Whether you’re interested in painting a chair, a table, or any other wooden piece of furniture, the steps are pretty much the same.
Take this table that we built and subsequently painted along with the accompanying white chairs (which used to be a golden blond wood tone).
Sprucing things up with a fresh coat of white paint took them from thrift store (where we got the table base) to Pottery Barn (which sells a similar version of it for 500 beans) in just a few hours.
But enough jibber-jabber. On with the how-to deets:
Step 1- Evaluate the surface of the piece that you’d like to paint. If it’s a sleek glossy surface (like varnished or sealed wood) you’ll want to gently sand the entire piece with 100 grit sandpaper). If it’s more of a dry chalky texture (like unfinished wood or flat paint) you can forgo the sandpaper and skip right to step two.
Step 2- Break out the oil-based primer to ensure that the paint sticks and no stains come through and ruin your finish (we’ve also used Zinsser Smart Prime with great success, which is a low-VOC stain-blocking primer that’s not oil-based – so it’s less stinky). Give the entire piece a good once over with a small foam roller or a paint brush. This coat of primer doesn’t have to be perfectly even in tone (it’ll probably look thinner in some areas since that’s how primer rolls) but as long as the entire piece is well covered – and it’s not too gloppy and thick – it’s ready for step three once it dries.
Step 3- Use a fresh small foam roller or paint brush to apply two thin and even coats of latex paint (a semi-gloss finish is usually best since it’s nice a wipe-able and durable choice). Many people mistakenly think that latex paint isn’t supposed to be applied over oil-based primer, but the real painting no-no is applying latex paint over oil-based paint, which is a guaranteed bubble-fest and should be avoided at all costs. And a word about small foam rollers vs. brushes: according to experts, all rollers – especially if used too quickly- may rile up the paint and lead to bubbles while paint brushes are the most bubble free application method known to man (although you might have brush stroke issues if the paint isn’t applied thinly enough or given ample drying time between coats).
We painted the table above with a paint brush, not a roller. But we have also used small foam rollers with great success, so those are actually our recommended choice for beginners since they cut down on brush strokes or drippy finishes and seem to be the most error proof. No matter what you use, be sure to wait until the first coat of paint is thoroughly dry before applying a second coat (each coat should be applied super lightly and evenly – aim for the thickness of an eggshell or a piece of paper). This thin application is the key to avoiding brush strokes or roller marks for a smooth, gorgeous finish. Repeat after me: three or even four super thin coats are far better than one or two thick and drippy ones!
Step 4- This step is optional, so think of it as extra credit. Brushing on two thin and even coats of water-based poly for wipe-able protection that really goes the extra mile (and provides a glossy oh-so-luxe sheen) can’t hurt if you pick the right stuff. The only two brands that we’ve ever used with unmatched success are these two, so they’re our strong recommendation (other types can yellow or crack over time):
- Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish in “Clear Gloss” (found at any home improvement center)
- Safecoat Acrylacq (which is a low-VOC, non-toxic alternative sold at eco boutiques or online at places like greendepot.com)
We went the extra mile and applied poly to our white table above for a bit of added protection, and we even thinly polyed the chairs since they need to be just as easy to wipe down due to their proximity to food whenever we dine in the sunroom. Thin is definitely the operative word, and again you’ll want to be sure to let the first coat thoroughly dry before going in for the second. Any time you go over semi-wet paint or poly to smooth things out you’ll get terrible drag marks, so work from one side to the other and never go back over things until they’re completely dry.
Step 5- Wait at least a full 72 hours to place objects on your newly painted piece to avoid dents or divots in your finish. If you really want to be on the safe side, we’d recommend waiting five full days. Sometimes factors like humidity and primer/paint/poly thickness can keep things from fully curing up, and you don’t want to get indents from using your newly painted piece too quickly. Waiting this long might take some willpower because you’re dying to sit on/eat on/enjoy your brand new piece, but it’s worth the wait. Promise.
Easy, right? Ok, those were a lot of words, so it might sound complicated. But just take things one step at a time. And remember to breathe. You can totally do it. There’s really no reason to live with wood furniture that’s not exactly the tone or the shade that you’d like. So from painting an old side table a handsome glossy black to giving a scratched up wooden chair a cheerful red tone, it’s definitely a project that you can confidently tackle in an afternoon. Go forth and paint something!
*Oh and it bears noting that if your furniture item is anything other than solid wood or veneered wood (like laminate, melamine, etc) you should visit your local hardware store and ask the paint pro there what they recommend for that surface. There are some great oil-based primers and enamel paints out there (which are changing all the time) so it might be possible to get a great result. The key is really roughing up the surface so it’s less glossy and then priming and painting with the best stuff they have (usually oil or enamel based).Good luck!
Psst- In the market for a quick cabinet painting tutorial? Look no further.
Psssst- Wondering how to paint a brick fireplace? Wonder no more.
Pssssssst- Itching to paint wood paneling? Try this.
millie says
I tried painting an old chair for my grand-daughters room.
The chair is an old stained kitchen chair – not a slick finish. I was told I did not have to sand or prime. WRONG!I sprayed a thin coat of pink enamel right onto the chair and it looked good. When dry, I sprayed the second coat and it looked even and pretty. As it was drying, it began to bubble on the spindle legs and the seat. The paint will peel easily from the seat. If I remove the paint on the seat and sand the spindles, can I then prime it and start over. I do not want to remove the paint from all those
spindles. Please help me. It looks just like the Pottery Barn chair – just not pink.
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, our recommendation would be to sand everything down and be sure to use an oil-based primer before painting again (the bubbling is because the chair isn’t compatible with latex paint but oil-based primer will solve that and create a long lasting bond). We know it’s not what you want to hear, but unfortunately we don’t know of a shortcut here (other than using a chemical stripper, which you can check out at a home improvement store). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Erica says
Hi Sherry,
Working on my first wood-to-paint furniture project and just applied the coat of primer to the sanded piece of furniture. It is just drying and the wood grain is coming through in places — the white primer just looks kind of tan now. Would you recommend another coat of primer before I apply my first coat of paint, or am I good to go on to the painting step?
Thanks for all of your inspiration and, as always, your ridiculous willingness to answer any and all questions!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Erica,
Good question! Assuming you used oil-based primer you should be ok, but it wouldn’t hurt to do one more thin and even coat just to be sure (after this one thoroughly dries to avoid further bleed through). In regular instances on thin coat never looks even but usually does the trick, but since the wood grain is coming through a bit more than expected another thin and even coat applied after the first one dries wouldn’t be a bad idea). Then once that coat dries you can move on to thin and even coats of latex paint. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Laura says
Hi,
You have great ideas! Do you have any suggestions on filling in dings in furniture that I plan on priming and painting? Also any brand suggestions for paint and primer? Thank you in advance for any additional tips!
Laura
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Laura,
It always helps to sand things down (sometimes that gets rid of dings) and wood putty is the best way that we’ve found to further fill them in. Just check out your local home improvement store and see what specific wood fillers they recommend. Then don’t forget to let everything dry, sand it down to smooth it out again, and move on to the oil-based primer step. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Meg says
Hi guys!
Hope the pregnancy is going well, you two must be so excited!
I’m due with my second little one next month and my husband is about to venture into painting our nursery dressers(nothing like waiting until the last few weeks!!) I’m looking to paint two dressers white and I LOVE the look you all achieved on your porch table. Do you mind sharing what brand/color of white paint you used? Hopefully this hasn’t already been asked….
Thanks guys and Happy New Year!
Meg
YoungHouseLove says
Good question! It’s Benjamin Moore’s Decorators White in semi-gloss (which we also used for all the trim in our house). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Kimberly says
Just finished painting my daughter’s dresser and night stand. I followed every step of your tutorial and it turned out PERFECT!!! Thanks so much. Now I am very tempted to painted my bedroom furniture white.
YoungHouseLove says
That’s great! We’re so excited to hear that it worked out so well for you. Congrats!
xo,
s
Laura says
Hi Again,
I have begun painting furniture for our daughter’s room and things are going pretty well! My only concern is that I chose to use a roller to apply both the oil primer and latex paint and while it is going very quickly the roller seems to be leaving an orange peel finish. I know that this is not your application method of choice but do you have any ideas why this could be happening? Could it be that the nap is too long on the roller? I did choose one for a smooth finish but maybe it is not high quality enough?
Thanks for all your help!
Laura
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Laura,
Sorry about your roller troubles! You’re right about that not being the method we recommend, but your guess that you might need a higher quality roller could definitely be correct. We like Purdy as a brand (available at Home Depot) and of course getting something made for “smooth surfaces” with less of a nap would hopefully help. When in doubt of course you could switch over to our recommended brush method as well. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Jackie Burt says
i have brand new kids furniture that is Adler wood and I need it in white color. Should I sand it and then paint it or can I apply primer and then paint white?
YoungHouseLove says
It should definitely have enough tooth to go straight to the priming step without any sanding, just be sure to use oil-based and not water-based primer so the tones of the wood don’t bleed through and ruin your finish. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Kim Little says
I love your ideas, i will be painting an entire bedroom suite. I will keep you guys posted. Thanks!!!!
Kim Little says
By the way we are military serving in Germany!!!
YoungHouseLove says
Good luck with everything all the way over in Germany! Happy painting!
xo,
s
Jen says
I want to experiment with a faux finish on an old chest. It has a coat of latex paint on it already. Do I still need to prime it with the oil based primer?
YoungHouseLove says
For the best adhesion oil-based primer is definitely a better-safe-than-sorry step (peeling and bubbling finishes mean starting all over again so primer is always a safe foundation coat). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Amanda says
I saw your postings and am excited to start painting my black kitchen table either cream or brown. How extensive do you recommend the sanding? I have a table from World Market that has a shiny finish and want to make sure I sand enough for the primer to really stick and not allow the paint to chip or crack. I have five boys and they love to make messes! I will keep you posted and thanks for making this sound so easy to do!
YoungHouseLove says
As you suspect, you should sand as thoroughly as possible (sides, tabletop, legs, etc) so that every plane of the table is scuffed up and no longer shiny. If there are still shiny areas just keep sanding ’til they’re gone. Easy, eh? Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Kim Little says
Wanted you guys to know I am still sanding, trying to get rid of all shiny spots. Wow what did I get myself into!!<3
Kerry Velliquette says
OMG!!! Where have you been all my blog life?? I am so thrilled to read a real life blog that explains color and details to every project even ROOM BY ROOM!! I luv everything you 2 do!! I need help bad with picking out color for two pieces of furniture in my kitchen. 1 is a rather large shelf and the other is a mirror. I don’t know how to send you a pic since I don’t have a blog for an url. I really could use your help! Sleepless in Ohio over paint color. :)
YoungHouseLove says
We have the solution! We actually wrote a post about all of our favorite paint colors (they’re tried and true and we’ve seen them all in action). Just grab as many suggested swatches as you’d like and bring them home to see which ones will work best in your space on those pieces. You really can’t go wrong!
https://www.younghouselove.com/2009/06/email-answer-picking-the-perfect-paint-color/
xo,
s
Kerry says
Thanks for the reply…that does help…but, on another note, I still need some of your PROFESSIONAL guidance:) the kitchen color is red brick dust-warm oak cabinets-black island-black interior doors-white trim-black/brick red/olive green/cream flowered valances what color would you recommend for the wooden pieces in the room (lg.shelf,lg.mirror/shelf piece)? black,beige,white antiqued or another color? I have painted these 2 poor pieces 3 times and don’t know which is right. Hubby is going nuts:) The accent pieces in here are white plates,mercury glass, apothecary jars and bell cloches.
Thanks so much:) Kerry
YoungHouseLove says
We think painting them either white or antiqued white (to pick up on the white plates and complement the mercury glasses/apothecary jars/bell cloches) would be amazing. It’ll have sort of an elegant and warm cottage vibe. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Kerry says
Thank you for your expertise :) White it is.I can’t wait to get the paint brush out..again lolol You 2 are amazing. I admire your passion for what you do. I wished I could get my hubby to help more with all of my fab plans. Which brings me to ask..I didn’t see a tutorial / video on cutting molding. Do you have one that shows how to cut crown molding,chair rails etc..I would lurv to cut my own moldings or should I say, I have no other choice;P I guess he would do it sooner or later…more later with tons of grumbling..so I would just be better off to do it myself. And with my projects I want them done yesterday.:) Also, one last question..can I put a drum shade right on my existing ceiling fan? Do I have to buy some kind of different bottom, my fan has 4 very outdated looking tulip glass things. I think it would look fab with the drum shade like yours. Thank you again:) Oh….I just had to subscribe to the Nest after seeing it on your blog! You made cover-SO awesome!
YoungHouseLove says
The closest thing we have to a tutorial about cutting molding is this post published just yesterday about cutting and installing trim and baseboard (it’s the same basic premise and you could use all of the same materials). Hope it helps! As for putting a drum shade on your existing fan, here’s a post about that and another post about putting a drum shade on a regular exposed ceiling light. In both cases we used a regular drum shade from the store and just inverted it (we have pics in those posts and even in the comment section of them to further outline our technique). We removed the glass light cover first- so you’ll want to remove the tulip-shaped glass light covers and see if you can secure a large drum shade so that it looks centered and hides all of the formerly exposed bulbs. It’s really all about trial and error so feel free to purchase a few different shades, all of which you can return if it doesn’t work out. Good luck!
xo,
s
Kerry says
Thank you so much:)
Margot says
sherry! thank you so much for this posting. my fiance and I just bought a 1972 shag pad…and I’ve been surfing your website ever since to help focus some of our ideas and protect our bank account = )
we have a dining set that is about 6 1/2 years old and will look beautiful with a new paint job. can’t wait to try out your techniques!
Kim Little says
O.K., So I think I really messed up here? I think I put my second coat of Paint before the first was really dry..what in the world do I do now? Please dont say “SAND” YIKES!!! It looks bubble free<3
YoungHouseLove says
If it looks good just do a little dance and promise the paint gods you’ll never do it again! Lucky gal.
xo,
s
Kim Little says
You can see alot of brush strokes, will the poly help that or should I sand alittle?
YoungHouseLove says
Oh then in that case a little gentle sanding with high grit paper (at least 150 grit) should smooth everything out. Then you just need one more light coat of paint and it’s poly time. Be sure to let everything thoroughly dry between coats though! And be sure that the paint is fully dry before you attempt to sand things. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Kim Little says
Thank you, I will wait 48 hours before the light sanding!
Tiffany says
So I have attacked my furniture with paint. Couple questions……
*Paint inperfections, is it as easy as just sanding them out?
*I did a satin paint on my furniture, wish it had a little bit more shine. Will the clear gloss poly help with that or should I get something different?
*How long after painting can I start on the poly?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Tiffany,
You want to do your best to avoid paint imperfections (drips, drag marks, etc) in the first place, so be sure to use a high quality brush, apply thin and even coats, wait ample time between coats, brush away any drips quickly, and resist the urge to go over any painted areas once they have begun to dry (even five minutes later can cause bad drag marks and brush strokes). That being said, you can definitely sand things down a bit to reduce the appearance of paint imperfections. As for the poly, it will add some additional sheen, so that’s good news. Just be sure to apply thin and even coats with enough drying time between them (resist the urge to slop it on there heavily in an attempt to get more of a glossy effect, all you’ll get is a bumpy and yellowed finish). We would suggest waiting at least four hours after painting before applying your first coat of poly (even longer in humid areas). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Mother of 6, Nana to 1 says
Love this site!!!! Question on my dresser. I have a bachelor’s chest with matching amoire. It is pine with natural stain and varish. The chest (dresser) has a small bubble on the top where someone (hubby) left a sweaty glass. The top is obviously veneered. I am painting both pieces black (satin finish) but can’t figure out how to hide this bubble. Thought of having a marble or granite overlay done, but costly. Can I remove the bubble without removing the veneered top?
YoungHouseLove says
It’s certainly worth a try! First we would suggest attempting to sand it down to see if you can get a more smooth top coat. You could also use something like “Bar Coat” which is a thick varnish you pour over the top for a bar-like gloss to “bury” the bubble and create a smooth top once again. We’d suggest asking around at your local home improvement center after trying to sand it down. Good luck!
xo,
s
siobhan says
I have a dining room table that looks like it might be pressed wood. Would latex paint work well on it?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Siobhan,
You definitely want to check with your local home improvement store to see what they recommend. Pressed wood won’t “absorb” primer and paint the same way solid wood will, so you might need something to “etch” the surface to create a nice foundation for primer and paint. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Tiffany says
Thanks so much for your help. I just had one more question. So I went to HomeDepo yesterday to get more supplies, not sure how we got into it, but the employee that was helping me asked if I used food safe paint for my kitchen table. Didn’t know they made paint like that…. Point… I used your run of the mill everyday paint and am now kinda freaking out that I didn’t use food safe because I have two cute little ones and more on the way…….I haven’t done the poly finish yet. Is that food safe????? Will that make the table food friendly for my babies…………
YoungHouseLove says
Ooh good question! We think if you seal it with something non-toxic and food safe (like the Safecoat stuff that we used to seal our vanity) it should make the entire table food safe enough for your little ones to gnaw on the table itself! Here’s a link to the post that mentions Safecoat: https://www.younghouselove.com/2010/01/tackling-the-bathroom-chapter-seven/
Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Stephanie says
Just wondering: Do you have a post about when to strip paint off old furniture versus just priming and painting? In particular, I’m thinking of painting some old wood dressers (2 solid wood and 1 that’s either wood or MDF) that were once painted eons ago. Just wondering what the best route might be.
(Wow, I can’t believe how much mileage is on this one post, but I’m so glad you keep answering the posts/questions!)
YoungHouseLove says
If paint is flaking, peeling, bumpy or otherwise uneven in any way it should be stripped or at least sanded down (which can usually do the trick without all those harsh chemicals). If it’s smooth and even but you just want to change the color there’s no need to sand as long as the paint isn’t super glossy (but it can’t really hurt if you want extra credit). The oil-based primer will definitely create a great foundation for you (even on previously painted pieces). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Stephanie says
Sorry, another question. You mention using oil-based primer. For the low/no-VOC formulas, I’m only coming up with acrylic or water-based primers. Is that OK? What type of paint should be used in conjunction with those? Thanks ever so much!
Stephanie
YoungHouseLove says
Definitely choose newer acrylic based primers and avoid water-based ones at all costs (even if the guys at the counter tell you they’re just as good, from experience we have not found this to be true). You can also scroll up to see many people lamenting the “mistake” of using water-based primer so we always go for oil-based over anything else (and leave things outside to air out and dry so our house doesn’t get fumey). But in places like California and New Jersey where they’re phasing out the oil-based stuff, the enamel-based or acrylic-based primers seem to work harder than the water-based varieties. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Alicia says
Hi!
My husband and I got married in November, and just moved into our first house! We’ll be referencing your blog OFTEN as we take on various projects!
I apologize if you’ve answered this question before, but I’m trying to paint one of my husband’s ‘bachelor’ tables to create a little kitchen table for us. The piece is solid wood but has a yucky varnish on top. I just finished sanding it down and had good success (might give it a second go-round tomorrow). We just painted our kitchen white with the Home Depot brand ‘primer and paint’ in one – 100% latex – satin finish. Should I still go buy some oil based primer, even though there’s primer in the paint we have? I have already purchased the Minwax water-based poly you recommended. Thank you so much! Your blog is amazing.
Alicia
YoungHouseLove says
Good question! If you want the added protection and durability (since it’s such a highly used table) you should definitely spring for the oil-based primer as a base (it really does add an amazing foundation under the paint- much more so than built in latex based primer). But we understand if you just want to skip the extra step and use the two-in-one primer/paint that you already have. It’s really your call, so it depends how thorough you want to be. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Stephanie (again) says
OK, so I’m back with another question: Some of the furniture I’m looking to paint is my childhood furniture (probably painted before 1978 when lead paint was phased out) Any tips or advice about repainting furniture that MAY have been originally painted with lead paint? Thanks ever so much!
YoungHouseLove says
You definitely should do a simple and easy lead paint test on it (you can grab a lead paint test stick at Home Depot for less than $6). Then if it’s positive you’ll either want to “seal” the lead paint in with something like Safecoat (you can google it to learn more) or remove it with a wet gel stripper (stripping lead paint when it’s wet is the only safe way to remove it- never sand it because it becomes a dust that is airborne and can easily be inhaled!). Maybe it won’t have lead after all, which would be great, but it’s always worth checking since it’s just a simple and easily accessible test. Good luck!
xo,
s
Kristi Rediske says
I am priming a dresser and buffet-then painting them white. I used a primer that was for non sanding(I did sand some) anyway-I then painted 2 coats of white and now I can see a little of the brown wood coming through-any suggestions? Do I need to sand it a little and prime again-would it have worked better with an oil base primer? If so-could I use that on top of the white coat and sort of start over. Thanks for any help-your blog is so fun-thanks for having it-you two are histerical! HA!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Kristi,
Yup, unfortunately we recommend the above method explicitly in our step by step tutorial for a reason: it’s always what works best for us! We definitely are big believers in oil-based primer (and have used other primers in the past without much success- brown tones always bleed and stains slowly seep through… then we’re forced to start all over again). For your situation we would recommend sanding everything enough to rough it up and then following our steps outlined above in this very post (including oil-based primer). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Alicia says
Thank you for the advice! I’ll definitely spring for some oil based primer, and will make good use of it with some other pieces that need a little freshening up, too!
Stephanie says
If I used the Safecoat, it looks like it’s a final step.
After the sealant, could I safely paint the furniture?
Thanks and sorry for the multiple questions.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Stephanie,
We’re not really sure but perhaps reading the can or asking around at your local home improvement store will shed light on the subject! Good luck!
xo,
s
Kristi Rediske says
Ok-thanks for your help-another question-I am using the minwax clear polycrlic over white paint and it seems to be turning yellow-i want the buffet to remain white-could this be caused by the item not having oil base primer under the paint-the paint looked pure white. Sure hope I am not driving you nuts-maybe I will have to sand it down and start over too.
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, it definitely could be. You also might not be putting it on thin enough or waiting for it to fully dry between coats. You want it as thin as the shell of an egg- not globby at all or it’ll definitely turn yellow. We have used that exact polycrilic for many white-paint projects and it has never yellowed for us when we follow the steps outlined in this post. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Kristi Rediske says
WOW-Thanks so much for replying so fast-I will see what happens while it dries-maybe I did put it on to thick. I appreciate sooooo much you helping-makes me smile-I will smile even more if i can get this project finished. HA!
Stephanie says
Thanks Sherry, for the info about painting over lead-based paint.
I don’t have a final answer yet, but I’ve been talking with various home improvement stores and here’s the suggestions I’ve received so far, in case it might help others (in increasing order of the method I will most likely try):
1) Paint with primer and paint (don’t sand/prep in any way) and see how the coverage is. In theory, the lead is encapsulated (and therefore, safe).
2) Strip with soy-based paint stripper, then use primer and paint.
3) Try AFM Safecoat Hard Seal to see if it will adhere. If not, try SafeSeal. Then use primer and paint. Don’t sand/prep the sealant prior to topping it with primer/paint.
In any case, as you mentioned, never dry sand lead-based paint at all. Hope this helps someone.
YoungHouseLove says
Thanks so much for all the info! It’ll definitely come in handy for others who drop in with lead questions. We had heard about Safecoat and SafeSeal along with soy based strippers (since they’re wet and much safer than sanding) so it’s good to know that you received the same advice! We have also heard the whole prime-and-paint-right over-it-to-safely-encapsulate-the-lead theory but you really have to decide where the furniture will go to determine if that’s the right choice. For example, in a child’s bedroom we think stripping with the soy stuff is much safer in the long run since kids can gnaw right through the new paint and primer and swallow the old paint chips amazingly quickly. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Andrea says
Hi,
I was wondering if you could give me any additional advice. My husband and I are having a hard time with very visible brush strokes (attempting to refinish a french provincial dresser). Of course we have sanded the piece multiple times now :). We have tried latex paint with a purdy brush, acrylic paint with foam brush, oil based paint with a purdy brush and the result is always the same…lots of brush strokes. What else should we try?
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Maybe it’s the paint application since it seems like it’s not the brush or roller. You really want to put on thin and even coats of paint (about as thick as an eggshell) so if you’re glopping anything on much thicker than that then it’s easy for the brush or the roller to “dig in” to what you’re applying and leave a marred finish behind. You also want to be sure that each coat is completely dry (ideally for several hours) before applying the next one so that you’re not creating little strokes in the almost-dry paint from the previous application. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Pauline says
Great tips. I hope to put them to good use. Many thanks
Kim Little says
Would love to show u more pics of my finished product..Can I email you, and how..Can I just say thanks…I am lookin to do the second guest bedroom when I return from the “STATES”!!!!!!!!KIM
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Kim,
Congrats on your finished product! You can email us by clicking the button on our sidebar that says “Click here to contact the youngsters.” Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Justin says
Wow, just discovered this site and I like the personal way you provide ideas. I’m trying to decide whether to use paintbrush+latex or spray paint for some furniture, and I noticed that you have used both. Any suggestions for what method you prefer for what type of furniture? I have only spray painted my computer case before for a mirror finish(sanding 2000 grit, clearcoat etc.), with good results, but that was small metal instead of medium-large wood furniture.
YoungHouseLove says
We always recommend a brush with oil-based primer followed by two thin and even coats of latex paint when it comes to wood furniture. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Tiffany says
So I put the polycrylic clear gloss recomminded on my newly black painted table. And I am finding it is almost impossible to clean. Any water, milk, wet food (and believe its alot, I have two toddlers eating at this table) leaves a soggy print on the table. Then when I go to clean it up with a wet rag it just leaves an even bigger mess. I have even tried rubbing it down with a dry soft cloth to polish it out. What did I do wrong, I put three layers of the gloss, is that not enough? Would it help to put more? Or is that just the nature of having a black table? Or do you have any other recommendations to make cleaning this table not impossible task? Thank you so much, Tiffany
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Tiffany,
Well, a few things could be attributing to the problem but it’s definitely not normal for any piece (black, white or any other color) to have such a hard time with moisture or food once it has been poly’d. First of all, perhaps the poly did not fully cure before you put it into use. If each layer was not applied super thinly, and then given ample time to dry between coats, there could be an issue with the piece not fully hardening so it has more of a wipe-ability issue. You also might have had muggy or humid or moist conditions during the drying process that slowed the cure time so it might just have needed a bit longer before being put into use.
Secondly, it’s rare, but sometimes stores sell expired finishes like poly and paint. This could result in the sub-par results that you’re experiencing. Either way our advice would be to sand the entire piece down again, apply one super thin coat of oil-based primer, wait a full 24 hours and then apply one thin and even coat of latex paint, wait another 12 hours and apply the second coat of black latex paint, and then wait 24 hours to apply each thin and even coat of poly (three paper-thin coats of poly applied a day apart should definitely allow your piece to fully cure between applications). Then just wait another 72 hours before putting it to use (just in case it’s muggy, rainy, humid, etc) to be sure that it fully hardens. You should be able to rub runny eggs, toothpaste, and pasta all over it without any “soggy prints.” Of course you’ll still have to wipe away any food or water messes (which can show up more obviously on a glossy black surface) but they should remain on the surface and not soak into the piece- and after you wipe it down and it dries the table should look flawless again. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
tiffany says
Thank you so much for your help and answering my millions of questions thru this process. I am definitly a first timer. Hopefully I will get this the second time around!!!
Lisa says
Just discovered the site yesterday and love it thank you!I am paint a black table off white and following your steps went to lowes and bought the (what I was told was oil based primer) only to find out later was water based…Was about to take it back and the guy swore up and down water was just as good and clean up was better (its a Valspor High Hiding Primer)…After reading again your steps, should I take this back and get the oil based?
Thanks so much!
Lisa
Debbie McDorman says
Hi guys, This is my first foray into painting any type of furniture and you are by far the best site I’ve found for clear instructions as well as current comment activity! I have an Ethan Allen bedroom set, triple dresser, king headboard, 2 night stands and I desperately need a new look. I would love to have it a kind of a worn cream color. What should I use to get this affect? It is a medium wood tone right now.
YoungHouseLove says
You’re in luck. Here’s a post with all of our favorite paint colors (so you can grab a bunch of cream swatches that we love and bring them home to see what looks right in your space). Once you prime your furniture it doesn’t matter what color wood it is to start with and every paint swatch you choose will be true to life on the furniture since the primer is a great “reset button” base that keeps the wood tone from altering the tone. Hope it helps!
https://www.younghouselove.com/2009/06/email-answer-picking-the-perfect-paint-color/
xo,
s
Caroline says
Hi there,
I just bought a vintage wood dresser off of craigslist, and I’d like to paint it white for a nursery. I’m pregnant and would like to avoid fumes as much as possible so I’m looking for advice on effective, low VOC primers and paints. Do you have any recs?
Many thanks!
Caroline
YoungHouseLove says
Definitely check your local yellow pages or google around for an eco-friendly shop in your area. Here in Richmond, Virginia we have a place called EcoLogic where they sell no VOC primer and paint (we recently used the paint in our nursery and love the result). We’ve also heard of sites like Green Depot which sell earth (& baby) friendly items like paint and other home improvement things. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Peter says
Hi, quick question regarding the Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish. You suggested applying two coats but did not mention anything about sanding in between coats. The Minwax product above says to sand with 220-grit between coats. Do we sand?
YoungHouseLove says
The directions on the poly do mention sanding ever so lightly with high grit paper between applications but we have never had to take the time to do that since we apply such thin and even coats (as thin as a piece of paper) so there aren’t any drips or gloppy parts to smooth out with sandpaper. Depending on how your poly applications go on you can make the call whether to sand or not- although it’s definitely not necessary at all if you follow our thin and even instructions outlined in the post above. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
helen thorkelsen says
40 years ago I bought a painted antique cubbard. It is painted with black milk paint and there is hand painting on the piece . The glass is really old with imperfections .
I loved this piece for years and would like to refinish over this dear piece that has been a real statement in my home. I just want a change and would like to paint it a pale soft green and then give it an antique look. I have seen new pieces made to look old. It is old , I just am tired of the black. The gold around the glass is gold leaf. I would prefer not to change that part. Any ideas> Thanks so much. Helen
YoungHouseLove says
Just follow the priming and painting instructions above but take care to leave the gold leafed edging alone so it still shows through. Then you’ll get rid of the black while maintaining that lovely detail. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Kristin says
Hi, I also have a painting question. I’m wanting to repaint my childhood, white, bedroom furniture for my tween daughter. The furniture is solid- no particle board and such. Do I need to sand it, or can I just put on primer and then paint furniture. I hate sanding, because I tend to damage wood. Thanks in advance.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Kristin,
There’s no need to sand it unless it’s super shiny (in which case you can use high grit paper like 200 which can’t do much damage). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Mary says
This is a wonderful and informative!
Question; I have a 25+ year old light oak table/chair dining room set. The finish is worn and a bit distressed. What do you think if I refinished the top (darker oak) and painted the base and chairs black?
Where do I begin? Products, sheen, do I strip or sand (as you’ve mentioned in some of the above feedback)?
Thanks a bunch! Mary
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Mary,
Just visit any home improvement store and tell the paint pros what you intend to do and they’ll lead you in the right direction. We love the idea of refinishing the top and painting the base and the chairs black. You’ll probably want to go for semi-gloss paint (or flat paint with poly) to keep things nice and wipe-able. As for whether to sand, it can’t hurt just as we said in this very post. Just follow our tutorial (sanding is extra credit and we don’t mention stripping because we prefer sanding and primer which create quite a good base in most cases). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
mary says
me again!
thank you for the info on painting/stripping my dining room table and chairs. what brand and color should i use for the table base and chairs, would a black be too harsh? i like the effects you see with thomsville and pottery barn furniture, yet did not know if it was an expresso or similar shade to appear black in nature.
thank you bunches! oh, i am contemplating stripping the table top and refinishing it in a richer oak stain, what color stain would you go with, and what do you think about stripping the seats of the chairs to match the table top? thank you.
YoungHouseLove says
I’m afraid that’s all personal preference! Just visit any local home improvement store and look at their black swatches and see which one you like. We have had good luck with Glidden’s Dark Secret (it’s a nice soft black that’s not too harsh) but in different lighting situations it’ll look different. As for stain it’s also all about what you like. We always like a dark walnut color but they vary by brand so just visit a home improvement store and see what you like (plus you can ask the paint pros there for any help that you need).
xo,
s
Mary says
Hey-
I stripped the top of my table and leaves also applied the walnut stain, no poly yet. There are areas on the leaves which appear to have taken the walnut stain darker. Could I have caused the wood to become too porous by not wiping the stripper off, allowing some “globs” to sit? I applied two coats of the stain in hopes to blend the areas, no such luck. What do you suggest? Thank you. Mary
YoungHouseLove says
Eeks! That’s why we much prefer sanding to stripping. It’s a lot more even and error proof. Our advice (if you truly don’t like the stain application and believe that it’s uneven) is to let it all dry and sand everything down to the same color bare wood- hopefully that’ll even things out for a smoother application. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Justin says
I restained and added poly to an end table and it looks fantastic. I also painted some drawers and they looked great, but once I added poly the faint brush lines don’t seem to blend in like they did with the paint layer and I can see them in direct light. Is this to be expected, or am I missing something with my polycrylic technique.
YoungHouseLove says
Glad to hear that it’s looking fantastic! When it comes to poly application, the key is to apply super thin and even coats (with the grain of the wood) so they go on more like one super thin layer of shine (aim for the thickness of a sheet of paper or an eggshell). If you apply things thicker in an attempt to get a super glossy layer (instead of building it up with two or three thin layers) it’ll show a lot more strokes since it’s a deeper application and the bristles “cut” into the poly and can show even after things dry. If you were applying the poly as thinly as possible along the grain of the wood and still see very subtle strokes in the end, fear not. That super subtle linear look just mimics the grain of the wood so it should fit right in and look polished and finished, even if it’s not 100% flat. Hope it helps!
xo,
s