Whether you’re interested in painting a chair, a table, or any other wooden piece of furniture, the steps are pretty much the same.
Take this table that we built and subsequently painted along with the accompanying white chairs (which used to be a golden blond wood tone).
Sprucing things up with a fresh coat of white paint took them from thrift store (where we got the table base) to Pottery Barn (which sells a similar version of it for 500 beans) in just a few hours.
But enough jibber-jabber. On with the how-to deets:
Step 1- Evaluate the surface of the piece that you’d like to paint. If it’s a sleek glossy surface (like varnished or sealed wood) you’ll want to gently sand the entire piece with 100 grit sandpaper). If it’s more of a dry chalky texture (like unfinished wood or flat paint) you can forgo the sandpaper and skip right to step two.
Step 2- Break out the oil-based primer to ensure that the paint sticks and no stains come through and ruin your finish (we’ve also used Zinsser Smart Prime with great success, which is a low-VOC stain-blocking primer that’s not oil-based – so it’s less stinky). Give the entire piece a good once over with a small foam roller or a paint brush. This coat of primer doesn’t have to be perfectly even in tone (it’ll probably look thinner in some areas since that’s how primer rolls) but as long as the entire piece is well covered – and it’s not too gloppy and thick – it’s ready for step three once it dries.
Step 3- Use a fresh small foam roller or paint brush to apply two thin and even coats of latex paint (a semi-gloss finish is usually best since it’s nice a wipe-able and durable choice). Many people mistakenly think that latex paint isn’t supposed to be applied over oil-based primer, but the real painting no-no is applying latex paint over oil-based paint, which is a guaranteed bubble-fest and should be avoided at all costs. And a word about small foam rollers vs. brushes: according to experts, all rollers – especially if used too quickly- may rile up the paint and lead to bubbles while paint brushes are the most bubble free application method known to man (although you might have brush stroke issues if the paint isn’t applied thinly enough or given ample drying time between coats).
We painted the table above with a paint brush, not a roller. But we have also used small foam rollers with great success, so those are actually our recommended choice for beginners since they cut down on brush strokes or drippy finishes and seem to be the most error proof. No matter what you use, be sure to wait until the first coat of paint is thoroughly dry before applying a second coat (each coat should be applied super lightly and evenly – aim for the thickness of an eggshell or a piece of paper). This thin application is the key to avoiding brush strokes or roller marks for a smooth, gorgeous finish. Repeat after me: three or even four super thin coats are far better than one or two thick and drippy ones!
Step 4- This step is optional, so think of it as extra credit. Brushing on two thin and even coats of water-based poly for wipe-able protection that really goes the extra mile (and provides a glossy oh-so-luxe sheen) can’t hurt if you pick the right stuff. The only two brands that we’ve ever used with unmatched success are these two, so they’re our strong recommendation (other types can yellow or crack over time):
- Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish in “Clear Gloss” (found at any home improvement center)
- Safecoat Acrylacq (which is a low-VOC, non-toxic alternative sold at eco boutiques or online at places like greendepot.com)
We went the extra mile and applied poly to our white table above for a bit of added protection, and we even thinly polyed the chairs since they need to be just as easy to wipe down due to their proximity to food whenever we dine in the sunroom. Thin is definitely the operative word, and again you’ll want to be sure to let the first coat thoroughly dry before going in for the second. Any time you go over semi-wet paint or poly to smooth things out you’ll get terrible drag marks, so work from one side to the other and never go back over things until they’re completely dry.
Step 5- Wait at least a full 72 hours to place objects on your newly painted piece to avoid dents or divots in your finish. If you really want to be on the safe side, we’d recommend waiting five full days. Sometimes factors like humidity and primer/paint/poly thickness can keep things from fully curing up, and you don’t want to get indents from using your newly painted piece too quickly. Waiting this long might take some willpower because you’re dying to sit on/eat on/enjoy your brand new piece, but it’s worth the wait. Promise.
Easy, right? Ok, those were a lot of words, so it might sound complicated. But just take things one step at a time. And remember to breathe. You can totally do it. There’s really no reason to live with wood furniture that’s not exactly the tone or the shade that you’d like. So from painting an old side table a handsome glossy black to giving a scratched up wooden chair a cheerful red tone, it’s definitely a project that you can confidently tackle in an afternoon. Go forth and paint something!
*Oh and it bears noting that if your furniture item is anything other than solid wood or veneered wood (like laminate, melamine, etc) you should visit your local hardware store and ask the paint pro there what they recommend for that surface. There are some great oil-based primers and enamel paints out there (which are changing all the time) so it might be possible to get a great result. The key is really roughing up the surface so it’s less glossy and then priming and painting with the best stuff they have (usually oil or enamel based).Good luck!
Psst- In the market for a quick cabinet painting tutorial? Look no further.
Psssst- Wondering how to paint a brick fireplace? Wonder no more.
Pssssssst- Itching to paint wood paneling? Try this.
Robert says
As I’m ready to tackle my first endeavor in furniture painting, I’m hoping to achieve an ultra-glossy finish on my dining room table and chairs. Do you think there are any benefits to using hi-gloss vs. semi-gloss paint? I plan to follow your steps for the water-based poly coating, too. The dining set is from the 50s, and I’m certain it will look fantastic by following your methods. Thanks for the helpful advice!
Ashley says
Hi! Love the blog!
Have a couple of questions. The first involves the primer. Is there a reason you suggest oil-based primer instead of water based? I used water based KILZ on my furniture just because we had it around the house and didn’t want to buy anymore stuff.
Also, I know that you don’t suggest using rollers on furniture – is this because rollers put a lot of paint on the furniture as compared to a brush. Is the 2″ angled brush from Sherman Williams the brush you use for the entire piece of furniture or do use other types of brushes? I am basically just trying to figure out what kind of brushes will be best to use with the paint. Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Ashley,
We hate fumes and messy oil-based primer as much as the next guy but we’ve personally experienced sub-par results (bleed through, staining, less durable paint adhesion) with water-based/latex primer. The oil-based stuff is actually the industry standard so we stick with that recommendation and actually use it in our house every single time. Of course in some instances the water-based stuff can do the trick, but we just don’t like taking that gamble so we try to do things the most thorough way right off the bat instead of taking a short cut and hoping for the best.
As for rollers, we’ve heard from countless paint pros that they “rile up the paint and cause bubbles and stippling” so we again defer to the industry standard which is a 2″ angled brush (we like Purdy brushes from Home Depot for furniture painting since they don’t need a short handle like the SW one we use for trim). We have tried small foam rollers since writing this post (a few readers recommended them and we love to give everything a try) and as long as you go slowly and apply thin coats of paint they actually can work out well- although it never looks as super smooth as the brush application. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
ashley says
thank you so much for the response back! Real quick follow up question- if i already did the water based on the furniture do you think i should sand it down (with what grit?) and re-prime it with oil based primer? I want to make sure I get this right the first time! We are painting an antique cream and the furniture is dark wood (if that makes a difference). Thanks again!!
YoungHouseLove says
It’s really your call! You could be fine but it would definitely still be a shortcut to sand now and switch primers while you can (rather than to paint a few coats and not be happy with the end product after all that). We would sand and reprime just to be safe, but it’s really up to you!
xo,
s
YoungHouseLove says
Oh and 100 grit should be good (you can start with 60 and go to 100-150 if you’d like). Good luck!
xo,
s
Robert says
Hi! Hoping for an answer to this question: Is there any benefit to using hi-gloss latex paint rather than semi-gloss for the top coat? I know that hi-gloss is notorious for showing defects, but I wondered if that would apply to a thorough and carefully prepped wood surface. Thanks for the help in advance!
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, if you can apply hi-gloss paint smoothly, the glossy and durable finish can’t be beat. But as you mention, it is notoriously difficult to master since the high sheen doesn’t hide nearly as many imperfections. It’s all about how confident you are in your application skills. Good luck!
xo,
s
Keren says
YHL,
I know you’ve done tutorials on both painting furniture with a brush and with spray paint. I plan on painting alot of wood furniture, both pieces we already have and pieces we are going to build from Ana’s plans at Knock Off Wood. When I made my first attempt at painting furniture with a brush I got lots of brush strokes and vowed to never do it again, but after reading the posts above I’m thinking I painted it too thick. If you had to pick the method that produces the best long lasting results, which would you pick (brush or spray)?
YoungHouseLove says
We would never ever pick spray paint as the best long lasting result unless you’re redoing exterior metal garden chairs or something. It’s drippy and uneven and nearly impossible to master unless you’re a furniture painting pro when it comes to interior wood pieces. Our preference would be between a brush (which, as you’ve deduced needs to be used to apply super thin and even coats of paint) or a small foam roller (which should also be used only to apply thin and even coats of paint very slowly to avoid bubbling). The brush can give you the more flawless finish but is a bit harder to master (although nowhere near as difficult as spray paint). So definitely opt for the foam roller (and go slow and steady with thin and even coats) if you’re looking for something that’s relatively error proof. Good luck!
xo,
s
Dasha says
Hi guys!
I’m hoping to use your tutorial to repaint our aquarium stand and hood. The stand is made of pine and is finished in a medium tone. I’m guessing it is stained but don’t actually know. The top we made ourselves – it is pine, stained and sealed with polyurethane. Visually, they match.
The bottom looks like this one (I think its the same manufacturer) – http://www.carolina.com/images/en_US//local/products/detail/671505_at.jpg
I would like to make it a dark, dark brown, like the West Elm angled leg coffee table you featured in today’s mood board. The coffee table, and other similar pieces of furniture have some grain showing – I’m afraid that if I just paint following your tutorial, the color will be flat and it won’t look good. This isn’t much of a problem for black or white pieces, but neither color would work very well in the space. Sanding it down to the wood and re-staining is not an option because we can’t take the aquarium off the stand, and therefore can’t do too much sanding (a light sanding should be ok though).
Do you have any advice? And any paint color recommendations?
YoungHouseLove says
Just bring home a bunch of brown swatches of paint and hold them up to see which ones you like. The deeper the chocolate color the more they’ll look like wood (since medium wood traditionally shows more grain and some darker wood pieces don’t have much of a grain at all). Good luck!
xo,
s
Priscilla says
I have been painting furnature for a couple of years and feel I am gaining experience. However, I am trying to achieve the “faded paint” look of painted antiques. I have used both oil- based and latex paints, but can not achieve the look I want. Should I dilute my paint? Spray the paint on? Use milk paint? Any ideas? thanks
YoungHouseLove says
One of the best ways to achieve that look is to paint the piece all one color (ex: white) and then follow that with a few coats of another color (ex: a weathered gray-blue) and then you let everything dry and use sandpaper to “distress” the corners and some of the planes of the piece, which will expose the first color (ex: white) so it shows through and feels really aged- as if it has been around the block a few times. You can also use things like a plastic bag full of nails to beat the piece a bit for more wear and tear that looks vintage and charmingly antiqued. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Sylvia Patino says
Hello, I had paint some old furniture before without any
intruction, and came out beautiful, I am very creative and really enyoy this type of proyect.
Do you sale videos to learn how to do it rigth?
Thank you so much for the attention to this matter.
Sincerely,
Sylvia
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Sylvia,
No, we don’t sell any videos (but we do have a bunch that we share for free under our blog header if you click the tab that says “Videos”). None of them have a step by step furniture painting tutorial in them though. This post is the most detailed that we get on that subject- and with over 550 comments and a full how-to written above, hopefully you’ll be able to follow along and end up with a result that you’ll love. Good luck!
xo,
s
Jen says
Hi YHL,
First of all, I LOVE your blog!
We have a wood dining room table with ceramic tiles on top. The chair backs, legs and tile on top are a hunter green color which we would like to paint over with black paint. My question is: is it hard to paint over ceramic tiles? Do you have any suggestions on how to do this successfully? It will be my first time painting furniture and I want to make sure I know what I’m doing before I get started. I don’t plan on touching the wood itself at all……just the parts that are painted the hunter green color. BTW, your tutorial above is very helpful! I’m mainly really concerned about painting the tiles and wonder if that will be a mistake or something that can be done.
Thanks so much!
Jen
YoungHouseLove says
We never recommend painting tile in a bathroom because the humidity and the daily use will almost always cause peeling and flaking over time- which looks really bad! But painting the ceramic tiles on a dining room table don’t have the same wetness issues that a bathroom has so we’d suggest visiting your local home improvement center and asking if they have any “tile reglazing” kits that would work for your project (just describe it and hopefully they’ll have something to recommend). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Shari says
I was wondering if anyone has advice on trying to paint over black lacquer. We have a wonderful piano that was given to us years ago and I love to hear my kids playing it but have always cringed at its appearance. I’m not sure how realistic it is to think I could paint it without ruining something. Lots of hinges and angles to work around.
Shari
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Shari,
That might be a job that’s best left up to the experts (painting over lacquer could very well result in a cracked and peeling finish) but you could ask the paint pros at your local home improvement center if they have any products you could use that would make it doable. Good luck!
xo,
s
Jennifer says
Hi YHL –
FIrst – I LOVE YOUR SITE! My husband and I are artists. I’m an Art Director about to go out on my own freelancing. So we love y’all.
Apologies in advance if you’ve already answered this one. I have 2 IKEA tables – made of particleboard birch veneer – the stuff almost everything they make is constructed of. Can I paint this? I want to paint one dark brown and another possibly turquoise (a desk and a dinner table). We figure why buy something new when we can just paint it.
Any ideas?
Thanks so much and congrats on your baby to be! We just became parents last year and it’s AMAZING!
PS – my website is totally about to be made over but I gave y’all my URL just in case you were curious.
Jenn
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Jenn,
Painting Ikea particleboard/laminate is never nearly as durable and long-lasting as wood is, but here’s the best tutorial we’ve seen for the job. We haven’t tackled it ourselves (since it’s easily scraped and damaged) but if you’re just looking to tide yourself over with pieces that work better with your decor before investing in something more long term it could be the solution!
xo,
s
Jenn says
Thanks so much!
Rachael says
I love your “new” table! I have always stayed away from painting things white, but now I see it can be done and look great. Question…have you ever done anything in cream/ivory a la shabby chic? I am redoing my bedroom and I want to repaint my previously painted chocolate furniture. I am an ace with black or red, but going light scares me! Any tips?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Rachael,
Our tip would be to go for it! It’s the same process to paint something ivory or cream (and white is a breeze!) so you can totally do it- just be sure to pick up the poly that we reference by name so nothing yellows or gets discolored. That’s really the only difference between going red or black! Good luck with everything.
xo,
s
amy says
sherry – I am having a minor breakdown. I read your blog constantly and I must admit: you make painting projects seems so easy! My boyfriend and I hate painting with a passion and get so frustrated by it. However, I recently decided to take on a table. This table has several coats of who knows what kind of paint in it, but it was peeling off badly on two ends. So, I thought, time to sand! Sanding barely touched the surface. I have a palm sander, small but seemingly effective. However, no matter what grit sand paper I used, the paint gummied up with the heat! And I bought cheap sandpaper, which got destroyed instantly… so after lots of frustrating, I decided to try stripping. Another headache, another few hours of work. There was a lot of paint and it did not come easy. Finally, I felt it was ready to paint. Paint, however, is much more expensive in Canada. The cheapest I could find was latex semi gloss, a gallon for $15. So, I put primer on, and then 2-3 layers of paint until I could no longer see the wood. I put layers on every 4 hours as the paint indicated. I waited about 18 hours, then tried a poly per your suggestion. I could not find the Minwax you used, so I bought this: https://www.hardwareworld.com/Gloss-Interior-Water-Wood-Finish-Polyurethane-1-Gallon-pKZR3D7.aspx. WELL, this poly turned yellow with some kind of reaction with the latex. I then tried to sand it off, 24 hours later, and once again the paint and got gummy and was not coming off “smoothly” but was gutting chunks, and the poly did not appear to be coming off at all. I am absolutely fed up and frustrated with this whole process. I called the poly company and they think it was the latex and not their product. another friend said latex dries very quickly and should not have had a reaction.
AHHHH! Long story short, I am lost, I want to break the table to pieces. I feel like I just keep throwing away money. You make it look so easy, what am I doing wrong?
Thanks, for listening and for any advice…
Amy
YoungHouseLove says
So sorry you’re having so much trouble! It sounds like your best bet is to sand/strip everything down and prime and paint again – then skip the poly! Since you’re using semi-gloss paint, it’s pretty wipeable and durable without any poly, so just give that latex paint waaaay more time to dry than it says on the container (we’re talking 7-10 days without putting anything on the table) and it should be durable and perfect looking. Good luck!
xo,
s
Mary says
On 2/10/09 you recommended not using a foam roller to paint wood furniture. On 4/28/10 you recommended a foam roller. I am going to be painting several unfinished pine shelves. Which type of roller should I use.
Thanks so much, I have just started reading your blog and really like it.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Mary,
When it came to rollers, we heard from countless paint pros that they “rile up the paint and cause bubbles and stippling” so for a while we deferred to the industry standard which is a 2″ angled brush (we like Purdy brushes from Home Depot for furniture painting since they don’t need a short handle like the SW one we use for trim). But we have since tried small foam rollers (a few readers recommended them and we love to give everything a try) and as long as you go slowly and apply thin coats of paint they actually can work out well- although it never looks as super smooth as the brush application. So if you want something super seamless you can’t beat a brush (just like the pros recommend) but a roller isn’t bad either. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Taylor Reid says
When selecting baby furnitures, i always choose the brand with top of the line quality eventhough it costs more.“:
Mary says
Thanks for your speedy response. I don’t think I was clear about my last question. Do you think foam rollers are okay to paint pine shelving or should I spring for lambswool. I have about a 1/2 mile (not really) of shelving to paint, so a brush really isn’t an option except for the edges.
Thanks so much!
YoungHouseLove says
Either one will work but lambswool is obviously the higher quality roller so we would recommend that over the foam. Just be sure to grab one that’s made for smooth surfaces. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Liz says
Great site!
I want to paint a new Pottery Barn desk/credenza because the “white” the two pieces came in are really two different shades of pale green (ick!) and I can’t send it back. Any tips painting over new paint like this?
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, just follow this tutorial to the letter. You’ll want to rough things up with sandpaper first and then use the oil-based primer, paint, and poly that we describe above (which is optional). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Barbara J. says
I saw the comment above…first time on this site…trying to paint a brand new pottery barn flat screen tv armoire. I want it to be black with sort of a distressed/rubbed finish with a lighter color (maybe a creamy white color) coming through the black in areas. I noticed your note above said see tutorial…where do I find the tutorial? If the pieces is new do I still need to sand it? Do I use a black paint in matte finish or gloss? I am totally inept in this area…first project!
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Barbara J,
This post is the tutorial! As for whether you have to sand it, if it’s glossy or shiny (regardless of being new) you do, and if it’s matte and flat feeling, then you don’t. And as for the paint, we would recommend a flat finish for the one you’ll be layering under and a semi-gloss or a gloss for the one you’ll use on top. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Robyn Ragen says
Love your site, have been doing a little furniture restoring lately haven’t done a bad job, but my daughter has given me the same chairs you restored and am a bit tentative yours look great did you use a brush or roller.
robyn
YoungHouseLove says
We used a brush. Thin and even coats is key. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Luis B says
Your site is awesome!
My girlfriend and I are considering painting some furniture we have white, however she wants the dining room table to have a white lacquer finish (I honestly don’t know if it’s technically a “finish” but I’ll call it that nonetheless).
I however suggested polyurethane as lacquer has to be sprayed on right?
Also, apart from the differences in gloss, are there any benefits to lacquer vs. polyurethane?
Thanks!
– Luis
YoungHouseLove says
A true lacquer finish is best left up to the pros (even John and I wouldn’t attempt it since every single imperfection would show and it must be applied with a professional paint sprayer). But you can achieve an extremely similar look using high gloss paint or applying a few coats of poly. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Alexis says
Congratulations on Clara! She’s beautiful!!!!
We are expecting a little lady in July and are in the process of transforming an old dresser into a changing table. We used a high gloss latex enamel paint. With enamel paint, would you still recommend using poly afterwords? Thanks!
Alexis
YoungHouseLove says
Nope, just skip the poly step. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Diane says
I just had my cherry clock painted black and it looks terrible. You can see the may different brush marks and and the painting looks very uneven. It looks so bad. I could have done it better myself. Any suggestions? I am going to try to redo it. Any suggestions on what kind of black paint I should use?
YoungHouseLove says
We would suggest sanding things down so they look more even, brushing on a thin coat of oil-based primer (tinted by the paint people for black paint) and then adding two to three super thin and even coats of semi-gloss black paint. The while key is getting things smooth before you start and applying such thin costs that they stay that way (be sure to give each layer plenty of drying time and don’t go back over any areas to touch them up while they’re still wet). Using a foam roller can keep things smooth so for this project we’d actually recommend it. Good luck!
xo,
s
nicole says
Congrats again on baby Clara. She is so beautiful.
I had a question about paint. Can I mix paint if, it’s a different finish. Example a white semi-gloss and a light beige flat. Also, I went to Lowes and HomeDepot and both stores told me to use a semi-gloss and skip the water-based polyurethane. They thought I was crazy for even asking.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Nicole,
We actually wouldn’t mix paint if it’s different finishes because you might end up with a spotty finish. And as for the poly, it’s 100% optional, so while we used it and love it on our dining table, many projects can be completed without it. Think of it as extra credit- although the application and the product choice is tricky (we suggest using the exact brand that we mention in this post or none at all). So if your piece looks good without it you might be best off skipping that last step. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Rayna says
I came across your website on facebook Home Goods page, and now I am absolutely addicted! I just got married and my husband and I have just moved into a home here in Napa, CA.
I have a question, as many couples starting out a lot of our furniture is hand-me-downs, including our bed. It’s a dark wood and I really wanted antiqued white wood furniture for our bedroom to go with a couple of antiqued white pieces we already have.
My issues is the bed is a four poster bed and the posts are carved and I really wanted to paint the bed but didn’t know how hard something like that would be. Is it possible to do this? This is the bed we have.
http://www.bombay.ca/product.php?productid=16147&cat=277&page=1
Thank you in advance for any suggestions you have to offer. Cheers from Napa!
Rayna
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yeah it’s totally doable! Just use a brush and follow the steps above. Good luck!
xo,
s
Debra says
What a fantastic tutorial, but I just have to comment on the finish. I’m sure that you know this, but perhaps your readers don’t realize that there is a HUGE difference between polyurethane and polycrylic. It’s very important to know that polyurethane will yellow over time and polycrylic will not. So on a white piece of furniture, you’ll want to spring for the extra money it will cost you to buy Minwax polycrylic to avoid the yellowing. You’ll never regret it!
YoungHouseLove says
Absolutely! That’s why we recommend that specific Polycrylic by name. We’ve never found anything else to be even remotely comparable!
xo,
s
Doris says
I’m getting ready to have ready made kitchen oak front cabinets installed. I’ve read your instructions to put oil based primer, then 2 coats of latex paint and then 2 coats of polycrylic. Does that apply to the sides, back and base – inside and outside- which are made of pressed board or plywood (not oak like the front frame and doors) of the cabinets, also? I’m doing this in a rental and want it to be very durable.
Thanks
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Doris,
Yikes! Don’t use poly on cabinets! Here’s a step by step tutorial for those (this one is just for furniture): https://www.younghouselove.com/2008/11/how-to-paint-your-kitchen-cabinets/
That exact method is the most durable and professional way to go. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Kate says
Hi there! I love your blog and this tutorial helped me tackle painting my kitchen table. I had a light-wood table that looked to have just a polyurethane seal on it. I hand-sanded down to the original wood and then used a latex-based primer. I’m working in my apartment and was worried about the fumes from the oil-based primer. The guys at the home store said it would be fine. I then painted it with a foam roller in very thin coats (3 all over and 5 just on the top for full coverage). It looks great, but the table top feels gritty. Is it possible to sand the top to smooth it out before applying poly or do I need to start the process over? If so, what grain would be best? Also, do I need to wait a certain amount of time before I sand or would about 20 hours be enough?
Thanks so much for your help!!!
Kate
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Kate,
With latex primer under latex paint (which results in a grittier, tackier surface) it’s best to wait a full week before sanding to smooth things out. Then use 200-250 grit paper (you might actually need to apply one more thin coat of latex paint after sanding, which you should then let dry another 24 hrs before moving on to polying). Good luck!
xo,
s
Katy says
Hello! I used your great tutorial to paint two pieces this weekend, including a table that is very similar to your pedestal table in your sun room! My question — with the oil based primer, I can’t seem to get my brush clean after applying it. It’s a sticky mess and I keep ruining my paint brushes. Do you have that problem?
YoungHouseLove says
Good question! Just use some mineral spirits or paint thinner to rinse your brush. Anything water based (like soap) won’t work but those products cut through the oil to get your brush clean. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Iris says
Hey guys! Currently, my kitchen table and cabinets are the traditional pecan wood color. Therefore, I’d like to paint the table white and am debating on either staining the cabinets a dark mahogany-like shade or painting white. Other DIY sites suggest lightly sanding the surface once the primer dries, whereas you recommend applying the latex paint on top of dried primer. Is another round of sanding necessary or will I still get a seamless effect without sanding? Thanks in advance for your advice! = )
YoungHouseLove says
Nope, we didn’t sand after the primer at all (nor did anyone else whose photos we featured in this post). As long as you apply the primer thinly and evenly (along with the latex paint) it’s not necessary at all. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Paula says
Thank you for the step-by-step instruction! I have two nightstands that were bought relatively “cheap” from a moving sale for my son’s room. They are in good condition…just needed revamping! I’m anxious to get started and so thankful for your instructions! Thank you again!
Adrienne says
I have two questions. First, is there any benefit to the poly beyond a shiny finish? Why not skip a step and just use glossy paint? Is the poly more durable and chip resistant than paint?
I’ve had a very hard time getting my paint perfectly smooth and have had to do a lot of sanding between coats. Is the poly equally difficult to apply? Should I also sand between coats?
And on the topic of sanding…should I sand before I put on my first coat of poly? I find that the sanding really helps my finish stay smooth to the touch, but ridged unsanded paint *looks* better than smooth sanded paint. If that makes sense. Will adding the poly correct the look?
I guess that was more than two! Thanks for your help. I hope you haven’t addressed my questions already… I did read through all of the comments, and I didn’t see the answers.
YoungHouseLove says
Think of the poly as extra credit! It definitely provides a more durable and wipeable finish than glossy paint would, but it also can show brush strokes and yellow if you don’t pick the right poly or apply it thinly and evenly as described. Hence the extra credit reference, if you have it in you and do it well you’ll be left with something long lasting and gorgeous. If not just skip it and go for glossy paint. And as for the sanding, we don’t sand between paint or poly coats. Thin and even applications help things go on smooth so sanding isn’t necessary (of course if you feel the need go for it, but we followed the exact steps outlined in this tutorial, which you can see didn’t include sanding between coats). As for whether poly will correct anything, the answer is no! Be sure each coat of paint (and poly if you decide to go for it) looks great before moving on. Typically nothing (not primer, paint or poly) ever corrects flaws underneath and only emphasizes them as you go). Slow and steady wins the race! Hope it helps.
xo,
s
Adrienne says
Ok, thank you!
I have been ever so careful with my (very thin!) coats of paint, but still haven’t been able to get a smooth finish (hence the sanding). I guess I just don’t have the knack!
Thanks for the tips. It’s nice to have someone to ask!
Cheers,
Adrienne
YoungHouseLove says
Good luck!!!
xo,
s
mike says
I want to paint an old bed. Can I paint it white without stripping off the oil base stain. This bed is old with small spools. It will take a greta deal of time to sand.
YoungHouseLove says
Yes, just be sure to use the oil-based primer and then follow it with latex paint. Good luck!
xo,
s
Alisa Parker says
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I absolutely LOVE your blog! I am currently working on my first furniture project. It has proven to be quite challenging. Of course, I now realize my first project was a bit ambitious (my dinner table). But, I’ve already started, so I need to see it through! Originally, I was simply going to restore the original wood color. I purchased the all in one versions from Minwax and Cabot (Polyshades). I tried them both and neither worked well, so I stripped them off. After much research I had decided to paint, which is what I really wanted to do in the first place, but had decided against it. Now, the primer that I used is an interior latex multi-purpose primer from Valspar (Lowe’s). Will that primer be OK or do I need to start over with oil-based? Does humidity play a big factor in the amount of time it takes paint to totally dry? My paint is dry to the touch, but slightly sticky (it’s been about 4 hrs of dry time). Is it OK to move on the the 2nd coat?
YoungHouseLove says
We would definitely let that primer dry for 48 hours and start all over with the oil-based primer. And humidity plays a huge role in the outcome of your project and drying time, so never move on to the next coat unless you’re certain things are thoroughly cured (latex primer can leave things permanently tacky which is just one of the reasons we recommend oil). Good luck!
xo,
s
Jodie says
i purchased a kitchen table and chair set from a garage sale and decided to paint them black. I sanded the surface and painted my latex based primer and now it is cracking/alligatoring. Now what should I do? Do I need to strip it all and start over?
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, we would strip or sand it down and start over with the oil-based primer! Latex causes a ton of issues just like the one you’re describing. Good luck!
xo,
s
Larissa says
How would you recommend approaching a large, king-sized poster bed? It has detailed posters so I am thinking that spraying it would be much easier… Have you done this or know how to do this? Should I purchase/rent a paint spray gun? Latex vs. oil? Help!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Larissa,
We never recommend using a spray guy unless you’re very good at it. Otherwise you’ll end up with drips and other inconsistencies. We would definitely recommend a brush with thin and even coats of primer and paint. We’ve painted many intricate pieces that way without issue. And as for oil vs latex, just follow our advice in this post. It’s what has always worked best for us. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Larissa says
Thank you!
Molly says
Hey Guys! First of all, LOVE your blog! You guys have the best ideas :) I’ve painted a couple nightstands using the steps you outlined above and they turned out great, so thanks for that! Now I’m going to attempt some decorative paining on a TV stand. I was planning on following these exact steps above for the base coat and then using acrylic craft paints for the decorative part, and then finishing it all off with the poly. Do you know if the acrylic craft paint will “stick” ok to a semi-gloss base coat? Or do I need to use a flat base coat? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
We would definitely use a flat base coat, top that with decorative acrylic paint, then use the poly to seal everything in. Definitely be sure to give everything a few days of drying time in between (especially wait a few days to apply the poly so the craft paint fully cures). Good luck!
xo,
s
Sue H says
This comment is for Iris. You mentioned you wanted to paint your kitchen cupboards white. I have the perfect paint for you. It is called Cabinet Rescue & can be found @ most Home DePo’s. I actually ordered some direct from the company for my son as he couldn’t find it here in RI. I think the company is based in New Hampshire. As I recall I don’t think priming is necessary with this paint but I did it anyway thinking if I am going to make these last I would do the best I could and not skip any steps. It paied off. Soon afterwards we needed to have our house re-acessed for whatever reason and whoever looked at our house asked if I had just had new cabinets put it. They say they can tint this pain a light color but that is as far as they go. White is best or off white. The paint sets up as hard as if you had bought the cabinets from a showroom. They advise waiting I think 28 days before you use a cleaner on them which I did. They don’t chip etc like reg paint does. That is one reason I was afraid of painting them until a contracter I know from Canada recommended this. No top coat is necessary but I think I gave them 2 coats. I used a dense small roller which worked great for the edges. Was able to set them on milk crates in the garage to dry. You do need space that is for sure. I was so proud of myself for completing this project on my own & here we are several yrs later and they look great still. I wouldn’t go any other way. I would think this would work very well on any furniture you wanted white esp for kids cuz it won’t chip like other paint. It only comes in quart size and cost around $16-$18 a quart . I am almost sure that no sanding was needed and also you could use it on laminate etc. Give it a try. Would like to hear from you. Have not done this before but will give you my e-mail & I suppose if it is not allowed they will let me know. Good Luck
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Sue,
Thanks for sharing that tip for Iris!
xo,
s
Leigh Anne says
I’ve been painting a desk over the past week and need some help. After sanding it, priming with Kilz (oil-based), putting on three thin coats of white paint, and finishing with two coats of poly, the results are still a bit streaky. It’s been about 48 hours since my last coat of poly. What would you recommend that I do to fix this and get a smoother finish?
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, we haven’t experienced that. If the paint is streaky looking, it probably just needs a few more smooth and even coats (sand a bit of the poly off and try to apply a few more coats of paint until it’s smooth, followed by poly). And if the poly is streaky we would sand it a bit with high grit (150+) sandpaper and then apply a few more thin and even coats of the poly. Good luck!
xo,
s
Leigh Anne says
Thanks for your advice – I’ll give it a try!!
Diana says
Thank you guys so much for all your great advice in the original post and in the comments (which I finally finished reading, yay!) Also, congratulations on Clara. She’s lovely. I’m also expecting a little girl this fall.
With your help, I have just refinished a super cheap Craigslist-snagged changing table/dresser. I sanded (with a mask) and then had my husband put on the oil-based primer. It’s so funny that so many other commenters have been talked out of it at the store — I had two different clerks try to talk me out of it as well, but that might be because I was pregnant. I got nowhere near it until it dried, I promise!
Then I painted two thin thin coats of Mythic (thanks for the pregnancy-safe tip!) in “Bursting with Taste” — a lovely light celery-lime — with a 2″ angled purdy brush. I am NOT a brush expert, and I love the way it turned out. I guess I don’t mind the occasional hint of brush stroke — it just mimics the wood grain.
Now, after reading all the comments, I’m rethinking the minwax (I got the exact kind you recommend). I don’t know if it’ll be safe for me to use. I’d planned on coming by and asking if I should poly the whole thing or just the changing table top (since I know it’ll likely get messy!) and now I guess I wonder if your advice would change any if I said Safecoat instead of Minwax, since I think only Safecoat would be appropriate for me to use in my condition.
Thanks again!
YoungHouseLove says
What finish is your Mythic paint? If it’s semi-gloss or glossy you’ll be just fine without any Minwax at all. If it’s flat, satin, or eggshell we’d recommend two or three super thin coats of the Minwax Poly (applied with a mask or by someone else, just to be on the safe side!). Or you could opt to use the Safecoat instead- which you could definitely tackle yourself (we would still suggest applying it outside since it’s not completely odorless and it’s still nice to be in a ventilated area). Hope it helps and good luck!
xo,
s
Christiana says
Do you have any advice geared towards repainting older furniture that might have lead paint in the layers below? I’m tackling a pair of vintage chairs that might be old enough to contain lead. I’ve already been steered towards a respirator and doing this outside.
YoungHouseLove says
You can pick up a lead test kit at Hone Depot or Lowe’s for just a few bucks and if you do have a positive reading we would recommend that you avoid disturbing that paint and just prime and paint right over it to seal it in (no sanding or stripping!). Good luck.
xo,
s
Jessie Achterhof says
Hi J&S,
I am about to embark on my first furniture before/after adventure. I want to give an old bookcase a new life with a fresh coat of antique white paint with warm aqua accents on the back wall which will peek out behind books and other objects. The bookcase is currently painted a similar shade of white with what looks like a flat paint. So my question to you–do I have to apply a coat of poly or can I skip right ahead to re-painting it with latex paint? Thank you so much. You are such an inspiration!
YoungHouseLove says
Never skip the primer! You need it to hold the new paint in place do it doesn’t bubble or peel. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Jessie says
Oops–I meant “primer” not “poly”. Sorry!
proudgrma says
I am doing a base painting, plus decorative painting of a child’s chair for a charity auction. I understand the steps you’ve used to paint furniture, but I wonder about the final water based poly coat. Any water based poly I’ve used has turned the paint color yellowish. Does the Minwax product turn out differently? BTW, do you brush on the poly coat or wipe it on? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
The specific Polycrilic that we mentioned has never yellowed for us (other products do though!). Just apply it thinly and evenly with a brush. Good luck!
xo,
s
Diana says
Thanks, Sherry. It’s semi-gloss, as you recommend in the tutorial (I’m all about following directions!). But since it’s a changing table, I want to make doubly sure I’m protecting it from spills. I think I’ll try the safecoat. Thanks again!
YoungHouseLove says
Good luck!
xo,
s
Catherine says
I’ve inherited two very useful, but really ugly sideboards. They have been stained dark, dark brown. I’d love to give them a makeover and paint them white but I’m a bit worried about the stain bleeding through. Is there any particular primer/paint combination that could help?
Thanks in advance!
YoungHouseLove says
Just follow this tutorial to the letter! The oil based primer is the most important step!
xo,
s
Margaret says
i am going to (attempt) to repaint my bedroom furniture with your guide! i have a whole bedroom set with a dresser, night stand, and 2 smaller dressers. i’m going to start with the nightstand. :) my father bought these for me about 10 years ago and they aren’t in terrible shape, we bought them brand new. but they are white (everyone buys their little girl white furniture!). i want to paint them a darker espresso brown. mainly on the edges is where some paint has chipped. on the top surface its not chipped at all.
1.should i sand the entire thing, or just mainly where the paint is chipping?
2. do you have any paint color recommendations?
3. which brush do you recommend?
THANKS! i just found your site last week, and i’m pretty much obsessed now! i’ve made my own mood board with inspirations from all of yours.
YoungHouseLove says
If the whole thing is shiny, sand the whole thing. If it’s not, just sand where it’s chipping until it’s smooth. As for paint just bring home some paint chips and see which ones you like. You can even try to match them to other dark furniture you have and select the one that’s the closest match. As for the brush, we like 2″ angled brushes from Purdy (available at Lowe’s or Home Depot). Hope it helps!
xo,
s