Whether you’re interested in painting a chair, a table, or any other wooden piece of furniture, the steps are pretty much the same.
Take this table that we built and subsequently painted along with the accompanying white chairs (which used to be a golden blond wood tone).
Sprucing things up with a fresh coat of white paint took them from thrift store (where we got the table base) to Pottery Barn (which sells a similar version of it for 500 beans) in just a few hours.
But enough jibber-jabber. On with the how-to deets:
Step 1- Evaluate the surface of the piece that you’d like to paint. If it’s a sleek glossy surface (like varnished or sealed wood) you’ll want to gently sand the entire piece with 100 grit sandpaper). If it’s more of a dry chalky texture (like unfinished wood or flat paint) you can forgo the sandpaper and skip right to step two.
Step 2- Break out the oil-based primer to ensure that the paint sticks and no stains come through and ruin your finish (we’ve also used Zinsser Smart Prime with great success, which is a low-VOC stain-blocking primer that’s not oil-based – so it’s less stinky). Give the entire piece a good once over with a small foam roller or a paint brush. This coat of primer doesn’t have to be perfectly even in tone (it’ll probably look thinner in some areas since that’s how primer rolls) but as long as the entire piece is well covered – and it’s not too gloppy and thick – it’s ready for step three once it dries.
Step 3- Use a fresh small foam roller or paint brush to apply two thin and even coats of latex paint (a semi-gloss finish is usually best since it’s nice a wipe-able and durable choice). Many people mistakenly think that latex paint isn’t supposed to be applied over oil-based primer, but the real painting no-no is applying latex paint over oil-based paint, which is a guaranteed bubble-fest and should be avoided at all costs. And a word about small foam rollers vs. brushes: according to experts, all rollers – especially if used too quickly- may rile up the paint and lead to bubbles while paint brushes are the most bubble free application method known to man (although you might have brush stroke issues if the paint isn’t applied thinly enough or given ample drying time between coats).
We painted the table above with a paint brush, not a roller. But we have also used small foam rollers with great success, so those are actually our recommended choice for beginners since they cut down on brush strokes or drippy finishes and seem to be the most error proof. No matter what you use, be sure to wait until the first coat of paint is thoroughly dry before applying a second coat (each coat should be applied super lightly and evenly – aim for the thickness of an eggshell or a piece of paper). This thin application is the key to avoiding brush strokes or roller marks for a smooth, gorgeous finish. Repeat after me: three or even four super thin coats are far better than one or two thick and drippy ones!
Step 4- This step is optional, so think of it as extra credit. Brushing on two thin and even coats of water-based poly for wipe-able protection that really goes the extra mile (and provides a glossy oh-so-luxe sheen) can’t hurt if you pick the right stuff. The only two brands that we’ve ever used with unmatched success are these two, so they’re our strong recommendation (other types can yellow or crack over time):
- Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish in “Clear Gloss” (found at any home improvement center)
- Safecoat Acrylacq (which is a low-VOC, non-toxic alternative sold at eco boutiques or online at places like greendepot.com)
We went the extra mile and applied poly to our white table above for a bit of added protection, and we even thinly polyed the chairs since they need to be just as easy to wipe down due to their proximity to food whenever we dine in the sunroom. Thin is definitely the operative word, and again you’ll want to be sure to let the first coat thoroughly dry before going in for the second. Any time you go over semi-wet paint or poly to smooth things out you’ll get terrible drag marks, so work from one side to the other and never go back over things until they’re completely dry.
Step 5- Wait at least a full 72 hours to place objects on your newly painted piece to avoid dents or divots in your finish. If you really want to be on the safe side, we’d recommend waiting five full days. Sometimes factors like humidity and primer/paint/poly thickness can keep things from fully curing up, and you don’t want to get indents from using your newly painted piece too quickly. Waiting this long might take some willpower because you’re dying to sit on/eat on/enjoy your brand new piece, but it’s worth the wait. Promise.
Easy, right? Ok, those were a lot of words, so it might sound complicated. But just take things one step at a time. And remember to breathe. You can totally do it. There’s really no reason to live with wood furniture that’s not exactly the tone or the shade that you’d like. So from painting an old side table a handsome glossy black to giving a scratched up wooden chair a cheerful red tone, it’s definitely a project that you can confidently tackle in an afternoon. Go forth and paint something!
*Oh and it bears noting that if your furniture item is anything other than solid wood or veneered wood (like laminate, melamine, etc) you should visit your local hardware store and ask the paint pro there what they recommend for that surface. There are some great oil-based primers and enamel paints out there (which are changing all the time) so it might be possible to get a great result. The key is really roughing up the surface so it’s less glossy and then priming and painting with the best stuff they have (usually oil or enamel based).Good luck!
Psst- In the market for a quick cabinet painting tutorial? Look no further.
Psssst- Wondering how to paint a brick fireplace? Wonder no more.
Pssssssst- Itching to paint wood paneling? Try this.
Casey says
Hi guys! Thanks for the instructions on re-finishing. I am about to do my kitchen table and hutch. It is currently a “blonde” wood, and I’m going to do it either black or white. (I am thinking black because I have kids. The kitchen table ends up being the place for coloring/pumpkin carving/smearing jelly everywhere. I love white but think it would get thrashed too quickly…)
Anyway, I really love a cottage/vintage look and am thinking about distressing the egdes of my table after painting it. Do you think that would look good? Would I do this before or after the polyurethane? Any tips for distressing?
Thanks so much!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Casey,
Good question! I would definitely prime it and then paint it black and then sand the edges a bit to make them a little distressed and then follow it all up with a few thin coats of poly after the distressing to “seal” it all. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
meg says
am getting toward the end of a long furniture refinishing project – i’ve done one coat of poly and it looks great. do i need to do two? i am admittedly ready to be done with this project so i can get the furniture back in the house, but i don’t want to slack at the end and regret it later…thoughts?
y’all are the best. thanks for all of the help!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Meg,
It’s official. You’re done! Sometimes it’s best to quit while you’re ahead and if it looks awesome we’d suggest putting down your brush and letting it thoroughly dry for a few days. Congrats on a paint job well done!
xo,
s
Linda Thacker says
I painted a chest black using Sherwin Williams All Surface Enamel Oilbase Gloss.
I explained to the helper at the store I did not want the chest to have a shinny finish. She said it would have a slight sheen when it dried, but it is very shinny and I do not like the look. Is there a satin poly I could follow up with that would dull down the shine or can I use a matt over the gloss coat?? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Linda,
You have two good ideas there. You can either pick up a satin poly and give it a few thin coats for a more matte look, or you can sand the gloss a bit with 120 grit paper and paint one or two more thin coats of flat latex paint for a less shiny finish. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Page says
We picked up a headboard at the local thrift store. Went by Lowe’s for paint material and advice. The headboard may be made of some type of laminate. We sanded, applied primer, painted a thin 1st coat. However, it seemed to take an inordinate amount of time to dry in the hot, humid Georgia weather. Because of the intricate design of the headboard, there were a few paint runs which we were going to sandpaper out before applying the final coat. When we sanded, the paint peeled up in places all the way to the original laminate. What do we do now?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Page,
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but the peeling that you describe might mean that you have to resand everything down and start over. With laminate surfaces it’s important never to sand once you apply paint, so the best way to avoid drips is to paint very thin and even coast since you don’t really get a do-over with sanding if any of them dry in place. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Rachel says
I just started refinishing a dinning room table and chair set. I have a side chair from the set that I started first to make sure everything would come out looking how I wanted. I sanded it down, stained the seat and primed and painted the back rest and legs. I live in Florida though and it is incredibly humid and even thought I have been doing this inside nothing seems to be drying! It has been 2 weeks since I put on the last thin coat of paint and everything is just sticky! Will this be fixed with a coating of polyurethane? Also is light sanding required or recommended before applying the polyurethane?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Rachel,
I would go ahead and apply a very thin coat of polyurethane (the exact kind recommended above is the best option- no pre-sanding necessary) in the hope that everything will dry and be more protected. Definitely give that a few more days to dry before use. And it always helps to have windows open and fans going for maximum ventilation. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Rita says
Hi,
I just painted an old cabinet. I primed it first with water based white primer. Then I tried painting over it with latex black paint. It barley covered it with the first coat of black and after the second it is peeling off at the touch. It is still tacky after 2 days. What did I do wrong? I tried sanding down one of the doors to experiment on again. Any suggestions?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Rita,
I’d guess that the issue was the water-based primer. We always use oil-based for even more protection, and it always seems to dry thoroughly to allow for great paint coverage and a polished finished product. I’d suggest sanding everything down a bit, putting on one thin coat of oil-based primer and following that with two or three super thin and even coats of latex paint. Of course allowing things to thoroughly dry between coats of paint are key to getting a good finish and ending up with something that isn’t tacky to the touch for days. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Christina says
Hi youngsters:
Any tips on staining furniture? I’d like to stain a dresser and two night stands a dark expresso brown but have no idea where to start. I would assume it would be similar to painting…have any tips?
Thank you!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Christina! We think gel stains are the easiest to work with. There are many to choose from, so visiting your local Home Depot and talking to their paint professional should get you started. Beyond that, it is very similar to painting so you should have a great result – especially when you’re doing a dark espresso! Hope that helps!
-John
Katie says
My boyfriend stained his wooden dresser a darker color, and it looks really nice but it has been drying for a couple of days and it is still kind of sticky. Should we continue to wait on the drying process or should we try to coat it with something (like polyurethane)? Please help!
btw, i love your site!
Katie
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Katie,
I have a feeling you guys might not have rubbed off enough stain during the staining process (it should be brushed on but rubbed off with a rag so it’s not sitting there too thickly (which can cause the drying issue you describe). But fear not, the best solution is to apply one or two thin coats of poly (just be sure it’s one that can be applied over stain- I would check with the paint experts at Home Depot to be sure). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Beth says
Hey, guys! I am finally trying to tackle the project that brought me to you in the first place – painting a thrift store armoire.
At this point, I have sanded the original finish, filled areas that needed it/sanded those and applied the oil-based Kilz. Per your instructions, I used a brush for the detail work and a 4″ non-foam roller for the rest. I let it dry a few hours and went back to find that the whole thing is as rough as sand paper!
Not sure what went wrong. I did a thin, even coat of the primer with the roller, but I am definitely going to have to sand the whole thing again to knock down this texture. Before I move on to painting the latex, I wanted to get your thoughts…should I just forget the roller and get a high-quality brush for the latex? Would several coats from the roller have filled in the texture enough to make it smoother or just made it worse?!
Thanks! ~Beth
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Beth,
I would definitely ditch the roller, sand a bit, and use a brush for the whole application. It might take a bit more time but it sounds like the roller was getting the primer all prickly and textured where a brush will keep things smooth. Of course with primer it’s not as smooth and fluid as paint (the idea is that it’s a bit tacky so paint “sticks” to it) but it definitely shouldn’t be rough as you describe. Hope it helps! Good luck…
xo,
s
Rachel says
What about painting an old vanity? Have you ever done this? We have an old, oak one that’d I’d love to paint a chocolaty-brown (and maybe distress it a bit, but I have no idea how to do this!!) :)
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Rachel,
Same exact steps as outlined above, just sand the last coat of latex paint a bit to expose the primer or even the original wood and either leave it at that or apply a thin coat or two of polyurethan to “seal” it all. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Nancy says
I am so glad to have found your web site. I am attempting to repaint 3 barstools that I originally bought white, used Zinsser BIN primer and then painted with a latex red paint. They were covered with drips and spots. I painted them with a brush and roller. I am now sanding them to get rid of spots. Do I need to re-prim them? Also, I bought a paint sprayer to hopefully avoid drips and spots, but is this a mistake? I am overwhelmed at this point and confused.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Nancy,
Don’t be overwhelmed! Its simple:
1. Sand down all those drip and spots as you mentioned you would be doing.
2. Make sure your primer is oil-based and not water-based (and if it’s not go get something oil-based)
3. Apply one thin coat with a paint brush (even if it looks uneven, that’s fine- primer just helps paint stick)
4. Apply two-three thin coats of latex paint with a paint brush. Make sure each coat is dry before starting on the next one and
go over drips as they arise (don’t leave them be a while and then go back and touch them up because that causes brushstrokes)
Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Leesa says
Help!!
We have two chest of drawers. We have sanded them, kilz primed them painted them with an off white latex paint and applied a thin coat of polyurethen. Not they are yellowing after just a few hours. Any suggestions.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Leesa,
Did you use the poly that we specifically mentioned by name above? That seems to be one of the better ones when it comes to yellowing (as in, there isn’t a trace of yellow- we’ve painted snow white tables and chairs with it with success). If so, perhaps your coat was just too thick or applied too rapidly (the second coat went one before the first one had a chance to dry). The only solution is to sand things down a bit and do one last coat of paint. And you may decide to forgo the poly altogether if you’re using semi-gloss paint (which is still wipeble) so there’s zero chance of yellowing. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
danielle says
What an amazing resource – thank you! This website has inspired me to take on projects I never thought possible!!
But a quick question first – do you usually prime/paint your furniture pieces outside? I figure that’s the best place to avoid the fumes and to allow enough space, but I’m afraid of leaves/petals falling into the paint job and creating (unwanted) imperfections!
Thanks for all your advice!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Danielle,
If at all possible we’re huge proponents of priming and painting in a well ventilated outdoor space. In our case we love to use the garage with a drop cloth and the door open so we don’t have to deal with falling leaves but still have nice breezes to keep us from getting to high on the fumes! If you don’t have a garage, setting up a tarp or a flat piece of cardboard in a clearing (without a ton of trees overhead) will cut down on little things dropping into your paint job. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Danielle says
Thanks so much! But now a new dilemma… I sent my fiance to pick up the primer for the dresser re-do (specifying oil-based and a quality brush), and he returned with water-based and a cheap brush because the Paint Guy said so! Argh!
I’m planning to lightly sand the dresser and apply one coat of oil-based primer – is that the right solution? Or should I still go with two coats? Thanks again!!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Danielle,
One thin and even coat of oil-based primer followed by two thin and even coats of latex paint should do the trick. Good luck!
xo,
s
monica says
Thank you! I cant wait to get starting painting my nursery furniture! The furniture Im painting has a spotty flat paint or primer that the last owner gave up on finishing. In this case just 1 thin coat of oil-based primer, 2 thin coats of latex paint, and a final thin coat of minwax, right?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Monica,
You probably can get away with just using semi-gloss latex paint (two thin coats) and skipping the Minwax since so a few people have complained about experiencing the yellowing of their pieces if they don’t apply the exact stuff we recommend super thinly and evenly. Although that’s what we do whenever we paint things and it still looks great so it’s really an optional step- think of it as extra credit!
xo,
s
Noreen says
Thank you for the advice about using a brush instead of a roller. Our buffet is flawless. BUT- it was finished 6 days ago and still feels tacky. Any thoughts…we’re scared to put anything on it!!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Noreen,
Definitely just wait it out! Sometimes paint (especially in warm summer months) takes its time, so to keep things flawless for years to come it will pay to wait a few more days and maybe even another whole week- the worst is putting things down and a week later realizing that they’ve “stuck” and made dents!
xo,
s
Amy says
I painted an old thrift store table–cheap blonde wood–that I had sanded lightly. I didn’t use a primer (oh no!) but someone had told me to use oil-based paint, so now it has 2 coats of satin oil based paint on it–looks great and isn’t sticky. I guess from what you have said that I should have gone 1. oil-based primer 2. latex paint 3. water-based poly
Since I didn’t find your advice first, what should I do? Can I put the poly finish that you recommend over my oil-based paint? Thanks.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Amy,
It sounds like your method worked out! I would skip the poly since the oil based paint should do the trick! Congrats!
xo,
s
Amy says
Okay, thanks. I just wondered if it still needed protection from scratches and water marks–do you think the oil-based is durable enough?
YoungHouseLove says
Nope the oil based should do the trick on it’s own.
s
Ami says
Hi there. Love the blog! Thanks for all the advice and inspiration.
I picked up a side table at a garage sale a few weeks ago, and am planning to paint it a white or cream color. Do I need to strip the finish using a chemical stripper, or will sanding be sufficient? I’m very new to this, and am not sure if sandpaper and furniture stripper essentially do the same thing. Thanks for any help you can give!
YoungHouseLove says
Unless the paint is lumpy or chipping you just need oil-based primer as outlined by the tutorial above. It makes for a great foundation then just apply the paint in thin and even layers. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
erin says
i have been working on some end tables for about 2 weeks now. i lightly sanded them down with fine sandpaper, primed them with a good oil base paint, and then sprayed on the final 2 coats (this spray is the color and satin finish that i realy like). everything looks perfect except the table tops. they are gritty, rough, and spotty. i have since then repeated these steps a number of times trying to get a smooth finish, to no avail. i don’t know what i am doing so wrong. please HELP!
YoungHouseLove says
Eeeks! Oil-based paint followed by latex paint is a no no. I’m hoping you meant oil-based primer and that’s just a typo. Is that the case? If so, I have no idea what the problem with the table tops is (perhaps bringing them to a paint professional near you at Home Depot or Ben Moore might help?), but if it’s not a typo, it’s definitely the oil-based paint interfering with the sprayed final coats (since oil paint should never be followed by latex paint). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
erin says
oh dear. ok well i was told when i bought the spray paint that ALL spray paint is oil based. no?
so where do i go from here? do you suggest sanding it all down and starting fresh?
YoungHouseLove says
Uh oh, most spray paint is latex based unless otherwise indicated (for example, Kilz Spray Primer can be oil-based but almost all other spray paints are latex). We would definitely recommend sanding everything down and following the steps in this post to the letter (oil-based primer followed by two thin and even coats of latex paint applied with a brush). Hope it helps! Oh and be sure to let each coat dry thoroughly before moving on to the next one! Good luck…
xo,
s
A says
Hi,
Thanks for the tutorial! Any tips on how to clean the oil based primer off the brush (and my hands!). I know that I turpenoid would do the trick for oil paints, but I don’t have any in the house now. Do you think any household cleaning products would work? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
We always use mineral spirits or turpenoid so we’re unsure if any household cleaners will do the trick. Maybe nail polish remover? My best suggestion would be to head out and get something meant for the job, since you might lose your paint brush if you can’t properly clean it asap. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Dana says
I LOVE your site and all your fabulous ideas!
I’ve been staring at our honey stained dining set for too long so now I feel empowered to tackle it with paint! My question….I have dark cabinets, wood flooring and stainless appliances. Our walls are ‘blonde’ by Sherwin-Williams. I’m thinking black with a nice cushion for the chairs to tie it all together. What do you think?
Thanks for sharing your talent with us!
YoungHouseLove says
Agreed! Black will be lovely and dramatic and a nice cushion will help to make everything even more cohesive. Good luck!
xo,
s
Jim Mahoney says
I used your method of painting my dining set and it turned out great, I have dining chairs that have an open small cain look [small holes]. I am afraid that if I use a brush it might fill some of the tiny openings with paint. How should I proceed? Can I spray the chairs? If so what do you recommend? Thanks Jim
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Jim,
Glad to hear that it worked so well! As for the caned chairs, I would definitely use spray paint if you can. Rustoleum makes some great stuff that sticks really well, just remember to do verrrrry thin and even coats from about 8″ away from the chairs (three or four thin ones are much better than one drippy one). You can even use Kilz oil-based spray primer to prep them (just one thin and even coat of that should do). Oh and do everything outside or in the garage with the door open if you can. It’s suuuuper fumey and stinky, but it works like a charm. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Nika says
I am so excited to find this blog. I discovered while look for tips to paint my dining room table and I must confess I have spent way too long checking everything out. I love DIY projects just don’t have much experience so I am learning a lot. I have two questions. First, can I just use any old latex paint? Like a Behr semi-gloss or satin? Also, I have heard that water based poly-urethane can leave a milk finish on black paint? Have you ever heard of this problem? Would oil based be better do you thing? I am painting my table black.
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, any old finish of latex paint will work (from flat to super glossy). We usually use semi-gloss when we won’t be using poly on a piece (since it’s naturally wipe-able without it) and flat paint when we will be using poly on top (poly can grip flat paint better than semi-gloss which is a bit slippery so it’s not as good of a foundation). We wouldn’t recommend oil-based poly as it’s known to discolor things, but using the exact Minwax poly that we mention by name in the post above is what we recommend. Just grab the exact same kind and apply two thin and even layers for a flawless finish. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Carly says
Couldn’t have found this at a better time, as I’m painting my kitchen table this weekend and don’t have a clue. I plan on following your directions exactly, but just need a little clarification: 1) I am wondering if I can use liquid sandpaper instead of 100 grit? 2) I got a little confused when reading one of your comments to another poster. Are you suggesting oil primer, flat paint and Minwax on all table surfaces, or just the table and use semigloss on the legs? What about for the chairs? 3 steps, or semigloss? Thank you soooo much!
YoungHouseLove says
We recommend sandpaper over liquid sandpaper every time for a better result (it’s also cheaper- bonus!). As for the order of things, oil-based primer on everything followed by two or three coats of flat paint on everything followed by around two super thin Minwax coats on everything (chairs, table, etc) is the way to go if it’ll be in a kitchen or anywhere else you’ll want maximum wipe-ability. Just be sure to pick up the exact Minwax poly we recommend in the post above and apply it super thinly and evenly so it doesn’t effect the color of your finish. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Jim Mahoney says
Thanks for the tip on my dining set-turned out great and your right the new rust-oleum paint worked great. Now I am inspired to tackle my 1960 wrought iron out door patio set. [table and 4 chairs] Any suggestions? It stays outside year round no storage space. Thanks again Jim
YoungHouseLove says
I again would go with the Rustoleum. Hope it helps! Good luck…
xo,
s
Trang says
We are painting our bedroom furniture a deep brown color. We started with just one piece (the night stand) to make sure we could do it. We did the sanding, used a latex primer, and a latex paint (satin finish). It sat in our basement for six weeks after we were done, and then we brought it to our bedroom. We had a tissue box on it for a day, and it became stuck to the night stand. After six weeks, it is still tacky. Will the Minwax help with this problem? Or did we do something wrong?
YoungHouseLove says
Wow! It must be the heat or the humidity! Crazy. I would think that the Minwax would probably make a nice dry shell but you’ll have to wait for those super thin coats to dry for a few days or so, just to cure up for good. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Donna @ dh designs says
Glad to find this post. I am in the midst of repainting my dining room table (as we speak) and just realized that my primer (after I had applied it on 1/2 of the table) is oil-based. I had planned on using latex paint and was under the impression that you couldn’t mix oil and latex. Your post eased my worries and actually makes alot of sense!
Thanks – and check out my blog for my big DIY project!
Larry says
Just found this blog through ASK.COM. I’ve purchased a cypress porch swing that I want to paint white. I’ve brush painted oil based Kilz primer over the whole thing and a 2nd coat of primer on most of it. I have a gallon on Valspar Semi-gloss white exterior latex that I want to use for the color coat. I’m thinking of spraying with a Wagner airless sprayer. Any hints? Secondly, should I switch and shoot Minwax white poly or stick with the Valspar and shoot a clear poly final coat?
YoungHouseLove says
Spraying pointers would be to go slow and steady and do thin and even coats to avoid drips. I would also brush on the poly after spraying on the paint, whether you go with the Minwax or the clear coat. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
T. says
I tried painting a table top with rust-oleum painters touch primer and semi gloss black..
Well the results are terrible.. The paint went on as streaks from the brush. three coats later finally was able to cover the gray primer from showing through.. I tried various strokes, long, short, slow, fast, etc.. Just lines lines.
Going to sand it down and try again.. What went wrong?
Paint too thick? Cheap brush?
YoungHouseLove says
Wait… you used a brush to apply spray paint or spray primer? Or does Rustoleum make regular paint? Or did you spray on the primer but brush on the black? I’m confused. Either way we recommend oil-based primer and latex paint applied with a high quality brush as we detail in the post above. You may see brush strokes when you apply each coat of paint, but if they’re thin and even and you don’t ever go back over an area once you paint it the results are flawless once it’s dry (strokes seem to disappear as it dries). Of course waiting a while between coats for things to firm up also really helps. Good luck!
xo,
s
Sara says
My husband and I are staining a dining room table. Will the polycrylic finish you mentioned protect wood against ring marks from cold drinks? I have not applied it yet, but what I bought is a Minwax “indoor/outdoor” finish since it mentioned it was “weather proof. Any thoughts or advice?
YoungHouseLove says
The only reason we love the specific Polycrilic varnish that we call out by name is because other protective coatings can yellow or otherwise discolor surfaces and it’s totally clear when applied thinly and evenly (it definitely protects against drink rings too). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Bev says
Help, tacky paint 2 weeks later!!!
Okay, so I finally got around to tackling this unfinished little tray table that I am hoping to turn into a side table. The guy at the local hardware store managed to convince me that I was crazy for wanting to use oil-based primer, so I reluctantly ignored your instructions and used a water-based one (which he guaranteed me would do the job). I think applied a thin coat of semi-gloss paint. Two weeks later it is still very tacky!! We live in San Diego, so we don’t exactly have humid weather to contend with or anything. What is to be done? Do I sand it down and start again? Apply oil-based Kilz over what I’ve done so far??
Thanks!!
YoungHouseLove says
Eeeks! It may be the primer issue. Why oh why do those paint guys keep pushing the water based stuff? I can promise you there’s definitely a difference in quality and the way it goes on, etc. I would give it a few more days and maybe even try dusting talcum powder on the sticky surfaces (we’ve heard it helps with the tackiness). If it doesn’t do the trick, I’m afraid the only way to go would be to sand everything a bit and apply a thin and even coat of oil-based Kilz. Then follow that with two suuuuper thin coats of semi-gloss paint (waiting a ton of time between coats to give everything time to set). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Ailie says
Wow, thanks, this post is great! I am new to repainting furniture and this has been a HUGE help. Any specific kind or type of paint brushes you would recommend? What size paint brushes do you usually use?
YoungHouseLove says
We loove this one. Hope it helps!
https://www.younghouselove.com/2009/06/how-to-paint-trim-like-a-pro/
xo,
s
DeborahJ says
Before we moved into our newly built home, and just after it had been sheetrocked it was paint balled. The builders put a kilz primer over the paint balls that were everywhere in the home and then did their regular painting of the interior of the house with a latex paint. The paint balls shone through the paint and I called the builder and said maybe they needed to just cut out the sheetrock where the paintballs had been and redo those areas so that the problem wouldn’t keep coming back. They didn’t and the problem did… and did… and did… this went on for over a year and, of course, they ended up getting fed up with me wanting them to fix it! Many years later I still haven’t been able to get rid of the shiny splatter shapes where the paint balls hit the walls. The home builders are long gone!
Do you have any suggestions?
I really love your blog. It’s very helpful and informative. Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Do you know if they used oil-based Kilz or water-based? If not the oil-based stuff is worth a try. If it was oil-based and the paint ball stains still bleed through I would take a flat head screwdriver and literally dig the marks right out of the wall (you’ll probably only have to dig out about a quarter of an inch of wall in each spot). Then use spackle or putty to refill the holes, sand them so they’re flush and even with the wall, and prime and paint the entire wall if you can. It should be a seamless finish after all that trouble! Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Amanda says
What is your recommendation to trying to achieve that weathered or worn look on the edges. I want to repaint my bedroom furniture a cream but have some edges showing brown from the wood. Let me know what you think. Thanks.
YoungHouseLove says
Just follow these steps (without doing the last polying step) and use sandpaper to expose some of the wood by gently sanding the edges with 100 grit sandpaper. Then you can poly everything to seal it in if you’d like (optional) but be sure to only use the polycrilic that we mention by name (others can yellow your paint). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Sarah says
Hello.
This is such a wonderful site. It’s so kind of you to respond to all your readers.
We just bought a bedroom set from 1974 off craigslist and want to paint it. I brought a drawer to a paint store this morning for advice. I was told that there was no way to tell if the existing cream paint was oil-based or a lacquer, so I would have to paint it with oil paint. I really was hoping to use latex or acrylic, so that I could detail it with sparkly craft store paint then apply a poly. (It’s for a little girl’s room.) Do you think that if I use your method, the oil based primer will be enough of a barrier over the existing surface and allow me to then use latex?
Thank you so much.
YoungHouseLove says
Absolutely! One thin and even coat of oil-based primer should make it the perfect surface for latex paint, even if it was originally painted with oil-based paint. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Sarah says
Thanks! :) And it would be okay over a lacquer too?
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, the oil-based primer should provide a nice foundation to make it work. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Kait says
Will this method work for painting stained wooden doors? I want to paint wooden doors, with a pretty dark stain, white. Do you think it will bleed through or be ok? Or do you think that by the time I complete all these steps for 12 doors and frames, I should just have bought new ones!?!
YoungHouseLove says
As long as you use an even coat of oil-based primer it should be perfect (and sanding won’t hurt if they’re super glossy to start with). It’s definitely the cheaper and muuuuch better way to update doors and frames instead of replacing them (which is expensive, takes a while to get done, and often feels just as complicated). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
dianne says
I want to paint a wood coffee table with glass inserts black. Can I use the oil primer and then spray the table black, just using canned spray paint? I’m worried about the edges of the table having paint wear off, as this table gets a lot of traffic–will the min wax finish also harden the edge finish? I want more of a satin finish, not a glossy one. What type of finish does the min wax give?
Thanks–this is a great site!
YoungHouseLove says
I would use oil-based spray primer (try Kilz but make sure it’s oil-based) and then follow it with some good quality black spray paint (like Rustoleum Continuous Spray). With spray paint the key is to do thin and even coats without any drips. And if you get too close you’ll have drips and pools of paint so just go slow and steady and keep the nozzle a good 8″ from the table as you go. There’s no need for Minwax with two or three thin and even coats of that spray paint with the primer underneath so that’s the good news. And you can definitely find a satin finish for the black to suit your preference. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
hayley says
do you think this would work when painting a wicker dresser?
i have a white one, and it doesn’t match all my wood.
YoungHouseLove says
When painting wicker definitely just spray paint it to get into all those crevices. You can use a spray primer first for maximum stickage and then apply two or three thin and even coats of high quality spray paint like Rustoleum Continuous Spray. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
hayley says
thanks for the advice… now i just have to find the right color! what an inspiring blog. kudos.
dianne says
Wow! So far, so good! I put on 2-3 coats of the spray Kilz, and 3 light coats of Rustoleum black satin paint, and it looks great. The rustoleum said to go over it lightly several times within an hour, so that’s what I did.I’ll go over it again tomorrow with another light coat or 2 of the black. Thank you so much–I have a new table for $50!!
Erica R. says
Hi Sherry,
I’m planning on painting a little table to go in our office but I’m having a hard time picking a white paint color. We’ve painted all our moldings and new 6 panel doors Valspar’s Ultra Pure White in semi gloss but I’m afraid it will be too stark white for a piece of furniture. We’ll likely stick with the color white that we choose and use it for all our furniture painting projects so I’d like something that is a nice crisp white but doesn’t scream out at you.
What color white you use for furniture painting projects? Do you go with a bright-white or somthing a little more subtle?
And I just want to say, I don’t know what I would have done without finding your blog. My husband and I wouldn’t have had the confidence to tackle nearly half of the things that we’ve done, mostly inspired by you guys. So thanks to you and John we’ve painted our kitchen cabinets for a new look, hung our curtains “high and wide”, repainted the rooms in our house “light and bright” and repeated colors for a more cohesive look, and we can’t wait for more projects to take on!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Erica,
Thanks for the kinds words! We looooove Benjamin Moore’s Decorators White when it comes to painting furniture. It’s not too stark and a bit warm but still clean and not yellow looking. Hope it helps! We always keep a gallon of it around for miscellaneous projects and it actually lasts quite a while!
xo,
s
Erica says
Thanks SO much Sherry, thats exactly what I’m looking for! And just another question if you don’t mind… where can I buy Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish? I’m assuming Home Depot or Lowes in the paint section? I’ve never used polyurethane so I wasn’t sure if I needed to go to a special hardware store to buy this. Thanks again!
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, I think we get ours at Home Depot but they should both have it. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
shopgirl says
do you have any tips on how to paint the door and window trims?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Shopgirl,
Here’s a post all about it. Hope it helps!
https://www.younghouselove.com/2009/06/how-to-paint-trim-like-a-pro/
xo,
s
dianne says
OK-since my table dried it doesn’t look as good. The finish isn’t smooth-it’s like the little particles that come out of the spray paint can all over, even though the color is uniform. I’m thinking now that I should paint over it all with another coat using a brush. Can I put latex paint over a latex spray?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Dianne,
Hmm, I wonder what happened? You can definitely paint latex right over spray paint so feel free to go that route. If it isn’t smooth to start with it won’t solve that though, so maybe sanding things down with 100 grit sandpaper and priming and painting from there would work.
xo,
s
marcy says
Love your site! Two questions–I just painted a small bench and then used Minwax Wipe-on poly to seal it. What is the best way to dispose of my poly-saturated rags?
Second, do you know of a spray-poly product?
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Marcy,
Good question! So glad you’re thinking about the environment! We bring all of our chemically tainted rags and brushes and paint cans to the local recycling center which has different stations for things like chemical waste and gallons of paint. Hope it helps! As for a spray-poly product, there are lots at Home Depot and Lowe’s which should do the trick (although we don’t have a specific brand that we recommend). Good luck!
xo,
s
dianne says
Well, I think I know what happened. The spray oil based Kilz had a rough, sandpaper like finish, even though I used 2-3 coats. I didn’t sand it after applying it, as I thought that was the way it was supposed to be to let the paint grip it. So when the spray paint also had that gritty finish after several coats, I sanded it lightly with 120 paper until it was smooth to touch, then put another light coat of spray paint on. It looks and feels much smoother now. I’ll do that one more time tomorrow, and I think it will be perfect! (It’s almost perfect now) Thank you for your help!
YoungHouseLove says
Great! So glad you cracked the case. Good luck with everything and thanks for the update! We were wondering what went wrong and now we know! Mystery solved.
xo,
s
Tina Walsh says
I just painted a dresser with a white semi-gloss paint. It looked great until I added the polyurethane. I had informed the employee at the store what I had painted and noted the specific paint I had used. They recommended a specific poly. They also recommended a specific brush, which I used (I did not use a roller). The can clearly states that it will not yellow, but, alas, that was not the case. I now have to sand it down again and redo the area I had covered with the poly. Any suggestions to assure that the item won’t yellow when I reapply the poly?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Tina,
So sorry to hear about your troubles. Unfortunately you will have to sand everything down, probably brush on at least one or two thin coats of paint and then follow it with the poly that we suggest above by name. It’s the only one that we can personally promise doesn’t yellow white pained pieces (and it’s the one we use all the time around here). Also remember to give the paint ample time to dry before applying the poly we suggest above, and to apply extremely thin and even coats (without going over any areas that are wet twice, which creates drags and pulls in the finish). Hope it helps!
xo,
s