We did it! We stenciled our bathroom and closet floor and it looks awesome. So worth the effort. And so much better than the carpet that was there before.
Remember when the floor in our closet and vanity area looked like this?
And then we ripped up the carpet to reveal the subfloor and they looked like this?
Well, five hours and $24 later, it looks like this!
Our actual bathroom has tile (where the shower/tub/toilet are), but this is a separate vanity area along with an adjoining closet – which both had old carpet that we couldn’t live with for one more day. So we yanked it up and decided to have some fun with the subfloor until we’re ready for a full scale renovation down the line (eventually we’d love to knock down the wall that divides the vanity from the rest of the bathroom and retile/renovate them so they’re one big spacious bathroom).
We briefly debated peel and stick floor tiles or buying a large seagrass rug and cutting it to lay it wall-to-wall in both spaces for this interim step, but we decided that a stenciled and sealed floor (possibly with a few area rugs) will serve us well in the short term without being a whole lot of money/effort that we’ll later end up undoing.
And since our future tiling plans will require us to rip this stuff up and put backer board in its place anyway (you can’t tile over particle board since it’s not a secure base) there’s no harm in slapping some paint on it in the meantime.
My favorite thing about temporary (and affordable!) afternoon updates like this are that you can have a little fun and do something a little bolder than you might do if you were selecting something more permanent (like tiling a floor that you’ll have to live with for a few decades). Oh and don’t mind that vanity, we’re going to either stain it a deep ebony or charcoal tone or paint it a subdued dark color, so it should fit in a lot better with the rest of the tones in the space.
But let’s rewind a little bit (back to when the floors looked like this) and tell you about the process and some of the things we learned along the way.
To prep our subfloor, which is particle board (a very smooth and almost chalky surface) we used wood filler to make the seams between the different particle boards sheets less obvious. There were only three so it went pretty fast. Once dry, we sanded them down. It wasn’t perfect, but it was better.
Then we primed it all with Aqualock water based primer (it was low-VOC but not no-VOC so John got that step done while I was outside playing with Clara). The purpose of the primer was to help the paint grab on for the long haul and block any stains/bleed-through that might occur from painting over such a porous surface like particle board.
For paint, we grabbed two $12 quarts of semi-gloss paint in the new no-VOC Olympic Icon line, matched to two Benjamin Moore colors: Revere Pewter for our base (same as the wall) and Gargoyle (for the darker stencil pattern). For the last few years we’ve mostly stuck with Benjamin Moore paints, but for temporary upgrades it’s nice to save a little money since we’ll be ripping out this floor in a few years and tiling anyway. We didn’t use an outdoor porch and floor paint (as you usually would in this scenario) because they’re all pretty fumey (usually oil-based) we wanted something no-VOC (this one’s for you, fetus) – but we think the combination of a good primer, some semi-gloss paint, and a nice thick coat of sealer will keep them in good shape for the next few years. We’ll definitely report back with photos over time to share how the floor wears.
With the primer dry, we could apply two coats of the base color. Since this was a no-VOC step, I could cut in while John rolled the rest (we just had to be mindful to paint ourselves out of the space). You can see from the picture below that the color matched Revere Pewter on the floor didn’t really turn out to match the real RP color on the walls as we planned (that’s always the risk that you take when you color match one brand to another), but it was still in the same color family, so we didn’t mind. We’re going for some pretty high contrast interest on the floor, but we thought it would stay sophisticated if we kept the palette sort of subdued (especially with a bold navy-ish tone in the bedroom along with a colorful rug/headboard/pillows/etc) so we were just glad they didn’t clash and still felt like they went together, even if they didn’t match perfectly.
Stenciling the floor is SO MUCH EASIER if you have two people on hand to tag team it. I did the office stencil project alone for the most part, and it took forever and I used a method I’d never use again (more on that in a minute) but this time around we both tackled it and it was a much simpler task. Oh and stenciling a floor is even easier than stenciling a wall since you’re not fighting gravity (a few pieces of painter’s tape hold it in place and then you can roll it without worrying it’ll slip down the wall like it might on a vertical surface).
If you’d like to see the rolling in action – with a few live-action tips in the mix – we made this video while applying another stencil to the wall for a book project back in 2011.
Since you usually want your pattern centered in the room, we started our first stencil to be right in the middle of the vanity. Here you can see what a single repeat of the pattern looks like. It’s the Suzani Silk Road stencil from Royal Design Studios. It’s $49, but we had actually ordered it back in 2011 to use for our book (but that project ended up getting cut), so we just had it sitting under the bed in our guest room for a few years, waiting to be used.
But back to that much easier stenciling method that I mentioned before. We learned back when we were shooting that wall-stenciling project for our book that applying a small amount of paint with a foam roller (not too much, or it’ll get gummy/bleedy) results in just as clean of a line as dabbing everything on by hand, which I did when I stenciled the office, and ended up with claw hands and lost 14 hours of my life. This entire thing only took us 5 hours and was SO MUCH EASIER thanks to a small foam roller with a nice thin application of paint. Hallelujah!
Once again, when using a large stencil like this, it’s so much easier with two people. Each stencil has registration marks around the outside that you line up with the previous stencil so you know where to place it, and if you have someone on hand to help you line up the registration marks and slowly lower it down onto the floor (especially when they’re large) you should have a lot less of an issue with smudging, which can happen if you place it and then slide it around to match the registration marks instead of using four hands to slowly lower it into the right place off the bat (one hand for each corner just seems to work best).
This room’s biggest challenge was that so many walls and corners meant lots of partial stencils, which meant lots of stencil bending (it’s made from flexible plastic that bends, but doesn’t crease, easily) and smooshing the roller into tight spots. We kept some spare cardboard handy (i.e. cereal boxes) to protect the wall from getting paint on it when we had to bend the stencil and it would have rested against the baseboard/wall. Between each placement of the stencil, John also held it up with two fingers with the back facing me and I used a folded paper towel to dab off any excess paint on the back so that the next time we placed it no leftover paint was lingering on the back (this can result in sort of a ghosted double outline, so the quick wipe down between each placement really seems worth the time).
When doing a floor you also have to consider your exit route. In a typical square space this is pretty easy to figure out, but there was no logical way for us to both keep an exit clear and be sure we were keeping our pattern straight/centered (we wanted to start in the middle of the vanity and work out from there, so we couldn’t start in the corner of the closet and stencil our way out because things wouldn’t have been centered on the vanity). For that reason, we decided up front that it would be easiest to paint across two days in smaller installments. We did as much as we could easily access the first day, then let those areas dry so we could stand on them to complete some remaining spots. Picture it sort of like a checkerboard… you can do a row, leave a row clear, and do as much of the other row that attaches to something else you have already done as you can – and then walk out using the clear row. The next day, just go back and fill in those missing areas when the surrounding rows are dry so you can stand on them.
After all of the stenciling was done, I used a small craft brush to get into the spots that needed some filling in. Initially I thought I’d touch up the entire perimeter by hand with paint to make it look flush to the wall (the rolling left about a 1/2″ gap)…
… but after stepping back we realized the small gap was so consistent around the room that it almost looked like an intentional border. So rather than risk making it look worse with my by-hand touch ups, we opted to keep it that way. You can see the slight border around the baseboard in the bottom right of this picture:
As our final sealing step, we plan to use SafeCoat Acrylacq (a non-toxic poly that we have loved since my pregnancy with Clara) to seal it to give it even more added protection. So we hope to get that done and report back on how it goes as well as finishing up a few more things in there.
So far even unsealed it has been holding up well for the last few days, and we’re SO much happier to see it when we walk in there to get dressed than we were to stand on that old carpet. And of course we’re psyched to watch our list dwindle down to just two bullets in here (which means I get to do a budget breakdown soon – yeah boyyyy).
remove the carpetpaint and hang a larger window-like mirror(more on both of those steps here)paint the trimpaint the walls and ceilingreplace all of the outlets/light switches(more on all three of those steps here)stencil the floors- seal the floors and add some better storage solutions to the closet
- paint or stain the vanity, add new hardware to it, and add some built-in shelves to make the empty space under the counter on the right side more functional
Is anyone else stenciling the walls? How about a ceiling or a floor? Or furniture? Do you use a small foam roller or the claw method that I outlined here (for the love of wrist sustainability, USE A ROLLER!).
Psst- Wanna know where we got something in our house? Just click on this button:
Sara S says
Soooo happy to see this. I’m planning on doing the same treatment to our hallway, and this provided just the inspiration I needed! your floor looks so great!
Jessica says
That floors looks so great! It’s definitely a short-term solution that buys you lots and lots of time to get to the big reno since now that floor is so easy on the eyes.
Holly says
I am dy-ing over your stenciled floor!!! Seriously, never change it – haha! Like you, I’m trying to do things in stages for our new house (we moved in August). We definitely have long term plans, so we’re keeping any more permanent changes in mind. But in the meanwhile, while we save the bucks, I’m so excited to do projects like this to personalize our home. Thanks for all the inspiration!
Laura says
I cursed out loud when I saw these pictures. This looks amazing!!! I am seriously plotting where in my house I can stencil. Maybe the laundry room? LOVE LOVE LOVE!! Thanks again for yet another inspiration :-)
Seaweed & Raine says
I really like the idea of stencilling something, but we live in a rental, so that kinda complicates things. Do you have any suggestions for adding details like that, that wouldn’t get me into trouble? ;)
Sheree
YoungHouseLove says
I would look for a two tone rug (maybe check overstock.com) with a pattern like this to get the same look. You can also try carpet tiles like from flor.com. Or you can stencil your curtains or make some stenciled wall art or even a pillow. Hope it helps!
xo
s
Tashi says
Guys! I just stenciled a wall (wich I’m very proud of, by the way) but when I saw your stencil project I wondered: can you reuse a stencil? is it washable? and, if it is, would you use it again? (repeat the design elsewhere)and, can you suggest some diy solution for the glue you used for your wall stencil project (I don’t remember you mentioning using it for the floor too)? I haven’t found anithing simmilar to buy in my home town…
Thanks for sharing this floor project! I might now dive into something of the sort… :)
YoungHouseLove says
Yes, we have had luck reusing them, just try to clean them and store them in the plastic they came in (if you have it) and they should be good to go!
xo
s
Jussi says
Very Nice
Sarah | The Cyclist's Wife says
Wow! It looks SO great!
Samantha says
Wow what a great room! We just recently moved into our new home and this could be a great office look!!! Love all your designs!
Kelli D says
Where did you score the lovely mirror?
YoungHouseLove says
Thanks! It was from HomeGoods and I just painted it white (it was a rustic gold finish when we got it).
xo
s
Melissa says
I love this look. It is so cool. You guys are such an inspiration!
Georgia says
WOWZERS!!!! AMAZING!!!
sarah @makingitmyhome.blogspot.com says
WOW WOW WOW! i never would have thought to stencil the floors like that, but they look great! i would very much consider doing a project like this when we redo the bathroom
jamie says
Wow the floor looks fabulous!! And please know that ever since you posted about it, I can’t stop calling that gray paint color “Reverie Pewter” ;)
Arvinder says
I saw a painted wooden floorboard on the cover of a magazine and saved it – just in case.I am so impressed by your ingenuity, how much you spent, how good your taste is in putting this all together, and how beautifully & professionally you’ve presented this. I can see you flipping real estate better than those reality tv shows. You’ve got a gift! Best wishes for your future & makeovers.
YoungHouseLove says
Aw thanks so much Arvinder. You’re so sweet!
xo
s
Shavonda@AHomeFullOfColor says
Ye ye ye ye ye LIVE ACTION! No? Just me? Sorry, I just couldn’t help slipping a Turtleman-ism in there. Anyway….this looks so awesome guys. I’m about to paint and stencil our linoleum sheet flooring in our mudroom and kitchen and this will def be an awesome guide along the way. As always thanks for sharing.
Chana says
Absolutely LOVE it! Makes me want to add a stencil on our bathroom floor that I just painted (it was super gross coloured linoleum before and since the much more expensive “lets-completely-redo-the-bathroom” project is WAY down the line, I had to make it liveable in the meantime). Just a question, in a very small room (the floor is basically a 5.5×5.5 square) would a small pattern or a big pattern be less busy? I could see it going either way!
YoungHouseLove says
I think you’re right that it could go either way. I’d go with two colors that are closer (not as contrast-y) and it will hopefully be less busy.
xo
s
P Yoshi says
I love the look but-
why don’t you use a paint respirator? Since you guys paint so much?
YoungHouseLove says
We love VOC-free paint so we can go without respirators (we also use no-VOC caulk and non-toxic poly). When I’m pregnant I have this weird “short of breathing” thing, so I can’t don a respirator for very long because it makes me feel like I can’t breathe. So what works for me is to avoid any fumey paint and just stick with the VOC free stuff and open windows and use fans – or just not take the risk around the stinkier stuff (and either wait-list that project or let John tackle it if he’s in the mood).
xo
s
Deana says
Wow, that looks amazing! Very elegant, I don’t know if I’d want to cover that up because it looks so good.
Maria @ Inspiration Affirmation says
This looks so scary to me, but you did a beautiful job! I love the pattern that you chose, and I love how it’s so bold but you kept the color subdued. It looks awesome!
Amie says
I haven’t read through all the comments to see if anyone else has brought this up (sorry, way too many ;) ) But my husband and I are wanting to paint our basement floor. Would this same technique and paints that you used (including the sealer from today’s post) work on concrete? We are very interested in Non-VOC options.
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Yes, that should be great for concrete. You also could use porch & floor paints on concrete, and they have a built-in sealer (we just went the eco route since I’m pregnant).
xo
s
Olivia says
The floor looks fabulous! I have been told that if I were to paint the slab floor, down the road, when I can afford wood floors, there would be quite a large expense in addition to the wood floor because the paint would have to be sanded from the slab in order for the wood to be glued down.
Do you know anything about that?
I want to hold out for wood, but in the meantime, don’t know what to do.
YoungHouseLove says
If you’ve heard that I think it’s probably accurate so I’d proceed with caution. Unless you can install a floating floor (click and lock doesn’t need glue, so it could hopefully float over a painted floor just as well as an unpainted one). Maybe call Lumber Liquidators and ask them? They tend to know their stuff.
xo
s
Kristi Nunes says
I LOVE this! My master bedroom is almost laid out exactly like yours And my husband and I are dealing with the same problem… Ugly carpet, that we don’t have the funds to replace right now. I am completely sold that this is our temporary solution, but my husband is worried that it is going to make the room too cold. Have you noticed this at all since you pulled up your carpet? Thanks so much!
YoungHouseLove says
We have hardwood everywhere upstairs, so we haven’t noticed this being any colder than that. Small area rugs can help if you like something soft underfoot though!
xo
s
niki says
I’ve considered painting the stairs and landing to our master bedroom but wonder if it would hold up on stairs and if it would be slick/slippery. Not our main stairs (which would be much higher trafficked) but still more than a closet area. What are your thoughts?
YoungHouseLove says
I would use a paint made for floors (Behr has one at Home Depot) with its own built-in sealer (so don’t use the sealer we used on top, which isn’t meant for floors, so I’d worry it could be slick on stairs). Good luck!
xo
s
Cynthia says
How long do you have to wait before positioning the stencil over the section you just painted? Seems you’d smudge what you just completed no matter how carefully you lay the stencil down. Also — Did you use semigloss sealer over semigloss paint? Seems it wouldn’t adhere as well as semi over flat. I have my paint, I have my stencil, I’m shaking in my boots.
YoungHouseLove says
Oddly enough you can reposition them right away (although I wipe down the back between each repositioning, so that buys it some time). I have a video that shows how it doesn’t seem to matter when you move it right away for you here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwAbwoA-CGg&feature=youtu.be
As for the sealer, it’s a satin product called Acrylacq and it went on well and has held up really nicely for months.
xo
s
xo
s
Hope says
I’m getting ready to tackle a project like this, and I’m curious if tinting the aqua lock is possible. Do you think it could save a few steps & achieve the same goal? I have 4 kiddos & 2 dogs inside so time is money! Thanks!!
YoungHouseLove says
You mean tinting the sealer? It’s just clear, so you’d need to use floor paint to make the stencil and then go over it with clear sealer (tinted sealer might just make things look cloudy). One way to save a step would be to use porch and floor paint, which comes with a built-in sealer so you don’t need that extra step. Good luck Hope!
xo
s
Amy Hollar says
Love this! I have an office/den area that desperately needs the carpet removed but I can’t commit to or afford the flooring I’d like for it. Do you think this would be a viable option for an office area? Perhaps with a rug added. Love it!
YoungHouseLove says
Yes, I think it would be great in an office with a rug! Good luck!
xo
s
Nicole says
What made you use the aqualock primer? Would the no voc kilz primer you have been using on walls/trim work just as well?
YoungHouseLove says
Yes, we had that on hand and I think it’s before we realized the Kilz stuff was now no-VOC (it used to be low-VOC but they recently changed the formula).
xo
s
Nicole says
Sorry I have one more question. I was looking on Amazon for the safecoat acrylacq that you used as a sealer. It said to get a satin finish you must use two coats of the glossy and one coat of the satin on top of that in order to prevent cloudiness. Is this what you guys did and if not how many coats of the satin did you do? Thanks so much for your help, your floor turned out awesome!
YoungHouseLove says
Weird! We’ve never done that. We just use the satin one and have no issues with doing three thinthinthin coats (applied with a foam roller, super lightly). No cloudiness or anything. Maybe if you go too thick the satin finish makes it look a little frosted? Never even heard that!
xo
s
Becky @ Farmgirl Paints says
That. Is. Incredible. Love how crazy bold it is. Genius idea:-)
Chris says
Is the wall color also semi-gloss?
Every time I see bright white trim and light grey wall I want it, but I always see it on what appear to be smooth walls, and I have this gawd-awful knockdown texture on my walls. I’m afraid I’ll be disappointed if I paint.
YoungHouseLove says
The walls are eggshell. That’s less shiny and will minimize imperfections. Hope it helps!
xo
s
Jennifer Squires Ross says
I’m loving this floor! We’re thinking about doing something similar, how’s it holding up after almost a year?
Rachelle says
Yes, I would love to hear about how these floors are holding up 1 year later!