Update: We have a much newer cabinet-painting post with more photos, details, and even a video for you here.
If you can paint a wall (and even if you can’t) you can paint your kitchen cabinets. There are just a few tried and true rules when attempting this project, so if you follow the simple steps outlined below it’ll be pretty hard to screw things up. And although you’ve all seen our newly renovated kitchen, we actually painted our previous 50-year-old knotty pine cabinets right after we moved in (to tide us over until we had the funds to replace them altogether). Check out the dark and dingy kitchen that we inherited with the house:
And the refreshing “after” thanks to only a few hours of prepping and painting:
So how did we do it? Easy peasy.
Step 1: Figure out what you want. Bring home paint swatches and select the perfect palette, and if you’re planning to replace your hardware, purchase some before you move on to the next step. Because most old hardware is a different size than newer hardware (the holes are further apart or closer together), it’s important to know if your new door and drawer bling is spaced differently than your current hardware before you begin. Then it’s nice to wash everything down with a little soap and water to cut the grease and the spills that have built up on the doors and drawers over the years. Nothin’ like a little sponge bath to get you in the mood to makeover your kitchen…
Step 2: Take it off, baby. Now it’s time to remove all of your hardware and your hinges (regardless of whether you’ll be reusing it or replacing it- and it helps to store everything in a big ziplock bag so you’re never short a screw). Of course by removing the hinges you’ll be removing all the doors, so finding a place that you can lay out a big fabric or plastic drop cloth (which are about $2 from Home Depot or Lowe’s) is a good idea. Once you have your drop cloth in place, lay out all your cabinet doors and drawers so you can paint them all together in one convenient spot (and have full access to the frames of the cabinets in the kitchen).
Step 3: Fill ‘er up. Then if you’re replacing your hardware with something that won’t fit the existing holes in your doors and drawers, you’ll want to pick up some wood filler (it’s around $6 a tube, which is all ya need) and fill those existing hardware holes in all of the doors and drawers. There are many different colors of wood fill, but since you’re painting your cabinets, matching the tone isn’t really a big deal (although it can’t hurt to grab the one that most closely resembles the color of your current cabinets).
Step 4: Get sandy. The sanding process isn’t always necessary (for example, our cabinets weren’t glossy so we skipped it and went straight to priming) but for some people with super shiny cabinets (aka: lots of polyurethane) it can’t hurt to run an electric sander over everything- or take a bit more time to hand sand things- with fine grit paper to rough everything up for maximum paint stickage. Not sure if yours need to be sanded? If they feel matte like a cutting board (a little absorbent) then they shouldn’t need it, but if they feel shiny like a laminated piece of paper or a glossy credit card then sanding is your best bet. Note: lead paint is a serious health risk when sanding, so if you have an older home with already-painted cabinets that look decades old it’s worth testing for lead with a $6 lead test kit from Home Depot. Safety first!
Step 5: It’s prime time. Due to all the grease and even just the wood stain that often coats kitchen cabinets, it’s über important to get down and dirty with oil-based primer (even if the water-based equivalent claims that it works just as well on cabinet surfaces, we’ve seen stains seep right through that stuff, so oil-based is the better-safe-than-sorry alternative). One coat of primer applied with a decent quality roller should do the trick (then just use a brush to get into those tigher spaces and the grooves in the doors). We prefer wool or polyester rollers (Purdy’s a great brand) over foam ones as we’ve found that they rile up the paint and cause bubbles. Oh and it doesn’t matter if you can still see the wood tone underneath after one coat, the primer’s main job is to make your cabinets sticky and the paint will do the rest. You’ll probably want to snag an extra brush just for priming since they’re usually pretty messed up afterwords (it’s best to toss it or save it for other priming projects and use a pristine new one for painting). And ditto with the roller. We usually don’t even try washing the oil-based paint out of it- and prefer to replace it with a fresh new one before painting for a seamless result (reused rollers and brushes can often compromise the smooth finish that you’re going for when it comes to your cabinets).
Step 6: Get your paint on. You’re in the home stretch, so just two coats of latex paint (in a semi gloss finish for easy wipe-ability) are next on the agenda. You’ll definitely want to wait a few hours after applying primer, but I actually primed and painted my cabinets (two coats!) all in the same day. When it comes to applying the paint, a high quality wool or polyester roller makes for the sleekest application. A mini foam roller can also help since it’s smaller and easy to control. You’ll also probably need to use a brush sparingly, just to get into those little cracks and crevices that your roller can’t reach. Do yourself a favor by buying an angle-tipped brush as opposed to a flat-tipped one- they make staying in the lines a lot easier.
Note: We didn’t prime or paint the inside of the doors, but our approach would be to prime/paint them first and then wait five days and turn them over and prime/paint the outside (that way if anything got a bit imperfect after being flipped face down, it would be on the inside- an therefore less noticeable).
Step 7: Wait for it. After two coats of latex paint you now have to practice patience. Most experts advise waiting at least three days to rehang or begin using your doors and drawers (especially since the rehanging process involves lots of holding and pressing and drilling which can muck up anything that’s not 100% dry). We actually advise waiting five days if ya can (it beats doing the whole thing all over again and guarantees a totally seamless finish even in high humidity).
Step 8: Hang in there. Then all you have to do is rehang your doors (either using your existing hinges or new ones), slip in your drawers, and add your hardware. If the hardware is new, take time to measure twice before you drill to avoid any annoying mistakes that will make you want to putty and repaint, which never looks as good as the flawless finish that you get the first time around. John actually took his sweet time drilling all of our holes for the new hardware (to the tune of about two hours) but it was well worth the assurance that everything was perfectly centered and right where it should be. In this case slow and steady wins the race.
*Oh and it bears noting that if your cabinets are anything but solid wood (laminate, veneered, etc) you should definitely take off a door or a drawer and bring it with you to your local hardware store and ask the paint pro there what they recommend. There are some great oil-based primers and enamel paints out there so it might be possible to get a semi-durable finish (although none as long-lasting as solid wood paint jobs). The key is really roughing up the surface so it’s less glossy and then priming and painting with the best stuff they have (usually oil or enamel based). Oh and don’t forget to let everything dry for a while so things can cure up and get super durable for the long haul.
So that about does it for our cabinet painting and refinishing tutorial. Of course Step 9 is to invite all of your friends over for celebratory margaritas or to do the happy dance every time you walk into your amazing new space. We hope this will help you completely transform your kitch on a dime and in a flash. And just in case you need a few more before & after pictures to convince you, here are two clients of ours that we helped transform their rooms with painted cabinets:
Here’s Kim’s crazy blue kitchen that she inherited with her home:
And here’s her two-tone masterpiece after a quick paint makeover (we suggested slightly different colors for her upper and lower cabinets):
And here’s Carla’s kitchen before she came to us for help:
And here it is after we encouraged her to paint her cabinets a crisp glossy white tone (along with her dining room chairs) while the dining table went black to mimic the backsplash:
Amazing what a little paint can do, eh? And if they can do it you can to! So if you have a spare weekend or even a few week nights you’ll be well on your way to a totally new room. Happy painting…
In need of a furniture painting tutorial? Fret not, we’ve gotcha covered.
Update: We have a much newer cabinet-painting post with more photos, details, and even a video for you here.
Leslie says
Hi Guys!
Okay so this may be a silly question and I feel totally dorky asking it buuutt….
How do you paint the front and the back of the cabinet doors at the same time? Do you have to just paint one side, wait for it to dry and then paint the other side? Or is there another way that I’m not thinking of that saves some time?
We just bought a house, so I have about a million ideas running through my head!!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Leslie,
We actually only painted the fronts of the cabinets (so we never turned them over) but if we were going to paint the inside as well we would recommend doing that two or even three full days later so you don’t have the freshly painted side lying on a tarp getting indentations or smears. You want it to really cure up and get a nice hard finish. Starting with the insides of the cabinet doors is also recommended so if you do turn them over a few days later and they get a few imperfections at least they won’t be on the outside. Hope it helps! We promise the extra effort will be worth the wait!
xo,
s
Leslie says
Wow you are quick!
Thank you for the info! Maybe I will just skip painting inside then. Painting the cabinets is just a temp fix until we replace them in the next couple of months!
Thanks again for all of the amazing home improvment advice!
Tess says
Hey there,
Love your site, very informative! My husband and I are going to be painting our kitchen cabinets so I’ve been reading up on all your suggestions. I noticed that you recommended on one of the pictures above to paint the table and chairs. Are you using the same type of paint and the same process that was used on the cabinetry? Sanding and what not…
What colors can you recommend so that it does not turn out “country” but will still do well for resale?
Thanks for your time!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Tess,
Here’s a thorough furniture painting tutorial for you: https://www.younghouselove.com/2009/02/how-to-paint-furniture/
Any color looks great from crisp white or soft cream to dramatic black or even something punchy like lime, turquoise, or raspberry. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Becky says
Sherry and John, thank you so much for your beyond inspiring blog! You’ve completely changed the way I look at decorating and have given me the courage to tackle some projects I never would have attempted before! I’m a new homebuyer with a cute condo that needs some updating. I have almost the same kitchen cabinets as Carla–the yellowy-orange oak. Many friends and family members love my cabinets and have lobbied for me to keep them, but I prefer a less “country” look. My question is in regard to caulking the “seams” on the face of the cabinet where the pieces of wood meet. There are some teeny bits of space along some of the seams. A painter friend said she would caulk them before painting, but I haven’t seen any reader questions or comments on this post in regard to this. Any thoughts on caulking?
THANKS so much in advance!
Becky :)
P.S. Based on some of your advice/projects, I’m considering painting the kitchen and living room/dining area (it’s all quite open) in Water Chestnut and doing the cabinets BM’s Decorator’s White. This “room” abuts a hallway/entryway done in BM’s Windham Cream. Does that sound harmonious and are there any colors of granite countertop you’d suggest? I’m hoping to snag a mood board one of these Mondays! Many thanks!!! :)
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, you’ll definitely want to bridge any cracks or gaps before painting because paint will not cover those up in the least (it’ll just seep in and once you’re done you’ll wish you had addressed them). We don’t know of a specific wood filler, putty or caulk that we would recommend so we would ask around at your local home improvement center or even google around to see if you can see any articles on the subject. Most importantly you need something “paintable” (some fillers aren’t!) and “shrink proof” so it doesn’t dry and get smaller (which would leave you with two smaller cracks instead of one big one). Hope it helps! Oh and your colors sound perfect! So classic- you really can’t go wrong. Then your granite can be any tone of cream, tan, mocha, or even black if you like the high contrast look. It’ll be lovely! Try doing all the painting first and then bringing home some granite samples to hold up to make the final decision. Good luck!
xo,
s
Becky says
Sherry,
As always, thanks for being so generous with your time in answering my question :) I cleaned the cabinets last night in preparation for the sanding, caulking and priming and boy are they a greasy dirty mess! I’m hoping the Kilz stain-blocking primer is up for this icky task! hehe :)
Steph says
Hi Sherry,
Thanks for all of your great advice. I’m getting ready to paint my kitchen cabinets. The walls will be BM Manchester Tan (or something close)I have always used a Swiss Coffee color to paint my items white (I love the shabby chic look). After reading your blog I am considering using BM Decorator White for the cabinets. What do you think? My appliances are black. Also my cabinets butt up to the ceiling, should I paint the ceiling the same color as the cabinets or the same as the walls?
YoungHouseLove says
We would definitely go with Swiss Coffee since that’s a color you love and you might find the Decorators White to be too crisp and pure for you. They both would look lovely with your wall color and appliances though, so you really can’t go wrong. Good luck!
xo,
s
Lorri says
Sherry,
I have a combination of old and new cabinets. The new ones are a bicotti color with a cocoanut glaze.
I am considering using Dunn Edwards Permasheen paint on my old kitchen cabinets. Should I still use an oil based primer? Or should I go to a satin or eggshell enamel (oil based) on the cabinets and possible add a little glaze in the seams? I plan to paint the cabinets a biscotti color and then perhaps add a white glaze. Also, should I give the cabinets a poly type final coat to seal all of this?
YoungHouseLove says
Our recommended method is outlined above, so we would definitely still use an oil-based primer and not use a top coat of poly to seal anything (since it’s not necessary and it can actually be a lot harder to create a seamless look than going without). If you have any questions just read the instructions on the paint can or ask the pros at your local home improvement center. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Jenn says
WOW – I could not have found this blog at a more ideal time. I have a cabinet-painting question that goes like this: our soon-to-be-purchased home has a living room that is very, very similar to yours, only our front door is across from the entrance to the kitchen. Along that wall (where you have the Lack shelves), there are built-in drawers and cabinets that are the same yellow-y blond wood color of the current trim and doors. We plan to paint the trim and doors white and the walls a light, airy color. Our wood floors will be dark. But what do you suggest those cabinets be painted? Do I do them white, like the trim and doors, or dark like the floors, or something altogether different? The cabinets have to stay, because for now they have important function. I guess I’m fearful that a wall of white cabinets/drawers will make it look like a clinic.
Thanks so much! You’re an inspiration!
YoungHouseLove says
We actually love the look of white shelves to work with the trim in your space. It’s a classic color choice and you can accessorize with other colors and tones, but you’ll never regret making such a timeless decision. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
kathryn says
I’ve been thinking of painting our cabinets, but unfortunately I don’t know if it will work. The doors and part of the cabinet are real wood, but part of the cabinet is particle board. Will this still work? Do you just sand down the paper that is on the side of the cabinet? Or would this be a disaster?
YoungHouseLove says
Step away from the sander! The best way to attack the particle board parts of your cabinets would be to thoroughly clean and degrease the cabinets and avoid sanding at all. Just add a thin and even coat of primer followed by latex paint (click over to see more details about what primer and paint to choose on our cabinet painting post, which we linked to at the bottom of this post). You can also pop into any local home improvement store to ask a few paint pros what they suggest (just run if they talk about water based primer- trust us, we have experienced terrible bleed-through issues with it). Good luck!
xo,
s
Judy says
Our circa 1970s brown cabinet doors have an inset/panel that is similar to beadboard, but the vertical grooves are a little wider. I want to “fill” in those grooves. Any advice?
Thanks for your help … and I’m addicted to your site!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Judy,
Just take one of those doors off and bring it to your local home improvement store. The pros there should be able to suggest all sorts of paintable fillers to bridge those gaps for you. Good luck!
xo,
s
Sarah says
We have Koa cabinets that were painted white and we can’t get all the paint off. I want to repaint them white now, how do I do this with out it looking bumpy in the end due to the old paint? Its in the grain. Thank you! Sarah
YoungHouseLove says
Just sand, sand, sand to get things smooth before you move on to applying the new primer and paint. Start out with a low grit paper like 60 grit and move up to 150 or 200 grit after a few passes with the 60 grit stuff to get things super even and smooth. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Arlene Mueller says
I’ve noticed that a job well done hasn’t changed in 40 years. That’s about how long it’s been since I refinished my kitchen cabinets. That home was for sale about 10 years ago and I went in to have a look. The kitchen cabinets were not chipped or showing any signs of ware around the edges or handles. Your advice about how to do it right, is absolutely correct. It’s all in the the prep work.
Kathryn says
Thank you so much for the advice! I appreciate it!
Jill says
Hi! We have solid oak cabinets in our kitchen and are worried that the paint wont hold (we’d like to paint them white) – do you have any further suggestions or do you think the steps you outlined above would work? Thank You!!
YoungHouseLove says
Our cabinets were solid wood (knotty pine) and we know many many people who have followed our tutorial above for solid oak cabinets with fabulous results. This tutorial was written specifically for solid wood so it’s definitely the way to go!
xo,
s
Mary says
Thanks for such a helpful guide on painting cabinets and wonderful pictures.
Our cabinets appear like they have the original factory finish on them – a pre-painted laminate. They are white – very much like Carla’s white cabinets. But the white is not looking so pretty anymore. It’s chipping and worn. I’ve tried touching them up but the white does not match. Ugh!
Do your cabinet painting suggestions apply to cabinets like ours that have a factory finish?
YoungHouseLove says
We would suggest bringing a door from your cabinets to your local home improvement store to see what they recommend. Good luck!
xo,
s
marie says
Did you paint the inside of the doors? If so how long did you go about the process- do the inside first then wait the 5 days and then do the outside?
YoungHouseLove says
We didn’t paint the inside of the doors, but our approach would be to paint them first and then wait five days and paint the outside (that way if anything got a bit imperfect after being painted it would be the inside since you did those first and had to turn them over). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Vidu says
Hey,
Me and my husband bought a new home and its very very old fashioned. Everything has to be changed in the house. The first thing we want to target on is the kitchen. Our kitchen is in a very bad shape, with the worst cabinets ever. I need your help. I also want to put in some nice back splash but we are on a tight budget. Can I email you the picture of my kitchen or if you could suggest me on how to post I would need your help. Please advice what should I do.
FYI: Our kitchen has an open floor plan with the living so whatever remodel I do will directly affect the living too. Please advice what I can do
YoungHouseLove says
We actually offer a design service where we do just that for you, so click on the tab that says “Design Advice” under our blog header to learn more about becoming a client. We’d love to help!
xo,
s
Karen - Wisconsing says
Hey Sherry and John
Thank You. Thank You. Thank You. I have long been contemplating painting my kitchen cabinets but have not had the courage (or the knowledge) to do so until I found your website about 2 weeks ago. I just spent the past 2 weeks painting my cabinets following your advice – sand, oil-based primer and 2 coats of paint. I let them dry for 3-5 days before rehanging. And I can’t tell you how tickled I am with the result. I have had a few comments on how “pottery barn” my kitchen now looks. If it weren’t for you two and this website, I would still be contemplating what to do. So again, Thank You.
YoungHouseLove says
Aw shucks. You’re making us blush. We’re so glad it worked out so well for you! Enjoy your “new” kitchen!
xo,
s
Melissa says
Hi Sherry,
Found your site today while searching “repainting kitchen cabinets” and instantly fell in love. :)
I read through all 10 pages of comments on this article and gleaned some great stuff, but I’m really struggling when applying this to my dated kitchen.
We have cabinets which are a dark wood (taking to Home Depot this weekend to verify), light yellow formica counter top, horrid wallpaper (which will be going by the way side soon enough) and white linoleum w/green and blue accents. The challenge? A white refrigerator, black microwave, black dishwasher and black stove w/white range top.
Can you give any advice on what would cabinet color would work well with this combination of applicances and the difficult countertop? The kitchen is fairly small, so I’m worried the dark chocolate I’d love would be too dark.
I’ve tried to upload a pic to give you an idea of what we’re working with. http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/mugirl213/Photos/143.jpg
Thanks so much for your help!
YoungHouseLove says
Try a medium mocha tone so it bridges the gap between those white and black appliances without being too light or too dark. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Melissa says
Thanks so much Sherry!
Do you happen to have any great color name suggestions that would work well with the appliances and the golden countertops/floor color?
YoungHouseLove says
Try Benjamin Moore’s Ashen Tan 996 or Baja Dunes 997. Or you could go with something slightly warmer like Benjamin Moore’s Oak Ridge 235. Just bring home a bunch of swatches and see what works in your lighting situation with all the existing items in your kitchen. Good luck!
xo,
s
Kara says
Hello! Our cabinets are already painted — the original 1959 wood is painted a cream color. The problem is the finish is flat. Which, as you can imagine, is disastrous in a kitchen. Can’t keep the things clean to save our lives. We plan to repaint all the cabinets semi-gloss in crisp white, but I’m wondering how much work the previous owner got us out of. Do you think we even need to prime since they’re already painted? He did a great job, too, other than picking flat finish.
YoungHouseLove says
We would definitely follow the oil-based primer followed by latex paint steps that are outlined in this post. Paint over paint isn’t a good base at all (especially in a kitchen where there’s grease in the air that makes it even harder for paint to adhere) so the primer is a necessary step for a durable and long lasting result. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Elle S. says
Actually I was going to ask this question. I really want to paint our cabinets white but I’m nervous about how difficult they would be to clean. I’ve been toying with the idea of another color, such as light gray or even soft green. However, these color ideas are scaring my husband. I understand his point though- he is hesitant about the colors in case we re-sell down the road. So, white would be the best color, but again…the cleaning! Any tips?
YoungHouseLove says
If you go with white semi-gloss paint it’s just as easy to wipe down as any other color. Really, it’s a snap to keep them clean (no cleaning products necessary, just a damp sponge or rag). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Elle S. says
Even without poly? Wow, that’s surprising. Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yeah! Poly can cause more issues than it’s worth when it comes to cabinets (yellowing, tackiness, flaking, etc) so we definitely recommend the exact process that we outline in this post (which is how the pros do it too- no poly at all). Hundreds of people (us included) have followed this tutorial to the letter with great long lasting success. Good luck!
xo,
s
Laura says
When you repainted your cabinets before you redid your entire kitchen…what color pain was that?
YoungHouseLove says
Brown Bag by Glidden. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Natalie says
I want to paint the built-in cabinets in my bathroom. They have a shiny veneer finish, so I will take your suggestions and ask someone at the store what primer is best to use. My question is, will paint stand up in a wet and humid bahroom environment? Are there any other steps I should follow to get the cabinets waterproof? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yes, many people paint the shiny vanities and cabinets in their bathroom with success- it’s just about finding the right “foundation” to get the paint to adhere as strongly as possible. Semi-gloss or high gloss paint can hold up to the moisture in a bathroom just beautifully, so it’s really about hunting down the right primer and probably doing some sanding beforehand as well. Here’s how we refinished a veneered piece of furniture: https://www.younghouselove.com/2010/03/nursery-progress-refinishing-a-veneer-dresser/
Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Lizz says
Thank you so much for you steps. I searched many of the TV web sites to get the information you provided, but to no avail. I love the fact that you were straight to the point and answered the questions in a manner a woman would ask or think. Thanks again for the info, I am excited about this kitchen project. Lizz
Albert says
I want to paint my cabinets white but will it match my trims which are dark cherry red?
YoungHouseLove says
If you add cherry wood accents like a fruit bowl and some frames in that finish it’ll look integrated and intentional. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Albert says
I forgot to mention that my cabinets are dark cherry wood also…if i were to paint just the frames or inside the frame white…would that be okay? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Sure, it’s totally personal preference! Just think about it and try to picture it as well as you can until you’re confident enough that you’ll love it and go for it!
xo,
s
Albert says
The cabinets are stained and varnished, do I need to sand it or can I just prime and paint? Thank you so much for your advice, I appreciate it…there isn’t any site that is as helpful as yours.
Albert says
Sorry about the previous post…I must have skipped the paragraph on SANDING…LOL. Thanks again!
Audrey says
Hi Sherry and John! This might be a silly question, but when you say sand the cabinets, do you mean get every bit of the shiny varnish off, or just enough to rough them up so the primer will “stick”? I would love to paint my cabinets (my house is only 4 years old), but the thought of having to sand every bit of the varnish off makes me think twice!
YoungHouseLove says
It’s really up to you how thorough you want to be. If you rough up the varnish with sandpaper it should create a great foundation for primer and paint, so there’s definitely no need to get down to the raw wood or anything. The key is just to be sure it feels nice and textured and rough when you run your hand over every spot- as opposed to slick and glossy. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Noelle says
Love your site and tips- so inspiring… but our cabinets that we inherited are laminate on the sides with “sticker” laminate” backs for our island… I should just send a picture..I do not know if that supplier sells white sticker laminate???
keep helping and inspiring others-
NJ
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Noelle,
Unfortunately we’ve never personally tackled cabinets with sticker laminate (but we’re pretty sure it wouldn’t be possible to paint that stuff). Why not swing by your local home improvement store to see what they recommend and to ask if they have any suggestions for a place that sells white sticker laminate? There’s also always google or even the yellow pages to try to hunt some down. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Lisa says
I just found this site and I’m really excited to see your step-by-step on how to repaint cabinets as I have been wanting to do this since we bought our house. However, we have wood honey oak cabinets and my husband is concerned that the wood grain will show through the paint and look terrible in the light (we get a lot of light in our kitchen). I don’t see this as a problem but do you have any advice/anything I can tell him to convince him that it won’t look terrible?
I’d appreciate the support. Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Nope, primer and paint is 100% matte so nothing will show through. Tons of people have used our tutorial with honey oak cabinets and they’ve looked seamless and lovely. Heck, if our knotty pine knots didn’t show through a bit of oak is no match for primer and paint. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Kristi says
What a great website!!
My house was built in the 80’s so is FULL of oak….oak cabinets, oak trim….oak everything!!! I want to paint my kitchen and bathroom cabinets. Do you think I need to paint all the trim, closet and pantry doors as well? Also, My appliances in my kitchen are almond colored, would it be too much if I went w/ creme colored cabinets but painted my walls a darker color?
YoungHouseLove says
It’s all up to you how far you want to go with the painting. We painted all of our trim, cabinets, and doors (which were oak) a nice crisp white and we love the outcome. But it’s your house and it’s all about personal preference so do what you think you’ll love! As for your almond appliances, they should totally work with cream cabinets and darker walls. Good luck!
xo,
s
Robin says
Hi,
I have a couple of questions about the horrible kitchen we’ve inherited with out house. It’s very spacious but horribly decorated. Currently, there is laminate floors, a mirrored backsplash (!), and high-gloss stained cherry cabinets. We are removing the laminate and laying a square beige ceramic tile. We bought new black appliances but I don’t know what colour to paint our cabinets. We were wondering if we could do a sage green- any Benjamin Moore colour suggestions? Also, is it better to tie in the black from the appliances through the backsplash or countertop or both? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
We would go with a dark countertop (if not black then charcoal or a deep gray would tie in those appliances beautifully). Then you can go with a sage green for the cabinets and a soft cream colored backsplash (to work with those beige floor tiles). As for a color for the cabinets, you DO NOT want anything that will read as too green or too pastelly. You always want to look for a swatch that almost looks entirely beige or entirely gray with hint of green (if you choose a swatch that looks like a true green it’s almost always too much when it’s on the walls or all of the cabinets). We’d suggest Benjamin Moore’s Silver Sage or Morning Dew (which both have a good amount of gray in them to keep things from getting too crazy bright). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Robin says
Thanks so much for your help- I’ll look at those colours tomorrow. What a great website!
Brooke says
Hello!
I have followed your blog for about a year now and have found many inspirational ideas. Thank you both!
My husband and I are considering painting our kitchen cabinets primarily due to budget restraints. We have a 1925 true craftsman home but with a “remodeled” kitchen from the early ’70s. The cabinets were built in by hand and are solid oak; however, they certainly are showing the wear and tear from the past two owners–not to mention the dated hardware and dark varnish. So while we would love to put in a whole new set of cabinetry true to the style of the home, we are thinking of working to bring in more craftsman style through hardware updates, paint color, and period lighting.
We have investigated and think it best to paint the cabinets, remove the current laminate countertops and replace with either chop block (from lumber liquidators) or a higher end laminate, replace hardware, do a subway tile back splash, and remove the linoleum floors to reveal the hardwood underneath. Quite the job for a budget of 2K, but I think we can do it!
Thank you for your inspiration. If/when we complete our project, I will have to send in photos. By the way, any thoughts regarding which countertop material would be best?
Take care!
YoungHouseLove says
Your plan sounds great- and of course we’d love to see before and after pics! As for the countertops, it seems as if you wanted our opinion between chop block (from lumber liquidators) or a higher end laminate and we’re definitely leaning towards the chop block just because it’s so classic and authentic feeling (whereas laminate doesn’t always feel as substantial and classic). Of course it’s a personal preference thing so just go with whatever tickles your fancy. Ikea also sells butcher block counters at amazing prices so that’s another option for you. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
carole says
Just wondered what you might think about my idea to copy your gray on the bottom white on the top kitchen cabinets. I live in an apartment and it is okay to paint them. I will do the countertops black. The laminate flooring is a fake blondish wood. The kitchen is typical galley type apartment kitchen. No window or natural light, so it really needs something to brighten it up.
YoungHouseLove says
Sounds perfect! Good luck!
xo,
s
Suzanne says
Thank you so much for sharing all the photos and ideas…just getting psyched up to sand, prime and paint our kitchen cabinets…big job, but I know it will be well worth it!
Kim says
Hey guys,
This is a pretty dumb question, but I know you didn’t paint the inside of your cabinet doors, but what about the drawers? Did you only paint the front of the drawer? Or did you also paint the sides so when you pull it open you can see the new color? What about the bottom?
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Nope, we didn’t paint the insides of the drawers either. It’s extremely common for drawers to be left with their original wood tone on the inside (our swanky new white KraftMaid drawers are solid wood inside, not painted). Of course it’s all about personal preference so do what makes you happy!
xo,
s
Questioning says
When you lay the cabinet doors down on a tarp or a dropcloth, how do you paint the edges cleanly? And if the brush brushes the tarp and deposits some paint on the tarp and the cabinet at the same time, will that “shared” paint dry and peel off the cabinet edge when I try to pick up the cabinet doors?
YoungHouseLove says
It’s all about thin and even coats. If you slop things on the sides you’ll get drips that connect the tarp to the cabinets which will make for a super messy finish, but if you apply the side coats thinly and evenly (along with the rest of the coats everywhere else) you’ll be just fine. Aim for the thickness of a sheet of paper or an eggshell- slow and steady wins the race!
xo,
s
Cheryl P. says
I love your blog and really value your advice. A while back, you advised me to paint my builder-blah golden oak cabinets a crisp white. I like the idea but am just too afraid of ending up with a boring kitchen. I’m definitely a color girl, and all-white seems overwhelming to me (my appliances are white as well.)
I was wondering if it would look out of place to paint the island cabinets a deep cranberry red (BM Burnt Peanut Red)instead of white like the rest of the cabinets. Or is there a way to incorporate the two-tone (cranberry and white)into all the cabinets (maybe lowers in BPR and uppers in white?) My cabinet hardware is black, and my curtain is a black/white toile and will go with both. My countertops are faux Cherry Blossom marble. We have been in this home for 12 years, and chances are we’ll remain here, so the personalization is not a problem.
Am I just crazy here?
YoungHouseLove says
You’re not crazy at all! We would definitely recommend painting the island cabinets that deep cranberry red color. The depth, interest, and dimension it will add to the space will be awesome!
xo,
s
Ashley says
We recently moved into a ‘new’ old house and have an outdated vanity. We eventually want to re-do the bathroom but not for a while. How can I adapt these steps for painting our old, dingy wood vanity in our bathroom? Thanks and keep up the outstanding work!
YoungHouseLove says
Just check out this tutorial: https://www.younghouselove.com/2009/02/how-to-paint-furniture/
Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Melissa says
hey guys,
Thanks for all your great comments and info in this blog. I’m in the home stretch of my kitchen renovation now and have painted my cabinets a deep chocolate. Yay!
One thing I’m wondering about…as they dry, I notice that the chocolate can get some dusty smudges on it. It seems to wipe off easily with a dry soft cloth, but I’m wondering if should have put some sort of sealant on my cabinets.
Do you recommend anythig like that for non-wood cabinets?
Cheers!
Melissa
YoungHouseLove says
We’d actually recommend keeping them as-is and wiping them with the dry cloth when you see smudges. It’s a lot more foolproof than using some sort of sealant that could cause bubbling, cracking or other marks. Not to mention a lot easier. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Donna Cushman says
Love your site. O.K. I have removed and washed all the doors and lightly sanded. I am ready to apply the primer. My big dilemma is – I live in an apartment (not a lot of space). Any ideas for how (and where) I can lay out all the doors after I finish priming and painting? I’m afraid I’ll have to do about 5-6 doors at a time and at that rate it will take me forever to finish this project!
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Donna,
Hmm, I don’t know what your apartment looks like, but perhaps you can get a few plastic drop cloths from the home improvement store and lay out doors on your kitchen table, on your counters and even on the floor. You can even set up a drop cloth in another room (a living room or bedroom) so you can spread out the doors and systematically paint them all. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Barbara says
Hi you two! Thanks for this extremely useful site. My husband and i are now convinced to move forward with what has recently been just an idea we thought would be too overwhelming to come to fruition. That said, though we’re ready to paint, we have no idea what colour to go for. Our current cabinets are what we believe is a home depot brand, in a darker, mid to rich cherry colour. We’re getting the floors on our entire main level to match our living room floor, which is a dark, almost espresso oak. These two colours do NOT work together from what i can tell – it looks like we are trying to match the colours and failing. Our countertops are formica and we’re not ready to replace them yet ($$ reasons)- they are light brownish taupe with almost a peachy/apricot colour marbled in, along with some white/grey. The backplash is a light creamy taupe ceramic tile (also will replace eventually). I like the colour ideas i’ve seen in magazines lately – like the muted greens and puttys that seem to be gaining popularity. Or, do we just go with plan old white? Will white go with the backsplash? Any suggestions for a good colour white? I’d like to paint the cabinets a colour that I won’t have to change when we have the funds to replace our countertop (i’m thinking in the future we’d go with butcher block). Your comments and suggestions would be appreciated! If helpful, I could take a picture and send it to you.
Barbara
YoungHouseLove says
You definitely can’t go wrong with white (or a soft ivory color) so bring home some swatches in those tones and tape them up and see what you think. You can also grab some muted green and putty paint chips and see which ones work best with the floors/counters/backsplash etc. There will definitely be a few that you can easily eliminate (and you’ll see if white can work with your backsplash) and a few others that you love. We think the putty and muted greens will end up bring your favorite but you really have to see them in the space to decide. Good luck!
xo,
s
Stephanie says
Love your website! I know you often refer to BM Decorator’s White…have you ever had it color matched to Behr or Glidden? If so, did it still turn out ok?
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yeah, it has turned out fine. We’ve also used the basic off-the-shelf white paint in both Behr and Glidden and they’ve been great too. Hope it helps!
Diana says
Hi, guys! I’ve just discovered the site and I feel like I’ve gotten nothing done today, since I’ve been clicking through everything and trying to soak up all the knowledge. You make it look so easy and have definitely given me some courage to try things I might otherwise have shied away from.
(It’s funny, we ALSO repurposed our long living room into a living/dining room and used the original “dining room” for a TV room/den. We haven’t gotten to the point where we bring in the electrician for the pendant light, yet, though.)
My question is about using your tips with a slightly different aesthetic. It’s clear you like your white color palette, and in this post especially it seems like the projects shown boil down to “paint your cabinets white.” Looking at the before pictures (especially the last set) I find myself much more drawn to the warm wood colors on the cabinets than the white redo. I was reading your “discover what you love” post and I look at my house and realize that we like a lot of warmth that you would probably characterize as “too dark” — golden wood (we have a lot of antique furniture), bronze or copper touches, amber lights, brick details. We have a brick and brass fireplace I love, and my office has a gorgeous exposed brick wall. Do you have any examples of redos with warmer or bolder color palettes or — as much as I love your “give it a whirl” approach to DIY — am I asking the wrong folks?
YoungHouseLove says
We are all about living with what you love! So whatever that is we say go for it! You’re well on your way by identifying what you’re drawn to (that’s totally the first step) so just collect some inspiration rooms (photos torn from magazines or collected in a folder on your computer) and analyze how colors, textures and materials are combined so you can mimic the look and refine your own home. And we actually have a pretty good collection of rooms with richer wood, natural stone, etc when it comes to our Reader Redesigns that we love to share. So you can click on the Topics tab up near the search bar and select the Reader Redesign category to browse them. Of course checking out magazine websites (they have great online galleries), google images and even flickr is another way to dig up a slew of ideas.
xo,
s
Diana says
Thank you so much! As soon as I posted that I saw some of the “darker” examples on your blog, as well as the home tour of the woman in Oklahoma with that drool-worthy corrugated metal headboard.
I’m working on my “mood board” and will keep you posted. Congrats on the little one! She’s adorable!
Susan says
Thanks so much for the helpful step by step instructions. What really helps are the dramatic before and after pictures. Did you paint the backside of the cabinet doors and drawers? Also the inside of the frames? Thanks so much.
YoungHouseLove says
Nope, we just painted the fronts of the doors and the frames, but you can scroll up to see how we recommend painting the backs of the doors and the inside of cabinets if you’d like to be a bit more “thorough.” We’ve definitely addressed that a few times! Hope it helps!
xo,
s