Whether you’re interested in painting a chair, a table, or any other wooden piece of furniture, the steps are pretty much the same.
Take this table that we built and subsequently painted along with the accompanying white chairs (which used to be a golden blond wood tone).
Sprucing things up with a fresh coat of white paint took them from thrift store (where we got the table base) to Pottery Barn (which sells a similar version of it for 500 beans) in just a few hours.
But enough jibber-jabber. On with the how-to deets:
Step 1- Evaluate the surface of the piece that you’d like to paint. If it’s a sleek glossy surface (like varnished or sealed wood) you’ll want to gently sand the entire piece with 100 grit sandpaper). If it’s more of a dry chalky texture (like unfinished wood or flat paint) you can forgo the sandpaper and skip right to step two.
Step 2- Break out the oil-based primer to ensure that the paint sticks and no stains come through and ruin your finish (we’ve also used Zinsser Smart Prime with great success, which is a low-VOC stain-blocking primer that’s not oil-based – so it’s less stinky). Give the entire piece a good once over with a small foam roller or a paint brush. This coat of primer doesn’t have to be perfectly even in tone (it’ll probably look thinner in some areas since that’s how primer rolls) but as long as the entire piece is well covered – and it’s not too gloppy and thick – it’s ready for step three once it dries.
Step 3- Use a fresh small foam roller or paint brush to apply two thin and even coats of latex paint (a semi-gloss finish is usually best since it’s nice a wipe-able and durable choice). Many people mistakenly think that latex paint isn’t supposed to be applied over oil-based primer, but the real painting no-no is applying latex paint over oil-based paint, which is a guaranteed bubble-fest and should be avoided at all costs. And a word about small foam rollers vs. brushes: according to experts, all rollers – especially if used too quickly- may rile up the paint and lead to bubbles while paint brushes are the most bubble free application method known to man (although you might have brush stroke issues if the paint isn’t applied thinly enough or given ample drying time between coats).
We painted the table above with a paint brush, not a roller. But we have also used small foam rollers with great success, so those are actually our recommended choice for beginners since they cut down on brush strokes or drippy finishes and seem to be the most error proof. No matter what you use, be sure to wait until the first coat of paint is thoroughly dry before applying a second coat (each coat should be applied super lightly and evenly – aim for the thickness of an eggshell or a piece of paper). This thin application is the key to avoiding brush strokes or roller marks for a smooth, gorgeous finish. Repeat after me: three or even four super thin coats are far better than one or two thick and drippy ones!
Step 4- This step is optional, so think of it as extra credit. Brushing on two thin and even coats of water-based poly for wipe-able protection that really goes the extra mile (and provides a glossy oh-so-luxe sheen) can’t hurt if you pick the right stuff. The only two brands that we’ve ever used with unmatched success are these two, so they’re our strong recommendation (other types can yellow or crack over time):
- Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish in “Clear Gloss” (found at any home improvement center)
- Safecoat Acrylacq (which is a low-VOC, non-toxic alternative sold at eco boutiques or online at places like greendepot.com)
We went the extra mile and applied poly to our white table above for a bit of added protection, and we even thinly polyed the chairs since they need to be just as easy to wipe down due to their proximity to food whenever we dine in the sunroom. Thin is definitely the operative word, and again you’ll want to be sure to let the first coat thoroughly dry before going in for the second. Any time you go over semi-wet paint or poly to smooth things out you’ll get terrible drag marks, so work from one side to the other and never go back over things until they’re completely dry.
Step 5- Wait at least a full 72 hours to place objects on your newly painted piece to avoid dents or divots in your finish. If you really want to be on the safe side, we’d recommend waiting five full days. Sometimes factors like humidity and primer/paint/poly thickness can keep things from fully curing up, and you don’t want to get indents from using your newly painted piece too quickly. Waiting this long might take some willpower because you’re dying to sit on/eat on/enjoy your brand new piece, but it’s worth the wait. Promise.
Easy, right? Ok, those were a lot of words, so it might sound complicated. But just take things one step at a time. And remember to breathe. You can totally do it. There’s really no reason to live with wood furniture that’s not exactly the tone or the shade that you’d like. So from painting an old side table a handsome glossy black to giving a scratched up wooden chair a cheerful red tone, it’s definitely a project that you can confidently tackle in an afternoon. Go forth and paint something!
*Oh and it bears noting that if your furniture item is anything other than solid wood or veneered wood (like laminate, melamine, etc) you should visit your local hardware store and ask the paint pro there what they recommend for that surface. There are some great oil-based primers and enamel paints out there (which are changing all the time) so it might be possible to get a great result. The key is really roughing up the surface so it’s less glossy and then priming and painting with the best stuff they have (usually oil or enamel based).Good luck!
Psst- In the market for a quick cabinet painting tutorial? Look no further.
Psssst- Wondering how to paint a brick fireplace? Wonder no more.
Pssssssst- Itching to paint wood paneling? Try this.
Mae says
HELLO to my favorite DIY couple!
i have a burning question. What is the best way to remove paint? I have a headboard that I got for FREE (YAY) but it has paint on it. I tried using an electric sander but it seems like the paint is too thick. What do you think?
YoungHouseLove says
We always do our best to sand it off (have never had to resort to a chemical stripper) but if sanding doesn’t seem to be working we’d suggest heading to your local home improvement store to see if they can recommend a product to help lift off the paint. Just make sure it won’t ruin any new finish you’ll be applying (chemical reactions can ruin a refinishing job!). Good luck!
xo,
s
Kit says
Hi – I have furniture that I’m in the process of repainting. I have already applied Killz Latex based primer. It’s given it a good chalky texture. Is this okay? or should I buy oil-based primer and reapply over the latex primer? I’m painting it indoors and wanted to avoid the oil-based primer smell.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Kit,
If you read back through these comments, many people have had huge issues with water based primer and we definitely recommend only the oil-based stuff so our suggestion would be to sand down what you applied (not all the way down, just a bit to thin it out) and apply oil-based primer. Good luck!
xo,
s
liz says
Hello!
Followed your instructions (oil-based primer, thin coats of latex paint – semigloss) to paint a desk I scored for $5 (yay!). I’ve left it alone for 4 days and the top is still somewhat tacky (not goopy, just a wee bit sticky). In your experience, how long does it typically take for the paint to fully cure?
It’s been hot and humid, so I’m not sure if that’s slowing things down.
Any suggestions for how long I should wait or any options if it remains sticky (other than starting over)? (e.g., would applying polycrylic finish help or make matters worse?)
Thanks so much – you guys are so great :)
YoungHouseLove says
It really has been super humid so we would recommend just giving it another 4 days (or less if it feels cured up before then). Placing things on it before then might leave dents. The polycrilic probably won’t help or hurt since it’s really all about how long it takes the coats of paint that you already applied to cure and thoroughly dry. Thin thin thin coats really is the key! But we’re sure if you give it a few more days it’ll hopefully dry soon enough! Good luck!
xo,
s
Xgirl says
I know this post is older but I just wanted to say THANK YOU for EASY to follow steps! I’ve been online all afternoon and felt so overwhelmed with so much info! You answered my simple question…”What should I apply after painting?”! Thanks again!
Beth says
Hi Guys,
I love your site and just started to tackle a big table painting project. I purchased the materials that you listed above, and all seems to be going well. I have one coat on of the latex paint so far…but I’m thinking I may need 3 or 4 coats, as the color is a deep turqoisy blue. I had my cleaning person over today (who is actually a painter who cleans on the side) and she feels strongly that I should have used a Sherwin Williams Proclassic oil paint for better coverage and for its ‘self leveling’ properties. Also, she strongly urged against using polyacrylic since the table I’m painting will get three times a day use (it’s our dining room table). She recommended minwax quickdry polyurethrane because it would dry harder and be much more durable. Now I don’t know what to do. Do I go and buy the Proclassic and put it over the first latex coat or do I stay the current course? Polyacrylic vs. Polyurethrane in this instance?
Please help!!
Thank you.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Beth,
We’ve definitely used the exact method outlined above many times (on pieces of furniture that we use constantly) without any issue. But there’s probably more than on way to skin a cat when it comes to this so feel free to use your cleaning person’s suggestions if you’d like. The reason we favor the exact polycrylic that we mentioned in this post is because we personally have seen Polyurethane discolor a finish (making your turquoise yellow and look a bit less crisp and more antique). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Monica says
Hi Sherry,
There are SO many comments to this post, you must be a busy woman! My question is a pretty simple one which I am sure you would have already answered but in my searching I can’t seem to find it. So here goes: Is the colour of your table a crisp white or antique white etc? I just know there will be so many options when I get to the paint store and I want my bookshelf to be just like your table. I’m in Australia so probably won’t be able to match your brands/colours exactly but if I can get an idea of what to aim for it would be great :)
Thanks,
Monica.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Monica,
It’s a crisp off-the-shelf white paint in semi-gloss (if you grab a gallon of “white base” paint and don’t have the paint people mix any colorants into it, you’ll probably get the same look). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Heather J says
Thank you for this post! I have a question about primer, do I still need to use primer if I’m not changing the color of the piece? I had honey colored chairs that I spray-pained black about a year ago that really need to be redone now (oops should have done my research first!). I want to redo them with better paint so they look nicer, but they are still mostly black. Do I still use primer or go right for the latex paint? Do I use white primer and then paint them black again or do I get tinted primer? Thank you SO much!
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, primer helps the new paint stick, no matter the color. Good luck!
xo,
s
Natalie says
You guys have totally inspired me & I’ve started my own DIY repainting 2 wood end tables. First time furniture sander/painter! So far, so good. Will send pics when I’m finished :) Keep up the awesome work on your house! Love to Clara! (I have 8 month old twins who were very scared of the power sander today and mommy had to stop!) – Natalie
YoungHouseLove says
Aw good luck! Your twins will probably grow to love that sander someday!
xo,
s
Lee says
Hi! Thanks for your help! I have followed your steps to paint some unfinished twin beds. I have primed and painted two coats of black paint. I am now ready for the polycrylic. Do I sand in between the coats of polycrylic? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
If you apply it thinly and evenly you shouldn’t have to. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Jessica says
Hi! I absolutely love your blog and find inspiration from it everyday! I noticed that you never use spray paint. Is there a specific reason for that? I know some people recommend it for a smooth finish but I was curious what you thought.
Thanks again for everything!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Jessica,
We actually use spray paint for a few select things (like picture frames, ceramic knick-knacks, and metal outdoor furniture) since it sticks really well to those materials (as long as you apply it thinly and evenly). But when it comes to refinishing solid wood furniture it’s definitely not the most durable or seamless result (it can be drippy, permanently tacky/sticky, and it can easily peel when compared to primer and paint applied with a brush or roller). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Jessica says
Thank you! That definitely makes sense and is really helpful!
Brandi says
I am hoping to tackle painting my old wooden cabinets in my Kitchen. We have low ceilings and I’m afraid a white ceiling and white cabinets would be a wash out. Also, it seems like no matter how much I paint, I always end up globbing it up. I’m using a Purdy brush, and Pittsburg paint. Do you have any suggestions?
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, we would suggest a small foam roller for you, which makes it easier to keep from applying too much paint. We also have a tutorial specifically written for painting cabinets (on our Projects page). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Brandi says
Oh also, I’ve noticed that you always recommend a very light coat. How do you suggest best doing thin coats? Does the brush thickness make a difference?
YoungHouseLove says
We always use a high quality 2″ angled brush, but it’s less about the type of brush and more about how much paint you get off of the brush before each stroke (we run the edge of the brush against the can on both sides so it’s not loaded up with too much paint, which leads to a drippy and gross result). But if you’re new to painting furniture we suggest a small foam roller which makes it easier to keep from applying too much paint. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Denise says
Hi
My son has a 13 yr old oak bedroom set, we want to change his look. Would I be crazy to paint the set. The oak makes the room look dated. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
YoungHouseLove says
We think it’s a perfect set to paint! It’ll update it and make it a lot more versatile and crisp!
xo,
s
Meghan says
Thank you so much for posting this tutorial – I have painted furniture in the past with consistently gloppy results. Sanding and primer, who knew? This inspired me to repaint our living room’s Goodwill furniture this weekend, and suddenly our living room looks like grown-ups inhabit it. Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
So glad it turned out so well. Congrats!
xo,
s
Erika K says
Do you have a favorite brand or type of paintbrush that you have found gives you the best results for projects like this?
YoungHouseLove says
We like 2″ angled paint brushed by Purdy. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Lynn says
dear Young House Love
WOW! thank you so much. I just re-did my whole office suite of furniture (7pcs) 2 desk, 2 shelves, printer caddy, a small desk of drawers, ect… amazing. I followed your instructions step by step and it looks like a million bucks for 50 bucks in supplies. I could never have replaced all that furniture for that saving. I never had such luck painting furniture especially those from Ikea… It’s beautiful and I have you two to thank.
YoungHouseLove says
Aw, we’re so happy for you! Enjoy!
xo,
s
Judy J says
Hi – I hate working with oil base anything so I haven’t done it in a while… what do you use to apply the primer and do you have any tips for clean up?
Thanks so much!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Judy,
We use mineral spirits to clean up but we’ve recently learned that cooking oil is a less chemical-ish way to clean things like brushes and hands so we might try that next time. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Gerardo Vargas says
Hi there,
I just got some ventage furniture style and I hate it. I don’t like the scratchie style. I would like to make it look like brand new. Do i need to sand paper the the whole thing? what kind of sand paper do i need?
Thanks.
YoungHouseLove says
Just visit your local home improvement center and see what they recommend when you describe your piece (it really differs depending on your item). Generally 60 grit paper followed by 200 grit paper should do the trick!
xo,
s
Amy says
I thought I read somewhere else (maybe the paint your cabinets post) that you advised against foam rollers and said to stick with either regular rollers or a paintbrush for furniture/cabinets. Have you changed your minds? If so, do you have any pointers on using foam rollers and is there a particular brand you like? Thanks.
YoungHouseLove says
We have widened our minds- let’s put it that way. Countless experts recommend against foam rollers but at the suggestion of a few readers who had luck we tried them out and found that they worked really well as long as you use them slowly and apply thin and even coats. We’re not even sure of the brand we like, we just get the ones that are around 3″ from Home Depot (with the tiny foam roller handle that goes with them). And we use one for oil-based primer and then use the other (they come in packs of two anyways) for the latex paint application. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Amy says
Oh, and if you do recommend foam rollers for painting, do you also recommend using them for the priming?
Nadine says
Hi Guys,
This is a fabulous post – thanks for the clear and step by step instructions.
One quick silly question: how long in between coats and in between each step (e.g. primer, paint, poly) do you wait for the paint to dry? (1 hr? 20 min?)
With many thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
We usually wait a full day between primer and paint if we have the time to spare (otherwise two to four hours should do) and then we wait around an hour or two between thin and even applications of paint. The key to a flawless finish that dries fully and doesn’t remain tacky (which results in dings and dents) is to let each layer fully dry and to put them on very thinly and evenly. Good luck!
xo,
s
Linda says
I found your blog recently and have been gradually getting through it! Thanks for these painting tips! I’m in the process of painting an IKEA wardrobe (very similar to the 2 of yours in your basement). I did one coat of oil based primer and 3 light coats of water based semi-gloss SW paint. I’ve been waiting at least 24 hours between applications. When I look at the furniture from the side, I can see roller marks, what appear to be glossier spots than others. Any ideas as to why? I’m wondering if I’m taking the “thin” coats too literally as I still need to do one more coat. I’m using a foam roller, but I wonder if I should try a new roller for the final coat. Any suggestions?! Congrats on the anniversary BTW and have fun house hunting!
YoungHouseLove says
Yes, we would suggest one more thin coat and even two with a fresh roller. Good for you for going slow and steady- it should be amazing in the end!
xo,
s
Meghan says
Just wondering if it is possible to paint a piece of fake wood furniture.. you know the cheap particle like board with fake wood grain covering?? I know it seems silly to waste time with this but I have a desk I love the size, shape, and storage of and if it could be painted to look better, I’d totally do it! Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
It’s not usually recommended since that plastic-like faux wood material makes the paint easily chip and scratch off since it doesn’t absorb paint like real wood does. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Carmen says
would you recommend the same steps for paintng IKEA furniture? I have a IKEA Malm bed in black/brown which I would like to paint a mocha color.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Carmen,
We actually don’t recommend painting Ikea furniture if it’s not real wood (many of their items are laminate) since it can chip and peel since the material isn’t absorbent like real wood. But here’s a tutorial that you might want to use if you have the guts to try it: http://livingwithlindsay.com/2009/05/how-to-paint-laminate-furniture.html
xo,
s
Virgene Morrison says
I painted my dining table and seem to have followed your steps. I am ready for the poly coat now, can I tint the varathane I like the color but could be a little richer.
Kai says
First, let me say how much you guys rock – because you are still answering questions on a (great) post you did almost 2 years ago.
I just had a quick question about the poly. I bought the same type you suggest and I’m about ready to pull the trigger on topcoating my dining table. Have you ever had a problem with condesation rings on your table? We are definitely not coasters people, so I’d hate my hard work to get ruined.
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Nope! A few thin and even coats of poly should protect against that stuff, just make sure it’s 100% dry before settings things down (the poly’s dry, not the glasses).
xo,
s
lisa i says
Hey!!
I am about to poly a desk Ive painted, should I apply the poly with a paint brush or get the rub on kind? :S
Thanks a billion for your fabulous blog!!!
YoungHouseLove says
We definitely like applying the exact poly that we mention by name in this post with a brush (some other types can leave a yellow tint). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Antonia says
Hi, I’m looking to attach glass mosaics on a painted wood cabinet door. Any ideas on what type of glue to use? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
We would just ask at the home improvement store what they recommend- probably any strong tube of high-strength epoxy would work. Good luck!
xo,
s
Cw says
How would you recommend painting a wood/veneer piece and creating a look that is like peeling paint. I have seen a piece in the current pottery bard catalog, November addition page 118 that I would like to replicate.
Would you have any suggestions?
YoungHouseLove says
That’s called a “distressed finish” so you might be able to google around for a DIY tutorial. Basically it involves painting something one color and then painting it another color and then sanding it a bit to reveal some of the first color. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Joe says
Hi, I’m in the middle of painting some bedroom furniture, most of it is in fact particle board. I’ve already done the primer and the first coat before finding this article. I used a combination of rollers and brushes, and applied it too thick, again not yet having seen this article. I did this outside, in South Florida, late in the day, quite a few gnats landed on it so it will definitely need to be sanded before the second coat. I will use an electric mouse-type sander with 240 grit sandpaper.
I’ve heard that poly will yellow over time, and a friend suggested Shellac, which will never yellow. Your thoughts on this? Thanks so much for the info and help.
YoungHouseLove says
The poly we suggested here by name doesn’t yellow. We’ve used it many many times (years ago and things still look white). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Julie says
Help! I’m trying to paint a bookcase white and didn’t allow enough drying time between my first and second coats of paint. The top of it is so uneven now. I’ve waited 24 hours in between the other coats I’ve put on, but the ridges of my screw up are still showing through. Any advice?? Thanks!!
YoungHouseLove says
We’d recommend gently sanding with 100 grit paper to get things more even and then applying one or two more thin and even coats.
xo,
s
Julie says
Thanks so much! I’ll try it. Do I need to wait a certain amount of time in between sanding and putting on another coat of paint?
YoungHouseLove says
You want to wait until it’s totally dry to sand so it doesn’t peel. Then you can wipe down the dust and follow that with one thin and even coat of paint. Then let that dry for at least four hours and follow it with another thin and even coat. Good luck!
xo,
s
Missy Holden says
Help! I’m painting a couple of chairs and I thought I followed your tutorial exactly, but I don’t have a good result at all! I sanded them first, then applied an oil based primer. It took that primer a long time to dry and now I’m painting with a latex semi gloss. To start with, if I even bump the surface, the paint and the primer come right off right to the bare wood and I’ve got horrible brush strokes. I don’t think I used a good quality of brush for the first coat, so I lightly sanded to knock down all of the gross-ness, and got a Purdy brush, I can still see brush marks and the surface is so uneven. I’m now two top coats into it, and the surface doesn’t seem like it’s adhered to the wood on top of everything else. What should I do?
YoungHouseLove says
It sounds like the item you’re painting might not be solid wood. If it’s smooth and plastic-y like Ikea furniture this tutorial won’t work- it has to be solid wood and not laminate (wood allows primer and paint to grip really well to it). If you’re certain it’s solid wood we would guess there might be something wrong with your primer (it’s old, it has frozen and thawed and therefor isn’t effective, etc). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Missy Holden says
I’m certain the chairs are solid wood, I believe they are varnished oak. I did wonder about the primer, but I just purchased it a couple of days ago. Is there anything I can do to salvage this project???
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Missy,
We would sand everything down very very well (not just rough it up, but sand it down to more bare wood, not varnished wood). Then use newly purchased primer (just in case yours is defective) and follow the steps listed here. You might want to use a foam roller instead of a brush since that was proving to be difficult for ya. Good luck!
xo,
s
Missy Holden says
Thank you so much for the input. I love your blog and you have such good taste and style too. Now I’m off to sand….
YoungHouseLove says
Good luck!!
xo,
s
Amy says
I am refinishing a dresser. There are a few holes where old hardware was, any ideas of how I can fill these in before I paint? The dresser is solid wood but I am painting it black. Thanks!!
YoungHouseLove says
Wood putty should do the trick- just ask around for advice on which type at your local home improvement center!
xo,
s
Julia says
I have (what may be) a silly question, but do you think that the poly coat changes the color at all of your paint? I’m thinking of the way that colors seem to turn out a little brighter in a glossier finish than a matte one… I am refinishing our bedroom dressers in a navy color and I’m worried about them becoming brighter/too shiny but still want the protection of the clear coat. Thanks for any input! (also–do you have any favorite navy paint colors? I am still having problems with the one we purchased being too bright. It doesn’t seem to be a prevalent color in your home, so I understand if you don’t have a lot of suggestions) Thanks again!
Julia
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Julia,
It does make it a bit glossier so it might read a bit deeper, but we don’t think it’ll throw things off too much if you use the poly we recommend here by name (which won’t yellow over time like some others do). As for a good navy paint, Benjamin Moore’s Polished Slate is pretty. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Julia says
Thanks Sherry! I already picked up the kind you recommended so I think I’m good to go. It’s so sweet that you guys take the time to answer everyone’s questions… us lost diy souls need you!
shauna says
For years I have wanted to paint my kitchen table and chairs. My husband has been against it. This weekend I went for it. I borrowed my dads electric sander and sanded down the chairs/table with 60 grit paper. I rubbed down the sanded wood with cheese cloth to remove all partials. Then I spray painted two of the chairs with a semi-gloss black paint. The chairs look horrible! I can see all of the groves from the sanding that I did prior. ahh! I don’t want my husband to say, “i told you so!” what should I do? should I get finer sandpaper and lightly sand it and then repaint? Also, what type of spray paint do you recommend–I need it to be durable (kitchen table w/ 2 and 4 year old), but I don’t like shiny looking black paint. help!
YoungHouseLove says
Yes, sand everything down and start fresh to save those chairs! But we don’t recommend spray paint, and you have to use oil based primer followed by latex paint with a high quality brush. Just follow the steps in this tutorial. Good luck!
xo,
s
shauna says
for the two black chairs, do I need to sand it down to completely remove the black paint? Or can I just sand it lightly? What about the other chairs that I haven’t painted? Do I need to sand it completely? Or just enough for the paint to stick?
YoungHouseLove says
Sanding as completely as possible is best since any paint that you add on top of the spray paint won’t adhere as well as it would if you applied primer to the bare wood- so that’s the goal!
xo,
s
Nancy Poole says
I have a stupid Question…I have always worked with water base and only walls …moving on to furniture…How do you recommend cleaning up after working with oil base?
YoungHouseLove says
We usually use mineral spirits, but we’ve heard that vegetable oil can work (and be a more natural alternative). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Kim says
I just refinished a dresser following your steps but I hate the finish. I did a semi-gloss and now feel that I should have gone with a satin. I have not added the poly yet, so I wanted to know if there is a poly that I can use that will lessen the shine, or will I have to just live with it?
YoungHouseLove says
Just sand things with 100 grit sandpaper and add paint over it with satin paint. Then use a satin poly (the same exact brand and type we recommended except in satin). Otherwise, if you go over the semi-gloss paint you used with satin poly it will still be too glossy for your taste. So you want the paint and the poly to be satin. Good luck!
xo,
s
Brittany says
I want to paint a wooden mirror I have that is currently a goldy-brown faux finish and has some detailed carving. Can I just use a high gloss white spray paint? It was already in my house when I bought it and I think if I paint it a glossy white it will look more updated and look better against the chocolate brown wall it is on. Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Yes, you might want to use spray primer (like Kilz) before the spray paint to get it to stick. Good luck!
xo,
s
Brittany says
Great :) Thanks Sherry!
Barbara says
I want to paint a baby size dresser but the top of the dresser has a laminate appearing surface. It is meant to protect the top from scratches. Do I need to sand the top or can I prime it with the oil base primer and then use the latex paint over that?
Thanks,
Barbara
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Barbara,
Laminate is a bit less straightforward to paint than wood (it doesn’t have that absorption and adhesion that wood has) but this tutorial is one of the best we’ve found: http://livingwithlindsay.com/2009/05/how-to-paint-laminate-furniture.html
Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Ashley says
I have an oak wood table that I inherited from my parents. I would really like to paint it white to give it more of a modern look; however, every few years my dad told me that he would add another coat of poly just to make sure it was really sealed. Will I be able to sand down these coats of poly or should I just paint over top?
THANKS!
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yes- you have to sand down that poly (at least rough it up as much as possible) and then use oil-based primer or you won’t get good adhesion. Hope it helps!
xo,
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Renee says
Speaking of poly, I’m in a bit of a “poly-panic!” I followed your directions for sanding, priming and painting my oak dining table and chairs black and it looked amazing, like Pottery Barn amazing. However I have applied the first coat of poly and it looks like a piece of shiny black particle board furniture from the 90’s, grainy and all! Can I sand it down a bit to buff out some of the shine without losing wipeability?
YoungHouseLove says
Absolutely! We’d recommend adding a few more coats (thin and even while letting each one dry thoroughly) and then sanding things down with very high grit paper so you still have the durability but the graininess is smoothed out and eliminated. Good luck!
xo,
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Anna says
We just built a bed from a design on knock off wood. We thought we should stain it at first, but I’m not liking the color we stained it at all. So I’m now thinking paint. Grey perhaps? Do you have a recommendation for a grey color on a bed?
YoungHouseLove says
We love Benjamin Moore’s Sleigh Bells. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Anna says
Thanks so much! It helps a lot!