Whether you’re interested in painting a chair, a table, or any other wooden piece of furniture, the steps are pretty much the same.
Take this table that we built and subsequently painted along with the accompanying white chairs (which used to be a golden blond wood tone).
Sprucing things up with a fresh coat of white paint took them from thrift store (where we got the table base) to Pottery Barn (which sells a similar version of it for 500 beans) in just a few hours.
But enough jibber-jabber. On with the how-to deets:
Step 1- Evaluate the surface of the piece that you’d like to paint. If it’s a sleek glossy surface (like varnished or sealed wood) you’ll want to gently sand the entire piece with 100 grit sandpaper). If it’s more of a dry chalky texture (like unfinished wood or flat paint) you can forgo the sandpaper and skip right to step two.
Step 2- Break out the oil-based primer to ensure that the paint sticks and no stains come through and ruin your finish (we’ve also used Zinsser Smart Prime with great success, which is a low-VOC stain-blocking primer that’s not oil-based – so it’s less stinky). Give the entire piece a good once over with a small foam roller or a paint brush. This coat of primer doesn’t have to be perfectly even in tone (it’ll probably look thinner in some areas since that’s how primer rolls) but as long as the entire piece is well covered – and it’s not too gloppy and thick – it’s ready for step three once it dries.
Step 3- Use a fresh small foam roller or paint brush to apply two thin and even coats of latex paint (a semi-gloss finish is usually best since it’s nice a wipe-able and durable choice). Many people mistakenly think that latex paint isn’t supposed to be applied over oil-based primer, but the real painting no-no is applying latex paint over oil-based paint, which is a guaranteed bubble-fest and should be avoided at all costs. And a word about small foam rollers vs. brushes: according to experts, all rollers – especially if used too quickly- may rile up the paint and lead to bubbles while paint brushes are the most bubble free application method known to man (although you might have brush stroke issues if the paint isn’t applied thinly enough or given ample drying time between coats).
We painted the table above with a paint brush, not a roller. But we have also used small foam rollers with great success, so those are actually our recommended choice for beginners since they cut down on brush strokes or drippy finishes and seem to be the most error proof. No matter what you use, be sure to wait until the first coat of paint is thoroughly dry before applying a second coat (each coat should be applied super lightly and evenly – aim for the thickness of an eggshell or a piece of paper). This thin application is the key to avoiding brush strokes or roller marks for a smooth, gorgeous finish. Repeat after me: three or even four super thin coats are far better than one or two thick and drippy ones!
Step 4- This step is optional, so think of it as extra credit. Brushing on two thin and even coats of water-based poly for wipe-able protection that really goes the extra mile (and provides a glossy oh-so-luxe sheen) can’t hurt if you pick the right stuff. The only two brands that we’ve ever used with unmatched success are these two, so they’re our strong recommendation (other types can yellow or crack over time):
- Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish in “Clear Gloss” (found at any home improvement center)
- Safecoat Acrylacq (which is a low-VOC, non-toxic alternative sold at eco boutiques or online at places like greendepot.com)
We went the extra mile and applied poly to our white table above for a bit of added protection, and we even thinly polyed the chairs since they need to be just as easy to wipe down due to their proximity to food whenever we dine in the sunroom. Thin is definitely the operative word, and again you’ll want to be sure to let the first coat thoroughly dry before going in for the second. Any time you go over semi-wet paint or poly to smooth things out you’ll get terrible drag marks, so work from one side to the other and never go back over things until they’re completely dry.
Step 5- Wait at least a full 72 hours to place objects on your newly painted piece to avoid dents or divots in your finish. If you really want to be on the safe side, we’d recommend waiting five full days. Sometimes factors like humidity and primer/paint/poly thickness can keep things from fully curing up, and you don’t want to get indents from using your newly painted piece too quickly. Waiting this long might take some willpower because you’re dying to sit on/eat on/enjoy your brand new piece, but it’s worth the wait. Promise.
Easy, right? Ok, those were a lot of words, so it might sound complicated. But just take things one step at a time. And remember to breathe. You can totally do it. There’s really no reason to live with wood furniture that’s not exactly the tone or the shade that you’d like. So from painting an old side table a handsome glossy black to giving a scratched up wooden chair a cheerful red tone, it’s definitely a project that you can confidently tackle in an afternoon. Go forth and paint something!
*Oh and it bears noting that if your furniture item is anything other than solid wood or veneered wood (like laminate, melamine, etc) you should visit your local hardware store and ask the paint pro there what they recommend for that surface. There are some great oil-based primers and enamel paints out there (which are changing all the time) so it might be possible to get a great result. The key is really roughing up the surface so it’s less glossy and then priming and painting with the best stuff they have (usually oil or enamel based).Good luck!
Psst- In the market for a quick cabinet painting tutorial? Look no further.
Psssst- Wondering how to paint a brick fireplace? Wonder no more.
Pssssssst- Itching to paint wood paneling? Try this.
Terri says
How can I get a rubbed finish instead of a high gloss finish? Is there a particular wax product that will give you that result?
YoungHouseLove says
Good question! We’d recommend asking the pros at your local home improvement or paint store. Good luck!
xo,
s
Pri says
hi,
I have some old wood furniture in natural wood color.
I want to change them to a dark walnut color to match the other furniture. The surface is smooth, no cracks, looks like a flat finish.
So, Can I skip sanding & start with primer stage
thanks…
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, oil-based primer is your first step. No sanding necessary!
xo,
s
A. Hawkins says
I was gifted an old (15 – 20 years or so) kitchen table and six chairs. The table top and chair seats are light natural wood and the table legs and chair back and legs are painted. They were an awful country green color until I painted them black enamel (had on hand), which helped things a lot. After a few years though, the chair backs and legs are a little scratched and the green paint is showing through. I am thinking of repainting everything, the entire table and chairs. Enamel paint is a bit shiney, so I assume sanding is needed. Do I need to sand through both the black and green paint and down to the natural wood? Do I need to use paint stripper? Also, hubby (who doesn’t care for the look of painted wood and would rather leave the table this awful white-blonde color in case the paint looks worse, is worried about paint being food safe. Will the Minwax Poly be safe to serve food from? We have little kids and between spills and such we just want to have a protective finish that will last and be safe. Thanks for your advice!
YoungHouseLove says
You might want to ask the paint pros at your local home improvement store, but we tend to avoid chemical strippers when sanding (while wearing a mask) is an alternative. As long as you get down to the bottom layer of paint and rough it up (you don’t have to go all the way through it to the bare wood) you should be ok. As for a food safe and much less toxic poly alternative, check out places like greendepot.com to see what you can turn up. There are many purer alternatives these days (you’ll just want to do a test swatch on the underside of the table to be sure it goes on clear). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Katy says
I love your tutorial. I have put in many hours already painting a big boy bed for my little guy following your steps above. I’m almost ready for the polycrylic coat. However, I’m a little nervous about that. I’ve never used this stuff before is it hard to put on. I hope not as tempermental as the oil based primer was. Also, I bought the minwax polycrylic clear satin. Is this ok, or should I take it back and get the clear gloss?
YoungHouseLove says
No way, it’s pretty straightforward as long as you got the exact stuff we described (the finish doesn’t matter so satin is fine) and apply it suuper thinly and evenly (like the thickness of a sheet of paper). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Marci says
Your blog makes me feel totally “House Empowered”!!!
I love doing projects around the house, most of which are satisfyingly successful (padded headboard in bedroom – divine!) but also some of which fail dreadfully (last week’s-should-have-been-a-one-hour project-where-did-my-entire-Sunday-go-the-glue-gun-is-not-my-friend-anymore-make-it-yourself-kitchen-roller-shade incident). It’s all part of the fun of having your own nest. :)
Next weekend I will tackle the repainting of my two childhood dressers. I painted these almost 10 years ago with standard latex semigloss (no primer). I remember they took forever to dry. Now that I’m doing it again, I wonder if I need to prime before repainting, since they already have the latex base coat. Do you recommend repriming with the oil based primer anyway? Is it possible that I have too much paint on there and going straight to latex will result in supersoft, thick paint that may NEVER dry? Do I need to sand these down and start from scratch?
:) Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
We definitely recommend applying one thin and even coat of oil-based primer followed by a few thin and even coats of latex paint. If they’re thin enough they should all dry perfectly, and the primer will keep things looking smoother and less flawed for the long haul. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Jen says
I have a glider that is honey wood with varnish and I would like to paint it white. I have a few talented sister in laws that will recover the upholstry for me. Would the steps you describe above work?
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, just follow this tutorial!
xo,
s
Rakel says
This was timely! I just bought an old vanity off craigslist and was looking for some tips on painting. Thank you!
Jenny says
I am FINALLY painting the doors in my house. The coat of oil based primer is on and I’m letting it dry. Cannot wait to be rid of the 8 dark brown doors in the small, narrow hallway of the house – two bathroom, two closet, and 4 bedroom doors on a “L” shaped hallway. They’re going white and I couldn’t be more excited.
Question: What type of brush do you use when you’re painting with oil based primer? Do you clean the brush or just use an inexpensive “disposable?” And if you clean the brush, what solvent are you using?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Jenny,
We actually do both. We sometimes clean our oil-based primer brushes using mineral spirits, but other times we take the cheap and easy “disposable” route. Hope it helps!
-John
Carolann says
Hey Guys,
This blog is 100% sugar.
I just painted two dressers rescued from the curb, and I’m about to apply the recommended clear gloss. Do I have to sand between the two coats as instructed on the can or can I bypass that? I’m tired with the sanding already.
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Carolann,
We have shared the step by step process that we take when we refinish furniture above (which doesn’t include sanding between poly coats because we apply it thinly and smoothly so it’s not necessary in our case) but you might want to follow those directions to the letter just to be safe. If you’re pretty sure you applied thin and even coats you should be ok without the sanding though. Good luck!
xo,
s
Bev says
This is very helpful, but I am not sure what type of paint to use. Right now the pieces are a maple color and I want to go to a darker walnut. How do I choose the paint? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
We’re not sure what you mean by type. If you’re wondering about brand, we like Bejamin Moore, Behr, Valspar, Glidden, and Olympic among others. And if it comes to the finish, a semi-gloss paint will work wonders even without the extra credit coat of poly that we recommend (if you’re going to use the poly you can go for a flat finish instead, it’s really up to you). If you’re wondering about the actual type of paint (latex vs. oil) we recommend oil-based primer and latex paint (which is what the pros consistently recommend). And if you’re wondering about color, just go with what you love (bringing home a lot of swatches and holding them up to see which ones you like in your space can work wonders). Although your pieces are maple and you want to go with a walnut tone, a number of paint colors can mimic that look, so bring a ton of espresso and walnut toned paint swatches home and go from there. Good luck!
xo,
s
Shantel says
I need some advice… I have painted pieces in the past following these steps and it has worked out GREAT! So thank you!! But I am wanting to paint a small piece of ikea furniture (not real wood of course). Since it was a shiney white color, I sanded it well with 100 gt sandpaper. Now when I go to add the oil based primer it doesn’t spread nicely. I stirred it very well and in the can it looks normal. Is it because this is a cheap piece of furniture and it won’t work?? Or is my primer bad (it’s only 6 months old and has been kept nicely)?? Or is it because of how hot and humid where I live (Texas – 90 degrees)? I don’t mind having a bit of a texture because I am trying to make it look vintage. I just don’t want to go to all the work and the paint now stick. It kind of resembles paste once on the piece. I appreciate any advice you might have.
Thanks!
Shantel
YoungHouseLove says
It’s that darn Ikea furniture! It’s not real wood so it doesn’t perform very well when it’s sanded. So sorry! The good news is that one very thin coat of the oil-based primer followed by a coat or two of paint should work out the best possible way (meaning there’s no better method, so it’s your best bet). Good luck!
xo,
s
Mallory says
I was wondering if I need to do anything special when painting when it is very hot and humid. I’m hoping to avoid sticky paint. Is it ok to paint outside, or should I try to find an air conditioned room?
YoungHouseLove says
Painting outside is fine- just give everything lots of drying time between coats (ex: a day between the coat of primer and the coat of paint, another day for the poly, etc). Good luck!
xo,
s
Charlotte Bickerstaff says
Just found your site and love it. My question is I would like to paint an old corner cupboard. But I would like to have the cottage look. I was wanting a amber or gold color with distressed edges. Any help would be great. thanks
YoungHouseLove says
Just click the How To tab (see it up under our blog header?) for a cabinet painting tutorial. It’s a slightly different process than painting furniture. As for the worn look, after priming apply a coat of latex paint in the color that you want to “reveal” with sandpaper later. Then wait for that to dry and apply the amber/gold colored paint on top, wait for it to dry, and sand the edges to reveal the first color that you applied underneath. Good luck!
xo,
s
Kalyn Garcia says
Hi! Just found your site, perfect timing! Recently bought a mahogany wood (VERRRRY long) dining table. I wish to lose the stain and go with paint. Do you have to use different grit sandpaper per wood or can I just use the 100?? Also, since I’m shortening the legs to just (maybe) 20″ for a Japanese low table…Do you know any ideas/creative solutions for making the floor cushions into seats? Odd yes, but I am running on zero here for original thoughts. Thank you for any and all help you guys!!!! Excited in MD.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Kalyn,
You can actually follow this tutorial to the letter for your table (and the 100 grit sandpaper will be just fine). As for turning floor cushions into seats, maybe you can pick up small “feet” at the hardware store and attach them to squares of wood that are the same size as the floor cushions and then plop the cushions on top of them for slightly raised floor cushion “seats” for you and your guests. Good luck!
xo,
s
Suzy McLaughlin says
Great site and full of tried and trues! I have two unfinished chairs that I want to paint a distressed black, with the wood showing thru in some areas. I’m not doing the bang with a chain thing. Should I stain the bare wood first, add black coat and then sand? Or, should I stain, rub with candle wax and then paint? I’m very handy when I know what I’m doing! Appreciate your advice.
YoungHouseLove says
We would suggest B: stain, rub with candle wax and then paint. Good luck!
xo,
s
Jen says
I decided to paint my dining room table. I primed, then sanded a little and did 3 coats of paint (really pale yellow). Instead of using spray paint I wanted to be really thrifty and use a gallon of Opps paint from Home Depot (the kind with primer in it). I now have brush strokes :-(
I plan on doing a faux glaze (applying it, then wiping it off, etc).
Is there anyway to fix this? Will the coat of poly help hide the brush strokes?
Thanks!
a before picture and will send you the before and after!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Jen,
The only way to remove brush strokes would be to lightly sand the entire piece to get them out (try 150 grit or higher) and then apply the paint again (this time without brush strokes) using a small foam roller and going very slowly. The key to a flawless finish is using thin thin thin and super even coats (nothing too thick or gloppy). Then follow it with your glaze. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Erin says
I’d like to paint a dresser with intricate details on legs and between drawers. I imagine it will be nearly impossible to sand in the little curves of these spots. Do you think it will be noticeable, and is there another product you suggest I use on these areas to strip the varnish?
Thanks, and I love all your info on this page!
YoungHouseLove says
Since you’re painting and not staining, just priming those areas without sanding (thin and even coats are key for both the primer and the paint) should do the trick!
xo,
s
Jen says
Thanks Sherry! Once it COMPLETELY dried and the glaze was applied, the brush strokes are hardly noticed. Now, I don’t know if I like the glazed look and am thinking about re-doing the whole thing a glossy white :-(
YoungHouseLove says
Glad those brush strokes were minimized once it dried and the glaze was applied! And good luck with the glossy white finish if that’s what you decide to go with!
xo,
s
Miller Callen says
First, many thanks for the lab & pug prints I ordered from your shop. They’re almost as cute as my real life lab and pug(s)…actually I think my husband likes the prints better! In any case, two white frames from Target, and they’re a perfect addition to my kitchen.
Re: painting furniture. I recently bought a drop-leaf table/ four chairs from an antique store and was told there are 3 coats of polyurethane on it. Great for my kids, but I don’t really like the existing paint job. Do you know whether it’s possible to prime over the poly or do I need to sand everything down and start from there?
Also, after reading your blog for the last few months, I’m trying my best to add some more vibrant color splashes to my otherwise blues/beiges/greens. Am I crazy to think if repainting this table/chairs a burnt orange or am I better off going w/ gloss white and pulling in the orange w/ accessories. Don’t want to do anything drastic….but I just feel like my entire house looks the same!
YoungHouseLove says
So glad you’re loving your prints! As for the color of your table, a burnt orange actually sounds amazing, but crisp white of course is more timeless (and you can always add a runner and done accessories for pops of color). And we would definitely recommend sanding down as much of the poly as you can before priming. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Miller Callen says
Thanks for your input Sherry. One more quick question….overall my house has a cottage type decor, but I’m also trying to incorporate some unexpected and more modern touches. My kitchen is painted BM Misty Dawn and cabinets are all BM Indian Ivory w/ brown umber glaze. Trim throughout house is white. Do you think having a gloss white table/chairs seems off in a room w/ so much “ivory” cabinetry? I think part of my hang-up (and possible resistance to burnt orange table/chairs — is it overkill?) is because my mom always told me my shoes should match my belt should match my purse….i.e. leading me down the wrong path to matchy-matchy decor
YoungHouseLove says
We would actually suggest picking a softer ivory tone for the table since stark white may feel off with the cabinetry. Although the white trim would probably allow bright white to work, we’d just recommend bringing a ton of soft white and light ivory paint chips home and holding them up to the cabinets to see which ones “go” but don’t necessarily match. You’ll probably find a number of options that feel like they’re in the same range without being super coordinated and matchy. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Nancy says
Thank you for such great information. I am painting some stained bookshelves that have cabinet storage at the bottom. I am concerned about the shelves getting scratched from books sliding in and out. Will the two coats of poly protect against that or is there something else I should do?
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, super thin coats of the poly that we mentioned by name will definitely make things more durable. Just be sure to apply them very very thinly, wait for each coat to thoroughly dry, and then give the whole piece a ton of time to dry before loading it up with stuff (to avoid dents, peeling paint, etc). Good luck!
xo,
s
Donna says
I’m finishing the primer coat on a child’s chair. What kind of brush do you use when applying the paint? Foam or bristles? Is it OK to use acrylic paints for decorative designs over the latex paint base and follow with the Minwax poly finish? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
We use a high quality angled bristle brush (we like the 2″ ones by Purdy). As for the use of acrylic paints over latex and under poly, we haven’t done it yet but it should work. Why not try testing it out on a spare piece of wood first. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Donna says
You are so helpful….thanks!!!
campblsoupgrl says
I don’t have a home improvement question but I just wanted to say thank you for answering everyone’s questions. I’m sure they appreciate it, I know I appreciate it, and all my questions are already answered! :)
YoungHouseLove says
Aw shucks. You’re making us blush. Thanks for the kind words!
xo,
s
Katrin says
Would I follow the same steps and utilize the same products in sanding and painting a crib or do you suggest something different to keep it safe for children? Is that polycrylic you suggest free of harmful substances? I just want to ensure anything with gnawing potential is safe.
YoungHouseLove says
We would suggest the same process except be sure to use a no-VOC paint and SafeCoat Acrylacq instead of poly (google around to find some- it’s very easy to use and it’s low-VOC and non-toxic for bambinos). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Margaret says
Hi there, love your web-site. I found it about a week ago and can’t stop coming back!! Your design aesthetic is beautiful, subtle and striking at the same time. Mine is all over the place, but I’m working on that.
My question is about paint. I’m getting ready to paint a table and chairs (how I found your site), and the guy at Home Depot was trying to sell me on their primer/paint all in one brand. Basically saying that I would be able to skip a couple of coats by using it. He thinks that two coats of this will do the trick, then the clear-coat finish. (rather than prime, two coats, then couple of coats of clear) Have you had any experience with this paint???
thanks,
Margaret
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, we’ve tried it and it and nope, it didn’t work for us. It’s not an oil-based primer so we still had bleed through and the drying time and nicks afterwards were far inferior to the process we outlined above. Sadly, that shortcut method isn’t really a shortcut at all (since we had to redo the piece again with the tried and true method that takes longer – but lasts longer too). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Margaret says
I kinew you were going to say that!! Especially since I bought the colors in that primer/paint combo. If I use an oil based primer first will I still be able to use this primer/paint as my color coat??? I may be returning them to the “oops” paint pile.
thanks
YoungHouseLove says
That might work, we just fear that it won’t cure/dry the same way that latex paint alone does (which is usually less tacky and slow to dry). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
kris reck says
Love this site…unfortunately, if found it after I had already painted my kitchen table.. It didn’t turn out as planned…the paint was too thick…I see from your site it should be thin….anyway…I want to redo it…originally…I had sanded it down to the bare wood, primed..(Not oil based like I now know would be the best) and applied 3 top coats…I want to use the same color again…black…just get rid of the thick patches and brush strokes…should I sand it down to the bare wood again and start completely over with the correct primer??? Don’t mind extra work…just want it to be correct and last! thanks Kris
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, sand down as much as you can and use the oil based primer. Also using a small foam roller to apply the paint will help the black go on thinly and avoid brush strokes so that would be our recommendation for your project. Good luck!
xo,
s
tise says
Hi youngsters! You’re an absolutely adorable family,your writing style really draws the reader in, and I’m hooked on your site! Congratulations on putting together such a smash hit. Question: I’m planning to try painting a wood piece for the first time, and the glossy white you have on your pedestal table is exactly the look I’m going for. Would you be willing to share the actual paint color? Want to be sure I get the right shade.
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Tise,
That’s Glidden’s off-the-shelf white paint in semi-gloss. Just grab it in the paint aisle and buy it instead of getting it mixed with colorant. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Danielle says
Just used your wonderful tutorial! We have one of those large electric fireplaces you can buy that sit on the floor against the wall (hope you can tell what I’m talking about it) that came with our house. It’s basically a metal part for the propane to come in, and then a wood box around it that is shaped like a mantle. Only problem is the wood is cherry colored veneer and doesn’t match anything in the room. So, I used oil-based primer and then white semi-gloss trim paint (it’s just had we had in the basement! Why go buy new paint?), and it looks awesome! The only snag was finding the right tool. I used a wool roller for the primer, which we then just tossed. This worked fine. I tried a new wool roller and a foam roller for the latex paint and both caused major bubbling. Using a hand brush really is best! As long as it’s high quality. I tried several we had, and some left major bristle marks, but thankfully one didn’t. Though the roller for the primer was fast, I did have to pull off a few “wool hairs” that came off into the paint. Will send a picture of the fireplace once it’s reinstalled! Thank you so much for the detail in your tutorials!
YoungHouseLove says
So glad it worked so well for you! Congrats!
xo,
s
Anthony says
Great site!
I see that you recommended using Acrylacq for a crib in an earlier posting. I plan on using Acrylacq for a similar project. Do you have any suggestions on how to apply Acrylacq onto railings and into hard to reach areas? Thanks in advance!
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, just go thinly and evenly with a small brush. We’ve used it on a bunch of small detailed items and it works just fine as long as you don’t apply it too thickly (you’ll get drips) and you allow it to fully dry between coats. Good luck!
xo,
s
Chelsea says
I used your steps here to paint a dresser for my nursery and it turned out great! A few years ago I (mistakenly) painted a table with latex paint without priming or sealing afterwards. Can I lightly sand then put oil based primer over the older latex before I repaint?
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, we would sand as thoroughly as possible before adding the primer so it grips the wood and not the brittle old paint. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
kris says
HI.. I’ve read most of your 15 pages of posts and just had an easy question…you are always reminding everyone to use “thin” coats of paint…do you mean to actually thin the paint with a bit of water or do you mean just be careful and apply it super thin… thanks!!
YoungHouseLove says
No need to thin anything with water, just apply it super thinly to the piece (about the thickness of a piece of paper or an eggshell). You’d be amazed how people glop things on (which never ends well). As for how long to wait to apply the polycrylic, we would suggest at least 6 hours and you could just put it on the next day to be safe. Then wait for each coat to fully dry before applying the next coat. That way it won’t stay sticky forever and your pieces will cure and harden really nicely for a long lasting finish. Good luck!
xo,
s
kris says
Sorry…forgot to add one other question…..how long do you wait to add the polyacrylic after painting….hours?? days??? THANKS!
Margaret says
OK, so I sanded to rough up the surface then started with my oil-based primer. That was my first problem… it went on thick and gloopy and was very hard to work with. So I spent a couple of hours the next day sanding the primer down to where I thought it looked… ok (not great, but decent). Then I started with the first coat of latex paint. That went on streaky and full of brush marks.
Should I re-sand and start all over? Should I sand lightly and do a second coat of latex? Should I use a can of spray paint (limiting my color choices)? Should I buy a paint sprayer, I would think that that would eliminate the streaking issue.
If it was my brush, do you use a new brush each time for each stage of the process (primer, paint, gloss)?
The table and chairs looks awful, and I’m ready to toss them and buy something new. They look so bad, I don’t even think I could sell tthem on craigs list right now.
:-(
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Margaret,
Slow and steady wins the race! We would recommend taking your time and starting over if you have the energy (by sanding everything down as much as possible). The primer lays the foundation for the paint, so if that’s gloppy and gross the final product will turn out that way too. The key is to apply it very thinly and evenly (just one coat). It will look patchy and not very even but as long as there’s a thin (and smooth) coat on the piece you’re good to go. You could apply spray primer (like Kilz oil-based stuff) but people without a lot of spray painting experience tend to have issues with drips and uneven coverage. For you we would recommend applying the single coat of oil-based primer with a small foam roller (one for smooth surfaces without any nap- it should feel like a soft piece of foam rubber- they sell them at Home Depot/Lowe’s). Then use a second foam roller to apply your thin and even coats of latex paint. Store the roller in a sealed plastic bag between coats so it doesn’t get all gunked up. You might need a high quality 2″ brush to get into the corners of things so pick that up as well (we actually recommend that you buy two, one for primer and one for paint). And use a semi-gloss latex paint without any poly since the poly is an extra credit step and it sounds like it might give you more problems than it’s worth since you’re having issues with coverage. Good luck!
xo,
s
Margaret says
I read about an additive to paint called Floetrol that is supposed to make paint go on less streaky. Any experience with that?
YoungHouseLove says
Nope, we’ve never used it but we have had excellent results (along with a lot of other commenters) from the tutorial that we outlined above (which doesn’t include any additives). Good luck with whatever you decide to do!
xo,
s
Lee says
Do you need an electric sander for these jobs? We dont have one of those:)
YoungHouseLove says
Nope, we’ve done many pieces by hand. Just get some low grit sandpaper and follow that sanding with some higher grit stuff to smooth things out and give you a nice finish. Good luck!
xo,
s
Holly says
Hi guys! I LOVE your site. I have to admit that I’m sort of a home improvement/craft newbie, but I’m certainly trying (and impressing my husband with my initial efforts, so I won’t complain TOO much) :) Anyway, we’ve got a great built-in cabinet from the 40s in one of our bathrooms that has apparently been painted every color in the book before we lived there (Pepto Bismol pink, Green Bay Packer green, etc. etc.). The previous owners had done an off-white color but I wanted to luxe up the look of the room so I chose a deep steel blue.
Over the weekend, I first lightly sanded everything and removed the drawers and hardware and — OOPS — started painting immediately. I’ll admit it – I got impatient. I didn’t use a roller (small brush instead) and while the finished product looks pretty good from afar (new hardware, new drawer liners), up close it’s sort of a mess. I’m noticing tons of brush strokes and parts have already been peeling.
I know I probably hurried too much, but I’m wondering whether you think I should (1) resand everything, this time with an electric sander and/or (2) use a primer, then two coats of paint with a roller followed by my poly?
(Also, any tips on how to get paint specks off tile? Doh!)
Thank you in advance! :)
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, the steps in this tutorial are defintely what we’d recommend for the best result, so just sand things down as well as possible and restart. Good luck!
xo,
s
Michelle Gourley says
Hi Youngsters! Two things:
(1) Picked up Olympic’s no VOC paint (in a semi-glass white for all my furniture re-painintg needs!)at Lowes, wondering if you’ve heard any good things about it? (I know you recommend Freshaire but didn’t have much luck finding any green stores near me).
(2) Just wanted to pass along a tip for getting that uber-sticky Rustoleum spray-paint off the skin: olive oil + a no-scratch Scotch-Brite pad or washcloth. Works like a charm (also worked well to remove a few arrant spray paint streaks that got on the mirror surface when I painted the frame- BONUS!)
Thanks for all you do guys! You are my DIY superheros!
Michelle
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Michelle,
We love Olympic’s No-VOC paint! We even used it in our bathroom for the big makeover. And thanks for the spray paint removing tip! Natural and amazing!
xo,
s
Yolanda Martins says
Hello! I absolutely love your site, so amazingly helpful. I wonder is I could seek your advise on a chest of drawers I painted red – the paint is a primer and paint in one. I decided to stick these stickers that are all the rage for walls. and then I applied a semi-gloss sealer. It looks great from a distance but when you get near it does show the stickers and looks tacky. I want to remove them and they seem to just peel off, but underneath of course the sealer wasn’t applied. do I have to sand everything and redo the chest of drawers, or can I apply another coat of sealer? if I were to redo the whole cabinet will it be ruined? I’m afraid of making a big mistake as this is the first time I’m doing this. Many thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, we can’t guarantee anything, but our best bet would be that you can remove the stickers and then lightly sand everything (with high grit paper like 150+) and then reapply just the sealer. Hopefully the paint will still look ok and the layer of sealer on top will make things look more even and finished. Good luck!
xo,
s
Susan says
I love your site! It provides much-needed inspiration as my husband and I do a major renovation to our new home.
Question, I have a wood table and chairs that I’d like to paint white with a antiqued white finish. How would you change your directions above to get this look? Also, do I need to sand and prime or can I just prime it?
Thanks!
Susan
YoungHouseLove says
We would recommend googling around for an antiquing tutorial. We have seen many of them so it will hopefully be easy enough to find. As for sanding and priming, if your piece is extra glossy, definitely sand first. If the wood feels absorbent and isn’t too shiny, you’re probably safe going right to the priming step. Good luck!
xo,
s
jackiep says
recently painted solid oak sideboard table and 8 chairs, it was previously varnished so we used nitromores to strip the varnish then sanded we then applied undercoat and 2 top coats both water based since I wanted a matt finish rahter than a glossy finish, we have started to varnish using a water based diamond glaze which is turning yellow, what can we do to stop yellowing?
YoungHouseLove says
Many polyurethanes, polycrilics, and glazes create a yellow cast, which is why we suggest the polycrilic that we do in this post by name (it’s the only one we’ve known not to yellow). Our only suggestion to you (since you don’t want a slight sheen, like that poly will provide) is to buy a number of matte glazes and other water based poly varieties and test them on other pieces of wood to see which ones don’t yellow. It’s tedious but for that matte finish it might be the only way. Good luck!
xo,
s
kris says
HI.. hope this isn’t a repeat question question…I’m sure you both are busy with your projects and oh soooo cute baby! I followed all your instructions on painting a solid oak table top….The paint turned out perfect..but I’m not crazy with the poly acrylic finish…can I sand that off and repaint another coat of the same color, and brand of paint…just a higher different sheen without repriming…let me know the best way….don’t want to do shortcuts…..it’s only time and sandpaper….thanks Kris
YoungHouseLove says
Absolutely! That should definitely work. Good luck!
xo,
s
Jennifer says
Hi there,
I just painted my metal bed with several coats of paint with primer in it. It looks nice, but it I think I got flat paint and not glossy…does that matter? Also, I decided to use the same paint on some other wood (already painted) furniture (dresser and bookcase) and am wondering if that was a wise choice. Will it be ok and not chip? And if there’s anything hot on it (curling iron) or wet (water glasses) will that mess up the paint?
Thanks for you input and I really appreciate your info on your site.
Be well
YoungHouseLove says
Glossy paint will hold up longer and be more wipeable so we definitely recommend it! As for wood furniture (even if it’s already painted) like a bookcase we would recommend the steps outlined in this post. Oil based primer and semi gloss or glossy paint (with poly as a bonus) is the best method we have found by far. No amount of poly or gloss will protect painted furniture from a hot curling iron, but it’s definitely waterproof and durable/wipeable for decades if it’s applied well (just refer to this post). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
JoAnn says
First, thank you so much for this site!
I am trying to paint a 14′ by 14″ counter board of rattiatta pine. It has been painted 5 times and now being sanded for the 5th time. The first 2 times it was defective paint. The next 3 times it was bubbles making the dry paint rough textured. I used 1/4″ nap and 3/8″ nap rollers and a black foam roller and all produced a board full of bubbles as I was applying the paint.
What am I doing wrong?! The last 3 times I used Olympic Premium Interior Latex paint. Once this last sanding is complete I’m thinking of priming the board then painting. Should I put a conditioner on it first; or is it too late for that?
I appreciate any and all information/help.
Thanks so much,
j :)
YoungHouseLove says
It’s just an educated guess, but we think the rollers might be riling up the paint and causing bubble, so in your case we would recommend applying very very very thin and even coats with a quality 2″ angled paint brush (we like Purdy brushes from Lowe’s/Home Depot). Of course as this tutorial recommends, oil-based primer is always a necessary first step, so we’ll assume that you’re putting on one thin and even coats of that first (after sanding). Then when we say thin we mean eggshell thin when it comes to the paint application, so you don’t get brush strokes. Three super thin and even coats are a million times better than one thick and goopy one. It also helps to wait about an hour between coats and to wait a day after priming. Also reserve judgement for a bit because the thin coat of primer will go on and look a bit rough (primer always looks that way, it’s supposed to so don’t fret). Then even as paint goes on it can show brush strokes, but if it’s thin and even enough they will dissipate but the time it dries, so that would be our recommendation. Good luck!
xo,
s
lauren says
Hi this seems like a good guide to follow one question, if ur furniture is white do u need the primer?
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, always use the primer no matter what you’re starting with. It helps the new paint stick!
xo,
s
Kiran says
hi,
so i just finished painting my dresser and chest drawers but i used eggshell paint, and didn’t sand it…it was quite glossy however will this be a problem? Should i re-sand everything and buy a glossier paint? Uf i leave it how it is right now, how durable do you think it will be?
Thanks so much, I’m really confused!!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Kiran,
If you used the oil-based primer that we recommended it might be ok (durable for a while, and only scratched if you apply a lot of pressure). If you didn’t sand or use oil-based primer and went straight to eggshell paint we definitely recommend letting it fully dry, sanding it down, oil-base priming it, and applying latex paint just like we recommend in this tutorial. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Michele says
I bought a chair at a second hand store that is painted white. When I got it home I saw a spot where the paint was peeling and I removed it revealing what I think is a wood surface below. I would like to repaint the chair black. Is it necessary for me to remove/strip the white paint off first? And if so what product do I use for that? Or can I just sand, prime, and paint the chair?
thank you. I look forward to your response as I am anxious to work on this chair.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Michelle,
Yup, you’ll want to remove that paint as much as possible so you don’t waste time painting over it only to have it all come peeling off (paint is only as durable as its foundation). We don’t like chemical strippers so we recommend sanding by hand (use low grit paper like 50 and then move up to higher grit paper like 200 to get as much paint off as possible). Then you can move on to the oil-based primer from there. Good luck!
xo,
s
Emily says
I just pained an already painted dresser white (he dresser was picked up at an antique store and is from the 60s). It was an antique yellow color originally. I used 80 grit sandpaper and primer. I then painted one coat of indoor satin finish white paint. It looked really patchy in the light so I gave it another coat, which didn’t help. What did I do wrong?
YoungHouseLove says
If the primer was water-based and not oil-based that could totally be the issue. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Emily says
The primer is kilz water based and the paint says 100% acrylic, which is water based, right? I thought you could use a water based primer and water based paint…?
Thanks so much for the help :)
YoungHouseLove says
That water-based primer is probably the problem! Actually you can’t paint latex or water-based paint over oil-based PAINT, but when it comes to the primer, the industry standard is to use the oil-based stuff (which can be followed by any type of paint (oil-based or water based) and is a lot more durable, stainproof, and quck curing. We’d recommend sanding everything down and applying one thin and even coat of oil-based primer followed by a few thin and even coats of paint. Good luck!
xo,
s