Whether you’re interested in painting a chair, a table, or any other wooden piece of furniture, the steps are pretty much the same.
Take this table that we built and subsequently painted along with the accompanying white chairs (which used to be a golden blond wood tone).
Sprucing things up with a fresh coat of white paint took them from thrift store (where we got the table base) to Pottery Barn (which sells a similar version of it for 500 beans) in just a few hours.
But enough jibber-jabber. On with the how-to deets:
Step 1- Evaluate the surface of the piece that you’d like to paint. If it’s a sleek glossy surface (like varnished or sealed wood) you’ll want to gently sand the entire piece with 100 grit sandpaper). If it’s more of a dry chalky texture (like unfinished wood or flat paint) you can forgo the sandpaper and skip right to step two.
Step 2- Break out the oil-based primer to ensure that the paint sticks and no stains come through and ruin your finish (we’ve also used Zinsser Smart Prime with great success, which is a low-VOC stain-blocking primer that’s not oil-based – so it’s less stinky). Give the entire piece a good once over with a small foam roller or a paint brush. This coat of primer doesn’t have to be perfectly even in tone (it’ll probably look thinner in some areas since that’s how primer rolls) but as long as the entire piece is well covered – and it’s not too gloppy and thick – it’s ready for step three once it dries.
Step 3- Use a fresh small foam roller or paint brush to apply two thin and even coats of latex paint (a semi-gloss finish is usually best since it’s nice a wipe-able and durable choice). Many people mistakenly think that latex paint isn’t supposed to be applied over oil-based primer, but the real painting no-no is applying latex paint over oil-based paint, which is a guaranteed bubble-fest and should be avoided at all costs. And a word about small foam rollers vs. brushes: according to experts, all rollers – especially if used too quickly- may rile up the paint and lead to bubbles while paint brushes are the most bubble free application method known to man (although you might have brush stroke issues if the paint isn’t applied thinly enough or given ample drying time between coats).
We painted the table above with a paint brush, not a roller. But we have also used small foam rollers with great success, so those are actually our recommended choice for beginners since they cut down on brush strokes or drippy finishes and seem to be the most error proof. No matter what you use, be sure to wait until the first coat of paint is thoroughly dry before applying a second coat (each coat should be applied super lightly and evenly – aim for the thickness of an eggshell or a piece of paper). This thin application is the key to avoiding brush strokes or roller marks for a smooth, gorgeous finish. Repeat after me: three or even four super thin coats are far better than one or two thick and drippy ones!
Step 4- This step is optional, so think of it as extra credit. Brushing on two thin and even coats of water-based poly for wipe-able protection that really goes the extra mile (and provides a glossy oh-so-luxe sheen) can’t hurt if you pick the right stuff. The only two brands that we’ve ever used with unmatched success are these two, so they’re our strong recommendation (other types can yellow or crack over time):
- Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish in “Clear Gloss” (found at any home improvement center)
- Safecoat Acrylacq (which is a low-VOC, non-toxic alternative sold at eco boutiques or online at places like greendepot.com)
We went the extra mile and applied poly to our white table above for a bit of added protection, and we even thinly polyed the chairs since they need to be just as easy to wipe down due to their proximity to food whenever we dine in the sunroom. Thin is definitely the operative word, and again you’ll want to be sure to let the first coat thoroughly dry before going in for the second. Any time you go over semi-wet paint or poly to smooth things out you’ll get terrible drag marks, so work from one side to the other and never go back over things until they’re completely dry.
Step 5- Wait at least a full 72 hours to place objects on your newly painted piece to avoid dents or divots in your finish. If you really want to be on the safe side, we’d recommend waiting five full days. Sometimes factors like humidity and primer/paint/poly thickness can keep things from fully curing up, and you don’t want to get indents from using your newly painted piece too quickly. Waiting this long might take some willpower because you’re dying to sit on/eat on/enjoy your brand new piece, but it’s worth the wait. Promise.
Easy, right? Ok, those were a lot of words, so it might sound complicated. But just take things one step at a time. And remember to breathe. You can totally do it. There’s really no reason to live with wood furniture that’s not exactly the tone or the shade that you’d like. So from painting an old side table a handsome glossy black to giving a scratched up wooden chair a cheerful red tone, it’s definitely a project that you can confidently tackle in an afternoon. Go forth and paint something!
*Oh and it bears noting that if your furniture item is anything other than solid wood or veneered wood (like laminate, melamine, etc) you should visit your local hardware store and ask the paint pro there what they recommend for that surface. There are some great oil-based primers and enamel paints out there (which are changing all the time) so it might be possible to get a great result. The key is really roughing up the surface so it’s less glossy and then priming and painting with the best stuff they have (usually oil or enamel based).Good luck!
Psst- In the market for a quick cabinet painting tutorial? Look no further.
Psssst- Wondering how to paint a brick fireplace? Wonder no more.
Pssssssst- Itching to paint wood paneling? Try this.
Whitney says
Have you every had a problem with the urethane “yellowing” your paint color?
Whitney says
Sorry. Didn’t read all the way down.
Donna says
Good Morning,
I do not like painting, but I always seem to be doing it. Using your tips, I have greatly improved my skills and my trials. Thank you so much….
YoungHouseLove says
That’s awesome to hear Donna. Glad to help!
xo,
s (& j)
Kate says
Hi there. I want to “test the waters” of refinishing furniture by starting small, by refinishing a mail caddy (currently stained a warm brown color) and a hook rack (currently painted white). After I sand them down, I’ve got black latex paint that I’ll apply. Question about the oil-based primer: should I be looking for that in black as well? Do you have one you can recommend? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Kate,
We love Kilz primer, but make sure it’s oil-based because Kilz also makes a water-based primer which is not what we recommend. You can get them to tint it for you at the paint desk, but it’ll work just as well if you leave it white and just apply one or two thin extra coats of black paint for a truly saturated look. Hope it helps! Remember to use a semi-gloss paint so they’re wipeable- and of course to apply thin and even coats while waiting a while between coats (and at least 48+ hours before hanging and using them). To be safe we usually wait a week- we’ve learned it pays to give things time to dry!
xo,
s
Erin D says
Is it safe to paint laminate furniture? I have a few of Ikea’s Billy bookcases that I’d love to give a new life in my children’s play area. The current “wood” tone is not the look I’m going for. It would need to be a durable finish, because it’ll be frequently used by little ones. I have visions of the painted finish chipping because it’s not real wood. Have you painted anything like that before? Any different tips for that type of surface?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Erin D,
It can be done, it just probably won’t ever be as durable as solid wood. I would go for the oil-based primer followed by latex paint method outlined above, but you might want to ask the people at the paint counter what they recommend just in case there’s some varnish or new paint product that might help things last longer. Just whatever you do don’t let them talk you into water-based primer instead of oil-based (you can read up to see about a million times when they have somehow convinced people to make this switch which is NOT what we recommend and things have gone haywire). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Sophia says
Hello,
I love you guys! After a miserably botched paint job, I did some google searching and realized that my two favorite home bloggers actually already have a tutorial on how to paint furniture! Now, if only I’d done my leg work *before* the first paint job. Anyways, I’ve done the oil based primer and one coat of black latex semi-gloss enamel. It’s getting kind of late, and I was wondering if there’s such a thing as waiting too long between coats of paint? If I wait 18 hours or so until the next day, will the first coat become too glossy for the second coat to adhere properly?
YoungHouseLove says
There’s no such thing as waiting too long, in fact it’s a great way to guarntee that each layer has time to cure for a seamless finished product. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Julia E says
Hi there- I’d like to paint a wood dresser for my daughter’s room. Ordinarily we buy zero-VOC paint which is not a problem for the latex coat, but wondering if the oil-based primer you recommend is super stinky and toxic? I know oil paints are stinky, but what about primers? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
If you go to a green building supply store or log onto greendepot.com hopefully you can find something less toxic because the oil-based stuff is really stinky! Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Gabie says
My fiance and I are in the process of buying a house and soon I will need to paint his kitchen table we will be using. The top of the table is made out of a material comparable to what old kitchen countertops are made of. Will this be safe to paint with a good outcome? I think I will want it to be white… It is currently a light wood color.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Gabie,
Your best bet is to actually ask a paint professional at Benjamin Moore or your local home improvement store as we believe that the method outlined here will work well but it just might not be as durable as some new products that may be on the market for that material. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Allison says
Hi,
I have a table I would like to paint black and then distress it. Any tips for doing that? I’ve been looking through many different sites, and yours has been the most informative! THanks so much and I appreciate any advice you may have.
Allison
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Allison,
Assuming you want the original color of the table to show through when you distress it (as opposed to another color like cream) you should just follow the tips outlined above (use oil-based primer followed by two coats of latex paint) and then just wait for things to thoroughly dry. Once they do (probably within 48 hours) sand through the paint and primer to expose the original color of the table and it should look great! One tip would be to get your primer tinted black so when you sand things down you don’t get slivers of white peeking through the black and brown tones. Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
Amanda says
Have you ever painted glass? I have a glass top kitchen table and would love a new look. I just can’t afford a new kitchen table. The base and chairs are metal. Can you offer some suggestions?
YoungHouseLove says
We would spray paint the metal chairs and the base for a whole new look (you can go black, oil-rubbed bronze, navy, chocolate, etc- so many options). Then for the glass assuming you can pop it out from the bottom we would suggest frosting it from the bottom (even frosting on a new pattern with frosting spray or paint and a stencil) so you can have a whole new look and it will be durable since the top of the glass will be seamless and the pattern will be on the bottom. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
cyndi says
i am debating painting my daughters furniture – its my grandmothers – and its that varnished – red orangish wood.. i feel terrible about painting it – but its so not my style – i recently painted my other daughters with zebra stripes and it was gorgeous! so i know i can do this – my concern is picking the wrong color. any suggestions – i was thinking an antique silver look with then using a palm sander lightly to accent it – like an old world look – and touches of gold here and there.. OR going espresso brown. plain. – any thoughts on what may hold better – i know to use that miniwax sealant after. i am afriad of a metallic paint – if it is easy to work with??? could i buy spray paint? is that compleatly nuts to use a silver metallic SPRAY paint???????? could i still hit it with some sand paper for the old feel???? also i have to prime it right? just didnt want to see white.. can i spray paint a primer as well??? not trying to be lazy but if i can – that is sooo much quicker… please help
YoungHouseLove says
We wouldn’t recomment spray paint but Ralph Lauren has some awesome metallic paint (their Regency line) at Home Depot so that would be our suggestion. We love the idea of an antique silvery pewter tone and you could get your primer tinted gray so it blends in well when you distress it. Our best advice for working with those metallic paints would be to purchase the recommended brushes with them since they make everything easier. It sounds like it’ll turn out just as gorgeously as the zebra refinishing you did! Good luck!
xo,
s
Gail says
I am painting an entertainment center and would like it to match the woodwork in the room which is a medium oak color. Do you know of any paint color names that may work for the color I am trying to acheive?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Gail,
Your best bet by far is to bring home a slew of brown swatches to hold up to the woodwork to see which one matches best (some trim has yellow undertones while others are more orange or even peachy tones to it). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Bonnie says
I am so glad I found your website! You have done such amazing work–you two are really an inspiration, especially for a nervous beginner like me. A couple of weeks ago I decided to tackle a project, but had no idea where to begin. I wanted to re-paint an old, beloved coffee table. I am a complete novice; I’d never painted anything before, ever! In my search for info and tips I came across your blog and how-to tutorials. It has been very helpful and I’ve used your furniture painting tutorial as a guide. It is wonderful–thank you for that! Unfortunately, my results are very disappointing and I know I must have done something wrong. My finished table has very obvious brush marks–to the point that they can be seen from across the room and the surface has a pronounced texture when I run my hand over it. I did as you recommend: sanded the old paint surface, used an oil-based primer and a semi-gloss latex paint, used high quality paint brushes. I waited the appropriate amount of time between coats and I painted thin coats of paint to avoid drips and brush marks. I also used a high quality paint (Benjamin Moore). So I’m not sure where I went wrong. I haven’t ever painted before and I noticed that the paint seemed to be a bit thick (even though it was brand new). I know that I’m going to need to sand the table and repaint it (I’m waiting a couple of weeks to allow the paint to fully cure), but I am not sure how to avoid this from happening next time around. Do you have any ideas about what I did wrong or suggestions for better results? Should I have thinned the paint (the label says nothing about thinning it)? I am baffled by what went wrong. Any advice is really appreciated! And thanks, again, for such a great site!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Bonnie,
It seems like you may have applied things too thickly. I know you mentioned that the paint seemed thick, but you really just want to dip your brush in the paint and then run it along the side of the can to remove the excess so there’s a lot less on the brush as you paint (as thin as an eggshell is the goal). Anything as thick as a penny is wayyyyy too thick. Hope it helps! Definitely stir the paint thoroughly before using it (although there’s no need to thin it) and sanding things once they cure to start over sounds great. Good luck!
xo,
s
Bonnie says
If eggshell thin is the goal, then I bet I did apply it too thickly. I’ll practice my technique before I tackle painting the table again. Thank you so much!
Jami says
I applied Minwax polycrylic to the top of the dining table that I recently painted, and now that the poly has dried, it definitely has some streaks because I tried touching up some spots as I was going along and the poly was starting to dry a tad bit. (It dries very quickly!) I used a foam brush to apply the poly, but now I am wondering what I should do to give it a smoother, store-bought appearance. Do I sand the poly with light sandpaper? If so, what grit? Or can I just apply another coat of poly over this coat without sanding? Thanks in advance for the advice!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Jami,
I would sand it with 300-400 grit (or even smaller) and then use a high quality angled brush to apply a bit more poly (try Purdy from Lowe’s or Home Depot). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Erin says
Thanks so much for your info! I just primed and painted a dresser, but it didn’t turn out the way I was expecting…when I googled for answers, I found your site and figured out my issue was probably the foam roller (which I saw used on an HGTV show, and thought it must be what I needed…what they don’t tell you, huh??) and also the fact that I used latex primer instead of oil-based…I had no idea you could put latex paint over oil-based primer. If I want the satin smooth finish I was going for, do I have to sand down to the wood and re-prime with oil-based primer? Or can I salvage my work at all…
Again, thanks so much for your insights! I can’t believe what a great site you have! Thanks for all your hard work.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Erin,
We would just sand it a bit with 100 grit sandpaper to get things smooth again (don’t move on to priming or painting unless your foundation is smooth because paint emphasizes flaws, it doesn’t hide them). Then once it feels nice and even and ready for primer, just go over everything with one thin and even coat of the oil-based stuff and follow that with two coats of latex paint (applied super thinly and evenly as well). The trick to a truly perfect finish is a high quality brush, thin and even coats of paint, and ample drying time between coats and after you’re done. Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
Rachel says
Hi,
I recentley painted a computer armoire. I sanded it lighlty to rough it up. Then I used Home Depots Paint that has a primer with it. Next, I used another paint color with no primer. I was going for an antique finish. I got the look that I wanted, but I applied a poly- seal and Know it is chipping super easy. This is large piece what can I do to keep it from chipping? Can anyone help me? Thanks
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Rachel,
We don’t recommend the paint with primer in it and instead actually recommend the exact steps above (oil-based primer followed by two thin and even coats of latex paint followed by that exact poly we have mentioned by name (other brands can cause chipping and discoloring). Your best bet is probably to sand everything down until it’s smooth and restart with the exact steps and materials above, which is the only method we know works time and time again. Hope it helps! Good luck!
xo,
s
Bao says
I’m repainting a dresser. Is there a specific brush that you would recommend?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Bao,
Any high quality angled brush (Purdy makes some great ones) will work for you. Expect to pay around $10-$12 or so for a good one. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Lia says
Hi,
I have a small wood end table that I bought at a garage sale and it has a lot of layers of old paint on it. In the how-to above when you say “gently sand”, should the goal be to rough up the existing top layer of paint or remove all the paint and start again? I guess I’m not sure how much sanding I should do or how much is necessary. Will the oil primer allow my new latex paint finish to go right on over the existing paint job? Any additional adivce would be great!
Thanks,
Lia
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Lia,
You just want to sand so things aren’t glossy so do a little bit if things are too shiny and see if that’ll do. You also need to sand if things are splintered or peeling because the goal is to get everything smooth since paint doesn’t make things smooth it actually emphasizes imperfections so starting with a nice smooth and even “foundation” is the key. If things are already smooth and perfect, then just go straight to the oil-based primer, which makes sure that the latex paint sticks to things firmly. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Gail says
I just finished painting a cabinet with a black flat paint. I was wondering if I could use the Minwax Wipe-On Poly to finish it? (I already have some that I used when staining some other wood). I want to make sure it will not turn yellow also.
Gail
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Gail,
Good question! If you’ve used it before and you’re sure it won’t yellow we’d say go for it. We can only vouch for the poly that we recommend in this post since it’s the one we know and love, but we hope it helps!
xo,
s
Jenny says
Hi-I love your helpful tutorials! I just followed your steps above for a console table I’m doing. I also used the minwax clear gloss and have just applied my first coat. On the back of the can it tells you to sand in between your first coat & second…did you guys do that? Or did you just apply the first and let dry and then apply the second?
Thanks :)
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Jenny,
We apply such super paper thin coats that we don’t need to sand, but doing so with fine grit paper can smooth things out if it’s feeling less than glossy. Either way you probably can’t lose if you’re keeping them thin and even! Oh and definitely wait for them to fully dry between coats whether you’re sanding or not. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Lia says
Hi,
One more question about my little wood end table… If I use oil primer, 2 coats of latex paint, top coat of water based urethane and then in two years want to change the colour again, what would be the process? Would I just rough up the urethane, use oil primer and repeat all the steps again? Can oil primer go over latex paint?
Thanks,
Lia
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, just rough up the urethane with sandpaper, prime with the oil based stuff again and repaint. Oil-based primer can go over anything, and anything can go over it (latex or oil-based paint) so it’s a great “restart button.” Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Gail says
I took your recommendation to use the Water-based poly and use a brush to apply it. I am just wondering if you usually lightly sand between the two applications of polyacrylic or is it not necessary? I am using the satin finish poly.
Thanks again for all your help!
Gail
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Gail,
We apply such super paper thin coats that we don’t need to sand, but doing so with fine grit paper can smooth things out if it’s feeling less than glossy. Either way you probably can’t lose if you’re keeping them thin and even! Oh and definitely wait for them to fully dry between coats whether you’re sanding or not. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Gail says
Sorry, I should have read the comment someone else wrote before I did. I already have my answer.
Thanks!
Gail
tracy says
Hi,
I want to paint an antique china cabinet a robin’s egg blue color to blend in with my wallpaper. Can you suggest a brand of latex paint I should buy? Can this type of paint be color matched at the paint store?
Thanks.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Tracy,
You can try Benjamin Moore’s Fantasy Blue but the best bet might be to bring home a number of swatches and hold them up to your wallpaper to pick the best one. Then if you don’t want to spend the money on Benjamin Moore paint you can have it color matched at Home Depot to Behr which is at a lower price point but still a great quality. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Tiffany says
HI!
My husband and I are refinishing a dresser/changing table for the Nursery.we followed the steps you recommended – oil based primer – sanding – latex paint with a Purdy brush. Help!! – It looks horrible!! It is SUPER streaky and you can see almost every brush stroke– what did I do wrong!?! The paint seemed to get “tacky” almost immediately when I applied it… Do you think there is something wrong with the paint (BEHR)? I didn’t apply a very thick coat, but I wouldn’t say it was “paperthin”. Please help!!!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Tiffany,
Uh oh, did you sand between primer and latex paint? It seems like when you listed your steps you put that step in the middle and as you’ll see in our post above, there is no sanding after priming in our tutorial (only before). As for the paint choice, we love Behr, but it sounds like you put it on too thick. Any time something is too tacky and shows a lot of brush strokes that is the problem. You want to dip your brush delicately in the paint and then drag both edges on the side of the can to eliminate the excess. Both the primer and the latex paint are supposed to be as thin as an eggshell. Suuuper even and super thin. The best advice would be to let it dry thoroughly (which could take a few weeks), then sand it a bit, put on a paper thin coat of primer, and two paper thin coats of the latex paint. Thinner is better. And remember to let each coat dry thoroughly so it’s not tacky for weeks- and never go back and touch up an area once you’ve gone over it because it leaves brush strokes. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Heather says
I sanded my table, primed, paint 3 coats of black paint sanding between coats. I put on 4 coats of Minwax Polycrylic and then sanded the final coat to get rid of brush marks. The raised part of the wood grain is now a grey color and the lower parts are black. If I put on another coat it will all be black but I will have brush marks. All of the “experts” say to sand the final coat with a fine grain paper (I used 320 grit) or use #0000 steel wool. I used a satin finish. What do I do? I really want a professional finish. The table is really smooth and you can’t see brush marks but I don’t want a grey table.
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, I would definitely do one more coat of black applied as cleanly as possible and not sand it. Then let it dry for at least 48 hours. You’ll be surprised how many brush strokes will magically disappear once the pint cures. And paint in all one direction, so brushstrokes look subtle, like the grain of the wood, not like mistakes. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Anna says
My primer says to wait six hours before applying the paint. Can I cheat on that?
Anna
YoungHouseLove says
I wouldn’t! You want everything to thoroughly dry so it’s not tacky for months- it’s sort of a longcut up front but a shortcut in the end. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Patricia says
I love your web site. After reading the depressing news each day I come here to cheer up. I am getting out my paint brush to paint two ugly wooden dressers we’ve had for years. I have a question about color. The dressers will be going in a room we have been inspired to redecorate from your site. We are using colors you have suggested, decorators white for trim and one of the beiges. We will have bamboo curtains all around ( Florida Room). What color would you suggest we paint the dressers?
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, white would be pretty and clean looking, but a soft blue gray color (Benjamin Moore’s Quiet Moments) or a fresh leafy green color (Benjamin Moore’s Spring Meadow) would be gorgeous as well. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Linda says
I have just recently found your site and love it all. :) I bought a dining table and chairs (really old) at a garage sale. I stipped all the pieces, then bought an oil based primer. I started to paint the primer today and I am not happy with it. The primer was think even with me trying to apply a super light coat. My now super smooth finish is now rough. I have only painted the leaves and the table legs so far. I am thinking that maybe I should have passed on the primer since I did strip it and do plan to paint it black. So I am not worried that stain will bleed through. My thought is to sand down the primed area to a smooth finish again and paint everything black(primed and not primed)What do you think?
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, primer is definitely famous for being tacky and not going on smoothly at all (it’s nearly impossible to get one uniform coat, but the tacky unfinished quality of the oil-based primer creates the perfect foundation for two thin and even coats of latex paint (which do go on smoothly on top of the primer, the tacky base grabs it for a nice durability that doesn’t effect the smooth finish). Our advice is definitely that everyone use oil-based primer followed by latex paint as it’s a method we use regularly (and also the recommended way to refinish pieces by many other experts) but it really is your choice if you’d rather skip right to the paint since you’ve stripped your pieces so thoroughly. It still might have compromised durability (aka: flake or peel more easily than if the oil-based primer was applied) but in the end it’s your call. One other idea might be to apply the oil-based primer and sand it with 100 or 200 grit sandpaper just a bit once it’s totally dry before applying the paint which will make it smoother since you seem unhappy with the texture of it. Just know that it’s supposed to be a little uneven and rough but the latex paint creates a nice smooth finish on top. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Linda says
Hello! I googled instructions for painting cabinets and came upon your website. I’m having so much fun browsing around!
I will be painting my kitchen cabinets using your suggested method. Can I use a paint sprayer on the doors/drawers instead of using brushes/rollers? I will be painting the doors and drawers in the garage so overspray doesn’t bother me. Right now, I do plan on using brushes and rollers when painting the shelving part of the cabinets in the house.
What are your thoughts/experience on using a paint sprayer? In the end, I just want to get it right the first time.
Thank you so much in advance!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Linda,
If you’re comfortable and adept at using a paint sprayer than we say go for it! We have found that novices often encounter drip marks and uneven adhesion, but if you know how to keep things smooth and thin, applying light layers until you have nice coverage than that’s definitely an option for you. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
simon says
I have painted my furniture then glossed it but the offwhite paint is going a yellow tinge to the paint finish before I start on the other peices is there anything I can do to keep the white and give it a protected cover. Help!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Simon,
Yup, use the poly we recommend by name and apply very thin and even coats. A lot of other types of poly will discolor your finish but we’ve painted many white pieces with the specific brand listed in this post above and it never yellows. Especially when you apply it thinly and evenly. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
megan says
Hi! I just came across your site and love it! I recently bought a bench/rocker for my outside patio that needs to be sanded and re-painted. Since this piece will be outside, is there anything you would recommend that is different than the tutorial above? It will be on a covered patio, and I live in Southern California so there will be very little exposure to rain/extreme temperatures.
Thank you!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Megan,
Yup, this spray paint tutorial should work like a charm (it’s meant for outside).
xo,
s
Anna says
Okay. So we have this chair that we love. We’ve been painstakingly painting it following your advice every step of the way. Now, it’s time for the polyurethane. We got Minwax, clear satin. When I put the first (thin!) coat on a small piece of the chair, it left hundreds of little bubbles. Most of them eventually went away, but there are a few left. What do you think?
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, bubbles for when poly is getting riled up. Did you furiously stir it before application? Or are you whipping the brush through it rapidly to load it up or making super swift swipes? We would hope that going slower might solve the problem. It’s good that a lot of the bubbles are popping on their own. We have also heard that popping the remaining ones super gently with a small needle could work. Just be delicate about it if you go that route. Otherwise you can forgo the poly altogether- it’s definitely a more advanced optional step. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Wanda says
Hello,
I have just finished putting two coats of black latex enamel paint (sanding between coats) on a table I am refinishing. I have brush strokes and wonder what I am doing wrong. The brush I am using is high end and was recommended by a clerk at Sherwin williams where I purchased the paint. I know this probably sounds silly, but how do you paint a very thin coat of paint. I feel that when there is not much paint on the brush then I most load more often and use short strokes (and more strokes). How should one paint, short strokes, long strokes? If I roll on a coat of paint with a roller will that cover the stroke marks? If so, what type of roller would you recommend. I appreciate any suggestions. Note: I did sanded the wood but did not apply primer.
Wanda
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Wanda,
Long even strokes are key, but we always dip our brush in paint and then slide it across the edge of the paint can to remove any excess. Usually when you get brush strokes they’re from too much paint application (it’s so thick the brush digs in and makes marks) or going over areas more than once (when paint starts to dry within minutes, going back over that area creates a marred finish with drag marks on it). Another tip is to go all in one direction with the grain of the wood (so if you’re left with subtle lines they’re all in the same direction and just look like wood grain). A lot of times with black paint it’s hard to completely avoid brush strokes, but doing thin applications, long strokes, not going over areas twice when they’re wet and painting everything in the same direction of the wood really helps. If you wanted to use a roller we’d advise a good quality Purdy one meant for smooth surfaces, but rollers tend to leave little stipple marks far more noticeable than brushes which is why we recommend brushes for painting furniture. The absence of primer might also be partially to blame as that helps paint really “grab” the piece, and can definitely help it go on more smoothly and evenly. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Wanda says
Thanks so much for your input. I definately go over an area too much with the brush. I use the back and forth method which sounds like a bad idea. I think in this case I will sand the finish some and try another coat using proper brush strokes and not too much paint and see if that smooths things out a bit. Again, thanks for your response!
Wanda
Patricia says
I have an antique Rock Maple dining room table and chairs made by Heywood Wakefield. I have to always cover it because it has white stains on it from cups, plates… I would love to know if I can get rid of the spots and keep the wood look or should I just paint it.
Thanks, Patricia
YoungHouseLove says
Good question! So good that we don’t know the answer. Perhaps asking the paint professionals at your local home improvement store will yeild an answer (there are all sorts if new products that might help). And as a last ditch effort, sanding the entire table until there aren’t marks and restaining it a similar color should restore it really well. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Kim says
I have some pieces of hand-me-down furniture that I would love to update with paint. I really love the clean and crispness of white furniture and accents, however all of my moulding, baseboards and ceilings are an off-white/cream color. What do you think about adding a few pieces of white furniture and accents? Will it clash with the different color mouldings?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Kim,
Not at all, as long as you bring in at least two or three white furnishings so there’s not just one looking mismatched. When you repeat a color it looks deliberate, so it’ll layer well with the off-white for a sophisticated and mixed & matched effect. Here’s a post all about mixing and matching materials and colors and textures for a layered and interesting room. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Abby says
Hello,
Just found your site and I just love it! I have a 1930’s armoire and want to repaint but it has a small warp on the door and it is very thin – looks like the piece of walnut veneer is the top layer. Is there any suggestions on how to change this and make it a bit more modern?
Thanks and blessings!
Abby
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Abby,
Painting a piece of furniture is a great way to make it more modern and replacing the hardware for something more current is another way to instantly update it. Since your piece is veneer you’ll want to ask a paint pro at your local hone improvement store what sort of prep they recommend (oil-based primer plus latex paint would most likely work although it wouldn’t be as durable as painting a solid piece of wood furniture). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Audra says
A friend gave me an old, beat-up pressed wood desk that has potential. My nine year old daughter is in need of a desk for her bedroom. She is very creative and the desk will take some abuse and possibly liquid spills. I can find very little information on the web concerning painting pressed wood. One site suggested to sand the piece (120 grit), then apply a sanding sealer (stressing this is the most important step), then sand with 220 grit paper. Then it says to prime, then sand, then apply two coats of latex paint, sanding between coats. Finish by sanding with 400 grit. Other sites says just prime and paint. I don’t want the pressed wood to swell. Also, I want the desk to be cleanable, so should I finish it off with Minwax polycrylic protective finish? I am on a tight budget and I do not want to buy a lot of products I don’t need. Can you please help?
A. H.
YoungHouseLove says
Good question! Your best bet is to ask a pro at your local home improvement center or specialty paint store (like Benjamin Moore) what they recommend. As for protection, we got a $30 piece of plexiglass cut for a desk we refinished in a little girl’s room so that’s a great way to add durability to the tabletop (and create an easily wipe-able surface). Here’s a link to that post: https://www.younghouselove.com/2008/10/olivias-design-dilemma-solved/
Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Audra says
Someone emailed me this link on how to paint laminate furniture. Thought I’d pass it along. It sounds a bit easier then the little bit of advice available.
http://www.livingwithlindsay.com/2009/05/how-to-paint-laminate-furniture.html
Thank you! Your house is adorable and you are talented at what you do.
A.H.
YoungHouseLove says
Thanks for sharing!
xo,
s
Lilly says
Hello! I bought a white cabinet that I would like to paint black, do I still have to prime it since the original paint color is white? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, primer creates a necessary foundation so your paint sticks without peeling or bubbling for the long haul (think of it as glue for under your paint). So no matter what colors you’re using we always recommend one thin and even coat of oil-based primer.
xo,
s
robert detwiler says
would adding a little water to latex black reduce brush strokes ??
YoungHouseLove says
Good question! We never recommend altering the formula of latex paint, even with water. Your best bet is to paint in all one direction (with the grain of the wood) and apply thin and even coats without going over any areas while they’re still wet (going back over a spot that you painted a few minutes ago can result in extra obvious brush strokes). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Rebecca says
S –
I tried this “no sand” method on some furniture over the weekend. It really works and it looks like it came right out of the factory. Just note that you should always sand out deep scuff marks to smooth them out. I’ve read about your adversion to foam rollers but you’re too young to be stuck in your ways!
I’m with her and swear by the paint:
http://j-a-girl.blogspot.com/2009/10/you-ask-you-receive.html
YoungHouseLove says
Wow that piece looks amazing! We love a good primer without sanding, it really can do the trick! And as for the foam roller, she really worked it and we’re so glad to see the amazing results! We just post tutorials with step by step tips and methods that work for us so because we’ve used paint brushes and achieved a showroom look that’s what we recommend. Does that make sense? We have also seen various experts who claim that foam rollers rile up the paint and cause bubbles (which was also our experience with them in the past) so that’s why we recommend what we do. So glad it worked for her though! Hope it helps.
xo,
s
Kristen says
Hi Youngsters,
I’ve been working on painting an entry bench…everything went great until the poly coat at the end. After reading this I realized my mistake is using oil-based rather than water. I’m wondering if I’ll have to completely start over or if lightly sanding and reapplying a water-based poly would work?
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, we would definitely try lightly sanding with a high grit sandpaper and then applying the water-based poly we recommend by name above. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
carl says
would using liquid gloss give the same effect?
YoungHouseLove says
It could, it just depends which gloss you choose. Some are thicker and leave a yellow-ish tint (so if you’re painting something white you’ll want to be careful about that) which is why we recommend the specific poly by name in our write up above (which we’ve personally used on many occasions without any tinting). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Bryan says
Hey YHL:
I’ve embarked on a furniture rehab after gathering courage and lots of useful tips from your furniture painting tutorial. I followed every step to the letter with outstanding results…until now.
I just finished applying the first coat of polyacrylic (using your preferred brand). I tried, tried, tried to get the layer “paper thin.” What do I end up with? Streaky. Blotchy. Matte in some areas. Glossy in others. Lots of brush marks. Does this mean I have to sand before the second (and probably third) coats?
ALSO:
I know you guys specify using a brush for polyacrylic application, but would I be wrong to apply it with a roller? I had such great success with primer and painting using a roller that I feel much more adept with it.
Thanks for the information and inspiration. I look forward to your response.
YoungHouseLove says
No! You’re right on track. The first coat is never perfectly covered (but since you have it so thin you’re setting yourself for great coverage after two or three more thin and even coats). It’s basically like spray paint so instead of one coat to cover everything (which is much too heavy handed) you use a few thin and blotchy coats that come together to form the perfect coverage in the end. As for a roller, it’s not our preferred method (we use a high quality 2″ brush like an angled one from Purdy at Home Depot) but if you want to try it there’s nothing to lose because you can just sand it down if you don’t like how it goes on. Traditionally experts advise against rollers since they can rile up paint and create fine stippling and bubbles, but it’s worth a try if you’d like. It’s really your call! And if you’re unhappy with brush strokes you can use very fine sandpaper (like 300 grit) to “polish” your poly between coats which doesn’t strip things down to the bare wood, but creates a nice smooth foundation for each coat that follows. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Donna @ dh-designs says
Have you ever used a paint gun, or paint sprayer to paint furniture? I’m considering purchasing one for my new hobby (painting furniture – or anything else that comes to mind :)) and would love your recommendation if you’ve used any.
Thanks…Donna
YoungHouseLove says
Good question! We have used paint sprayers and think they’re great for people who are well versed when it comes to using them. If you’ve never used one you should probably practice a bit on pieces of furniture that were inexpensive and not too important since it takes time to master an even application (you may end up with drips and uneven splotchy patches the first few tries). They’re basically a lot harder to control than a roller or a paint brush so once you master the skill you can move quickly and achieve expert results but you definitely have to put in the time to get to know your paint sprayer to get to that point. They’re also a pain to clean (far more of a task than cleaning brushes or disposing of rollers) so that’s another point to weigh when you make your decision. In the end it’s really your call. If you’d like something simple and controlled a brush or a roller is the way to go but if you want something that’s more difficult to begin with but that can help you turn out projects left and right after a lot of practice then a paint sprayer should be right up your alley. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Jessicah says
Hi! I’ve just discovered your blog in the last few weeks, and have been enjoying reading through your archives (I’m up to November 08) :) But, we’re also going to be remaking our den/office into a baby room in the next few months, and I have a question about furniture painting. I’ve been inspired by the bold furniture-painting moves that you’ve made, something which I’d normally be scared to try!
I have some existing bookcases and a dresser that I want to incorporate, but (a) they don’t match each other and (b) they’re pressboard type kit furniture, since we’re on a budget. I read that you said that finished wood should be sanded, but I’m thinking that that doesn’t apply to the wood laminate surface of pressboard right? Because it seems to me that if I sand them there won’t be much left. But if I’m totally wrong and they do need sanding, please let me know! Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Jessicah,
You’re right to assume that you can’t sand pressboard, but applying the same oil-based primer followed by two thin and even coats of latex paint should be your best bet. It won’t bond as deeply as painting solid furniture, but it should be a great little instant makeover that holds up reasonably well for a while. Basically, it can tide you over until you can upgrade in a few years, and will certainly tie all those mismatched pieces together in a flash. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Jan says
I am glad to know about the oil-based primer for pressboard (Masonite®). I have several white LACK tables from IKEA that are now 22 years old: 2 high console tables and 2 low coffee tables. In that amount of time the surface paint has become quite scratched, and attempts to sand before repainting have not proved very successful.
Since I have not been able to find replacements in white (IKEA has changed its white-centric focus since 1987), and since the nearest IKEA (now that I have relocated to East Tennessee) seems to be hundreds of miles distant a quick jaunt for an IKEA fix is no longer an option.
Regarding foam rollers for fancy work, I concur. I do continue to use them for painting my bookshelves with semigloss white water-based latex. Part of the riled-up issue of leaving bubbles, for me, has been resolved by thinning the paint a little with water so it is not as viscous. Alternatively, I keep a spray bottle of water handy when painting out-of-doors on a very dry day: I give a few quick sprays before applying the paint. (I also do this to dry walls before applying wallpaper: it facilitates sliding everything into place before the paste gets tacky.)
The issue is solved for me if the paint can be applied quickly before drying out. Humidity. Water.