Update: We have a much newer cabinet-painting post with more photos, details, and even a video for you here.
If you can paint a wall (and even if you can’t) you can paint your kitchen cabinets. There are just a few tried and true rules when attempting this project, so if you follow the simple steps outlined below it’ll be pretty hard to screw things up. And although you’ve all seen our newly renovated kitchen, we actually painted our previous 50-year-old knotty pine cabinets right after we moved in (to tide us over until we had the funds to replace them altogether). Check out the dark and dingy kitchen that we inherited with the house:
And the refreshing “after” thanks to only a few hours of prepping and painting:
So how did we do it? Easy peasy.
Step 1: Figure out what you want. Bring home paint swatches and select the perfect palette, and if you’re planning to replace your hardware, purchase some before you move on to the next step. Because most old hardware is a different size than newer hardware (the holes are further apart or closer together), it’s important to know if your new door and drawer bling is spaced differently than your current hardware before you begin. Then it’s nice to wash everything down with a little soap and water to cut the grease and the spills that have built up on the doors and drawers over the years. Nothin’ like a little sponge bath to get you in the mood to makeover your kitchen…
Step 2: Take it off, baby. Now it’s time to remove all of your hardware and your hinges (regardless of whether you’ll be reusing it or replacing it- and it helps to store everything in a big ziplock bag so you’re never short a screw). Of course by removing the hinges you’ll be removing all the doors, so finding a place that you can lay out a big fabric or plastic drop cloth (which are about $2 from Home Depot or Lowe’s) is a good idea. Once you have your drop cloth in place, lay out all your cabinet doors and drawers so you can paint them all together in one convenient spot (and have full access to the frames of the cabinets in the kitchen).
Step 3: Fill ‘er up. Then if you’re replacing your hardware with something that won’t fit the existing holes in your doors and drawers, you’ll want to pick up some wood filler (it’s around $6 a tube, which is all ya need) and fill those existing hardware holes in all of the doors and drawers. There are many different colors of wood fill, but since you’re painting your cabinets, matching the tone isn’t really a big deal (although it can’t hurt to grab the one that most closely resembles the color of your current cabinets).
Step 4: Get sandy. The sanding process isn’t always necessary (for example, our cabinets weren’t glossy so we skipped it and went straight to priming) but for some people with super shiny cabinets (aka: lots of polyurethane) it can’t hurt to run an electric sander over everything- or take a bit more time to hand sand things- with fine grit paper to rough everything up for maximum paint stickage. Not sure if yours need to be sanded? If they feel matte like a cutting board (a little absorbent) then they shouldn’t need it, but if they feel shiny like a laminated piece of paper or a glossy credit card then sanding is your best bet. Note: lead paint is a serious health risk when sanding, so if you have an older home with already-painted cabinets that look decades old it’s worth testing for lead with a $6 lead test kit from Home Depot. Safety first!
Step 5: It’s prime time. Due to all the grease and even just the wood stain that often coats kitchen cabinets, it’s über important to get down and dirty with oil-based primer (even if the water-based equivalent claims that it works just as well on cabinet surfaces, we’ve seen stains seep right through that stuff, so oil-based is the better-safe-than-sorry alternative). One coat of primer applied with a decent quality roller should do the trick (then just use a brush to get into those tigher spaces and the grooves in the doors). We prefer wool or polyester rollers (Purdy’s a great brand) over foam ones as we’ve found that they rile up the paint and cause bubbles. Oh and it doesn’t matter if you can still see the wood tone underneath after one coat, the primer’s main job is to make your cabinets sticky and the paint will do the rest. You’ll probably want to snag an extra brush just for priming since they’re usually pretty messed up afterwords (it’s best to toss it or save it for other priming projects and use a pristine new one for painting). And ditto with the roller. We usually don’t even try washing the oil-based paint out of it- and prefer to replace it with a fresh new one before painting for a seamless result (reused rollers and brushes can often compromise the smooth finish that you’re going for when it comes to your cabinets).
Step 6: Get your paint on. You’re in the home stretch, so just two coats of latex paint (in a semi gloss finish for easy wipe-ability) are next on the agenda. You’ll definitely want to wait a few hours after applying primer, but I actually primed and painted my cabinets (two coats!) all in the same day. When it comes to applying the paint, a high quality wool or polyester roller makes for the sleekest application. A mini foam roller can also help since it’s smaller and easy to control. You’ll also probably need to use a brush sparingly, just to get into those little cracks and crevices that your roller can’t reach. Do yourself a favor by buying an angle-tipped brush as opposed to a flat-tipped one- they make staying in the lines a lot easier.
Note: We didn’t prime or paint the inside of the doors, but our approach would be to prime/paint them first and then wait five days and turn them over and prime/paint the outside (that way if anything got a bit imperfect after being flipped face down, it would be on the inside- an therefore less noticeable).
Step 7: Wait for it. After two coats of latex paint you now have to practice patience. Most experts advise waiting at least three days to rehang or begin using your doors and drawers (especially since the rehanging process involves lots of holding and pressing and drilling which can muck up anything that’s not 100% dry). We actually advise waiting five days if ya can (it beats doing the whole thing all over again and guarantees a totally seamless finish even in high humidity).
Step 8: Hang in there. Then all you have to do is rehang your doors (either using your existing hinges or new ones), slip in your drawers, and add your hardware. If the hardware is new, take time to measure twice before you drill to avoid any annoying mistakes that will make you want to putty and repaint, which never looks as good as the flawless finish that you get the first time around. John actually took his sweet time drilling all of our holes for the new hardware (to the tune of about two hours) but it was well worth the assurance that everything was perfectly centered and right where it should be. In this case slow and steady wins the race.
*Oh and it bears noting that if your cabinets are anything but solid wood (laminate, veneered, etc) you should definitely take off a door or a drawer and bring it with you to your local hardware store and ask the paint pro there what they recommend. There are some great oil-based primers and enamel paints out there so it might be possible to get a semi-durable finish (although none as long-lasting as solid wood paint jobs). The key is really roughing up the surface so it’s less glossy and then priming and painting with the best stuff they have (usually oil or enamel based). Oh and don’t forget to let everything dry for a while so things can cure up and get super durable for the long haul.
So that about does it for our cabinet painting and refinishing tutorial. Of course Step 9 is to invite all of your friends over for celebratory margaritas or to do the happy dance every time you walk into your amazing new space. We hope this will help you completely transform your kitch on a dime and in a flash. And just in case you need a few more before & after pictures to convince you, here are two clients of ours that we helped transform their rooms with painted cabinets:
Here’s Kim’s crazy blue kitchen that she inherited with her home:
And here’s her two-tone masterpiece after a quick paint makeover (we suggested slightly different colors for her upper and lower cabinets):
And here’s Carla’s kitchen before she came to us for help:
And here it is after we encouraged her to paint her cabinets a crisp glossy white tone (along with her dining room chairs) while the dining table went black to mimic the backsplash:
Amazing what a little paint can do, eh? And if they can do it you can to! So if you have a spare weekend or even a few week nights you’ll be well on your way to a totally new room. Happy painting…
In need of a furniture painting tutorial? Fret not, we’ve gotcha covered.
Update: We have a much newer cabinet-painting post with more photos, details, and even a video for you here.
Farrah says
I’ve taken lots of advice (and gained courage!) from your site and I’ve appreciated every bit. I am now considering the reddish-wood of my kitchen island as a possibility for a paint job. It’s a newish kitchen and the cabinetry is custom, but I’ve never liked the contrast of that dark wood with the rest of the cabinetry (which is a pretty, natural birch). I’m gearing up to paint the walls of the open concept LR/DR with a lovely grey (Titanium by BM) and the island a bit darker pewter tone – but I still am nervous about the cabinetry for two reasons: 1. my parents gave me a stern warning about how all cabinetry must be sprayed and never hand-painted; and 2. I’m wary of tackling such a new kitchen (seems like blasphemy). But I’ve found your post encouraging as usual! Is it crazy to choose a shade darker than the walls for an island? Too much grey?
YoungHouseLove says
An island that’s a shade (or even two!) darker than the walls sounds delicious! We say go for it. Just be sure to follow these steps carefully and your paint job should last and look great! Using the right materials (like the oil-based primer) and going slowly and applying thin and even coats of paint are key! Good luck!
xo,
s
Courtney says
You guys are so great to interact with your commenters so much! I love your blog!!
All my kitchen cabinet doors have been removed and sanded, and we are just trying to make a decision about the paint. The problem is, I have talked to people at several different paint stores, and they have all told me different things. I am at a loss for what the right thing to do is, and I definitely don’t want to have to do this again any time soon!
The cabinets were painted in the 80’s a cream color with an oil based paint. We have sanded them down to remove all shine, and they are now cream in some places, avocado green in others (the paint that was under the cream), and bare wood in others.
The gentleman at Benjamin Moore told me to never paint latex in the kitchen, the one at Sherwin Williams told me to do the Oil Based primer then latex enamel (or acrylic?) over that, and a paint professional said I should use an alcohol based primer with oil based paint on top.
Is it possible that you can get good results with all of these techniques and I just need to quit asking people and pick one?
And I would love to hear about the durability of your latex paint finish over the oil based primer in your old kitchen.
You guys are great, thanks so much for all the wonderful advice you give on your blog!
YoungHouseLove says
The technique that we have personally used and had immense success with is the one outlined here. There are definitely other ways to “skin a cat” but we go with oil-based primer because it blocks stains and will “neutralize” cabinets painted with an oil-based paint so they can be followed by latex paint again (since oil-based primer works really well with latex primer on top). Oil-based paint takes forever to dry (so you can get dings and dents in the cabinets even after a week of drying time) which is why we personally recommend the exact method outlined above with latex. Latex paints today have enamel additives that make them exceedingly strong (much stronger than oil-based paints were even just a few decades ago) so they hold up. John’s sister painted her cabinets using the method we outlined here and over a decade later they look mint. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
vera says
The problem is, I have talked to people at several different paint stores, and they have all told me different things.
YoungHouseLove says
There’s more than one way to skin a cat! Scroll up for another person with the same issue and our response. We just do what we have known to work (as do many of the readers who come here for advice) and it does the trick! Good luck.
xo,
s
emily says
I am so glad I found your website – I am literally in love with it. We just bought our first house this summer and are now trying to do a bunch to it. I have way more on my home improvement wishlist than we have in the bank so we are really trying to become DIYers to help keep costs down.
The kitchen is number 1 on my DIY list but I am terrified to try in case I end up with a disaster. The main problem is the cabinets. They were installed in 1983 and look it. Dark, ugly wood that completely makes the kitchen uninviting. Painting them seems like a great solution but I’m running into two concerns. When websites explain how to paint cabinets they always discuss just how to do the doors and drawers – how do I do the bases? I have no idea how to remove them and to be honest I think that is way beyond us. So how do I sand them well and paint them well when I can’t take them out of the kitchen???
Second, you seem absolutely brilliant at color schemes – any ideas what to paint cabinets that will lighten it up but isn’t white. The counters, the backsplash and the floor are all white and we don’t have the money to change any of those right now. So I think white cabinets would be too much. There is one wall in the kitchen that is covered in this adorable blue & white gingham with strawberries wallpaper but I’m worried that painting my cabinets blue is too weird. Any thoughts/ideas?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Emily,
You don’t remove the bases! They stay on the walls, but once the doors and drawers are removed they’re just empty frames so you can roll the fronts and side of them (and paint the inside if you’d like, but we personally chose not to go that far since many painted cabinets from the store have wood interiors). As for a not white scheme for your cabinets, a soft celery green would be gorgeous! And it always looks good with blue (or red, or yellow- green goes with practically everything!). Maybe try Benjamin Moore’s Dune Grass? Good luck!
xo,
s
Josette says
You’ve inspired me to re-do my kitchen but I’m on a strict budget. It looks like you changed the linoleum as well, did you do this yourselves?
YoungHouseLove says
Hey Josette,
Yup, that was just vinyl stick tile that we installed. It was easy! Here’s that post: https://www.younghouselove.com/2009/04/its-a-stick-up-er-down/
xo,
s
Alicia says
I found your blog a few months ago, and we are about to move into our first house so lately it’s all I’ve been reading to get ideas! Right now our wood cabinets are painted white. The paint is in pretty good condition (no chipping), but I think I would still like a fresh coat to brighten them up a little. I’m not really up for sanding them down, so my question for you is do I use primer over the existing paint, or should I skip that step and just go straight for the new coat of paint?
YoungHouseLove says
We wouldn’t suggest sanding them if they’re in good condition, but you MUST prime them to get the best adhesion for a long lasting finish. Good luck!
xo,
s
amanda says
I just recently found your website and I AM OBSESSED! Love it-soooo much inspirations and great tips!
I just recently painted my kitchen Pizazz Peach by Sherman Williams and my countertops are almost the exact color of antique white by Sherman Willams-basically an off white cream color. I have the cheap builder’s oak cabinets and would love to paint them a beautiful white. But don’t know how to compliment my counters with the paint choice for the cabinets. Would you just do a briallant white color or a softer muted white to blend in with the counters? Thanks for your tips!!!
YoungHouseLove says
We’d recomend bringing home a bunch of swatches to see which ones look best. Maybe somewhere in the middle? Good luck!!!
xo,
s
Simon Mayport says
Great job, you have given these kitchens a new lease of life! I find that when it comes to repainting kitchen cabinets it is important to take your time and do not skimp on the primer or the quality of the paint, especially if you do not want the end result to let you down.
Katelyn says
Hi Sherry!
I was hoping to get your opinion on updating our kitchen. I am a huge fan of your decorating style! My kitchen is very similar to Carla’s kitchen…same color cabinents and floor. We just moved in, and the house came with brand new appliances-all white. I love how she painted her cabinents white, but I’m afraid with white appliances, it might be too much? The main colors in are house are light blues and greys, with touches of chocolate brown and white. I was hoping to keep the “flow” throughout the house. Any ideas? Thanks! Katelyn
YoungHouseLove says
I love white kitchens with white appliances. It’s not too much, it’s a nice way to help them blend in and not be too “look at me” crazy. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
kid says
Since when is it OK to put a latex paint on top of an oil based primer?
YoungHouseLove says
Forever. It’s the industry standard and we do it all the time! You just can’t put latex paint over oil-based PAINT. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Stephanie Turk says
How much sanding do you actually have to do? My cabinets are kind of pickled white and are quite sticky. Will primer take care of this as well as the grease/oil that has built up?
YoungHouseLove says
Oil-based primer should do the trick, but you might want to roughly sand just a bit or even use a deglosser from the hardware store to be sure. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Debrah Dorrough says
I put on 2 coats of Kilz then 2 coats of Latex paint. The pine knots are beginning to show through. What do I do now?
YoungHouseLove says
The Kilz was probably the water based formula and not the oil based kind. You need the Kilz (or other primer) that specifically says “oil-based stainblocking.” Applying that over the latex paint (just one thorough coat) and then following the rest of the steps of this tutorial should get you back on track. Don’t forget to let things dry between coats. Good luck!
xo,
s
Sarah E. says
So, we’ve just started painting our lovely honey-oak cabinets white. We’ve primed in the inside of the doors and primed the “frames” in the house. I started a coat there and there is a little bit of texture from the roller. Am I doing something wrong or will there be a little bit? I am using a purdy roller with 1/4″ nap (the smallest for the smoothest surfaces). I realized I don’t ever see super close-ups of painted cabinets… so maybe it’s normal?? If not, is there something I could/should be doing different?
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, there’s always a slightly textured look with primer, which is ok- it’s what the paint grabs when it’s applied! As long as it’s not too bumpy and crazy, you don’t need to do a thing (if so, some gentle sanding works!). Good luck!
xo,
s
Sarah E. says
Is there any texture with the paint? Because that’s the coat I started inside and still see a little…
YoungHouseLove says
There shouldn’t be any texture when it’s dry, especially after two coats, but when it’s wet it can look sort of stippled at first. A bit of sanding with high grit paper (200+) between coats can complete smooth it out if it bothers you. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Sarah E. says
thanks!!! I’m thinking the second coat will help a bit too!
YoungHouseLove says
Good luck!
xo,
s
Leah says
Love the blog :) I came across this post and recommended it to my dad because our kitchen is in dyer need of some lovin’ (it’s bad!). He told me that re-finished/painted cabinets chip easily and are poor quality, so the work of refinishing them isn’t worth it. Have you guys found this to be true with the things that you have re-painted? Also, any other tips for an old and dreary kitchen??
Thanks! :)
YoungHouseLove says
If you do them well with the right materials they can last for years, even a decade plus. Nearly every major retailer (Lowe’s/Home Depot/Sears) offers to refinish/repaint your cabinets for you for a pretty penny (up to $10K+!) and they use the same technique and guarantee it for 10 years. You can do it yourself for around $100 and follow these instructions. They’ll definitely last if done properly and given ample drying time. Especially if you use high quality latex paint like Benjamin Moore following your oil based primer and apply it as thinly and evenly as possible. As for other tips, hanging window treatments (roman shades in a cheerful color) and adding other fun accessories like a colorful tea pot and dish towel can work wonders. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Tyler says
We finally got up the courage and pulled the trigger on painting our kitchen cabinets… thanks for the pointers!
Check out our transformation: http://thegreensgazette.blogspot.com/2011/04/extreme-makeover-kitchen-edition.html
YoungHouseLove says
GORGEOUS! Wow.
xo,
s
Janna says
Beautiful transformation!
Erin says
My fiance and I just bought our first home in the West End. The kitchen needs updating badly, so its my first big project. The cabinets are in great condition, just brown. The tile backsplash is white. I replaced the hardware to buy myself some time with ugly cabinets, but I can no longer take it. My only concern is if I paint the cabinets white, then I am going to have to do something about the backsplash since thats also white….Any suggestions without making this a super expensive project?
YoungHouseLove says
There are tons of kitchens with white cabinets and backsplashes! They look great, just add some color with accessories (a fruit bowl, a tea kettle, a dishtowel, an area rug near the sink, cute cafe curtains, etc). You do want the white that you choose to match or complement the backsplash though, so I’d bring home a ton of white swatches and pick the one that is the closest to blending in perfectly with the backsplash when you tape them against it.
xo,
s
Janna says
Thank you for your advice…I cannot wait to paint this yucky old cabinets white and post the photos. This has truly inspired me!!! One question is in taking off the hardware, I was wondering if I should also paint this white? It seems odd to put back up the hardware all old and rusty. Did you do this? Or what do you recommend? If I do want to paint it, will this affect the use-ability when I put it back on? Would i use primer or the paint or both?
Janna
YoungHouseLove says
We actually upgraded our hardware (got some inexpensive nickel stuff in bulk at Home Depot and added that for a fresh look). If you want to update yours without buying something new you can use spray paint (I’d recommend spray primer like Kilz followed by something like high gloss white or even oil-rubbed bronze or hammered pewter if you’d like a metallic look). Good luck!
xo,
s
Molly says
Thanks so much! I followed your instructions and my cabinets look great! It took me FOREVER and I left the doors and drawers in place while painting. Also, I used TSP before sanding, which perhaps was unnecessary. I want to thank you for suggesting the oil based Kilz. I hope that will be the trick to making the paint more durable. When I get the hardware on, I will blog about the cabinets and link to your blogpost! Thanks!
Nichole says
Thanks for the tips! We just installed some new counter tops on our OLD cabinets, and now the cabinets look dingier than ever, so we’re about to freshen up with some paint.
PS: Loving your blog, although this is my first time leaving a comment. I did a whole house re-do similar to some of your projects on the house I owned before getting married, and now my husband and I are in the same boat with our house we own now. You’re giving me lots of ideas and tips! Thanks!
Carolyn says
Great tutorial! I was wondering how you prepped your kitchen for this project? Did you clear out all your dishes first so when painting the outside body of the cabinets you didn’t disrupt anything? I guess it helps you didn’t have to sand much. Pretty sure I’ll be taking an electric sander to my cabinets before starting so am nervous about how invasive this project will be to the flow of the kitchen. I guess if you can get ‘er done quickly, that’s best!
Also, would you still recommend using oil-based primer (this post is from 2008)? I see in your post today you did your paneling with the no-VOC primer. I just bought primer at Home Depot and the guy recommended water-based. Maybe I’ll just have to anticipate doing a few coats.
Can’t wait for the rest of your kitchen (green/yellow walls, wahoo!)
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, everything went out of the cabinets and into other rooms (they looked crazy but it was well worth it in the end). As for an oil-based primer, we have heard of other comparable eco options but haven’t used them yet. But we hope to try something this time with the new house, so stay tuned for details as we get there!
xo,
s
Elyse says
Hello,
I am planning on painting my kitchen cabinets. The frame seems to be real wood with the inside being some sort of panneling (thinner, does not sound the same when I tap them). Will oil based primer and 2 coats of latex do the trick even if they are diffrent woods? Also, what kind of deglosser would you recommend? Thanks! Elyse
YoungHouseLove says
I would bring a door and drawer to a home improvement store (or paint store like Benjamin Moore) to see what they recommend. You might only want to paint the frame and doors if they’re the only solid wood (and leave the interior parts unpainted). As for a deglosser, we haven’t used one so maybe ask what they recommend at the store? Good luck!
xo,
s
gerry says
I can’t believe you painted those beautiful old knotty pine cabinets! Why didn’t you just varnish them and update the rest of the room and kept it “rustic” looking? What a shame!
YoungHouseLove says
It’s totally one of those personal preference things! Knotty pine just wasn’t for us.
xo,
s
myra says
Hi, I am inspired by your kitchen cabinet paint job! One dilemma I have with choosing a color is that the appliances are a cream color. Should I pick a color close in color? Do you think it would look weird to have white cabinets, cream appliances and then a different wall color? The countertops are dark laminate. The wall is currently white but I’m going to repaint (white or other depending on the cabinet color).
Also, how do you feel about using paint with primer included so you only do 2 coats?
Ok, one more question, I promise. I have wood cabinets that are probably cheap ones that aren’t too shiny. Does giving them a once-over with sand paper sufficient or should I use the electric sander?
Thank you so much if you have the time to give some advice!
YoungHouseLove says
I think you’re ok if you give everything a once over with sandpaper to rough things up. As for primer, we like the separate stuff (oil-based) since it’s stronger and more durable. And as for the color, I’d go with a warm white or light cream since white might clash with the cream appliances (or make them feel dirty). Just bring home a ton of swatches and hold them up to the appliances and see which complement and which ones make them look off. Good luck!
xo,
s
myra says
Ok I lied, one more question! Do you think it’s necessary to lightly sand between the two coats of paint?
And I managed to get through a lot of the comments and found my answer to the primer included in the paint.
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
It can’t hurt to lightly sand with high grit paper between coats, but that’s mean to smooth things out (and if you apply thin and even coats with a small foam roller or high quality brush you should be golden without sanding). Good luck!
xo,
s
Lacey says
First I want to say I love your blog! Second I realize this post is years old but we just bought a new house and the cabinets need to be painted badly. 2 questions: 1. Can you see brush strokes in the paint & 2. If we have access to a sprayer do you think that would be better or should we still go with hand painting?
Thanks!!!!
YoungHouseLove says
If you apply thin coats and use a high quality brush you shouldn’t see strokes. And if you do, we recommend a small foam roller (again with thin and even coats) over a sprayer since they can cause drips and inconsistencies unless you’re an expert at them (if you are, feel free to go that route!).
xo,
s
Yvette Toland says
Hi Sherry. I am getting ready to paint our kitchen cabinets and LOVE the pale greenish/grey color that in Kim’s crazy blue kitchen makeover above. Can you tell me what color that is and what brand of paint was used? I understand a lighter shade was used for the top cabinets and a darker version for the bottom ones. I would be so thankful if you could share this information. Thank you so much!!!!
YoungHouseLove says
Here’s the post on that for ya: https://www.younghouselove.com/2008/10/kims-color-conundrum-solved/
xo,
s
Amber says
Hey, really enjoyed reading your advice on painting kitchen cabinets. We have just bought an old house and our kitchen is really dark and old fashioned. I wanted to give it a more spacious look. Definitely will be taking your advice, THANKYOU. Is there a way I post the photo for some specific advice?
YoungHouseLove says
Feel free to share a picture of your space on our Facebook page so others can hopefully weigh in with some suggestions! Good luck!
xo,
s
nicola says
Hi, I don’t know if you’ve already answered this quesion but I’m desperate to paint my outdated cupboards but the problem I have is I have 2 plate racks that are part of my cupboards and I have been able to remove the front but I can’t get to the screws to remove the ‘wooden posts’ that the plates rest on…there is a set of ‘posts’ at the front and another at the back…obviously as it is open I would need to sand down, prime and paint the whole of the inside of the cupboard as well as the cylinder shaped ‘posts’ ..is there any easy way of doing this?
YoungHouseLove says
Maybe give liquid sanding stuff a try on them (just wipe them down with it, at least as much as you can reach) and do your best to apply thin and even coats of primer and paint with a small brush or a short handled one to get into every crack and cranny that you can. Good luck!
xo,
s
Wendi says
At the top of this page is a before and after pic. I’d love to know the new color used, if you know it. Thanks so much!
YoungHouseLove says
The color is Brown Bag by Glidden. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Steph says
Hi guys, ok so a few months ago, we started tackling all of the kitchen cabinets in our new house. (Yes, I said months ago. Between jobs, weddings, our 10 month old, and other projects, we’ve made slow progress.) Anyway, after reading this post, we made a list of supplies we needed and headed to Lowe’s. When we got there, the guy at Lowe’s talked us out of an oil-based primer and said that Zinsser 123 was the best and we should use it. We did. We have about half of the cabinets done (It’s taking forever because we’re painting the insides, too, and those are a different color than the outside of the cabinets, which we’re painting white). The issue we’re having is with the cabinet shelves. We’ve followed the same method as with the cabinet doors (which look great and are wipeable, etc.), but the shelves are sticky. On the first shelf this happened with, I went back to Lowe’s and got oil-based primer. I re-primed and painted some of the shelves… only to have the same sticky problems. The weird thing is that about half of the shelves are fine. (Some that I primed with oil-based and some that I primed with the Zinsser). I cannot figure out why this is happening. I let the cabinets cure for over 5 days… in fact a week, and the tacky ones are still tacky. Is there anyway to salvage the uncooperative shelves? I read something about mixing baby powder and adding it to the paint? I could do that with another coat. Also read something about spreading baby powder on the shelves to reduce stickiness. I’ve been reprimanded many times over from friends and family members who said I should never have painted shelves with semi-gloss latex, but I don’t understand that because I’ve painted other things (furniture, etc.) with it, and it always cures, so long as I’ve properly cleaned, prepped and primed. I want to put this baby to bed and move on to other projects…. can you help??? (sorry this is so long… my marriage depends on a happy answer to this question! :)
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, I would try the baby-powder applied right onto the tacky cabinets thing first. Seems easiest and we’ve heard it works! So sorry you’re having so much trouble- we haven’t run into that issue but wish we could help more! Anyone have advice for Steph? Might just be humidity from all the heat/rain. Or too-thick applications (thin and even with ample curing times between coats, not just after them are key). Good luck!
xo,
s
Jana @ The Summer House says
Okay, so we are ready to take the plunge. We have white appliances and composite countertops that are black with chips of brown and grey. Our flooring is tan painted concrete and we may strip it back to the bare concrete. Walls are light khaki…any thoughts on colors. We were thinking a grey on the bottom and white on the top.
Thinking all white would not be good with such dark counters.
Thanks
Jana
YoungHouseLove says
Ooh, post a pic on our Facebook page so everyone can weigh in! It’s so hard to guess without seeing things. A gray on the bottom and a white on the top sounds gorgeous though!
xo,
s
Kelly says
Hi, I absolutely love love love your website and find amazing ideas on a regular basis… so thank you :)
I’m in love with a painted kitchen you have posted on here, the one with the before and after of blue cabintry painted two different shades of grey (or so I thought). Armed with this look in mind, I went out and purchased the colours said to be used to repaint the cabinets… it turns out that they are more in the beige and brown family of colours… Any tips about what two shades of grey I should use instead?
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, I would just bring home a ton of swatches to see how things read in your room- they seem to look different depending on the light!
xo,
s
Rachel says
I am having a huge paint dilema! Our master bathroom is good size, but has no windows. I painted it a medium gray color (Lowe’s, dry riverbed) and love the color, but feel like I need something to brighten the room now. We are putting up trim over our builder grade mirror, and painting the cabinets, but I am stumped as to what color. Our trim is that barely off white contractor’s color–but yet our sink/countertop are not bright white either. I am worried about trying to match the two since they aren’t QUITE the same shade…I had contemplated doing the mirror trim in white and the cabinet in black, but worry that will be too dark. Any ideas? Should I paint the mirror trim and cabinets the same color as the trim in the room and hope it works? Or is there some other color I should go with!?
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, what about a soft gray on the cabinet and the cabinet trim. I’m a sucker for gray these days. You could also do something like a gray-green tone on the cabinet and a lighter celery tone on the mirror. That would look so layered and pretty. Good luck!
xo,
s
Rachel says
Those are both great ideas–I don’t know why colors are so hard for me! :) I am so unsure of my decisions when it comes to paint. :) THANKS! :)
Sarah says
Hi, Sherry! I love your blog. For sure my favorite DIY blog. I’m getting ready to paint my kitchen cabinets in a couple of weeks during my husbands “vacation” from work. We’re sending the kids away and DIY-ing our little hearts out on our house. Yay! I’m pretty nervous to do my cabinets. The thing I’m MOST worried about is what color to choose. I want a white or similar type cabinet but I’m not sure if it will look okay with our exisiting stuff. Our walls are red, appliances are white, countertops are grey with a hint of blue in them (ugly, but they’re gonna have to stay for now). Our floor is something that we are going to be replacing though. It will be a Dark Walnut color (Allure brand vinyl floor planks from Home Depot). What do you think? I’ll leave a link to see a pic of my kitchen in it’s current state, but remember that the floor will be changed the same week as the cabinets. :) Thanks for any input! Oh, also one more question — do we need to put a coat of any type of sealant over the paint when we’re finished? Thanks again!
http://s268.photobucket.com/albums/jj34/slsf_2008/?action=view¤t=059.jpg
and
http://s268.photobucket.com/albums/jj34/slsf_2008/?action=view¤t=059.jpg#!oZZ1QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs268.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj34%2Fslsf_2008%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3D060.jpg
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yeah- white will look fabulous!! I would go with Benjamin Moore Advance paint from Benjamin Moore in Decorators White in a satin finish. That stuff is amazing and wonderfully self-leveling (we just used it for the cabinets in the office). Of course do the sanding and primer step beforehand, but there’s no need for any sealant or top coat (industry standard is just satin or semi-gloss paint and you’re done, just because sometimes sealers can gum things up and paint these days is made to last for decades). Good luck!
xo,
s
Sarah says
You are amazing! I just wanted to say that I’m super impressed by the fact that you take the time to respond to all the many questions. And as I’ve browsed the comments on this post a LOT, I can say there are a TON of reader questions for you that you’ve responded to. And the fact that you will actually go to links and look at pictures of our kitchens and help us decide a paint color? I’m really blown away by how kind that is. It must take a lot of your time to respond to each and every person (and so quickly, too!) and I just wanted to let you know that I appreciate it so much. For someone who has a hard time figuring out what “goes” with what when it comes to color schemes, you have really made my day. Thanks so much, Sherry!
PS — Sorry for my one last question. Do you know if Home Depot carries the Benjamin Moore brand? Home Depot and Walmart are the easiest access for me (the next nearest city with actual stores is about 45 minutes away).
Again, thanks so much for your awesome blog and your advice; you’re the best! :)
YoungHouseLove says
Aw Sarah, you’re so sweet! As for the Ben Moore brand, it’s usually only carried at Benjamin Moore stores (maybe check out their site and do a store locator thing, there’s one right near our Home Depot and Target so hopefully yours is nearby). If not, going with a high quality paint like Behr at Home Depot could be a good back-up. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Sarah says
Thanks again, Sherry! (Looks like just one store carries Benjamin Moore in my state and it’s 3 hours away. The upside is it’s in the same tiny town as my parents live (random!) and we were planning on taking our kids there while we do our floor and cabinets. Looks like we can drop them off and pick up the Ben Moore paint at the same time! Perfect!)
YoungHouseLove says
That’s awesome! Good luck!
xo,
s
Thera says
I know you don’t want to hear this, but I loved your original heart pine cabinets just as they were before they were painted. Not dark and dingy at all to me (and many other fans midcentury modern design) but warm and rich looking with loads of character. Now the painting of those crazy blue cabinets is another story. What a positive transformation!
Adam says
We want to paint our cabinets a shade of white and then used a glaze over top to darken/antique it some, what shade of glaze should we use? Brown? Black? And any tips to using glaze? I’ve heard it can be pretty difficult. Thanks
YoungHouseLove says
So sorry, we’ve actually never used glaze so I’m afraid we don’t have any good advice for ya. Haha. Although I think we would test out a few different looks on scrap wood or something first (just paint it the base color and maybe use brown glaze on one side and black glaze on the other side? If it’s too expensive to buy them both just buy the one you like more (maybe brown since it seems more antique/warm?) and then test it and if you don’t like it you can still adapt your method or go with black. Good luck!
xo,
s
vicki hodgin says
We were told before painting our kitchen cabinets from a man at Lowe’s to use a water based primer before painting…we did and we have had to put at least 3 coats of paint on the cabinets…we are really disappointed in the looks…where we put the nail filler , we didnt sand around the filler so it looks awful(thats our fault)..we are finding out we do not like to paint…anyway i have a question…since we have already painted the cabinets, where we put the nail filler is showing under the paint, what do we do????
YoungHouseLove says
I would wait for the paint to cure up and dry for a few days. Then I would sand the heck out of those filler hole areas. Then I would use an oil-based primer followed by latex paint (just follow this tutorial from that point on). Good luck!
xo,
s
Timid says
Hi, so I’m one of those people who researches things to death and gets exhausted before even starting a project! I finally primed the base of my cabinets using a brush. I’m going to use a roller for the doors. How concerned should I be about the brush strokes I’m seeing now if I’m painting two coats of paint on top? I think I’ll sand the primer a little bit as well.
Any advice is welcome! Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Primer always looks rough and imperfect so I wouldn’t worry about it. Especially if you’ll sand! I would definitely try to use a small foam roller to apply the paint if you still have brush stroke issues during that step (it’s sort of the error-proof way to apply paint thinly without brush strokes).
xo,
s
Elicia says
I’m helping my son and new daughter in law fix up their kitchen and their cabinets need to be painted badly. I’ve painted kitchen cabinets before using step by step instructions, sanding, wiping down priming and paint and they always get scuffs and the paint easily comes off. Is there a trick to keeping this from happening? Thanks for your help.
YoungHouseLove says
I think the three best tips would be to use high quality paint and primer (Benjamin Moore has some great stuff), make sure the primer is oil-based, and apply it super thinly and evenly (when it goes on thick it chips and flakes more easily). Good luck!
xo,
s
Kristi says
Hi,
Thank you for all the information you provide. I would like to know what color white you used in the before and after pictures above and if oil based primer is still available in California? I was told that we no longer have oil based paints available here. Please advise. Thank you!
YoungHouseLove says
We did use oil-based primer but California no longer sells it so I’d recommend using Kilz Clean Start primer (it’s no-VOC!) followed by Benjamin Moore’s Advance paint (which is low-VOC). You can color match it to Glidden’s Brown Bag for the same color as our cabinets. We used that combination of primer/paint on our office cabinets and loved the look.
xo,
s
Emily says
Hi there, About to take on this project for the cabinets in the laundry room. There are so many whites? I was thinking Semi-gloss white but which white….?
YoungHouseLove says
Benjamin Moore’s Decorators White is our favorite white tone. You can get it in semi gloss of course!
xo,
s
s says
I just painted my kitchen cabinets…using all your helpful advice on here for primer/paint choices, sanding, etc. It’s been just shy of 2 weeks and everything is cracking! It looks like hairline cracks in all the seams, or where one piece of wood is lower than the other. Do you know what happened? Too much paint there, change in humidity, settling?
YoungHouseLove says
Oh no! Were they painted previously and you painted over them? If they were painted with oil-based paint and you didn’t use oil-based primer, putting latex primer/paint on top of them could result in cracking. Otherwise I’m completely stumped as to what it could be! Never had that issue. Maybe take a picture or remove a door and bring it to a paint store (like Benjamin Moore) and ask what they recommend?
xo,
s
mike says
Hi!
I found this site a few months before we purchased a house. We just moved in and have cabinets similar in color and stle to Carla’s. Do you think it’s necessary to sand it down? It’s smooth but I’m not really sure. Also, did you paint the inside of your cabinets? I’m planning on going a dark color so I was wondering if you had any tips on painting the interior of the cabinets. Thanks!
Mike
YoungHouseLove says
We didn’t paint the inside, but you can if you’d like. As for sanding, if you have glossy sealed cabinets it’s recommended. If they’re chalky and not too shiny (aka: not sealed) you can go right to priming. Good luck!
xo,
s
Rebekah says
I read that it can take up to a month to cure the enamel paint and you should wait for each coat to cure before you paint over it. Is this true? We painted our cabinets and now they are sticky and we waited 5 days to hang them up but the paint is already getting chipped off!
YoungHouseLove says
It’s probably one way to go about it, but we didn’t wait that long between coats. We just made sure they were thin and even and completely dry to the touch before moving on. Super thin applications can help things from peeling or flaking. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Alecia says
I know this is a dated post, but we are about to paint our kitchen cabinets and I was wondering if you guys suggest any kind of clear top coat to seal everything and protect the paint finish? We’ve looked into the new Rustoleum Transformations line and it includes a top coat, but I’m thinking we can just do it ourself with paint we choose. What say you?
YoungHouseLove says
The standard method is actually not to use any sealer (if you get your cabinets professionally painted they just use primer + semi gloss or high gloss paint). So although the Rustoleum kit has a top coat, we never use or recommend any top coat since it can yellow or get gummy (which is why the pros steer clear). A high quality primer + paint have tons of durability though!
xo,
s