Update: We have a much newer cabinet-painting post with more photos, details, and even a video for you here.
If you can paint a wall (and even if you can’t) you can paint your kitchen cabinets. There are just a few tried and true rules when attempting this project, so if you follow the simple steps outlined below it’ll be pretty hard to screw things up. And although you’ve all seen our newly renovated kitchen, we actually painted our previous 50-year-old knotty pine cabinets right after we moved in (to tide us over until we had the funds to replace them altogether). Check out the dark and dingy kitchen that we inherited with the house:
And the refreshing “after” thanks to only a few hours of prepping and painting:
So how did we do it? Easy peasy.
Step 1: Figure out what you want. Bring home paint swatches and select the perfect palette, and if you’re planning to replace your hardware, purchase some before you move on to the next step. Because most old hardware is a different size than newer hardware (the holes are further apart or closer together), it’s important to know if your new door and drawer bling is spaced differently than your current hardware before you begin. Then it’s nice to wash everything down with a little soap and water to cut the grease and the spills that have built up on the doors and drawers over the years. Nothin’ like a little sponge bath to get you in the mood to makeover your kitchen…
Step 2: Take it off, baby. Now it’s time to remove all of your hardware and your hinges (regardless of whether you’ll be reusing it or replacing it- and it helps to store everything in a big ziplock bag so you’re never short a screw). Of course by removing the hinges you’ll be removing all the doors, so finding a place that you can lay out a big fabric or plastic drop cloth (which are about $2 from Home Depot or Lowe’s) is a good idea. Once you have your drop cloth in place, lay out all your cabinet doors and drawers so you can paint them all together in one convenient spot (and have full access to the frames of the cabinets in the kitchen).
Step 3: Fill ‘er up. Then if you’re replacing your hardware with something that won’t fit the existing holes in your doors and drawers, you’ll want to pick up some wood filler (it’s around $6 a tube, which is all ya need) and fill those existing hardware holes in all of the doors and drawers. There are many different colors of wood fill, but since you’re painting your cabinets, matching the tone isn’t really a big deal (although it can’t hurt to grab the one that most closely resembles the color of your current cabinets).
Step 4: Get sandy. The sanding process isn’t always necessary (for example, our cabinets weren’t glossy so we skipped it and went straight to priming) but for some people with super shiny cabinets (aka: lots of polyurethane) it can’t hurt to run an electric sander over everything- or take a bit more time to hand sand things- with fine grit paper to rough everything up for maximum paint stickage. Not sure if yours need to be sanded? If they feel matte like a cutting board (a little absorbent) then they shouldn’t need it, but if they feel shiny like a laminated piece of paper or a glossy credit card then sanding is your best bet. Note: lead paint is a serious health risk when sanding, so if you have an older home with already-painted cabinets that look decades old it’s worth testing for lead with a $6 lead test kit from Home Depot. Safety first!
Step 5: It’s prime time. Due to all the grease and even just the wood stain that often coats kitchen cabinets, it’s über important to get down and dirty with oil-based primer (even if the water-based equivalent claims that it works just as well on cabinet surfaces, we’ve seen stains seep right through that stuff, so oil-based is the better-safe-than-sorry alternative). One coat of primer applied with a decent quality roller should do the trick (then just use a brush to get into those tigher spaces and the grooves in the doors). We prefer wool or polyester rollers (Purdy’s a great brand) over foam ones as we’ve found that they rile up the paint and cause bubbles. Oh and it doesn’t matter if you can still see the wood tone underneath after one coat, the primer’s main job is to make your cabinets sticky and the paint will do the rest. You’ll probably want to snag an extra brush just for priming since they’re usually pretty messed up afterwords (it’s best to toss it or save it for other priming projects and use a pristine new one for painting). And ditto with the roller. We usually don’t even try washing the oil-based paint out of it- and prefer to replace it with a fresh new one before painting for a seamless result (reused rollers and brushes can often compromise the smooth finish that you’re going for when it comes to your cabinets).
Step 6: Get your paint on. You’re in the home stretch, so just two coats of latex paint (in a semi gloss finish for easy wipe-ability) are next on the agenda. You’ll definitely want to wait a few hours after applying primer, but I actually primed and painted my cabinets (two coats!) all in the same day. When it comes to applying the paint, a high quality wool or polyester roller makes for the sleekest application. A mini foam roller can also help since it’s smaller and easy to control. You’ll also probably need to use a brush sparingly, just to get into those little cracks and crevices that your roller can’t reach. Do yourself a favor by buying an angle-tipped brush as opposed to a flat-tipped one- they make staying in the lines a lot easier.
Note: We didn’t prime or paint the inside of the doors, but our approach would be to prime/paint them first and then wait five days and turn them over and prime/paint the outside (that way if anything got a bit imperfect after being flipped face down, it would be on the inside- an therefore less noticeable).
Step 7: Wait for it. After two coats of latex paint you now have to practice patience. Most experts advise waiting at least three days to rehang or begin using your doors and drawers (especially since the rehanging process involves lots of holding and pressing and drilling which can muck up anything that’s not 100% dry). We actually advise waiting five days if ya can (it beats doing the whole thing all over again and guarantees a totally seamless finish even in high humidity).
Step 8: Hang in there. Then all you have to do is rehang your doors (either using your existing hinges or new ones), slip in your drawers, and add your hardware. If the hardware is new, take time to measure twice before you drill to avoid any annoying mistakes that will make you want to putty and repaint, which never looks as good as the flawless finish that you get the first time around. John actually took his sweet time drilling all of our holes for the new hardware (to the tune of about two hours) but it was well worth the assurance that everything was perfectly centered and right where it should be. In this case slow and steady wins the race.
*Oh and it bears noting that if your cabinets are anything but solid wood (laminate, veneered, etc) you should definitely take off a door or a drawer and bring it with you to your local hardware store and ask the paint pro there what they recommend. There are some great oil-based primers and enamel paints out there so it might be possible to get a semi-durable finish (although none as long-lasting as solid wood paint jobs). The key is really roughing up the surface so it’s less glossy and then priming and painting with the best stuff they have (usually oil or enamel based). Oh and don’t forget to let everything dry for a while so things can cure up and get super durable for the long haul.
So that about does it for our cabinet painting and refinishing tutorial. Of course Step 9 is to invite all of your friends over for celebratory margaritas or to do the happy dance every time you walk into your amazing new space. We hope this will help you completely transform your kitch on a dime and in a flash. And just in case you need a few more before & after pictures to convince you, here are two clients of ours that we helped transform their rooms with painted cabinets:
Here’s Kim’s crazy blue kitchen that she inherited with her home:
And here’s her two-tone masterpiece after a quick paint makeover (we suggested slightly different colors for her upper and lower cabinets):
And here’s Carla’s kitchen before she came to us for help:
And here it is after we encouraged her to paint her cabinets a crisp glossy white tone (along with her dining room chairs) while the dining table went black to mimic the backsplash:
Amazing what a little paint can do, eh? And if they can do it you can to! So if you have a spare weekend or even a few week nights you’ll be well on your way to a totally new room. Happy painting…
In need of a furniture painting tutorial? Fret not, we’ve gotcha covered.
Update: We have a much newer cabinet-painting post with more photos, details, and even a video for you here.
Jenne says
HI, I love your sight. I am going to start on my kitchen next weekend and was wondering if I could have some quick advice please? I really want ot paint BM decorators white on my cabinets. We have red brick between the cabinets. We have a very light grey counters and light grey paint above the cabinets. Do you think the dec. white would be ok? I saw the painting brick section, but didnt want to tackle too much. Do you have an paint color idea for the wall area above are cabinets if we painted them white? Or do you think I need to do another color all together since the countertops are light grey? Are floor in ugly white, grey linoleum. Hopefully someday to be replaced with hardwoods or laminate. Thanks and I really appreciate any advice. Jenne
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, if you want our honest advice it would be to go with the Decorators White on the cabinets and then paint the brick backsplash between the cabinets (which is easier than painting cabinets!) in the same color that you’ll do the wall (what about a nice slate blue since the counters are light gray?). That would look awesome and Benjamin Moore makes a lovely color called Quiet Moments. It’ll look like a whole new room. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Jenne says
S,
Thankyou and yes, I really do want honest advice. The Quiet Moments is pretty. Do you think it will be too cold feeling though with blue, grey and white? It sounds like I need to stay away from the tans, correct? For some reason, painting the brick sounds ALOT scarier than painting the cabinets. I have before pictures and will take afters. I will be sure and show you. Jenne
YoungHouseLove says
We definitely think a nice cool gray-blue (like Quiet Moments) will look great with gray and white in your kitch (the white cabinets will keep things nice and light so it won’t look dreary). And you’re right to avoid tans with a gray counter as cool colors will generally complement it much more. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Honey says
Hi, I’ve never painted cabinets before, is it possible to use another kind of paint than the semi-gloss? I don’t want our cabinets to look as shiny like they’ve just been painted… is that possible? I understand they’re easier to wipe down etc, I just don’t like the shine.. I’m looking more for a matte finish? What about a flat enamel? One that can be wiped down, yet no gloss.. Has anyone used paint other than semi gloss?
Thanks!
Honey
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Honey,
Sure thing, you can use flat or even eggshell for a less shiny finish.
xo,
s
leila says
I love your site! Genius! What is the best way to deal with peeling paint on your cabinets. How do you get it ready for re-painting? My lazy question is whether you can just paint the areas that have peeled off.
YoungHouseLove says
So sorry but it takes a lot of prep before painting peeling cabinets! First sand things down and then use oil-based primer followed by two or three coats of latex paint over all the cabinets. Any shortcuts will actually be long cuts because they’ll look so subpar you’ll have to start over. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Connie says
I am thinking about painting our cabinets white- Would you suggest also painting the insides of cabinets?
YoungHouseLove says
That’s totally personal preference. We didn’t with ours because we knew down the one we would replace them but for the long term the extra effort might be worth it. It’s definitely your call. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
martha says
Well after reading your suggestions, I am getting a little courage to try to do it myself, will see how it works since I have a baby. Do you think a paint that it is for child proof for clean up will work on the cabinets?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Martha,
Any semi-gloss latex paint will be super wipe-able and totally childproof. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Leigh says
What brand of white paint would you suggest? Is there some better than others?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Leigh,
We like Benjamin Moore’s Decorators White in semi-gloss for cabinets and trim. It’s warm and inviting yet still clean and white without being too stark. And the quality can’t be beat. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Rose Marie says
Another brand of paint that works great is Miller’s “acrinamel”. I used it a few years ago to paint my kitchen cabinets and a homemade wood kitchen for my children. It holds up very well and is wipe-able. I recommend the semi-gloss. I am now in a different home and have cabinets exactly like Carla’s (pictured above). There are way more cabinets in our house now compared to the old one, but I think I have been inspired to go for it. We have these black granite counters. I was thinking of painting the cabinets a slightly warmer white (as opposed to just white). What do you think?
YoungHouseLove says
That sounds lovely! A warm white will still feel open and crisp without being too stark against the black counters. Go for it! And good luck!
xo,
s
crystal says
What are your thoughts about cabinetry throughout a home, should the colors match or can you have two diferent vibes going on? I current have orangey oak cabinetry the bathrooms and kitchen and I want to paint the bathroom cabinets a deep brown shade and make it a bit more modern. We are going to be putting our house on the market in the next months and I am afraid to paint the kitchen cabinets and affect the resale, but I do want to update those in the bathrooms. Would it look really weird?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Crystal,
You definitely don’t have to have matching cabinetry throughout your home, so if a nice deep brown coat of paint will update the bathroom cabinets, definitely go for it!
xo,
s
Ann says
Hi– LOVE the cabinet makeovers and good advice. I am looking to repaint kitchen cabs– right now they are VERY glossy– like they are coated with 10 coats of poly or something. But the good news is they are super-clean. I am planning to have my painter spray on the primer and then paint. I want a creamy white that is not shiny/glossy- maybe an eggshell? Also the cabs have a slightly carved-looking molding around the doors that I’d like to highlight with some kind of antiquing glaze… can I do this without the cabinets looking “dirty”? Do I need to also seal on top of this with poly or some kind of sealer? Also I am not sure if I should stick with white appliances or Stainless….countertops will be butcherblock… Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Ann,
I would definitely recommend that the cabinets be sanded before your painter comes in and sprays anything, even primer. Primer and paint can slide right off cabinets that are too glossy, or worse yet peel and bubble days after he leaves. The agony! It’s much better to be safe than sorry so run a mouse sander over all the cabinets (or get your painter to lend a hand with that) and then let him get to spraying that primer and paint on. As for the perfect white that’s not too shiny, try Benjamin Moore’s Decorators White in eggshell (it will be noticeable less wipe-able than semi-gloss though, so be warned that’s the trade off for less sheen).
Then as for the antiquing glaze, just follow the directions on the can that you select (it may or may not call for a protective covering to seal it). As for the appliances, that’s personal preference. We went with stainless for a modern look with our white cabinets, but we’ve seen many white kitchens with white appliances that are equally fetching. The stainless might add a nice industrial touch to set off the rustic butcherblock counters (along with the antiqued glaze that you’ll be adding) for a chic and balanced look, so we’re leaning towards that solution… but it’s really your call. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Sarah says
I love the white cabinets with the stainless steel appliances! We have white appliances. I’m assuming white cabinets AND white appliances would be a bit much – do you have any suggestions of other colors to paint the cabinets (to be appropriate with white appliaces)? Thank You!
YoungHouseLove says
We actually LOVE the look of white cabinets with white appliances. It really looks seamless and expansive so the eye doesn’t go right to the appliances and instead goes around the room and rests on more decorative items. As long as there’s some color on the walls (and the counters and floors as a bonus) the room wil never look stark. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
deborah says
hi – i just painted cabinets in kitchen this weekend. i went from stained wood to white. how about a poly finish to protect the white from chipping/denting? spray or brush on?
thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Deborah,
Assuming you used oil-based primer and followed that with two coats of latex paint in a wipeable semi-gloss finish, we actually would not recommend any poly (spray or brush-on) as it can yellow the finish of your white cabinets and it’s completely unnecessary (and might even cause the cabinets to wear in a less durable way). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
deborah says
oh my gosh – your response was to fast!! thanks much. i actually didn’t use a semi-gloss, went more with a satin flatter finish. should i do a last coat of semi? i was concerned about making them shiny…they’re not the best-looking cabinets in the world!
i did use BIN oil based primer…and then 2 coats of latex paint. i just don’t want them to ding up too badly. thanks again!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Deborah,
It sounds like your method was flawless! Just be sure to let them dry a looong time (add a day when in doubt, we let ours cure for an entire week) and they’ll definitely not get dinged up for at least a decade. Really, it will surprise you how great that oil-based primer is for keeping everything looking perfect for the long haul. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Kitchen Cabinets Designer says
Thanks for the Step by Step instructions. Refinishing is great for when you are on a budget and don’t want to remodel the entire room.
Jessica says
I love the color used on the old pine cabinets. I just bought my first home and in the kitchen are the same horrible pine cabinets; they will definitely be painted. I was wondering if you know the color and brand of the paint used in the photograph? Also, I have white appliances do you think that would go with the off white cabinets you have above?
Thanks!
Jessica
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Jessica,
Try Benjamin Moore’s Decorators White for an extremely similar look (which will look amazing with white appliances- so clean and seamless and expansive). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Kevin Costello says
OK, so we need your help (to save our marriage) – we’re moving into a 45 yr old home – the orig brown wood cabinets are a mess – 45 yrs of dirt & grime – and almost like a waxy substance on them. The rest of the kitchen is painted white, and also quite grimy and greasy.
My plan is to:
1. scrub everything down with TSP
2. then use a deglosser on the cabinets and trim
3. then sand the cabinets & trim
4. Use Kilz oil-based primer on everything: – ceiling, walls, cabinets, trim
5. paint the cabinets with 2 coats semi-gloss
6. wait five days and then paint the walls with 1 coat semi gloss
My wife thinks this is overkill
Do I need to use TSP?
Do I need deglosser?
Can I use the same primer on the walls that I use on the cabinets?
Love this site – thanks.
Kevin
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Kevin,
Better safe than sorry is always our motto so your method sounds positively foolproof! We would probably just sand things down, wipe with a moist rag (maybe some soap to degrease) and get to priming, but there’s more than one way to skin a cat and your approach sounds like it’s virtually perfect. Good luck with everything!
xo,
s
Angela says
Hi, I’ve been attempting to re-paint some kitchen cabinets and have had major issues…the paint on the doors was crackled, so I had to strip and sand. I attempted to roll on the primer but it stood up and never smoothed out, so had to sand again. Thought maybe the prime was just too thick to roll, so I tried rolling on my actual paint and that didn’t work either. Still stood up. Had to go over it with a brush just to make it somewhat smooth. But I hate brushstrokes. Would much rather be able to roll. Please tell me what miracle roller you found that worked. I’ve tried a Wooster 3/8″ polyester roller and (although I knew it wouldn’t be good) a high density foam roller-you’re right,very bubbly.
Very tired of sanding!!!
Angela
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Angela,
We like Purdy ones from Home Depot, but I’m not sure it’s a roller issue with you. It might just be your cabinets giving you some trouble. Either way we hope it helps!
xo,
s
Liz says
Hi,
Just saw your site and was impressed with all the info you give out. I’m planning to repaint my cabinets this weekend, but I’m not sure what color I should do them. I have black appliances and I want the kitchen colors to be black and red, but i dont want the red to be overdone. I was thinking of white cabinets but I’m not sure what it will look like. What do you think? Any ideas?
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Liz,
Black and red and white is a fun retro color scheme that should look great! Just remember to apply a bunch of coats of the red paint to truly capture a deep tone that looks flawless (our front door took five coats but it was so worth it). As for the cabinets, Benjamin Moore’s Decorators White should be perfect with those black appliances and the red accent color. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Elle says
OK, so I’m back with yet another question: If I were to paint our kitchen cabinets (which are currently just simple light maple cabinets with very little sheen), how long could I expect the paint to last before it began peeling, chipping, etc.? I also noticed that when reading comments you posted to others, you mentioned something about NOT applying poly after painting. Wouldn’t skipping this step compromise the longevity of the paint job?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Elle,
If you use the method outlined here you should have no problem with painting and chipping in over a decade (unless you have children throwing china at them or something equally dramatic). Our sister in law painted hers over 12 years ago and they still look as good as new (without any poly after painting). The reason we don’t suggest poly is that it actually can compromise your finish by causing it to yellow and even bubble or peel early on, so sticking with the primer followed by paint (which is the method the pros use if they refinish your cabinets for you) will have the best, long-lasting effect. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
mark says
hi there,
a friendly coworker of mine who’s an avid fan of your site shared a link to you blog with me, and am i glad she did! what a great design and DIY resource! i’m getting ready to close on a new house by the end of month and looking forward to all the fun projects on the way, including… wait for it… painting the old pine kitchen cabinets while saving up to renovate the room. so thanks for all the useful tips!
i’m still thinking about what colors to paint all of the different rooms. any suggestions on useful links or resources? thanks!
MARK
(oh, and i like the small, almost inconspicuous smiley face on the bottom of each page…) =)
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Mark,
So glad you found us! Here’s a link to a roundup of some of our favorite paint colors to help simplify things for you:
https://www.younghouselove.com/2009/06/email-answer-picking-the-perfect-paint-color/
Good luck!
xo,
s
Elle says
Thanks a bunch Sherry! One more thing. Since my cabinets are not super shiny/glossy (they are just smooth and very slightly shiny) do you think I need to sand them down first before priming?
YoungHouseLove says
Nope, you can go right to priming! Good luck…
xo,
s
Katie says
Hey, absolutely love this site!! My cabs are about 15 years old and have spots of shiney and spots where the shine is gone. Obviously I’m going to have to sand them but my question is how much? Should I do just a light sanding where there is still some shine finish left, or take it down all the way to the wood? I have heard if you don’t sand properly it can muck up and make sticky little balls…I’m nervous…help..lol =) katie
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Katie,
When in doubt, sand thoroughly. We would recommend trying to get a consistent look for all of your cabinets (so they’re not shiny at all) before getting to priming and painting so you’re sure to have a nice seamless finished product. Usually whatever you start with reflects what you’ll finish with, so starting with an even finish should lead to an even end product. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
cassie says
Our cabinets are original to our 60 year old house, and are white metal. They are completely functional and in decent shape, but not very attractive. We are still 3+ years away from a kitchen remodel (we just moved in and have plans to majorly expand), so I have to live with them for awhile. Suggestions on improving them?
Also, I have heard from numerous people that our cabinets are actually a sought-after item for retro kitchens, and so we could potentially sell them for decent cash on ebay. Is this reason enough to not mess with them at all?
Thanks!
Cassie
Jeannette says
Hi,
Just found this post. I’m thinking about painting the cabinets when we get our new house, and it feels to me like this tutorial does good at explaining what to do with the fronts of the doors, but how do I add to the process to paint the backs of the doors and the cabinet frame and inside of the cabinets? Like should I paint the backs first, then the fronts? how long to wait before flipping? With the outside of the frames being shiny and the inside of the cabs not, is there a difference in the prep work for the interior of the cabs versus the exterior? Stuff like that. Any insight?
THANKS!
I LOVE YOUR SITE!
YoungHouseLove says
We actually only painted the fronts of the cabinets (so we never turned them over) but if we were going to paint the inside as well we would recommend doing that two or even three full days later so you don’t have the freshly painted side lying on a tarp getting indentations or smears. You want it to really cure up and get a nice hard finish. Starting with the insides of the cabinet doors is also recommended so if you do turn them over a few days later and they get a few imperfections they won’t be on the outside. Hope it helps! We promise the extra effort will be worth the wait!
Oh and as for the different sheens (shinier on the front, flat on the inside) gently sanding the fronts before priming should get them to the same place so everything looks seamless. Good luck!
xo,
s
Panel Clips says
Thanks for sharing these pictures and your thoughts about this type of project. I especially like the two-tone idea and pictures, this gives the kitchen a little more character and breaks on the monotony that can happen, especially if you have a lot of cabinet space.
Holly says
Hey guys! Thanks so so so much for all of the suggestions, but one issue that no one else seems to be having is the primer not covering the wood grain!
We have those gross builder grade cheapy-cheapo oak cabinets. We are doing a test run on the bathroom vanity before we tackle the kitchen, and after a light sanding and two coats of primer the wood grain is still showing through! The cabinets we have look similar to Carla’s “before” so we were wondering if she had the same issue. Another tutorial I found (though I can’t remember where it is now) mentioned putting a layer of wood putty on the doors to cover the grain. Their steps went like:
1. sand
2. prime
3. sand
4. prime
5. sand
6. wood putty layer
7. sand
8. prime
9. sand
10. 2 thin layers of paint
11. prime
12. poly coat
Um yikes, right?? The cabinets did look great in the pictures when they were done, but there has to be an easier way!! Have you heard of anyone having this same issue? Any advice to offer?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Holly,
Often times primer doesn’t cover all the wood grain on something (just one thing coat creates a sticky surface for paint which actually does most of the coverage) so you might find that once you move on to paint you don’t see the wood grain any more. We certainly still saw the wood grain when we primed our insanely knotty cabinets but two coats of latex paint later and it was totally invisible. Of course you’re using oil-based primer, right? That’s definitely key. Anyway, hope it helps! Don’t be afraid to go to paint once you have one or two coats of primer in place. It’s always streaky and semi-see-through. The paint is actually the opaque part. Primer just helps the paint stick. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Holly says
Oh man that is good to hear! We are using the oil based Zinsser primer (the paint guy at HD recommended it over Kilz.) It’s good to know that there is still hope.
One other thing, we also bought the Purdy brand wool rollers you recommended but they left a very rough finish with the primer. I don’t know if there is another roller, but there was only one type of Purdy roller stocked so I am assuming we got the right one. The finish came out very bumpy and is requiring quite a bit of sanding to smooth out the bumps. Is that normal? Or maybe HD didn’t have the right type of roller in stock? I don’t want to keep using this type of roller for the final paint if the bumpiness is not normal. Thoughts?
YoungHouseLove says
Eeeks! It sounds like you got the wrong roller for sure. You want something without a lot of tooth (yours sounds extra fluffy if your finish is bumpy, like it’s made for rough surfaces). You want one that says it’s “for smooth surfaces.” I would definitely ask the paint guy who helped you pick the primer to point out a high quality roller made for smooth surfaces and just go with whatever he recommends, regardless of the brand (since Purdy makes them for painting all sorts of surfaces so just picking by brand won’t do the trick). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Diane Powers says
I need Benjamin Moore cream color paint suggestions to match San Cecilia granite countertops. There are a lot of creams out there!!!
YoungHouseLove says
Try BM’s Mohair, Muslin or Moccasin. All lovely and soft. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Lisa says
I want to paint our “apartment oak” cabinets white, and am trying to convince my husband that it’ll make a huge difference in our tiny kitchen (especially matched with sunny Hawthorne Yellow walls!!). Really random question…do you think we need to take everything out of our cabinets before we paint? We’re not painting the shelves, just the frames. Let me know what you think!
Thanks!!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Lisa,
We’ve found that you can be as through as you’d like, so if you want to totally clean out your cabinets you can, but if you want to just remove anything that might get in the way of the roller or the brush that works too. Hope it helps.
xo,
s
shahab says
Just wondering what the 2 colors are for the 2 tone kitchen (Kim’s)? That kitchen looks real nice.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Shahab,
You can find that info and all the details right here: https://www.younghouselove.com/2008/10/kims-color-conundrum-solved/
Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Cris says
You have such a wonderful blog here! I have been reading it for a little while now, but this is my first post. Unfortunately, it isn’t just to tell you how wonderful you are, but to also beg for some advice from you or other readers.
Sorry this is so long, but I’m desperate here. I’m afraid I’ve messed my cabinets up…. I sanded them down where it was mainly just the wood showing, but there were some places where the stain could still be seen faintly. I then used Kilz2 latex primer, and then two layers of Behr’s latex paint. This was about a month ago, and it is still tacky. Whenever I pick up something that has been sitting on it for a while, you can hear it sticking as I pick it up. The paint has actually been pulled up in a couple of places. I live in a very humid area, and I cook a lot, so I wondered if that may have resulted in the long-lasting tacky feeling. Then, I read online that it may be because I painted it on too thick or did not wait long enough between coats. I don’t know.
I have to do it again, I just want to make sure that I do things right this time. Should I sand it down all the way to the wood before doing anything else to it? Do you think that if I use the Kilz Original primer (oil-based), that would make the difference? Or could I stick with what I have, the Kilz2, and just be more careful with the latex paint to do thin layers? Or should I completely switch over to use oil-based primer oil-based paint? I have read that it provides a much harder finish.
I am new to this DIY thing, and I just feel so unsure of myself after messing this up. I would really appreciate any and all advice here…. Thank you!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Cris,
Yup, it sounds like you painted things too thickly and you didn’t wait for each coat to dry. Another major no-no we noticed is that you used Kilz2 latex primer. We ONLY recommend oil-based primer as it’s less apt to stay tacky for weeks and also makes the cabinets infinitely more durable in the long-term (no more peeling). We would definitely recommend sanding things down as much as possible and using the oil-based primer very thinly (apply one thin and even coat). Then follow that with two paper thin coats of latex paint. You literally want it to go on as thin as an eggshell. And you want everything to dry thoroughly before moving on to the next coat. If you go with oil-based paint that is notorious for taking weeks to dry, which is why we recommend the latex (which still takes at least a week to really cure up but looks great if you apply it thinly and have patience before loading up your cabinets and banging them around until everything’s dry). Oil-based paint can take up to a month and even longer to cure! Hope it helps…
xo,
s
Cris says
Thanks. :) I am going to stick with the Behr latex paint in really thin layers, and just get the oil-based primer for this next attempt. This is what I was thinking I’d do, but I really wanted (needed?!?) to hear another opinion first before I could get up the courage to try again. Thanks a bunch!
YoungHouseLove says
Good luck! Here’s hoping the second time’s the charm!
xo,
s
Valerie Simonton says
Sherry,
Love your house makeover. Great taste you and you husband have!
I do want to say here in California oil based paint is not sold. All primer and paint sold here is water based. I’m about to paint my ’50s era knotty pine kitchen cabinets, and have been reading lots of how-to’s on the subject. I could probably get some oil paint from out of state, but that would be defeating “going green.” Everything I’ve read says latex primer can be used with great success if done correctly. Using a roller is not recommended, as it will leave stipple marks in latex. There are paint conditioners you can add to paint to help it flow better, as to minimize brush strokes.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Valerie,
Wow. Go California! That’s major. We suggest oil-based primer (not paint, we love latex paint) for a very simple reason: it’s what we’ve used time and time again with success (no such luck with latex primer, which we’ve tried more than once since of course we’d love less fumes and easier clean-up). Because we only endorse products, materials, and tutorials that we’ve actually implemented, that’s why we stick so firmly to the oil-based-primer-with-latex-paint method. Also, if you scroll up and read many of the 300+ comments on this very post you’ll see lots of people who used water or latex based primer and had issues with it peeling and feeling overly gooey and tacky for months so you’re definitely onto something to mention using conditioners and avoiding a roller to keep things smooth. We would definitely encourage you to follow the tutorials that you’ve found (the ones that detail how to use latex-based primer) since we’re sure it’s possible with the right precautions, tools and methods (we just haven’t quite gotten there ourselves)! We’re all about going green whenever we can (we compost, recycle, shop thrift stores, use non-toxic cleaning products and even have a rain barrel) but because we’ve never had success using latex-based primer we’re not quite ready to endorse it for the world to see. But products get better every day, so here’s hoping the newer formulas totally blow us away so we’re singing their praises in no time!
xo,
s
Tiffini Satterlee says
Getting ready to paint my cabinets (as well as the kitchen itself, along with removing some pretty horrible border) – I would REALLY love to see an article on creative backsplashes. I would like to just paint it, but considering the fake brick, quarter round molding, and copper tiles that all have to be ripped out, I may not have the smoothest surface to work with.
I’m getting excited over backsplashes – guess I’m all grown up now…
Cynthia says
Hi, Guys!
Love your blog. Do you know what colors your readers used on the cabinets in these two examples? My husband and I are househunting but a need to update the kitchen is a theme in everything we’ve looked at. I like both of these color options.
Thanks!
Cynthia
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Cynthia,
The white cabinets on the bottom of the post are Valspar’s Ultra White and the cabinets that were once royal blue were painted Glidden’s Stonington Beige (the uppers) and Glidden’s La Chateau (the lowers). You can click the links above each photo to read more about each transformation!
xo,
s
Alicia says
Hi guys!
Thanks to your blog and inspirational makeovers, my husband and I have painted several old furniture pieces to bring them back to life. This was our first DIY project and we followed your tips closely. Now we’re ready to move on to our interior walls, ceilings, and stained wood trim. Should we follow the same steps (oil-based primer and two coats of latex paint)? I read somewhere about using acrylic primers for interior walls.
Love your blog. I read it every day. Thank you!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Alicia,
We actually don’t think primer is necessary at all on interior walls unless you’re going from a very dark shade (like blood red) to a very light one (like cream) and need a nice clean slate of coverage. Otherwise, just use two thin and even coats of latex paint (we like flat paint for all rooms except for the kitchen and the bathrooms which we suggest as semi-gloss instead). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Linda says
Hey there! I’m back with another question. Or really, I’m just in need of some assurance.
I’m following your tutorial for painting my kitchen cabinets. So far I’ve sanded them down and wiped away all the dust.
Tonight, I started to prime the drawer fronts with oil-based primer on a roller. Is it supposed to look a little uneven? It’s not splotchy or anything…but it doesn’t look smooth like regular paint would. It freaked me out. Will the texture the primer has made show through the 2 layers of latex paint??? I still plan on using a paint sprayer for the latex paint application.
And how do you apply a thin layer of primer or paint? This oil-based stuff is so thick I have no idea on how to gauge if I’m using enough or too much.
I started out super confident and now I’m just uber insecure. I’m scared I’m going to mess this up!!! Am I freaking out for no good reason?? =)
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yeah- primer is splotchy and uneven and gross looking! If you ever get a thin and even looking coat of primer on anything I’ll eat my socks. It’s just the nature of the sticky grainy primer to go on extremely irregularly but two thin and even coats of paint completely smooth things out for a seamless finished product. And the grainy tacky texture is great, it’s the reason the paint will stick. So no worries. All that latex will seep gently into the grooves and latch onto the sticky surface of the primer for a totally smooth & finished result. And as for how much primer you put on, just one coat as thin and even as you can manage is all it takes (of course it won’t look thin and even at all, but definitely try not to gob it on). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Janie says
I just had my pine kitchen cabinets painted in Benjamin Moore’s 0C-92 (Mannequin Cream). I have a creamy stone backsplash and tan/cream laminate countertop.
The problem is that my refrigerator, dishwasher, and stove are in white — though the stove does have a black front. When I was selecting the cabinet colour, I concentrated mainly on whether the colour would work with the backsplash and countertop, and unfortunately, did not consider the white appliances. Now, I find that the appliances do not work well at all with the paint.
It is a galley kitchen with Benjamin Moore’s CC-184 (Bed and Breakfast) walls, with the floor a ceramic (New Mexico look, which includes a tiny bit of black and works well with paint colour). The table and chairs are black.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank you.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Janie,
All is not lost! If you check out our House Tour tab under the header you’ll see that many of our rooms have shades of cream and white happily coexisting, so instead of repainting your cabinets right away we would encourage you to add white accessories to more seamlessly tie in those white appliances. You’ll be amazed how hanging a white dishtowel around, bringing in some lovely white pottery for a windowsill and a big white fruit bowl for the counter will instantly make all the white appliances make sense with those creamy cabinets and backsplash. And the more white you can add, the more intentional and balanced everything will look- even in art, window treatments, and other accessories like a big white-faced clock, etc. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Janie says
Your feedback was so helpful, and then, more great ideas after viewing your house tour.
One last question — it’s about your comment: “instead of painting your cabinets right away”…Am I to assume, then, that you believe I should still proceed to paint the cabinets white — just later rather than sooner?
Thanks again.
YoungHouseLove says
Oh I thought you already had them painted in the cream color (per your sentence: I just had my pine kitchen cabinets painted in Benjamin Moore’s 0C-92 (Mannequin Cream)) and you wanted to repaint them because you noticed that your appliances stuck out afterwards. Sorry for the misunderstanding if that’s not the case! Either way we think that the cream color you originally chose will definitely work and you don’t have to repaint them at all! Not now or later. Especially once you bring in the white accessories to keep everything airy and cohesive. We just meant don’t rush into anything until you try our quick fix, which we’re betting will actually work for the long haul. And if you live with them a while and it still bothers you, definitely paint them by all means. We’re just betting it won’t come to that since cream and white can be so lovely together. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Maureen says
Hi
Just found your blog after googling painted kitchen ideas. I’ve been contemplating giving our timber kitchen (so 80s) a paint job but just thought you might be able to help with a problem. The estapol used on the kitchen originally has worn down so that sanding won’t be that difficult – what has happened however is that on the surface of the timber divider the estapol has become a bit sticky. I am thinking that this might just be a combination of a build up of cooking fumes/grease (yuk! – it’s not really that bad) but wonder how to prepare. Would sugar soap (I’m in australia – this is what we use to prepare the surface of woodwork before repainting) be OK?
I loved looking at the before and after pics – they really make the wood look very dated.
Thanks for any help.
Maureen
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Maureen,
Yup, using some sort of grease cutting soap will hopefully help you remove that sticky grease! Then just make sure everything dries thoroughly before you move on to sanding and priming as we suggest above. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
timothy esposito says
what do you think about using a auto sprayer for the actual paint and thinning the paint out a little bit. of course i will still use oil primer
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Timothy,
As long as you know what you’re doing with it, it’ll work well. The issue is when people use sprayers and get too close and apply too much paint so they’re left with a drippy, sticky mess. Paint brushes are more foolproof in that regard, but if you’re a pro with a sprayer and can apply thin and even layers then go for it.
xo,
s
Lisa says
S&J – I had asked you for a bit of painting advice earlier (wanted to paint my kitchen Hawthorne Yellow with Decorators White cabinets). We just put our newly painted cabinet doors back on last night and I wish i had videotaped the happy dance I did around my apartment (ok, kind of glad I didn’t). They look AMAZING. Our dinky little kitch looks bright and airy, and just a little bit French. The entire time we went through the projects (2 weeks, because we painted back and front) I was muttering, “I hope this works, I hope this works.” Your advice was spot on – just be patient, use oil-based primer, and voila! I love your blog and I can’t wait to convince my husband to embark on my YHL-inspired project! THANKS!!
Lisa in Brooklyn
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Lisa,
That is SO GREAT to hear! We’re constantly hearing about the “before” and the “during” so it’s amazing to hear about a flawless “after.” Good for you! Congrats on your kitchen makeover and we’re so glad our advice was helpful.
xo,
s
Cheryl says
Love, love, love your blog. You three are just the cutest.
I need your advice. I hate my kitchen cabinets. HATE THEM. They’re builder-grade plywood in the generic yellow “oak” stain, and they’re huge (42″), so it’s a lot of “oak” to hate. I have white appliances. My kitchen is painted a soft, soft pink color (almost a pinky white) and I have custom-painted pink “marble” laminate countertops. I have thought of painting the cabinets the Valspar Ultra White, but worry that there won’t be enough contrast with the pale walls, white appliances, and pink countertops.
I’m open to any suggestions. Thanks!
Cheryl in Colorado Springs
YoungHouseLove says
We would definitely go with the Ultra White. It’ll blend nicely with the appliances and work with the counters and walls to create an airy and soft looking space. Just punch things up with fun knobs and accessories around the kitchen to introduce some more contrast and it’ll be great! Good luck!
xo,
s
maryann says
my custom cabinets are painted white and within two months of installation, showed cracks and chips along some doors and drawer edges and along routing edges. What happened and what can I ask the cabinet maker to do? His work is guaranteed but this has happened even after the cabinets were removed and “fixed”.
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, that’s a toughie. Without examining your cabinets in person it’s unlikely we can guess what happened but since they’re guaranteed we recommend having your cabinet guy come back out to repair them or replace them. You could also get another expert in the field to look at them and try to figure out the cause. Good luck!
xo,
s
jessica says
Just curious as to where you bought your pendant light that hangs in your NEW kitchen over the sink?
Thanks!
Jessica
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Jessica,
It was an old West Elm light that’s no longer available. Maybe you can find it on ebay? It’s called a “seeded glass pendant.” Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Joe says
This site has been so helpful, thanx
Rick Chyzy says
Hi, I need some advice on choosing a color for my cabinets which are a dark brown 70’s color now. All my appliances are almond in color and I am open to whatever color on my walls. I tried a mint green on my walls after removing red checkboard wallpaper but hate it. After doing some reading here I am thinking about checking out BM decorator white. I was thinking at first about trying a red on the cabinets but am not so sure now. The countertop is a shade of white laminate. I am not worried about matching the floor, I will replace that when I’m done. Just picking the best color to go with the almond appliances and get rid of the ugly brown. Thanks
PS:I’ll upload a pic later when I get home
YoungHouseLove says
Definitely go for Benjamin Moore’s Decorators White. It will look crisp and awesome with your appliances and counter. Then for the walls try a warn creamy tan tone like Water Chestnut by Glidden. Gorgeous and warm and lovely!!!
xo,
s
Rick Chyzy says
Thanks, I am going to the store tomorrow to look at it.
Here are the pics of my kitchen.
http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z316/onetechyguy/Kitchen/
Holly says
S&J:
Cabinet painting is officially underway and while we have all our bases covered for the cabinets, we were wondering if you had any advice on a contrasting treatment for our large kitchen island. It is the same gross builder-grade oak as the rest of our kitchen, but we want it to look different (maybe less built-in and more freestanding furniture-ish?) BUT the only ideas I have found online involve beadboard or using trim to create “panels”. While both look nicer than what we have, our home is more contemporary–the greatroom/kitchen palette is black/white/grey/lemon yellow. Should we just give the island the same treatment as the rest of the cabs? Give in to beadboard? Or is there a more modern option that we are not thinking of?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Holly,
Hmm, we think beadboard might be a bit less modern than the look you’re going for so we’re wondering why you don’t use a different color on the kitchen island instead of a different material! You could go a few shades darker or lighter than your cabinets for a dramatic and dimensional look that’s crisp and modern and lovely (plus it’s super simple and inexpensive). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Perry says
Love your blog.Want to paint kitchen cabinets black.What type of paint should i use?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Perry,
A few coats of any latex semi-gloss paint (after one thin and even coat of oil-based primer) should do the trick. As for brands we love Benjamin Moore and Behr among others. Hope it helps!
xo,
s