidity and primer/paint/poly thickness can keep things from fully curing up, and you don’t want to get indents from using your newly painted piece too quickly. Waiting this long might take some willpower because you’re dying to sit on/eat on/enjoy your brand new piece, but it’s worth the wait. Promise.
Easy, right? Ok, those were a lot of words, so it might sound complicated. But just take things one step at a time. And remember to breathe. You can totally do it. There’s really no reason to live with wood furniture that’s not exactly the tone or the shade that you’d like. So from painting an old side table a handsome glossy black to giving a scratched up wooden chair a cheerful red tone, it’s definitely a project that you can confidently tackle in an afternoon. Go forth and paint something!
*Oh and it bears noting that if your furniture item is anything other than solid wood or veneered wood (like laminate, melamine, etc) you should visit your local hardware store and ask the paint pro there what they recommend for that surface. There are some great oil-based primers and enamel paints out there (which are changing all the time) so it might be possible to get a great result. The key is really roughing up the surface so it’s less glossy and then priming and painting with the best stuff they have (usually oil or enamel based).Good luck!
Psst- In the market for a quick cabinet painting tutorial? Look no further.
Psssst- Wondering how to paint a brick fireplace? Wonder no more.
Pssssssst- Itching to paint wood paneling? Try this.
Tammy says
Thanks so much! If the projects turn out well, perhaps I will share the “afters” with you guys! Thanks again, and have a great holiday weekend.
Pamela Patton says
Really appreciate your blog. Found it all very helpful. Would you suggest a deglosser (sp?) be used on a shiny dining room table, buffet and 6 dining room chairs before applying the primer? I have used this product in years past when doing my kitchen cabinets and it gave me the surface I needed to make the paint adhere. The dining room set is from the 60’s or 70’s and is oriental in nature. I want to paint it all black with the exception of the burl wood that is on the back of the chairs. Thanks for your help.
Regards,
Pam
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Pam,
Sure, we definitely recommend a deglosser or a heavy sanding when it comes to pieces that are super shiny- just to give the primer/paint a good foundation. Hope it helps! Happy painting…
xo,
Sherry
Melissa says
Where did you find the base for your table?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Melissa,
The base of our table came from Diversity Thrift here in Richmond, Virginia (the base came with a square top for around $30 and we actually used the old top to make the coffee table in the sunroom. Gotta love two tables for the price of one. Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
Deborah says
I have a bedroom set (two tall chests and one dresser with mirror I want to refinish because it fits the room. It was pickled white, not sure what type wood. I think the drawer front look like oak but the sides of the dressers look like maple. At any rate, we have spend a lot of time with very poor results, sanding, priming with oil base primer, and staining. It will not accept the stain evenly and we were told by home depot to paint the furniture. But what color is the question. I can’t picture colors well. The floors are wood bamboo, the walls are a deep beige with an undertone of pink, the bed is a kingsize iron with touches of black,gold and silver. The bathroom is about to be redone with the same flooring a medium honey wood cabinets and granite countertops made of rainforest green (it’s green with petrified brown wood running thru it. Bedding is basic white. Please help I need the furniture back in the room! What colors should I consider?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Deborah,
Picking paint colors is a really subjective thing. There’s definitely no right answer or perfect formula. I would consider a medium to dark brown color which would blend nicely with almost anything. You could also go with cream or white, which will work with the bedding and feel light and airy. Of course using an oil-based primer followed by two coats of thin semi-gloss paint will make everything nice and smooth and wipe-able (you wouldn’t want to just go with flat paint as it’s not as easy to keep clean). Hope it helps! Happy painting…
xo,
Sherry
Haley says
Hi,
I would like o paint a Pottery Barn kids desk..it is currently white and I am going for an off white color. I am pretty sure it is not solid wood and currently it has a very slick and a bit glossy finish. Should I sand, oil prime then 2 coats of latex like you have suggested for others even if it is not all wood?! What if it is mdf? Thank very much.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Haley,
Although painting MDF isn’t as foolproof and long-lasting as painting solid wood, your best bet is definitely a thorough sanding followed by oil-based primer and then two to three coats of latex paint. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
lisa says
so, i have followed all of the steps, and used semi gloss on my sideboard………….but, i have brush strokes that are way obvious. should i continue applying light coats until it looks better……….please help:p
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Lisa,
If you’ve been applying thin and even coats of paint there are only two possible reasons for the obvious brush strokes: 1) your brush isn’t clean enough or high quality enough so it’s dragging paint and creating the marred finish or 2) you’re touching up spots on the sideboard minutes after going over them the first time (you want to apply one thin even coat and leave everything alone until it’s completely dry and ready for a second coat- going back and touching things up before it’s thoroughly dry will rough up the paint and result in brush strokes).
That being said, picking up a nice brand new angled brush, resisting the urge to touch things up mid-coat and waiting until everything is thoroughly dry should cure the issue. And a few more thin and even coats should even everything out under it. Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
lisa says
Sherry, thanks so much…the last coat looked so much better!!!I really love your blog!!!! lisa
Dana says
All this information has been unbelievably helpful. I’m getting ready to start my first refinishing project… a hope chest (and Craigslist score!) to be painted a creamy white and turned into a filing cabinet. When closed, it will do double duty as extra seating in my office. I can’t wait to get started.
I plan to use wood putty to level a few scratches, sand the entire piece, and prep with oil-based primer. My question is, what is the best way to clean up oil-based primer? I’ve been told paint thinner or mineral spirits is the way to go. What do you recommend? How can I use these products in a safe and environmentally friendly manner?
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Dana,
Mineral spirits are definitely our recommendation when it comes to cleaning up oil-based primer. We actually keep our container of it in the garage (which is detached) so we’re not polluting the indoor air that we breath with the fumes when we soak and rinse our brushes. It’s definitely best to use mineral spirits in an extremely well ventilated place (ie: outside) and when you finish up with the container of course take care to dispose of it in the special toxic containers at the recycling center or garbage depot near you (never toss them in with your regular trash). Hope it helps! And good luck with that chest/cabinet you’re about to whip up! Happy painting…
xo,
Sherry
Melanie says
I am trying to repaint a dining room table set. I was told to use deglosser, once you apply the deglosser to the chairs, are you suppose to wash the deglosser off. On some areas of the chair, the deglosser has left a buildup? Thanks.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Melanie,
You definitely want to read and follow the application directions on the deglosser that you purchased (every product is different) but we did find these general instructions that we hope will help:
Liquid deglosser is liberally applied with a soft rag, then wiped off with a dry rag. To smooth out a surface as well as degloss it before painting, try this trick: Use fine steel wool or a flexible sanding pad dipped in the deglosser to apply it, then wipe it off. Older oil based paints applied before 1980 are very likely to contain lead, and dry–sanding it creates potentially toxic dust. Wet-sanding with deglosser virtually eliminates the dust. While solvent deglossers do not have to be rinsed off, cleaning deglossers like TSP must be thoroughly rinsed prior to painting.
Here’s the link so you can read more of their tips (we found the “Misconceptions” and “Expert Insights” categories to be especially interesting). Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
Tiffani says
Hi! We just bought an old, somewhat scratched, bedroom set for my daughter. It is a blonde colored wood that looks like solid wood in some places and possibly laminate in other places. I was hoping to sand it down and paint it white but I’m not sure if I can do that on the laminate looking places. It mostly looks like laminate on the very top. What kind of primer and paint should I use? Also, what kind of brush should I use to paint? One last quesion, what’s the best way to minimize the appearance of the dings and scratches? Thank you so much for your help!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Tiffani,
I think you’ll have the best luck sanding only the parts that are wood, filling in any dings and scratches with wood putty, waiting for it to thoroughly dry, priming the entire thing with oil-based primer (like Kilz) and following that with two to three thin and even coats of latex semi-gloss paint. As for the brush, any high quality angled brush will work, and if you have any questions about the primer or the wood filler or the brush when you’re at the store, the paint specialist can definitely help so don’t be shy- just ask away! Hope it helps! Good luck…
xo,
Sherry
Mahala says
Seeing your blog for the first time and really like it. Will be sharing with many others!
Have a set of craigslist bookcases that are blond veneer or laminate. Per your response much earlier this morning, I take it no sanding will be needed if I use oil primer and follow with latex paint…correct? I would like a glossy finish, so better to use gloss paint or a final poly coat?
Thank you for your time and all the helpful information.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Mahala,
Unless there are obvious splinters or areas that need to be sanded, we’d definitely skip that step and go right to oil-based primer. Then we’d actually suggest full-gloss latex paint (as opposed to semi-gloss or poly) since it’s a bookcase so you don’t need the same poly protection that you would for a dining table… and you’ll get a super glossy shine. Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
Shannon says
I’m going to be repainting some kitchen chairs. If they’re going to be covered with two coats of polyurethane anyway, does the paint finish really make a difference in terms of being able to easily wipe off spills? Also, how long do you recommend allowing coats to dry in between applications when the air is very humid?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Shannon,
If you’re using a few thin coats of poly as the last step of your project then you don’t need to worry about the finish of the paint. And if the air is super humid I would recommend waiting at least 4 to 5 hours between coats- and the operative word is thin! Three thin coats is eons better than one drippy gooey one. Hope it helps. Happy painting…
xo,
s
Suzanne says
Hi! I just found your blog about a month ago and have totally enjoyed reading all your advise…although it’s really cutting into my full time job! ha!
My question is actually not about the process so much as the color. I’ve been in a “paint everything black” phase for a while, but think I’m getting ready to jump on the sleek white bandwagon. I know you did the paint color post yesterday, but am wondering what color white you use for furniture? Do you go with a white-white or somthing a little more subtle?
Thanks for the help!
Suzanne
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Suzanne,
We keep a gallon of Benjamin Moore semi-gloss Decorators White around which has lasted us forever and come in handy for all of our painting projects. It’s not a stark white, but a bit of a warm white that still feels crisp. Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
Jen says
Sherry, I might just have to look into buying an unfinished piece of furniture. We have a store here that sells unfinished wood furniture. That might just be my answer. So glad I read this post. I’m am so lovin’ this site of yours. Great job (you & your husband).
~Jen
Sue says
Dear Sherry,
Do you need to sand the entire piece down to the natural wood before applying primer.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Sue,
You can scroll up to read a number of responses to this very question but if the piece is solid wood and in good shape (no splintering or rough edges) you can go straight to primer without sanding. If there are rough areas that could benefit from some smoothing out, 100 grit sandpaper can be used to give just those areas a rub-down, or you could gloss over the whole piece with sandpaper to create an even better foundation for paint. Also if the piece is extremely slick you might want to sand to add some tooth (for example if you’re working with extremely glossy lacquered pieces). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Julianne Hendrickson says
Hi!
We took on our first painting project this weekend and are just not having the easiest time. We had a very dark wood table that we wanted to turn white. We sanded it with a middle grade sandpaper and a fine sandpaper, and then we applied Kilz latex water-based primer (2 coats) and we are on almost our third coat of a semi-gloss white paint finish. We still can tell it was a brown table underneath…what do we do next?? Continue to paint?
Julianne
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Julianne,
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but you need oil-based primer instead of the water-based one you used. Try letting the current coats of paint fully dry and lightly sanding them and then doing just one thin coat of oil-based primer followed by two to three coats of white semi-gloss latex paint. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Julianne Hendrickson says
Thank you!! Why would one use water-based primer? Of course, having this be our first project we took advice from the Lowes people..grrrr…oh well.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Julianne,
Yeah, we’re stumped as to why people use water-based primer either. I guess for some of the simpler and easier jobs (like priming unfinished wood) it can work (and it’s a quicker clean-up) but we always think it’s better to be safe than sorry so we grab the oil-based primer every time. Good luck with everything!
xo,
s
linda Thacker says
What does the oil based primer do that is different from the water based? If you use oil based primer why don’t you use oil based paint. I have several pieces of wood furniture (which had stain on it previously) to paint and I want to do it the best way.
YoungHouseLove says
Oil based primer is stronger and blocks stains while water-based primer just isn’t as durable when it comes to stain blocking (things can slowly seep through and ruin your paint job). Oil-based paint can also be used instead of latex, but it’s a bit messier and takes a lot longer to dry (which is why we suggest water-based latex paint following the oil-based primer since it goes on smoothly and dries faster for a better chance at a seamless finished product). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Kristina says
Hey Sherry, bugging you again, but do you have any tips on choosing a semi-gloss or flat finish? My living room is BRIGHT blue and I have chairs I’m going to paint white. I was leaning towards semi-gloss, but I’m wondering if that will be too much WOW. Is it just personal preference or does it make a difference? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Kristina,
We always always go semi-gloss for wipe-ability and durability (it has a bit more flex in it than flat paint, so it chips and peels less easily). The only time we go for flat is if we’ll be following it with poly so the sheen doesn’t matter. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Shantel says
I just picked up an old dresser that I am turning into an entry table. The dresser is in good shape but its a light wood color and I am wanting a darker brown distressed look. What color/sheen would you recommend so this piece looks more “wood” like then plastic. If that makes sense. In the past I have painted furniture 1 color and it looks shiney and just awful.
I like the light wood color and wouldn’t mind seeing a little of it when I distress the dark brown. How do I go about doing that if I am going to prime it first? Only the white primer will show through, correct? Or is their such a thing as clear primer? Thanks!!!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Shantel,
You could use brown tinted primer that’s similar in tone to the wood, or you could probably use regular white primer and just sand through that when you’re distressing the piece to get back down to the actual wood in some spots. As for cleaning it before you prime, you can use regular old soap and water (just a bit- nothing that’s dripping wet) and be sure to let it dry before you begin sanding. As for the type of paint, I would just pick a nice rich chocolate brown latex paint (Benjamin Moore’s Coconut Grove is nice) and use a semi-gloss finish for durability, wipe-ability, and to mimic the sheen of sealed wood (no need for polyurethane on this project since it won’t be around food and semi-gloss is easily maintained in an entryway). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
shantel says
and…
The color that is on the dresser now is very shiney, so i will be sandpapering it before I prime it.
What do you recommend cleaning the piece with before I apply the primer? Soap and water or another solution? Thanks a lot!!!
Shantel says
Thank You!! Do I sandpaper inbetween primer and the paint?? Or just at the beginning, before priming?
THANKS AGAIN!!
YoungHouseLove says
Shantel,
No need to sand between primer and paint, just before primer. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Ana says
Hi Sherry,
I am planning to tackle a large dinning table into the colour painting process. I read carefully all your instructions and I am very glad that I found this. I was actually thinking of taking all the steps you mentioned, but I thought I should do oil based paint. Although the color I want to use a not found in oil base. So using latex is much better. So you mentioned a sherwin williams decorator’s paint, is that a kind of paint that one can use a pigment on? Also, I want my table to be super shiny and professionally looking, almost like a lacquered piece. Do you think I can achive that? I am planning to buying really good brushes for this job and am generally good with the brush, just not sure if I can achieve a super glossy, smooth (no streaks) finish that I am dreaming of. Or should I leave this to a professional? The table 7′ long and 48″ wide, so it would be a major undertaking. I am a bit intimidated by this project…. any words of wisdom, courage?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Ana,
Benjamin Moore’s Decorators White can actually be made with an oil base so you’re in luck (they’ll just mix it using a can of oil-based paint instead of the regular latex base). The only thing to think about with oil-based paint is that you’d want to select a semi-gloss or even a gloss finish and there will be no need to follow it with polyurethane (water-based poly over oil-based paint would be baaaaad). Oil-based paint also takes a bit longer to dry so you’ll have to be careful not to mar the finish for about a week (no putting anything on the table for a while) but once it’s dry it’s very polished and durable- a great choice for a large dining table! The oil-based paint will also give you that shiny almost lacquered look so you’re in luck. You can do it! Good luck…
xo,
s
Priscilla says
Sherry, I recently painted my cabinets white and applied a THIN THIN THIN clear coat of polyurethane as you guys suggested, but a week later and guess what?! Its all yellow-ish. I’m soooooo bummed. Where do I go from here? =( Do you think I can just paint over it or must I start from square one again? Please advise. =(
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Priscilla,
Ack! When it comes to cabinets, no poly is necessary, just semi-gloss latex paint after one thin and even coat of oil based primer (poly can get yellow, so it’s too risky when it comes to cabinets). You can see a step by step cabinet painting tutorial right here (on our How To page). As for correcting the yellow tinge, we’d suggest sanding down the poly with 100 grit sandpaper and then just applying one more thin and even coat of semi-gloss paint. You can do it!
xo,
s
heather says
Hello Sherry,
I have an entertainment center with two bookshelves flanking each side that I am attempting to paint the decorator’s white as you suggested. I am a relative novice when it comes to paining, so I have the comfort of the piece being in my children’s playroom if I mess up too bad. Here are my questions: 1. The piece has solid (pine-light stain) wood front and accents, but matching veneer shelves and sides. How do I prime? Lowe’s suggested a solid white primer (Zessner’s brand Bulls-eye water based primer). They said I would not want to try to sand the veneer and this should do the trick. Do you agree? 2. What Benjamin Moore Decorator’s white should I use, specifically and what quantity would I need for the piece which is 7′ tall x 11′ wide x 3′ deep (including bookshelves)? 3. Any other tips?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Heather,
Using oil-based Zinzer or Kilz primer will do the trick (don’t grab anything water based no matter what they sat at Lowe’s). You might as well pick up a gallon and roll it on, using a brush to get into corners and crannies (and keep the rest of it around for future projects). Then just grab a gallon of BM’s Decorators White since you’ll probably use about half that on the entertainment center and you’ll want to keep it around for future projects and touch ups (and a quart won’t be enough). Oh and be sure it’s semi-gloss and don’t apply any polyurethane- it’s optional for dining tables and such, but semi-gloss paint should do the trick in your case. Hope it helps! You can do it!
xo,
s
Stewart P. says
Hey you guys! I love your site and your spot in R*Home!
I picked up an ugly dresser from Goodwill the other day and its solid wood with veneer on the outsides. I have never painted veneer before, should I just sand/prime/paint like regular wood? My fear is that the drawers will stick closed well after the surfaces are dry. I painted a bookshelf years ago and all my books stuck to the semi-gloss paint on the shelves!
Thanks!!
Stew
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Stew,
Veneer is a toughie. Unless it’s splintering or rough I would actually refrain from sanding it and just apply one very thin coat of oil-based primer, allow that to dry completely, and then apply two very very very thin and even coats of semi-gloss latex paint. The idea is that the paint won’t go on thick so it will dry quickly for a stick-free finish. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Robin Clayton says
I love your information. Just got back from Walmart where I wanted to get supplies. However, in Minwax, they only had the water-based polyacrylic (as opposed to polyurethane). Is this the same?
Thanks!
Robin
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Robin,
Yup, if you look at step four it’s actually called Polycrylic (we just call it poly or polyurethane since that’s typically what it’s called). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Catherine says
Hi Youngsters!
I have a similar question as the poster above. I have an old chest of drawers that is solid wood with veneer over it. It’s all intact and actually a pretty color, but the veneer at the top has chipped off in some places. I’d like to paint the whole thing off-white to match the nightstand I just got at These Four Walls.
So, what’s a girl to do? Should I take the rest of the veneer off of the top of the dresser, down to the bare wood, and then paint it all? Or should I take all of the veneer off the entire thing and paint it all? Oil based primer for everything? Also, how do you recommend finding paint to match? Just taking in a drawer from the bedside table?
Thanks again, y’all!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Catherine,
Every scenario is different and we can’t be sure what will be the best route for you to take without seeing your piece in the flesh, but if you can remove a drawer and bring it to a paint professional at Home Depot or Lowe’s they should be able to help you. My guess would be that if you could strip all the veneer and get down to bare wood (that’s smooth and good condition) that’s your best bet. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Charlene Bergan says
I am following all your directions for a desk that will be in my 13 year old daughter’s room. Do you think I will need to use the polycrylic? I am worried about the top of it getting ruined from doing homework etc.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Charlene,
I would actually recommend getting a piece of plexi-glass cut for the top of your daughter’s desk. It’s really not much of an investment but it protects the desk for years and looks great. Here’s a post about doing that for a desk that we painted and restored for John’s nieces room (check out the comments for even more info about it). So sweet!
https://www.younghouselove.com/2008/10/olivias-design-dilemma-solved/
Then of course you can pass on the poly. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Eric Howard says
My wife and I just purchased a dresser that we thought was wood, but it is veneer. The dresser has scratches and some groves on the top of it. The rest is in great condition. It is a dark brown stain and we want to paint it black. We were going to sand it, but now I’m not sure we should. If we paint it how should we go about it and would it be better to spray or paint it with a brush?? The dresser is very contemporary with straight clean lines. Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Eric,
I wouldn’t sand it at all, since veneer doesn’t take well to sanding and can crack or detach from the piece. I’d suggest using one coat of high quality oil-based primer and a few coats of latex semi-gloss paint for a shiny and wipable finish. Definitely use a high quality brush to apply the primer and paint unless you’re a spray paint expert (it can come out splotchy and drippy unless you’re well versed at that sort of application). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Steph says
I painted a table with latex primer and two coats of semi gloss per directions from Lowes. The table is still sticky a week later. Do I have to strip it all the way back down and start over with an oil based primer? Will applying a poly sealer at this point fix the problem?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Steph,
Man oh man, oil-based primer probably would have nipped this issue in the bud. Your best bet is to sand everything down and apply a thin and even coat if oil-based primer followed by two thin coats of latex semi-gloss paint. Then be sure to only use a small thin layer or two of the exact poly that we recommend above once the paint is totally dry (like a glaze- nothing too thick) for wipe-able protection since it’s a table (we assume it’ll get some regular use). The main key is thin and even coats and waiting long enough for things to dry (but it certainly shouldn’t be sticky a week later!).
xo,
s
dan says
how do you apply the paint with a brush without leaving the paint strokes? I doesn’t seem like it wants to come out smooth..
Thanks
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Dan,
Just use a high quality brush and apply thin and even coats of paint. There might be small brushstrokes as the paint goes on but it will dry with a seamless finish and look (whereas rollers rile up the paint and can often leave bubbles or prickles in the paint). The main key is not to use too much paint and not to go over spots after you’ve applied paint (touching up areas a few minutes later drags the paint and causes smudges and brushstrokes). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
marissa says
Hey Guys,
I have a table that I would like to paint white. It was previously a stained piece but the poly urethane on the top is so thick. i tried to remove the stain but some of that poly are still stuck like hard plastic and some of the wood veneer came off in some areas. Should I try to put wood putty on some of the gauge out places ? how about the rest of the poly that is still stuck. it is as thick as 1 mm.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Marissa,
Prepping is the most important step, so don’t grab the paint or the primer until your surface is as smooth as possible. I would do whatever it takes to get things looking better (wood putty, scraping, sanding with an electric sander, etc). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Sara says
I have found a pair of twin beds I’d like to paint for my daughter. They are a dark stain and I follow sanding and then priming with oil before painting with latex. My question is in the sheen…I want the beds to hold up and not have alot of chipping but I am afraid a semi gloss will be too shiny. I got a quote this morning to have them done “professionally” and she said she uses paste wax after the last coat. What are your thoughts on this and suggestions for the best possible finish? Thanks so much!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Sara,
I’ve never used paste wax but I’d guess it would have about the same sheen as semi-gloss so if you go with semi-gloss you can DIY it and it’ll look great! It always seems like it’ll be super shiny, but it’ll look lovely (we use semi gloss on all of our furniture projects). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Erin says
Hi there,
First of all, thanks for all the tips. Secondly, I’m glad I was reading this tonight . . . I think I maybe caught a mistake prior to botching a paint job I just got started on earlier this evening.
I just started step one tonight–I sanded and primed a vanity/desk–but unfortunately I used a latex based primer. It sounds like I should rush out tomorrow and purchase an oil-based primer and go over it with that instead . . . so my question is if so, do I need to sand all the latex primer off (ugh) before applying the new oil-based variety or can I just roll it right over like a second coat of paint(but in this case primer instead) and THEN start with my latex paint coats??
Also, have you ever used high gloss paint versus the semi-gloss or is the extra-lacquered modern look of this not worth it (or not your taste). (I’ve heard the higher the gloss, the easier it is for flaws to show.)
I’ve also read others’ commentaries on other blogs about latex paint causing stickiness–so it was probably just the latex PRIMER that was the problem after all? . . . very good to know. I was worried about all the oil based paint fumes since I don’t have the most well-ventilated apartment to work in.
Also, do you have any advice for changing the stain on a piece of already finished wood furniture? A how-to on this topic would be excellent as well.
Thanks!!
Erin
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Erin,
Yup, I’d just go over all that latex primer with a thin coat of oil-based primer and hopefully it won’t be all tacky and sticky. It might not hurt to sand it a bit before applying stuff over it since the combination of latex and oil might still allow some of the latex stickiness to come through but hopefully a bit of sanding plus a thin even coat of oil-based will do the trick. Oh and since it is very stinky (and full of VOCs), priming it outside or even in a friend’s garage is always recommended as opposed to using oil-based paint in your apartment.
As for high gloss, we love love love it. It’s true that it does show a bit more flaws (but paint never hides flaws, it always accentuates them) so they’re only marginally more obvious than using a semi-gloss and proper prepping of the piece can result in a gorgeous finish. As for a staining tutorial, that’s definitely on our to-do list. Stay tuned…
xo,
s
Erin says
Thank you!! Happy Independence Day!
Erin
Fred says
Is an alkyd primer considered an “oil based” primer similar to the kind you are recommending?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Fred,
Yup, alkyd primers are oil-based, but they’re more often just called oil-based (for example, Kilz primer says oil-based or water-based on the can so we suggest going with the oil-based for more protection and durability. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Tracy says
I have a old cedar chest my Aunt gave me years ago. I’d like to paint it, any suggestion on how to do it so it looks nice. I’d like it to match my bedroom set which is a med. cherry brown
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Tracy,
I would actually stain it to match (you can find the perfect cherry stain at Home Depot or Lowe’s with instructions right on the can). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Janet says
I just purchased a used night stand that was sand blasted. I was going to use a product called liquid sand paper, then follow your instructions to use a oil based primer followed by a semi-gloss. I was going to roll on the paint but now think I should get a good quality paint brush, am I on the right track?
Thanks
Janet
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Janet,
Yup, you’re definitely on the right track. I would use a high quality paint brush and just remember to do thin and even coats, wait for them to dry thoroughly, and don’t go back and touch up something you painted a minute ago or you’ll get brushstrokes! As you paint things will also appear to have brushstrokes, but as things dry they’ll disappear if you do things thin and even and give them ample drying time between applications. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Kelly says
HELP!!! I was making such good progress with a dresser re-do. I sanded, filled the old drawer hardware holes with filler, primed with oil based primer, and just finished my second thin coat of latex paint.
I primed Tuesday morning, did my first coat of paint Wednesday night, and just finished the second earlier tonight. The problem is this – as hard as I tried to have no brush strokes, etc… I am just not 100% happy with the finish right now. I am thinking that had I went with a paint sprayer it would have been more seemless, and since this is the first piece of several that I am re-doing, I want it to be right. Can I let this coat dry over night, and tomorrow night go the paint sprayer route for a totally seemeless/brush stroke free coat? I really don’t want to go backwards, so repeating any steps (sanding, primer, etc…)would just not be a good thing. Any advice is so appreciated!!!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Kelly,
I think following things up when they’re totally dry tomorrow with a paint sprayer is a genius idea! Just be sure to keep the nozzle far enough away to get a nice thin and even coat to avoid drips which are just as bad as brushstrokes. You can do it! Good luck…
xo,
s
Kelly says
Thanks so much Sherry! Quick question – would you give the piece a light manual sanding with a finer sand paper, like a 220 or so, before spraying?
Thanks again,
Kelly
YoungHouseLove says
That certainly couldn’t hurt! Just be sure to do it pretty evenly for a similar texture on the entire piece. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
meg says
i can’t decide between semi-gloss and gloss pain for a furniture redo (dresser for the bedroom). i definitely want a laquered look – but am planning on doing two coats of poly as well. will gloss get to be too shiny? i want a nice sheen…but not a discoball! thanks guys!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Meg,
I would describe semi-gloss as a nice sheen (light bounces off of it and it looks like it glistens) while gloss is a bit more shiny and almost looks like a lacquer. It’s really your preference and in some lights it’s a barely distinguishable difference so you really can’t go wrong either way!
xo,
s
meg says
and i meant “paint” not “pain”…i think i’ll pass on semi-gloss and gloss pain for now. ha.
Katie Jackson says
Hello!
I would just like to start by saying that I love what you guys have done to your house. It is an amazing (and inspiring)transformation. I stumbled across your website doing some of my own research on reworking a dresser, and I am addicted :).
I was looking at pictures of your cute dog, Burger, and I noticed, among the mountain of pillows he enjoys lounging in, the white (ish) pillows with a tree pattern on them. I love trees and those pillows are extremely ideal for couch pillows I would like to have in my home. I was wondering where you made that purchase/found that design?
Also, for my dresser revamp project I am considering stenciling/drawing a nice, elegant-looking tree on the side of it. If you have any advice about how to put detailed personal touches on furniture pieces that would be greatly appreciated :). Thanks so much and keep doing what you’re doing!!
Katie
YoungHouseLove says
hey Katie,
So glad you found your way to our site! The pillows are from Ikea but they’re no longer sold there so you might try ebay. And as for stenciling or drawing details on your furniture, we like to use chalk to draw a design that can easily be wiped or painted over. You can search “chalk it up” in our sidebar to go to a post with more details about that. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Ann Betty says
I waqnt to paint a piece of furniture this has a high very high gloss varnish on it now.
I will paint it with a high gloss again. Will the method described on this web site work on high gloss?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Ann Betty,
Definitely giving it a gentle sanding before applying the oil-based primer is a great idea. Then just follow the method above and it should work perfectly. High gloss tends to show brush strokes a bit though, so be sure to apply thin and even coats and not go over any area a second time until it’s 100% dry. Hope it helps! Good luck…
xo,
s
Maria says
Hello! I found your website through my cousin’s blog, who must also be a fan and I am hooked. I have an interior design degree, but do mostly corporate facilities management, so your website really helps me keep inspiration for true design.
I just painted two vintage dressers that I picked up off craigslist and although I’m in love with the glossy black paint and follow all the right steps, even waiting 3 days for paint to dry I’m still finding the the surfaces to be tacky and everything I set on top is sticking and drawers are sticking as well. Is there any solution to this? I live in Seattle so we really don’t have humidity like back in VA. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Maria
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Maria,
Hmm, I think the fact that things are sticking means it’s not quite dry, perhaps because it’s super glossy black paint. I would just suggest giving it a while longer to dry (perhaps the weather out there makes it take a bit longer) and only placing things on the dressers when they no longer appear to stick. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Belinda says
How does one avoid the paint “glop” at the edges/ends of a piece? Do you have a particular brand of brush that you prefer? Does the oil based primer require a different kind of brush than the latex paint? Thanks so much! Belinda
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Belinda,
We just like a high quality angled brush from Lowe’s or Home Depot and applying less paint (thin even coats) is always the way to go. So instead of coating the piece that you’re painting in one go, we like to do two thin coats- sometimes even three to avoid drips and brush strokes. It’s also important to catch those “glops” if they do form by brushing over them right away. Because discovering them later and trying to brush over them once they begin to dry will create a smeared and messy look. All in all, less is more when it comes to paint application and slow and steady wins the race! Hope it helps. Oh and any good brush can be used on oil-based primer or latex paint, it just has to be thoroughly cleaned between uses to keep it up to snuff. And if your brush gets a bit worse for wear over time, replacing it with something fresh and new can really cut down on brush strokes and imperfections. Good luck!
xo,
s
Belinda says
How does one remove adhesive residue from the stickers my daughter put on the surfaces of her pine desk? I’m planning to paint the desk following your instructions but don’t know the best way to remove the residue – sanding? goo gone? something else? The finish on the desk is Cargo oil – no stain or paint. I’m concerned that a goo gone like product will leave a residue that might inhibit a good paint finish.
Thanks!
Belinda
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Belinda,
Good question. So good in fact that we don’t know the answer! Other than trying to google and find some advice, maybe you can also visit Home Depot or Benjamin Moore and ask the paint professionals there what they recommend. Of course if you use goo gone to get rid of the residue and then sand everything down to remove any trace of goo gone you’ll probably be safe, especially since the oil-based primer should block it from coming through anyway. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Andrea says
Hi Young House Love! I love your blog and check it several times daily. You guys do such cool things and are a great source of inspiration. I’m in the middle of refurbishing an old dresser and am following your instructions. I’ve applied one coat of oil-based primer and am wondering if there is any value in applying a 2nd coat? Would it help give a better base for the paint or would I just be wasting my time? The reason that I would consider doing it is because in sanding and getting rid of the existing finish, it’s become obvious that the material is a mix of wood and manmade “stuff” and I want to give my upcoming paint job the best chance for a good finish that I can. Thanks for your help and keep up the GREAT work!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Andrea,
You usually only need one thin coat of primer to make the surfact “sticky” enough to grab paint, but in your case why not add one more thin coat in an attempt to better even those different materials out. Hope it helps! Thin is definitely the key so it dries.
xo,
s
Rebecca says
Hey YoungHouseLove! So impressed with all of the projects that you have tackled, and LOVE the results! In reading about your advice for painting cabinets and furniture, you mention using an oil-based primer. What brand do you suggest?
Thanks, and keep up the AMAZING work!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Rebecca,
We usually just grab Kilz and it does the trick. Of course be sure to grab the oil-based one and not the water-based one by accident. Good luck…
xo,
s