Whether you’re interested in painting a chair, a table, or any other wooden piece of furniture, the steps are pretty much the same.
Take this table that we built and subsequently painted along with the accompanying white chairs (which used to be a golden blond wood tone).
Sprucing things up with a fresh coat of white paint took them from thrift store (where we got the table base) to Pottery Barn (which sells a similar version of it for 500 beans) in just a few hours.
But enough jibber-jabber. On with the how-to deets:
Step 1- Evaluate the surface of the piece that you’d like to paint. If it’s a sleek glossy surface (like varnished or sealed wood) you’ll want to gently sand the entire piece with 100 grit sandpaper). If it’s more of a dry chalky texture (like unfinished wood or flat paint) you can forgo the sandpaper and skip right to step two.
Step 2- Break out the oil-based primer to ensure that the paint sticks and no stains come through and ruin your finish (we’ve also used Zinsser Smart Prime with great success, which is a low-VOC stain-blocking primer that’s not oil-based – so it’s less stinky). Give the entire piece a good once over with a small foam roller or a paint brush. This coat of primer doesn’t have to be perfectly even in tone (it’ll probably look thinner in some areas since that’s how primer rolls) but as long as the entire piece is well covered – and it’s not too gloppy and thick – it’s ready for step three once it dries.
Step 3- Use a fresh small foam roller or paint brush to apply two thin and even coats of latex paint (a semi-gloss finish is usually best since it’s nice a wipe-able and durable choice). Many people mistakenly think that latex paint isn’t supposed to be applied over oil-based primer, but the real painting no-no is applying latex paint over oil-based paint, which is a guaranteed bubble-fest and should be avoided at all costs. And a word about small foam rollers vs. brushes: according to experts, all rollers – especially if used too quickly- may rile up the paint and lead to bubbles while paint brushes are the most bubble free application method known to man (although you might have brush stroke issues if the paint isn’t applied thinly enough or given ample drying time between coats).
We painted the table above with a paint brush, not a roller. But we have also used small foam rollers with great success, so those are actually our recommended choice for beginners since they cut down on brush strokes or drippy finishes and seem to be the most error proof. No matter what you use, be sure to wait until the first coat of paint is thoroughly dry before applying a second coat (each coat should be applied super lightly and evenly – aim for the thickness of an eggshell or a piece of paper). This thin application is the key to avoiding brush strokes or roller marks for a smooth, gorgeous finish. Repeat after me: three or even four super thin coats are far better than one or two thick and drippy ones!
Step 4- This step is optional, so think of it as extra credit. Brushing on two thin and even coats of water-based poly for wipe-able protection that really goes the extra mile (and provides a glossy oh-so-luxe sheen) can’t hurt if you pick the right stuff. The only two brands that we’ve ever used with unmatched success are these two, so they’re our strong recommendation (other types can yellow or crack over time):
- Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish in “Clear Gloss” (found at any home improvement center)
- Safecoat Acrylacq (which is a low-VOC, non-toxic alternative sold at eco boutiques or online at places like greendepot.com)
We went the extra mile and applied poly to our white table above for a bit of added protection, and we even thinly polyed the chairs since they need to be just as easy to wipe down due to their proximity to food whenever we dine in the sunroom. Thin is definitely the operative word, and again you’ll want to be sure to let the first coat thoroughly dry before going in for the second. Any time you go over semi-wet paint or poly to smooth things out you’ll get terrible drag marks, so work from one side to the other and never go back over things until they’re completely dry.
Step 5- Wait at least a full 72 hours to place objects on your newly painted piece to avoid dents or divots in your finish. If you really want to be on the safe side, we’d recommend waiting five full days. Sometimes factors like humidity and primer/paint/poly thickness can keep things from fully curing up, and you don’t want to get indents from using your newly painted piece too quickly. Waiting this long might take some willpower because you’re dying to sit on/eat on/enjoy your brand new piece, but it’s worth the wait. Promise.
Easy, right? Ok, those were a lot of words, so it might sound complicated. But just take things one step at a time. And remember to breathe. You can totally do it. There’s really no reason to live with wood furniture that’s not exactly the tone or the shade that you’d like. So from painting an old side table a handsome glossy black to giving a scratched up wooden chair a cheerful red tone, it’s definitely a project that you can confidently tackle in an afternoon. Go forth and paint something!
*Oh and it bears noting that if your furniture item is anything other than solid wood or veneered wood (like laminate, melamine, etc) you should visit your local hardware store and ask the paint pro there what they recommend for that surface. There are some great oil-based primers and enamel paints out there (which are changing all the time) so it might be possible to get a great result. The key is really roughing up the surface so it’s less glossy and then priming and painting with the best stuff they have (usually oil or enamel based).Good luck!
Psst- In the market for a quick cabinet painting tutorial? Look no further.
Psssst- Wondering how to paint a brick fireplace? Wonder no more.
Pssssssst- Itching to paint wood paneling? Try this.
Jana Garza says
Ruh Roh. I just spent hours, days, weekends sanding and spray painting four, yes FOUR :(, chairs white and applied one coat of Wipe On Poly. I’m now hearing that they will yellow. It’s only been three days since I applied it, no yellowing, but I don’t want to risk it.
What should I do at this point? Can I do a light sand, spray paint a couple more coats and then apply the correct poly?
Love your blog, read it each and every day. :) Thanks for any tips you might have on this mess.
YoungHouseLove says
It sounds like you’re in the clear! They’ll usually yellow as they “cure” (aka: dry) so three days out means you’re probably safe. Don’t do a thing and enjoy those chairs of yours!
xo,
s
Jana Garza says
Oh that is great news. I’ll keep my eyes on them just to be sure…..cannot believe I did that without researching it first after all the work I put into them!
So if they don’t yellow right away, they won’t yellow over time either?
YoungHouseLove says
That’s a possibility, but usually about 80-95% of the yellowing happens right away as it dries. So sure after twenty years they might yellow a bit (any sort of poly will yellow over decades, that’s why hardwood floors look a bit yellow after 50 years) but you’re definitely lucky not to have noticed anything major off the bat. It bodes well for those chairs lasting a very long time without a tinge of yellow. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Jana Garza says
Thank you! Sounds like it might not be worth the extra work of sanding and re-painting!
mary says
I’ve almost completed my dining room furniture project, just one more question. I refinished the seats of the chairs to reflect the hard oak, painted the legs and back in black. I am now down to the spindles on the back where they meet up with the refinished oak seat….. how do I painted the tiny spindles where they meet up with the seat? I fear if I tape the seat area it will possibly damage the newly refinished wood, but I also fear a dribble of black paint on it too! Suggestion, please. Thanks a bunch!
YoungHouseLove says
We would just use a tiny craft brush (from Michael’s instead of Home Depot) to get into all those little areas, and maybe you can use a bit of painter’s tape to stop the drips from getting on the seat, but stick it to your pants like ten times so it’s “linty” and therefore a lot less sticky so it won’t damage the refinishing job. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Lindsey says
WoW! What an awesome blog. I’m doing the same thing-making over my first home one piece of furniture at a time. Right now I’m working on a large bedroom set. I bought it on craigslist and sanded it down, primed it, and painted it a greyish black. Now comes the protective finish…but I’m scared! I bought polycrylic by Minwax and have read and reread the instructions. I have a quality synthetic brush; but, am afraid when going over the detailed doors of the armoire or the long legnth of the dresser top that I will have hideous brush stroles. Any suggestions? Foam brush? Roller? Help?!
YoungHouseLove says
No way! Avoid those at all costs. They rile up the poly and make bubbles and imperfections. Definitely use a high quality brush and apply thin thin thin coats (as thin as an eggshell or a piece of paper). You only get brush strokes if it’s too thick or you’re not waiting for it to fully dry before going over it again (no touching up certain parts a minute later because it’ll start to dry and you’ll get brush drag marks). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Yen says
I used to think that redesigning a home would cost big bucks, but your blog has really inspired me to find cheap ways to update my home. :) My first project was to paint a veneer coffee table black. After lightly sanding and priming, I walked away to wait for it to dry. My dad, trying to be helpful, saw that it was dry and applied *another* coat of primer (not sure why…), but of course he did it in the *other* direction of the grain. So now, after 3 coats of latex paint, the brush strokes are still very obvious. I was going to hand sand it down a bit (with ~220 grit paper) and then apply another coat of latex paint. Do you think this will be suffice or do I have to sand down to the veneer (which I’m nervous to do) and prime/paint over again? Thanks in advance for your help! You guys are so sweet to always answer everyone’s questions.
Also, would there be any chance of you doing a “how-to paint” video? No matter how much I read about the right technique to paint, I keep messing it up. I think seeing it done will make it click better in my head, and your videos are always so helpful. Thanks again!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Yen,
No worries! We think sanding down just that latex paint and a bit of the second coat of primer (until it’s smooth and there are no longer obvious brushstrokes) should be just fine. Just try to evenly sand so you don’t hit veneer in some spots while others are more shallow. It shouldn’t be that hard though. You’ll do great!
As for a how-to-paint video, we’ll definitely put it on our (admittedly very long) to-do list. Thanks for the suggestion! Here’s hoping we can tackle it someday…
xo,
s
Shannon says
I have a client that had us build custom bookcases with built-in desks. My painter sprayed them with a latex eggshell paint (Benjamin Moore color mink in a Behr base). All was well until the cabinet maker put the doors on and messed up the surface of the desk. At this point the carpet was put in so spraying is no longer an option. The homeowner wanted a glass smooth desktop surface. When the carpenter added few doors he also messed up the painted surface. My painter sanded and then rolled on paint with a foam brush. Now we have a bubbly surface on the desktop and a few cabinet doors. There are also some knicks that need to be corrected. Can you advise on the best way to fix this issue without changing paint or having to repaint all of the cabinets? I am trying to keep the homeowner from having a bad experience. Thank you so much for your help.
YoungHouseLove says
Your best bet would be to sand everything down with 200 grit paper until it’s nice and smooth and apply two to three very very very thin and even coats of the semi gloss or gloss latex paint (with a paint brush and not a roller) to salvage everything and end up with a nice glossy finish. Then be sure to let everything cure up and dry for days (at least three to five full days) before resting anything on the desktops or using the cabinets- and just to be safe you can wait a full week. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Heather S. says
I painted a a solid oak clawfoot table white(don’t cringe) after lightly sanding. I’m already getting chipped paint, after only a few months. I applied a Minwax latex/water-based topcoat…I wish I would have known about the oil-based primer and not to use foam rollers. At this point, should I prime over the latex and repaint, or try to remove/strip all finishes and start over?
Thanks,
Heather
YoungHouseLove says
We would sand it all down as much as possible before priming it (since if your paint isn’t adhered correctly, priming over that won’t keep it from chipping). Then once you have it all sanded down (of course you can also use a chemical stripper but we like sandpaper because it’s less stinky and messy) you can follow the oil-based primer, latex paint, Minwax top coat steps that are outlined above. Hope it helps! And good luck!
xo,
s
Andrea M. says
Hi there,
I have become addicted to your blog since a friend of mine recommended it to me – LOVE it! Keep up the good work!
Just curious – is there a particular type of oil-based primer that you prefer and that works well? I’ve never used an oil-based primer before when painting furniture.
Thanks in advance!
YoungHouseLove says
We like Kilz, but it comes in water based and oil based formulas so make sure you snag the one that says oil-based and also has the word “stainblocker” as well as the word “primer” on the can for the most protection. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Marcia B says
I bought alot of furniture trimmed in glossy green (when green was in) and now that it’s not, would like to paint it black. I think the spindle legs are my greatest concern. Would it be better to paint them with a brush, or spray paint them so it will be more even? Do you still recommend sanding the paint down, and what type of paint should I use?
YoungHouseLove says
If the paint is super glossy or varnished/lacquered, we would definitely recommend sanding things down a bit for better adhesion. If it’s not you’ll be fine just going to the primer step. And as for spindle legs, assuming you apply thin and even coats you should get great coverage with a brush- just be patient and take your time (and let things dry thoroughly between coats). You could use spray paint but it’s usually a less durable and long term solution- and it could result in a ton of drips and imperfections so you might just have the best luck with a brush. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Betty says
I am beginning to prepare a dining room set (table 3 extensions, 6 chairs and credenza). The wood is pecan and chairs have cane backs. I have a few questions:
1. Is there a good way to sand in corners, crevices? The chairs and table have a cut in the legs that is very narrow. A q-tip made of sandpaper would fit.
2. What should I do about the cane back. The front appears to have varnish/shellac on it. The back does not seem as smooth.
3. When sanding do you need to get all the way down to where all you see is wood?
Thanks. Betty
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Betty,
1. We like to tuck something rigid into sandpaper (folding it around it) to get into crevices, like an old butter knife.
2. We would delicately sand the cane back, just enough to rough it up so primer sticks
3. Nope, just rough things up so they’re a bit less slick and smooth (the “toothiness” that you create helps primer to adhere)
Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Tiffany says
You guys have been so awesome to be so helpful. I just have one more question……can you paint satin minwax over the cleargloss minwax and get the satin look?
YoungHouseLove says
We believe you can just get it in a satin finish to save the extra step. Just check out your local home improvement center to see what they have (and ask an expert what they recommend if you’re unsure). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Lea says
I am so happy to have found your blog, it’s almost too good to be true. I do have a question, I am going to paint my kitchen table black and I already have all the paint I need, but I noticed that my latex paint and my poly are both satin finish not gloss, is that ok? Or should I go out and buy it in semi-gloss? I would rather not go spend the money if I have what I need but I do not want to do this project and not have it hold up well or look nice. Can you advise?
Thanks
Lea
YoungHouseLove says
Nope, satin is just fine- it’ll still be protected and durable it just will be a tad bit less shiny. So unless you want a higher sheen you can stick with the satin semi-gloss (and the finish of the paint doesn’t matter at all). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Lea says
Thanks, that was unbelievably fast.
Lea
Katy says
I am debating whether to paint my console table or stain it. I’ve read your tutorials for both…..would painting be easier for an extreme beginner? Also, do you have a black paint you recommend for furniture?
thanks!
Katy
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, painting’s definitely easier. And as for a black paint, we love Benjamin Moore’s Onyx. Good luck!
xo,
s
Erin says
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I started painting a little drawer set yesterday. I sanded with 100 grit paper, primed with oil based primer, applied the first coat of latex paint with a higher end brush and waited overnight. Well, this morning the latex is tacky and has a ton of brush strokes! I live in sunny SoCal, so I don’t think humidity is the culprit. What should my next step be? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Erin,
We would bet that if you let it cure up another 24-48 hours you’ll have a tack-free surface. Then once it’s totally dry you can sand things down with a high grit paper (like 250 grit, just to remove those brush strokes, not to strip that first coat of paint) and apply the next coat of paint much thinner (brush strokes are impossible if there’s not too much paint for the bristles of the brush to “sink into”). The key is to apply it as thin as an eggshell of a piece of paper. That’s the way to get faster curing time and a more seamless finish. It might take three very thin and even applications of the paint, but it’ll look great in the end. And remember not to go over the same area again with the brush once it has started to dry (even five minutes later) since that creates brush strokes and drag marks. So just do one or two passes and move along right away to another spot on the piece (instead of going back over things at the end which is a definite no-no). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Kim Little says
Wanted to send this 2 your email..I will try!!!
Melissa says
Hello,
Love the website! Great work. Where did you buy/find the round wood table top for the base?
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
At Lowe’s in the wood aisle. It was precut and everything. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Kristy says
Hi,
Great page! I haven’t had a chance to explore the whole site, but i’m sure it’s great too and plan to as I’m gonna be doing more projects & this has been helpful to a very new DIY-er.
I’m going to be painting my coffee table and side table as they are old and need a sprucing up! I went into Home Depot and asked about the 1) Primer 2) Paint 3) Poly and the guy looked at me like I was a martian. He said “No, the paint will have the primer together, we can do that now, so you don’t need to prime, and since it’s gonna be semigloss you don’t need to cover that”….I explained that it was gonna be a coffee table and I’d like to have some extra covering and he just said “no, you don’t need it.” SO…I felt like I just had no clue at all what to do…
I got the Latex paint/primer combo paint in Semi-Gloss…should I go out (to a different place!) and still get an oil-based primer anyway….and I’m guessing from the posts that it WOULD be a good idea to get that poly to finish it off (since I do put food/drinks on the table!).
Thanks for any advice!!!!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Kristy,
When it comes to DIY you’ll definitely get a lot of opinions, but the exact tutorial that we posted above has been no fail for us (and many other readers) so naturally it’s what we endorse. Especially since our experiences with water-based primers have left much to be desired, which are what is used in those all-in-one paint formulas. Just be sure to grab oil-based primer and apply one thin coat, let it dry thoroughly, then apply two or three very very thin and even coats of latex paint (letting them dry between each coat) and then apply very very thin coats of the exact poly that we recommended and you should be golden. It’s a finish that will last for decades and have uncompromised durability. Oh and try not to go over places again and again with the brush (which leads to brush strokes)- just brush things on thinly and move to a new spot on the piece. Good luck!
xo,
s
Virginia says
Wow!! Just the information I need. I just bought a small wooden drop leaf table today. Think its oak, but what do I know. Anyway its varnished and I want to paint it white. When done it will look very much like the table you have done, except its drop leaf. Thanks so much for providing this information. I will feel way more confident tackling this project now. By the way, paid $32.50 for the table. Great bargain.
YoungHouseLove says
That’s a steal! Good luck with everything!
xo,
s
Eve Norman says
I paint alot of old furniture pieces but I have trouble getting a smooth finish. I do all the steps…sanding,primer, paint and then decorative stuff. I use poly (thin coats) but it still looks splotchy. Help???
YoungHouseLove says
Do you use a high quality 2″ angled brush to apply it? We really have learned that the brush makes the difference- and you must wait for each coat to dry all the way before moving onto the next (otherwise it can get marred and bumpy looking). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
teresa says
hi
does the oil base primer stop the bleeding of a dark wood like mahogany or maybe cherry..??? after the primer it still bleeds through pink .. what should i do? thanks t
YoungHouseLove says
Yes, a stainblocking oil-based primer like Kilz should completely stop the bleeding (be sure to apply it evenly and thoroughly and not to pick up the water-based stuff by mistake- oh and look for the word “stainblocking” on the can, not just primer). If you still see some bleeding wait for that coat to thoroughly dry and apply another coat. It should be all sealed then. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Michelle says
First, I must say that table looks FANTASTIC! You’re so brave to go with white for so many things. It certainly looks great, but my fear is; it won’t continue to with two kids in the house. I will be refinishing an ENTIRE dining room set. Full lighted china hutch and buffet, half size lighted china hutch, table with two leaves and 6 chairs, and a bookshelf. Obviously I’m taking on a huge task. We are toying with painting instead of staining and I wasn’t aware you could put polyurethane on top of paint. My parents (not so design savvy) swear you can’t. Is it a specific TYPE of polyurethane that should be used over paint?
Thanks for your help!!!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Michelle,
Yup the poly makes everything extremely durable and wipeable (aka: kidproof) so we’d say go for it. As for the specific type of poly we recommend, if you read our step by step tutorial above we actually mention the one we like best by name (we wouldn’t use anything else). And remember to apply thin and even coats (five thin coats are better than two droopy ones). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Michelle says
Thank you so much. I did read that to begin with but I guess the difference in polyurethane and polycrylic didn’t hit me when I read it. Thanks so much.
BTW, you have done a wonderful job on your home. I’ve become obsessed with your website and look at it daily.
Best of luck on future projects!
Heather says
I love your blog it is amazing I have gotten so many great ideas!!! Would love to know if you think this would work on painting a crib, I want to take a natural stained crib and paint it black, any words of advice on the process or paint? Keep up the great work I love checking in :)
YoungHouseLove says
Just follow this tutorial to the letter and we would suggest picking up a 1″ angled brush to get into those smaller slats that a 2″ one might not work for (use the 2″ one for the majority of the project but have the 1″ one on hand as well). Oh and we would suggest using no-VOC semi-gloss paint and not using any poly at all (since that stuff is toxic). It’ll still be wipeable and if the baby gnaws on the crib (as many do) it’ll be a lot safer than if they’re swallowing chunks of poly. However if you really want a more protective and glossy coating over the paint you can go with something like Safecoat (no-toxic No-VOC poly which can be ordered online- we used it on our nursery dresser and really recommend it). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
fatuma says
i love this i did it by step by step the way you guys told me to thanks u guys are cool wish you guys good luck on doing that
YoungHouseLove says
So glad our step by step tutorial worked for you Fatuma! Happy home improving…
xo,
s
Gabie says
Would you mind sharing how you clean your oil-based primer paintbrush? I follow your advice and used oil-based primer for projects like painting furniture, but am stumped with how to go about cleaning the paintbrush… And is it safe to wash it down the drain?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
YoungHouseLove says
We use mineral spirits. Just wet a rag or cloth with them and rub the brush until it feels nice and clean. Then just rinse it and lay it flat to dry. Good luck!
xo,
s
Heather says
thank you so much can’t wait to get started!
Erin says
OK, I’ve read this post a million times and I’m ready to go for it on the kitchen table, but I need some help on the opinion for what color white I should paint it. I’m in the process of repainting all the trim, the wood-planked ceiling (and, in the future the cabinets, which are already an off-white but in need of a paint job) a warm off-white (BM’s Mascarpone). The recently installed banquette is also painted the same color. So do I keep it simple and paint the table the same color or should I avoid being so matchy-matchy and paint it some other shade of white?
YoungHouseLove says
We would go with the same color so you’re sure it doesn’t clash or look dirty next to the other white tone. Then just use accessories (a table runner, a bowl or fruit, etc) to keep things from feeling too matchy matchy. Good luck!
xo,
s
Erin says
Thanks so much Sherry! You’re the best!
kirsten says
This was super helpful! Thank you! The Minwax can says to sand with 220 paper in between coats, do you do this or just go ahead and put a second coat on?
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, we just went ahead with the second coat. We do super thin and even coats (that we let fully dry) so we don’t need to sand anything between coats (since we don’t have drip marks or uneven areas to correct). Slow and steady wins the race!
xo,
s
mary says
I am experiencing scuff marks and a couple of chips on my newly painted tables legs. I refinished and painted the table base and chair legs as you stated in your tutorial; sanded the old finish, oil base primer applied, then two thin coats of satin black. The table top and chair seats are refinished in a walnut. I did not apply any top primer on the painted wood, only the steps above. Do you have any idea why this would happen or how to correct it?
Thanks!
Mary
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Mary,
Poly definitely adds a nice protective coating and semi-gloss paint is also a bit more protective than a satin finish since it has more flex and is a bit more wipeable. We would lightly sand the dents and dings, apply a thin thin coat of oil-based primer in that area, let it dry fully, and follow that with the black latex paint until it looks seamless again. Remember to keep those coats thin and feather them out for the least obvious “touch up” result. Then two or three thin coats of the water based poly that we recommended in our tutorial above over the entire painted piece should give it more long-lasting protection. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Vicki says
I have a livingroom table I want to try and paint, and I will use your advice above. On the bottom of the table is a weave-Basket like pattern How do I paint this?? ROller, Brush or spray?? Which would you recommend? Thanks for your input…….
YoungHouseLove says
We definitely wouldn’t roll it, and perhaps a brush would get into all those cracks and crevices with a thin amount of paint (globbing it will make the weave look mucked up and inconsistent). You might actually have the best luck with spray primer (KIlz, oil-based) and spray paint (just for the weave part). Then you could go back in the prime the rest of the piece with a brush and paint the rest of it with a brush as well. That would probably be our approach. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Antonia says
We have a big 4-pc dining room set with 6 chairs (my husband’s grandmother’s old set). Needs A LOT of work to get it to look like it belongs in our house/our century. It’s a dark green tinted veneer, with lots of old-fashioned details and black cast iron legs on the table. Do you recommend tackling this project the way you describe above? Or just cut our losses and try to sell it on Craigslist?
YoungHouseLove says
We always think it’s worth a try, but that’s really a personal preference. Veneer can be a bit tricky but here’s a tutorial about that: https://www.younghouselove.com/2010/03/nursery-progress-refinishing-a-veneer-dresser/
xo,
s
Jenn says
I want to paint our IKEA Hemnes dresser but am having a difficult time interpreting IKEA’s description. I think there’s some kind of protective layer (I think in their description it says ‘foil’) over the white acrylic paint.
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00067830
I can tell you it’s very very smooth and glossy.
We have this dresser in our baby’s room along with our crib (the same as yours) AND the matching side table to this dresser AND a white glider and OMG the white is killing me!! I need to paint SOMETHING. As the largest piece in the room, I was thinking we could give this dresser a little color love. Based on IKEA’s product description, do you think I have any hope of being able to paint it?
YoungHouseLove says
The finish of those Ikea pieces is very close to a glossy laminate which is extremely hard to paint for the long haul (it’s not at all like solid wood or even veneer which is a thin layer of wood). That being said this tutorial for painting laminate furniture might come in handy (although it probably won’t hold up for decades it could work for a few years with light to medium use): http://livingwithlindsay.com/2009/05/how-to-paint-laminate-furniture.html
Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Jenn says
Thanks! Based on what you’ve told me and a bit of research I’ve done on an Ikea fan site, I have accepted the reality that they are definitely tricky to paint. Perhaps even too tricky to risk botching something that is, truthfully, incredibly functional given the teeny tiny closet in the room. I may ditch the painting and try switching it with another dresser, as long as I can find a home for this one in the house. Or maybe once the walls have a more appealing color and there are some better-coordinated fabrics, the white won’t bother me so much (we’re in a beige-on-ugly-beige rental, about to close on new house.) Thanks much!!
YoungHouseLove says
One way to spice up those furnishings without painting them would be to switch out the hardware for something fun (anthropologie.com and Hobby Lobby sells lots of fun drawer pulls) and you could even line the drawers with punchy patterned paper for some personality, like we did in our nursery: https://www.younghouselove.com/2010/03/nursery-progress-lining-our-dresser-drawers/
Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Tiffany says
It’s me again. Sorry I pop up every few weeks. So I have been painting my furniture and it does not matter what I do I get lines. I know you say to do thin even coats. But I just can’t get it. I am having issues with the primer. Its like if I go thin, their is so little primer it dries quick so I get lines. I go a little thicker and still get lines. Bottem line I do not have a painters hand. What I am really getting at is……….I would love it if you did a video on applying primer and paint so I can really see how thin, brush strokes, etc. Now I realize this is a weird request, but if anyone ever brings it up or asks and you feel you have the time, I would love to see it.
YoungHouseLove says
Primer will always get lines and look uneven like that! It will never go on smooth because it’s the nature of primer (which is meant to create a tacky foundation of slight texture for the paint to grab). Fear not and trust that one thin coat of primer (while completely uneven and messy looking) is all it takes (and will not affect the smoothness of your paint job as long as it’s applied everywhere, even if uneven). Then just let that dry thoroughly and apply paper thin and even coats of paint (which is made to go on a lot more smoothly and which you apply in many thin and even coats- so even if the first coat doesn’t look smooth, by the time you get to the third paper thin coat, or even the fourth, it’ll look amazing). Good luck!
xo,
s
Tiffany says
Oh, thank you so much. I am very glad to hear that. I’ll give it another go. I really want to get this. I would love to make my house look great without breaking the bank, so you guys have been really helpful. Hopefully with a bit more practice I will eventually get this. Thank You Much!!!!!
Ashley Swain says
What type of paintbrush and roller do you use or recommend? I know you said no to foam rollers, but do you have a brand that you could recommend. I’m looking to paint several pieces of bedroom furniture and would also like to add Valspur Translucent Iridescent Glaze to give it a pearl like finish. (Working on a big girl princess room for my 2 year old) Any info you can provide would be helpful. What are your thoughts on using a sprayer to do the latex paint portion of my project?
Thanks.
YoungHouseLove says
We actually took a small foam roller for a spin in a recent furniture refinishing project and had a lot of luck with it. Just use it slowly so you’re not zipping around creating bubbles. Read more about that process here: https://www.younghouselove.com/2010/03/nursery-progress-refinishing-a-veneer-dresser/
Good luck!
xo,
s
Erin says
Hi guys, it’s me your refinishing stalker! I’m really sorry to keep bugging you about this stupid project but I really don’t want to screw up my kitchen table. I have questions on the clear coat (which I feel like I need to use at least on the table top because our kitchen table gets abused). I’ve been doing tests on scrap pieces of the table looking for the gloss I like best as well as the least yellowing of the water-based polyurethanes (I’ve tried four now … does anyone need any clear coat? I’ve got some spares!)
I’d love to use the Minwax Polycrylic. In my tests it was the least yellowing of all of them and I liked the satin finish (which is less glossy than the Benwood Stays Clear Low Lustre, go figure). I don’t want a shiny table! However in one of my tests it created a crackled finish, particularly on the edges. I suspected that perhaps the paint wasn’t completely dry before I applied the Minwax so I tried again and a sample I KNEW was very dry. This time there were very, very small crackles, but not the nice smooth finish I would like to see. I sanded it lightly with 220-grit paper and applied another coat and that seems to have gone on smoothly.
I was planning on doing two coats of clear coat anyway, so if my sample is representative of what Minwax will do after two coats, I’m comfortable going with it, but I’m wondering if you’ve ever experienced this and what your thoughts on it might be.
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
We had no crackles at all, but if you have small ones and want to do a light sanding (once it’s totally dry of course) that should clear it up- just like it did in your testing. We definitely can only recommend that exact type of poly as everything else we’ve used has been a lot more of a headache (yellowing, cracking, peeling, drips, uneven sheen) and we love the results of that specific brand. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Anna says
Hi guys,
im Anna from Tunisia, north Africa :)
your site is just wonderful and i find your work and projects amazing!
i want to redecorate my bathroom and i don’t know where to begin from! i hate everything about it from it’s color to it’s floor and everything in between! unfortunatly im on a very low budget and i was wondering if you could help me with some decorating ideas.how to change the color for example, and what kind of paint shall i use? can i use the same paint for the floor and the wallas??? they are both ceramic, the floor and walls i mean with a grey and white color. i just hate it!!!
can you please help?!!
thanks.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Anna,
We actually don’t recommend painting ceramic tile (on either the floor or wall) since ti can bubble and flake off. You probably can get the most impact by getting a pretty floor mat to cover as much tile as possible and hanging a pretty shower curtain to take away from the ugly wall tile. Adding accessories since you can’t paint the ceramic tile should temper them and make them less noticeable. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Anna says
ok then, i’ll go for the pretty floor mat and shower curtain.
any suggestions about the colors or the accessories?
YoungHouseLove says
The good news is that lots of things will work- just pick any colors you like. Greens can look really pretty in there, or even a nice light blue – you can even mix sage green and sky blue accessories if you’d like. You’re lucky that your tile is pretty neutral, so anything from hot pink to tones of yellow will look great. Good luck!
xo,
s
Anna says
Thank you :)
Heather says
Okay we started to paint a desk it is solid wood and is currently pained cream, non glossy finished. we want to paint it white, only problem we are having is we keep getting brush strokes, any recommendations on the type of brush???
YoungHouseLove says
You’re probably applying the paint too thick or going back over an area before it’s dry. Just scroll up for lots of advice on avoiding brush strokes. We also recommend a high quality 2″ angled brush (Purdy at Home Depot is a good choice). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Meredith says
Hi! I want to paint a wood kitchen table top, but it appears to have a wax finish. (It rubs off with my fingers, especially after applying any water or cleaning product?) What suggestions do you have for removing it before painting?
THANKS!
YoungHouseLove says
We would recommend taking down a cabinet door and bringing it to a paint pro in your area (either at a home improvement store or a specialty paint store like Benjamin Moore) to get their opinions on the best approach. Sanding things down and then using oil-based primer would be our best guess but it never hurts to ask around to be sure. Good luck!
xo,
s
Lauri Hatlelid says
I love the look of this table. I recently tried the same techniques on kitchen cabinet doors and framing, but ran into a bit of a problem with the framing. The cabs are 28 year old with a glossy stained finish. I used Zinsser primer/bond coat for glossy surfaces. So far so good. After my third coat of white Rustoleum Painter’s Touch semi-gloss, I removed the tape. A few hours later I noticed that some areas where the tape had slightly lifted the paint peeled off down to the primer, which still looked good. There is no other obvious bubbling or peeling. I know it can take a few days or even weeks to cure and to properly bond with the primer; but I have never experienced this before. Is this common? I live in Louisiana and it has been a bit humid. Thank you for any feedback.
BTW – I used semi-gloss primer and spraypaint on the cab doors with absolutely wonderful results.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Lauri,
Here’s a post where we breakdown our cabinet painting tips and tricks that might be of help (we have a ton of comments on it with even more info): https://www.younghouselove.com/2008/11/how-to-paint-your-kitchen-cabinets/
As for your tape peeling up the paint in some spots, that’s actually pretty common especially if you let the paint cure (we always tear down tape as soon as we apply our last coat so it doesn’t have time to dry which seems to keep the edge cleaner for the most part). Of course the best approach is to avoid tape altogether and use an angled brush to cut in (here’s one that is a miracle product for us and many of our readers). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Jana says
So, I got too excited about a project and forged ahead without thoroughly researching the proper method. I am painting wooden apple crates to put together for a shelf; they’re rustic, rough, old, slightly beat up, stained but with lots of character. I did two coats of spraypaint but they look terrible: the stains stand-out more now and the blue color looks darker in some places than others – they’re not fit to be used in the house. I really should have sanded and then primed them first, right? What would you suggest I do now that they have 2 coats of paint already? Start from the beginning again with sanding, priming and then painting? (If you’ve already answered a question similar to this…please just answer with a link.:)
YoungHouseLove says
We would use oil-based primer right over the spray paint (two coats, not latex-based!) and sand a bit beforehand if you want to smooth things out first. Then just follow this tutorial to the letter when it comes to applying the paint. Good luck!
xo,
s
Sami says
Hi, I’m going to paint a wood desk tomorrow and I wondering something.
I already have the Behr paint + primer from other projects, can I skip step 2 and go straight to step 3? Or do you still recommend using the oil-based primer?
Thanks so much.
YoungHouseLove says
Good question! The Behr stuff can’t hurt and should probably work out for ya, but we have found that NOTHING beats oil-based primer (which isn’t included in the Behr stuff). So there’s a short cut that probably would be ok, or you could take the thorough route and opt for the most durable and long-lasting approach possible. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Wendy says
Forgive me if this has already been asked, but do you know of low/no VOC products for primers and top coats?
I’d like to paint our bed which is unfinished oak with a little tung oil. My husband made the bed before we met, but I’ve never liked the oak. I was thinking about sanding, then oil-based primer, latex, and then the polycrylic, but I’m worried about VOCs. We’ll be sleeping on this every night and I just don’t want it to be toxic.
Any advice? Thank you!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Wendy,
Safecoat makes a great non-toxic topcoat that can be used in the place of stinky poly (it can be ordered on http://www.greendepot.com). As for primer, we sadly haven’t found anything nearly as effective as the oil-based stuff so we have always taken things outside and primed them and then let them cure for a while to get rid of the fumes. It’s worth it for a long lasting quality result!
xo,
s
Denise says
After finding your blog on Google, I have become addicted to it and refer to your tips for just about everything DIY.
We are going to repaint our kitchen. The cabinets will be a bright white and the walls will be Glidden’s Celery Sticks. Our kitchen table, while very sturdy, is pine with a poly finish (it is showing its years as a family table). We want to repaint it… but should it be the white of the cabinets or the green of the walls?
Thank you so much!
Denise
YoungHouseLove says
We would definitely go with classic white like the cabinets so it pops against the walls instead of blending in and making the room feel too overwhelmingly green. It’ll be beautiful! Good luck!
xo,
s