Update: We have a much newer cabinet-painting post with more photos, details, and even a video for you here.
If you can paint a wall (and even if you can’t) you can paint your kitchen cabinets. There are just a few tried and true rules when attempting this project, so if you follow the simple steps outlined below it’ll be pretty hard to screw things up. And although you’ve all seen our newly renovated kitchen, we actually painted our previous 50-year-old knotty pine cabinets right after we moved in (to tide us over until we had the funds to replace them altogether). Check out the dark and dingy kitchen that we inherited with the house:
And the refreshing “after” thanks to only a few hours of prepping and painting:
So how did we do it? Easy peasy.
Step 1: Figure out what you want. Bring home paint swatches and select the perfect palette, and if you’re planning to replace your hardware, purchase some before you move on to the next step. Because most old hardware is a different size than newer hardware (the holes are further apart or closer together), it’s important to know if your new door and drawer bling is spaced differently than your current hardware before you begin. Then it’s nice to wash everything down with a little soap and water to cut the grease and the spills that have built up on the doors and drawers over the years. Nothin’ like a little sponge bath to get you in the mood to makeover your kitchen…
Step 2: Take it off, baby. Now it’s time to remove all of your hardware and your hinges (regardless of whether you’ll be reusing it or replacing it- and it helps to store everything in a big ziplock bag so you’re never short a screw). Of course by removing the hinges you’ll be removing all the doors, so finding a place that you can lay out a big fabric or plastic drop cloth (which are about $2 from Home Depot or Lowe’s) is a good idea. Once you have your drop cloth in place, lay out all your cabinet doors and drawers so you can paint them all together in one convenient spot (and have full access to the frames of the cabinets in the kitchen).
Step 3: Fill ‘er up. Then if you’re replacing your hardware with something that won’t fit the existing holes in your doors and drawers, you’ll want to pick up some wood filler (it’s around $6 a tube, which is all ya need) and fill those existing hardware holes in all of the doors and drawers. There are many different colors of wood fill, but since you’re painting your cabinets, matching the tone isn’t really a big deal (although it can’t hurt to grab the one that most closely resembles the color of your current cabinets).
Step 4: Get sandy. The sanding process isn’t always necessary (for example, our cabinets weren’t glossy so we skipped it and went straight to priming) but for some people with super shiny cabinets (aka: lots of polyurethane) it can’t hurt to run an electric sander over everything- or take a bit more time to hand sand things- with fine grit paper to rough everything up for maximum paint stickage. Not sure if yours need to be sanded? If they feel matte like a cutting board (a little absorbent) then they shouldn’t need it, but if they feel shiny like a laminated piece of paper or a glossy credit card then sanding is your best bet. Note: lead paint is a serious health risk when sanding, so if you have an older home with already-painted cabinets that look decades old it’s worth testing for lead with a $6 lead test kit from Home Depot. Safety first!
Step 5: It’s prime time. Due to all the grease and even just the wood stain that often coats kitchen cabinets, it’s über important to get down and dirty with oil-based primer (even if the water-based equivalent claims that it works just as well on cabinet surfaces, we’ve seen stains seep right through that stuff, so oil-based is the better-safe-than-sorry alternative). One coat of primer applied with a decent quality roller should do the trick (then just use a brush to get into those tigher spaces and the grooves in the doors). We prefer wool or polyester rollers (Purdy’s a great brand) over foam ones as we’ve found that they rile up the paint and cause bubbles. Oh and it doesn’t matter if you can still see the wood tone underneath after one coat, the primer’s main job is to make your cabinets sticky and the paint will do the rest. You’ll probably want to snag an extra brush just for priming since they’re usually pretty messed up afterwords (it’s best to toss it or save it for other priming projects and use a pristine new one for painting). And ditto with the roller. We usually don’t even try washing the oil-based paint out of it- and prefer to replace it with a fresh new one before painting for a seamless result (reused rollers and brushes can often compromise the smooth finish that you’re going for when it comes to your cabinets).
Step 6: Get your paint on. You’re in the home stretch, so just two coats of latex paint (in a semi gloss finish for easy wipe-ability) are next on the agenda. You’ll definitely want to wait a few hours after applying primer, but I actually primed and painted my cabinets (two coats!) all in the same day. When it comes to applying the paint, a high quality wool or polyester roller makes for the sleekest application. A mini foam roller can also help since it’s smaller and easy to control. You’ll also probably need to use a brush sparingly, just to get into those little cracks and crevices that your roller can’t reach. Do yourself a favor by buying an angle-tipped brush as opposed to a flat-tipped one- they make staying in the lines a lot easier.
Note: We didn’t prime or paint the inside of the doors, but our approach would be to prime/paint them first and then wait five days and turn them over and prime/paint the outside (that way if anything got a bit imperfect after being flipped face down, it would be on the inside- an therefore less noticeable).
Step 7: Wait for it. After two coats of latex paint you now have to practice patience. Most experts advise waiting at least three days to rehang or begin using your doors and drawers (especially since the rehanging process involves lots of holding and pressing and drilling which can muck up anything that’s not 100% dry). We actually advise waiting five days if ya can (it beats doing the whole thing all over again and guarantees a totally seamless finish even in high humidity).
Step 8: Hang in there. Then all you have to do is rehang your doors (either using your existing hinges or new ones), slip in your drawers, and add your hardware. If the hardware is new, take time to measure twice before you drill to avoid any annoying mistakes that will make you want to putty and repaint, which never looks as good as the flawless finish that you get the first time around. John actually took his sweet time drilling all of our holes for the new hardware (to the tune of about two hours) but it was well worth the assurance that everything was perfectly centered and right where it should be. In this case slow and steady wins the race.
*Oh and it bears noting that if your cabinets are anything but solid wood (laminate, veneered, etc) you should definitely take off a door or a drawer and bring it with you to your local hardware store and ask the paint pro there what they recommend. There are some great oil-based primers and enamel paints out there so it might be possible to get a semi-durable finish (although none as long-lasting as solid wood paint jobs). The key is really roughing up the surface so it’s less glossy and then priming and painting with the best stuff they have (usually oil or enamel based). Oh and don’t forget to let everything dry for a while so things can cure up and get super durable for the long haul.
So that about does it for our cabinet painting and refinishing tutorial. Of course Step 9 is to invite all of your friends over for celebratory margaritas or to do the happy dance every time you walk into your amazing new space. We hope this will help you completely transform your kitch on a dime and in a flash. And just in case you need a few more before & after pictures to convince you, here are two clients of ours that we helped transform their rooms with painted cabinets:
Here’s Kim’s crazy blue kitchen that she inherited with her home:
And here’s her two-tone masterpiece after a quick paint makeover (we suggested slightly different colors for her upper and lower cabinets):
And here’s Carla’s kitchen before she came to us for help:
And here it is after we encouraged her to paint her cabinets a crisp glossy white tone (along with her dining room chairs) while the dining table went black to mimic the backsplash:
Amazing what a little paint can do, eh? And if they can do it you can to! So if you have a spare weekend or even a few week nights you’ll be well on your way to a totally new room. Happy painting…
In need of a furniture painting tutorial? Fret not, we’ve gotcha covered.
Update: We have a much newer cabinet-painting post with more photos, details, and even a video for you here.
Holly B says
Hey Guys
I am getting ready to paint my kitchen and have a couple of questions:
1. Do you know anything about painting wood-paneled kitchen appliances? I have a dishwasher and Sub-Zero fridge with paneling and not sure what to do with them.
2. My kitchen walls are Wishes and i have black and white accents. Any suggestions for cabinet color? Should I go with Ultra White?
I check in with you guys before every project I do and your advice is always perfect!! :) Thanks!!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Holly B,
Yup, we would go with Ultra White on the cabinets for a totally refreshed look, and using the same one-coat-of-oil-based-primer-and-two-thin-and-even-coats-of-latex-paint approach should work well on your paneled appliances at least for a while until you can afford to upgrade them (but it helps to ask the paint pros at Home Depot or Benjamin Moore just to be sure there’s nothing out there that’ll work better and last longer). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Cathy Anderson says
Nice blog there!
Whoa! It so amazing and refreshing to see the after effect of repainting that kitchen. It seems to have life again or shall I say reborn? lol. You really did great! I love the color matching.
Just wanna ask. What kind of paint do you used in it?
Anyway, you did a clean and neat repaint. Thank you for the very helpful steps as well. Awesome makeover!
YoungHouseLove says
We used one coat of oil-based primer followed by semi-gloss latex paint in Brown Bag by Glidden. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Erin says
My husband and I are preparing for the big re-do of our kitchen cabinets, and I’m curious how you estimated the number of gallons of primer/paint you needed. I’ve tried to find a paint estimator online, but most of those relate to painting walls, not cabinets. We’d rather make the fewest possible trips to Lowe’s. :)
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Erin,
It shouldn’t take any more than one gallon of oil-based primer and one gallon of latex paint to complete a kitchen project of average size. Ours took a lot less of each (we still had tons left over). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Erin says
Thanks, Sherry! Hopefully I’ll have some great before and after photos to share in a few weeks!
Amy says
These kitchens look great and are totally inspiring! Any idea what color I could paint my dingy brown (think mid-80’s drab) cabinets so that they would coordinate with a cream formica countertop and cream appliances? Maybe just a darker brown stain? The walls are white (but I’m open to changing that as well)…
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Amy,
Oh yeah, a rich chocolate stain would be great, or you could go for a mocha tan tone on the cabinets (paint, not stain) to lighten things up. Either way it should look lovely with those existing counters and appliances. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Amy says
“Hey Amy,
Oh yeah, a rich chocolate stain would be great, or you could go for a mocha tan tone on the cabinets (paint, not stain) to lighten things up. Either way it should look lovely with those existing counters and appliances. Hope it helps!
xo,
s”
Thank you! I’m totally motivated to get to work over the holidays now!
carole says
What is the paint name/color/brand that you used for Carla’s kitchen cabinets? I have the same ugly honey oak cabinets and I was thinking of painting mine white. Your work is amazing. Have you ever thought about flipping a house. You’d be good @ it. Thank you , Carole
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Carole,
Thanks! We’ve actually thought about flipping houses but we get so attached that we’d hate to let anything go! Haha. As for what color Carla used for her cabinets, here’s a post with that info: https://www.younghouselove.com/2009/06/carlas-design-dilemma-solved/
Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Katie says
Where did you get the green curtains? I’m on a hunt for Chartreuse curtains for my living room and dining room in linen or raw silk. I cant find a vibrant shade of green anywhere.
Thanks! Katie
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Katie,
That’s actually not our kitchen it’s Carla’s! Here’s a post with a full source list so you can see where she grabbed them: https://www.younghouselove.com/2009/06/carlas-design-dilemma-solved/
xo,
s
sz says
I am painting cabinets kentucky haze, and putting in alaskan slate countertops, i wanted to choose a benjamin moore beige for the backsplash, can you make any suggestions please? The countertop link is here, it’s the first one there (Alaskan Slate), http://www.formica.com/publish/site/na/us/en/index/laminate/collection/honed_finish.html
Thanks.
YoungHouseLove says
Try Benjamin Moore’s Mocha Cream or Cedar Key. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Elle says
Hi again! I swear, I must post a comment/question at least once a month! Anyhoo, the hubs and I are considering painting our light maple cabinets white, and of course his super-analytical and logical brain kicked in (he is a computer engineer). His concern is that once the cabinet doors and frames are painted, the painted surfaces will be sticky (assuming we used a wipeable semi gloss paint) and rub up against each other – causing the paint to wear prematurely, flake or come off completely. I have to say, I share his hesitation. Any ideas for solving this problem?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Elle,
Well, we painted our cabinets with the oil-based primer followed by semi-gloss paint method along with many a reader who has sent pictures, followed our tutorial, etc and we have never had or heard of an issue with sticky paint that rubs/mars the finish after everything is rehung. The key to avoiding this is that paint must be allowed to completely cure before things are allowed to touch or rub against each other! This is why we suggest such a loooooong drying period (so that nothing is tacky, sticky or otherwise ruin-able). Once semi-gloss paint has completely cured it’s just as tough as any painted wood piece you’d buy from a store (a white Pottery Barn dresser that you use everyday and slide the drawers in and out without issue or damage would be a good demonstration of how “solid” semi-gloss paint can be once it is fully dried and cured). Hope that makes sense! The key is simple: ample drying time for every piece that will be brushing up against another piece (drawers, doors, etc). Hope it helps and good luck!
xo,
s
Elle says
I forgot to add the obvious, but I wanted to clarify that the painted surfaces (doors and inside frame/cabinet area) could wear and stick together from shutting and opening the cabinet door.
Lauren says
Hi Sherry!
Quick question- how do you tell if your cabinets are glossy or not and need sanding? Yours looked shiny to me in the photos, but you said they didn’t need to be sanded- any advice? (Here is a link to my cabinets if you think you could tell from the picture: http://suburbaliciousliving.blogspot.com/2008/10/friendly-yellow-kitchen.html)
Thanks, and happy new year!
Lauren
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Lauren,
Ours weren’t really shiny because they were just stained, and not coated with thick glossy polyurethane to “seal” them. If yours feel matte like a cutting board (a little absorbent) then they don’t need to be sanded. But if they feel shiny like a laminated piece of paper or a glossy credit card then it makes sense to sand first. And if you’re still not sure it’s always better to sand just for added security. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Lauren says
Thanks, Sherry- I can feel the wood grain on the cabinets so I think they’re more cutting board than credit card. Thanks, again!
L :)
Rachel Conatser says
My husband and I just bought our 1st home and we love it. The only problem is that is was built in 1970 so we are trying to update it to make it look cute :) We just recently painted our cabinets, It was HARD work but so worth it!! Have you had any experience or know anything about painting tile?? Our bathroom has HORRIBLE tile all over the walls and I hate it! Can’t afford to tear it down. Do you have any suggestions?
YoungHouseLove says
We wish we cold suggest a long-lasting and durable DIY solution to painting tile but we have heard that many methods are just a quick fix and often can peel and bubble after just months of use. For that reason we really can’t suggest anything but you might want to ask around at home improvement stores in the paint department to see if there are any new “tile refinishing” products that might be more durable and therefore worthwhile. Otherwise there’s always the option of covering your tile (you can obscure a tiled wall with beadboard for example) or hiring a professional to reglaze it (which can be a great option as long as you call references and really hunt for someone who is skilled- perhaps even check out some bathrooms they did a few years back to see how they hold up). Good luck!
xo,
s
Antonette says
Hi Sherry-
I’m curious if you painted the inside of the cabinets too, or just the faces and doors? If you did, do you have any tips? It seems like it would be kind of tricky getting under there.
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Antonette,
We actually only painted the fronts of the cabinets (so we never turned them over) but if we were going to paint the inside as well we would recommend doing that two or even three full days later so you don’t have the freshly painted side lying on a tarp getting indentations or smears. You want it to really cure up and get a nice hard finish. Starting with the insides of the cabinet doors is also recommended so if you do turn them over a few days later and they get a few imperfections they won’t be on the outside. Hope it helps! We promise the extra effort will be worth the wait!
xo,
s
Renee says
About tile paint- I am in Australia, and have read in multiple DIY magazines and on internet forums about people renovating their bathrooms with tile paint (we have a brand here called White Knight, locally manufactured, but I am sure there must be something similar in the US).
A question about the repainting- My cupboards are woodgrain laminated. Would I have to remove the laminate, or just sand in down before painting?
Cheers!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Renee,
Thanks for the tip on tile paint! Here’s hoping there’s something similar over here in the states! As for your cabinets, you’re right about removing or sanding down the laminate before painting. Whichever method you think will work best is the way to go. You just need to cut that glossiness (which you can do with sandpaper) so the primer and paint will stick, or get down to the wood (which also accepts primer and paint better than laminate). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Lacey says
Hey, I’m thinking of painting my kitchen cabinets. Did you take down the trim above the cabinets? I’m not sure if it’s called “trim” but that border stuff between the cabinets and the ceiling. Should i take it down to paint under it, or just paint over it? Thanks! I really enjoy reading your blog (and Hamburgers!).
YoungHouseLove says
We didn’t remove any of the header molding above our cabinets so there’s no need for you to go the extra mile. Just go ahead and paint right over it for a seamless look. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
n desperate need of help says
so my husband and i are building a house and the cabinets we picked to go in the kitchen are a dark chocolate but our fear is whether or not they will go with black appliances (fridge, microwave, dishwasher and stove). please can you help us and send pictures if this is something you think can be pulled off
YoungHouseLove says
We definitely think mocha or chocolate cabinets can work with black appliances. There’s not much contrast which is a good thing, so the appliances won’t stick out like a sore thumb. Just bring in black accessories to work with the appliances so it feels intentional (a black fruit bowl on the counter and a black and white framed picture on the wall will work right in with the appliances for a nice balanced look with the brown cabinets. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Lilian says
Hi Sherry,
Do you happen to have any up-close pix of one of your kitchen cabinets (door or drawer) that shows the final finish? I live in a house built in the 20s so the only example of painted drawers and cabs have decades of paint on them — I’d like to see what the finish should look like when I am done!
Thanks again,
Lil
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Lil,
Sorry we don’t! And we’ve since replaced them with a full kitchen gut job so I can’t snap any pics for you now. Why not try our cabinet painting technique (or any other that you read about and want to go with) on an old chest of drawers or other wooden piece of furniture to see how it goes? Don’t be scared! The worst thing you’ll ever have to do is sand things down if you don’t like the texture of the roller or the brush. Good luck!
xo,
s
Lilian says
Thanks — I’ve already started using the technique you suggested, just wanted to see what the finish should look like because I know mine won’t be right! Googling for pix doesn’t help either because people love to show close-ups of their terrible cabinets, but the pic of the finished product is a whole room pic! I’m in the waiting period phase before I re-hang the doors.
BTW, should I have been re-using my rollers and brushes or does each coat get a new brush and roller? Since I let the paint dry about a day before the next coat, I’ve been putting the brushes and rollers in a ziploc. Are you cringing? If it’s any consolation, I used new china brushes for the oil primer. :-)
Thanks,
Lil
YoungHouseLove says
That’s a totally smart approach to saving brushes and rollers (especially just for a day- although we wouldn’t recommend it for weeks on end). Good for you! And good luck, I’m sure it’ll come out fantastically well!
xo,
s
Andrea says
Thanks for the step-by-step tutorial. Very helpful. Just wondering – would you go with the same oil-based primer and latex paint for melamine cupboards? Ours our awful melamine on wood frames and I’d like to give our kitchen a more modern look (without the cost!) before we try selling.
Thanks!
Andrea
YoungHouseLove says
For melamine we’d suggest consulting the paint pros at your local hardware store. They might recommend specialized products for melamine. Our technique above probably wouldn’t hurt (and should certainly hold for a few years if you’re gentle) but there might be something out there to etch or rough up the melamine first (some sort of solvent) so they’ll really allow the primer and the paint to stick strongly for long-lasting durability. Good luck!
xo,
s
Barbara says
Woo hoo! I just got the go ahead from the hubby to paint our cabinets white. We live in a 60’s split level and the kitchen was redone in the 80’s. The cabinets are solid wood, but the finish is wearing off in patches and the oak is a weird orange color. One dilemma that we have is that the previous homeowners plopped granite counters on the cabinets on the sink and stove walls (not sure why they did that when the cabinets are in such rough shape) but not on the third wall, where the cabinets are arranged as if we had a built in hutch. There are glass cabinets above the cream formica counter, with solid cabinets below. This is where we keep the microwave and store snacks. The counter isn’t used for food prep. I thought about getting a piece of butcher block to put on top of the counter, but there is a narrow ledge off to the side with a 1/4 inch of formica on it and I don’t think I can attach a narrow piece of wood securely enough in this small area which is in a doorway and will get bumped into constantly. Sorry this is so long winded, but should I just paint all the formica white, too? Part of the decision to paint vs replacing the cabinets is that we don’t want all that new granite to end up in landfill.
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, it sounds like you would want to paint the formica to help it blend in with the rest of the kitchen, but we don’t know of any technique that would hold for the long haul without peeling and flaking. Perhaps there’s an etching cream you can use first to help create a more “grippy” foundation? Definitely ask around at your local home improvement store (the paint pros might be able to help). Good luck! You could also ask them about how you could go about adhering the butcherblock option (that also sounds amazing) since they might have a solution you haven’t thought of which will allow you to replace that formica afterall. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Lisa says
Hi Sherry,
I hope you can help me.
I came across your website while searching for tips on staining kitchen cabinets. Do you by any chance know if it is possible to stain oak cabinets? My kitchen looks almost identical to Carla’s kitchen, but I’m stuck with white appliances and I don’t think paining the cabinets white is a great idea, or is it? Any suggestions? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
You can definitely stain oak cabinets with a bit of sanding and some gel stain. Just ask the paint professionals at your local home improvement store for advice. As for painting the cabinets white with white appliances, we actually love that look! The appliances blend right in for a seamless and open look. There are lots of designer kitchens with white appliances and white painted cabinets but it’s up to you whether you like the stained look or the painted approach. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Lisa says
Thank you so much for your suggestions. I actually do love the way they look white so it’s good to know they will look good with white appliances. I really enjoy reading your blog, you are an inspiration to many. I will definitely be coming back. Thanks again.
Jenny Steffens says
We also ‘transformed’ our kitchen with a few coats of paint… http://jennysteffens.blogspot.com/2009/07/home-diy-kitchen-update.html
It turned out great!
makita 18v says
A glossy finish would not be the only reason that you would have so sand old cabinets before painting them. The wood surface could have wax on it from years of furniture polish. I had that happen to me once and had to start over after I noticed that the paint was pealing off! It’s a good idea to at least wipe off the cabinets with a solvent before beginning the painting process. (Like paint or lacquer thinner)
YoungHouseLove says
Good point Makita! Anyone with thick wax on their cabinets definitely needs to remove that before priming and painting!
xo,
s
Betsy says
I painted my cabinets last year, and just painted oil semigloss over the painted wood. Now I see I should have used a primer. But, then I went to the hardware store in Towson that carries Ben Moore, and the old paint dudes almost had a heart attack when I said I wanted oil based primer and latex semigloss.
Betsy says
So I just lied and said it was 2 different projects, to keep the peace. :-)
YoungHouseLove says
That’s pretty funny! They didn’t think you could use oil-based primer followed by latex paint? I’m shocked. That’s pretty much the industry standard. You can’t use latex paint on top of oil-based PAINT, but over oil-based primer it’s great. Hope it helps! Glad you kept the peace…
xo,
s
Gloria says
So, since I discovered you guys last summer, I painted my fireplace white, painted my front door red, added cork board to my cabinets and hung new curtains. Now, I want to tackle my oak bathroom cabinet. I’d like to paint it white, but the countertop is white. Is white on white to much??? Also, there’s a cabinet over the toilet that would need to be painted as well. The doors are wood, but this sides are laminate. Can I use the same method/paint on this? Thank you for your inspiration!
YoungHouseLove says
White on white is definitely not too much! You just don’t want the white tones to clash (I know, it’s weird that that’s even possible) so bring home a bunch of white and off white swatches and hold them up to your cabinet to see which ones match or complement it best). As for using the same method on the cabinet with the laminate sides, it should work really well. The good news is that the wood doors will get more wear and tear than the sides so although laminate doesn’t traditionally stand up as well as solid wood in your case it should be just great. Hope it helps and good luck!
xo,
s
Erika says
I wasn’t sure if I should leave this comment here or in response to your question in “The Bathroom’s Unseen Annoyances,” but here goes… My husband and I decided that our first DIY project would be to tackle our cabinets, and after sanding all of our doors and part of the boxes, it occurred to us that the old paint likely contains lead (house built in 1924). By Poison Control’s recommendation, we had to get our blood lead levels checked (his = fine, mine = TBD). A lead-certified professional recommended that we clean from ceiling to floor while wearing cover-alls, toxic dust masks, gloves, etc. – and we went through 11 double rolls of paper towels in only 2 rooms (“wipe forward & backwards once, then throw the towel away…”). Next we have to take swipe samples to send to a lab to ensure that we don’t have lead dust throughout the house – hopefully not, because that could set us back thousands and thousands of dollars to abate due to its toxicity. Perhaps you can put a tiny note in the post as a warning for others who want to do the project? Even intelligent people make stupid (and health-threatening) mistakes :(
YoungHouseLove says
Great point! We actually have a lead safety post coming up so along with adding a lead warning to the sanding step in the post above (thanks for the idea!) we’re also going to dedicate an entire post to lead safety and link to it on the top of our How To page! We also mentioned some of the lead paint safety precautions we took in the first stages of our big bathroom makeover right here: https://www.younghouselove.com/2009/12/tackling-the-bathroom-chapter-two/
Hope it helps!
xo,
s
tricia says
Great advice. I’d really love to embark on a kitchen cabinet painting project, and i’m heartened by your blog. One question, though. . . my kitchen was “remuddled” in the late ’80s/early ’90s, and the cabinets appear to be pretty cheap. They’re not plastic but probably laminate or some other hollow-ish wood-like product (sorry for the lack of specifics here, but I’m at a loss). Is it worth painting these? They seem to have stood up reasonably well, but they don’t feel like “real” wood, and lack heft or substance. They’re also quite dark. I can’t splash out on new cabinets, but am wondering if it makes sense to even bother trying to paint what looks like a cheap base. thoughts on this?
YoungHouseLove says
Definitely take off a door or drawer and bring it with you to the hardware store and ask the paint pro what they recommend. There are some great primers and enamel paints out there so hopefully they think it can be done! We’ve seen it completed with varying levels of success but the key is really roughing up the surface so it’s less glossy and priming and painting with the best stuff they have (usually oil or enamel based). Oh and don’t forget to let them dry for a while so they really cure up and get durable for the long haul. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Elle says
Hello again!
So I know that you guys currently have an electric freestanding range in your kitch (that’s what it looks like anyway), but the question is: Was the previous range before the big kitchen makeover an electric or gas range? I ask because, along with our dishwasher and HW floors experiencing technical difficulties right now, we also discovered that our oven no longer works (this happened after we moved in- it had been working until about a month ago). The problem is that our current range is gas, but we want electric. In your opinion, is it possible to convert over to electric? How do we go about doing this? Who should we consult? FYI, a plumber was the suggestion of a not-so-helpful employee at Home Depot.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Elle,
We’ve always had an electric stove so it was an easy low-cost switcheroo when we upgraded to our newer stainless model (dropping a gas line would have definitely taken our budget up a bit). The good news is that we’ve heard converting from gas to electric is a lot cheaper than getting a gas line (since you just have to cap off the existing line and add a three-pronged heavy duty plug) so perhaps you can get a few estimates to see if it’s doable. And as for who to call, just head online or to your Yellow Pages and look up “gas and electric” experts. Many people specialize in both areas so you can call and say that you’re a private residence (make sure they don’t only do commercial) and you’d like to cap a gas line and put in an electric stove. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Kathy says
I am gearing up to paint my oak-finish kitchen cabinets soon, so your advice here is priceless! Thank you!.
I was wondering if you could recommend your favorite brand of oil-based primer–? Also, would you recommend using a VOC-free paint over the oil-based primer when painting cabinets? I usually use FreshAire brand and would like to use a non-toxic paint if possible.
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Kathy,
We love Kilz when it comes to oil-based primer. Unfortunately the oil-based stuff is stinky and definitely not non-toxic, but if you apply it in a ventilated area (in the garage or out in the yard) it’s truly the best way to get great results. Many people try the low odor water-based stuff instead but it’s not a shortcut- it’s actually a longcut because it often involves sanding everything down once it bubbles and peels and starting over with the oil-based stuff. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Crissa says
Let me start off by saying I love your blog…LOVE it! My husband, of 3 years now, and I bought our fisrt home 1 year ago and haven’t started any real projects but I can’t wait to try doing our cabinets!
My question is: If I want to change my counter top can I use the old cabinets??? If so, what steps should I take to ensure the best results? Thanks so much in advance!
~Crissa
YoungHouseLove says
You can definitely save your cabinets but change your counters. The eternal debate would be whether you should repaint the cabinets first and then get your new counters installed afterwards or do it in the opposite order. On one hand, you might get your new paint job scraped a bit when they put in the new counters (it’s a pretty tight fit sometimes and they have to brush the counters right up against the repainted cabinets) and on the other hand if you wait to paint until after you new counters are installed you’ll need to take care not to get primer or paint on the new counters. We would actually recommend replacing the counters first. Then just cover them with plastic and tape them off so when you paint the cabinets they’re perfect and protected. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Valerie says
Hi Sherry!
My hubs and I and our friends follow your blog religiously, and we all often find ourselves asking ourselves (hah) WWTYD (what would the youngsters do)?
Anyway, this weekend I am going to paint our oak kitchen cabinets. They have an arch design on the doors, so they are not flat. I think you’ve always recommended brushes over rollers for these projects, right? If so what brand of brushes would you use? And how do I make sure to avoid drips and unevenness around the beveled arches and frames?
Also, our cabinets definitely have a layer of polyurethane on them but it’s not super shiny. Do you think hand sanding with 220 grit paper would do the trick? Would you sand again after a layer of the oil primer too?
Thanks,
Val
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Valerie,
You can actually roll as much of your cabinets as possible and then just have a copilot come in with a paint brush and get into all the cracks and arches, etc. That’s how my sister in law and I tag-teamed my old cabinets (she rolled and I brushed along behind her). We like a nice high-quality 2″ angled brush from Purdy and a good Purdy roller made for flat surfaces. You actually want to pick up two rollers and two brushes (since the primer can gum things up so you’ll want fresh new rollers and brushes for the painting phase for a more seamless effect). And as for the poly on your cabinets, we would definitely sand everything down before primer but not after. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Valerie says
Thanks! Sorry one more, just one more (I hope): how do you recommend cleaning the grit and dust that accumulates from the sanding? Wet sponge and wait to dry, or do you have a better technique?
Can’t wait to send you our ‘before and afters’!
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, we used a wet rag to wipe everything down followed by a dry rag to be sure we got everything. Of course waiting til it’s totally dry to prime is the best way to go. Good luck!
xo,
s
Crissa says
Thanks Sherry! Now I just have to go sweet talk the hubs into a new counter top! :) He’ll be so thrilled! LoL!
Crystal says
I just painted my kitchen cabinets. They were the honey oak look…I cleaned, sanded everything down, but, used a water based tinted primer and then two coats of latex semi gloss paint…is that going to be ok? I noticed everything you have stated said to use oil based? They look great? But, am very concerned that this will be a problem? What is the difference between the two? And, do I need to use some sort of sealer? If so, what? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
If thibgs look great they should be perfect- no sealer required! Some people get bubbling and peeling and tackiness but water-based formulas are getting better and better so if they look smooth and lovely you’re in good shape! Just be sure to give them TONS of drying time to avoid any dents and dings while they fully cure. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Jill says
Getting ready to embark on this project, and of course, came to your website for advice….
One step I noticed is missing from your process is using a “stripper” before sanding. I didn’t know that this was necessary, but at Home Depot today, someone suggested using something to strip the poly off before sanding. Do you guys think this is necessary? Or can I go straight to sanding? Thanks for the help!
YoungHouseLove says
We never used a stripper (nor did many other people that we know who have experienced excellent results) but it’s sort of like extra credit. It can’t really hurt but it’s probably not necessary. Sanding will rough up the poly and create a nice grip for the primer so you should be golden. It’s how the experts do it. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Marie says
I am new to this site, so you may have answered this question many times over, but…. We primed and painted new pine cabinets and now have knots bleeding through. We primed twice and painted twice, but didn’t use an oil based primer. How do we fix this mess?
YoungHouseLove says
You needed to use oil-based primer to block the bleed. Water-based just won’t do it, no matter how many coats you apply. Definitely just rough everything up with some sand paper and go for the oil-based primer method detailed above. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Stephanie says
Hi, Love your blog. Need some suggestions for painting wood cabinets black (bathroom area). Would you still use a white oil-based primer underneath (most primer I see is white or light colored)? Do you have any suggestions for the primer before painting my wood cabinets black? I am worried the light primer would come through if it got nicked chipped. Thanks for your help and all of your wonderful ideas!
YoungHouseLove says
You can definitely get them to tint any oil-based primer (or even pick up a ready-mixed one with a darker base) so just visit your local home improvement store and ask for something that will work under black paint. Just be sure they don’t try to talk you into something water-based (trust me, they do this often and we’ve learned the hard way that it’s not the way to go). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Nicole K. says
My husband and I have become addicted to your blog! We are getting ready to do a facelift of our 1960’s kitchen that includes painting our cabinets. Is there a specific type of latex paint that you would recommend? Did you use paint that is intended for cabinets or just regular semi-gloss paint? Thanks for all of the great ideas and step by step tutorials!
YoungHouseLove says
Just regular old latex semi-gloss paint. We like Behr, Benjamin Moore and Mythic (which is a great No-VOC option). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Ben says
Nice article!
As a professional painting contractor I can tell you have some experience. Gotta use the oil primer. I’ve never found a water-based one that’s even close. I usually wash all my cabinets with water and then again with Lacquer thinner or Acetone. It’s stinky. But some grime is h2o based and some solvent based. Keep up the good work!
YoungHouseLove says
Thanks Ben! We too have learned from experience that the oil-based stuff is incomparable so far. Every job that we do following the steps that we detailed in the post above works out perfectly and when we deviate with any water-based primer the finish is always tacky or even stained/marred with bleed-through marks. Here’s hoping someday they’ll come up with a less fumey alternative, but in the meantime we encourage everyone to get the job done right the first time with the oil-based primer if they can!
xo,
s
Jane says
Got a question on the subject of painting cabinets.
Over the last 2 weekends we’ve repainted the entire interior of our house, replacing caramel browns, brick reds and psyche-ward yellows with a combination of a light, soft greenish blue and a creamy soft yellow in all the rooms. Your blog inspired me to light colors.
Problem is, now my kitchen cabinets look incredibly dingy next to these light airy colors. I’m thinking of painting them a soft white, the same color that we painted all of our trimwork and doors.
I’m wondering if it will look okay to have the cabinets match the trimwork, or if we should go with a different shade of white for the cabinets. Our countertops and backsplash are tan tile with grout a few shades lighter. Floors are light ceramic tile.
Any opinion?
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yeah we’d actually recommend sticking with the same soft white that you used for your trim so neither the cabinets nor the trim will look dirty by comparison. Keeping that color consistency will open things up and look cohesive and lovely. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Jane says
Great, thank you so much for responding! Can’t wait to get started now.
Stephanie says
I was at Home Depot the other day and saw a Kilz oil-based primer that was low odor and low VOC. Was wondering if you have tried this? Do you think it will work as well as the regular oil-based Kilz? Or do you think they watered down this oil-based low odor version?
YoungHouseLove says
We have no idea but it’s a great question. Maybe the paint experts can shed some light on the subject and compare the differences? We would hope that as long as it still says “stainblocker” on the can (and not just “primer”) that it would work just as well when it comes to blocking those pesky bleed-through mishaps. If it doesn’t you might just want to bite the bullet and prime those cabinets with a gas mask on and the windows open for the most flawless finished product. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Stephanie says
Thanks for your quick response. I will definitely check the can for “stainblocker”. Another quick question. What grit sand paper should I use to sand my kitchen cabinets? They are old with a lot of poly in some areas. Thanks again!
YoungHouseLove says
100 grit should do the trick. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Ning says
It’s great coming across your post while researching repainting kitchen cabinets online. I have a questions about this product called CabinetCoat. Have you or anyof your followers tried this? Does it work like it claims? It claims to be primer/stainbocker/paint in one.
Thanks for your help!
YoungHouseLove says
We haven’t used it but did have excellent results with the process we detailed above in this post. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Diane says
We are thinking of painting our kitchen cabinets, we were recommended to used the “Aqua Lock water based primer sealer” first and than apply 2 coats of the Melanine paint. Could you tell me the difference between the semi-gloss latex paint versus the melanine paint?
thanks for your great help!
DR
YoungHouseLove says
We actually can’t tell you the difference, but that would be a great question for the experts at your local home improvement center. We’re just sharing what worked for us in this post, so because we didn’t go with melamine or aqua lock primer we can’t really shed any light on that subject (other than warning you that many people have issues with bleeding or tackiness that refuses to harden when they use water-based primer over the oil-based stuff). Just know that tons of people have used our tutorial above with a lot of success so it’s relatively error-proof if you’d like to give it a try (scroll up for comments from people who have successfully painted their kitchens with this method, which might help you out). Good luck!
xo,
s
Jo Anne Grigsby says
Hi, guys! Love your blog! My husband and I are in the middle of a huge remodel…just added 1,500 sq. ft. and are doing all of the finish work ourselves. I was wondering if there is a reason you use semi-gloss paint for your cabinets and trimwork, or if it’s just personal preference. All of our trim in the old part of our house was high gloss. It’s all about to get repainted as the new trim in the new addition gets painted. Just wondering! Thanks in advance!
:o) Jo Anne
YoungHouseLove says
It’s part personal preference (since we didn’t really need it to be super glossy) but also part practicality since it’s harder to get a flawless finish with high gloss paint (it shows a bit more brush strokes and imperfections than the slightly more forgiving semi-gloss option). Hope it helps!
xo,
s